So what is the best/most common practice on air filter changes. Pre-oiled, not pre-oiled, what type of oil to use? Proper cleaning of the fiilter assembly? This seems to be the main problem with engines getting hurt, just curious what everyone does?

Also what do you use to clean your engine block and components? I have asked before but didn't get an answer, trade secret I guess haha.

Denatured alcohol for the most part JonW

If you wanna get crazy use a heated ultrasonic cleaner and simple green industrial ;)i

Again, after 2 gallons(rule of thumb) or when friction between p/s @tdc is minimal is when tuning characteristics change and you are able run leaner mixtures safely. 270-280 is a bit high but not unheard of with low cooling head design. Engine temps are relative to conditions. I would consider 270-280 the absolute max worst case temp while delivering excellent power and runtime. You also have to consider the accuracy of you temp gun. When I tune I lean to the absolute edge because it makes my engines more linear and easier to drive.

Sheesh, way to fubar my name Neeell lol. Lets not forget the scaring could be from fuel contaminants as well.

Thanks, I have asked before but couldn't get an answer.

I honestly feel bad for your customers..... so far its bad air filters and now its OD plugs aren't strong enough for "my engines" you're something else.... I have a filter here that was ran in a 30 min A main at one of the dustiest tracks in the country and the inner di is SPOTLESS. Lucky 7 had more world champion caliber drivers running our filters this past weekend then you will ever have running a CW engine... no pro in their right mind would ever run your engines. It would be the equivalent of a pro surfer buying his boards in Alaska, it will never happen. bye bye now, im off to do some real world engine testing. have fun hovering over your dyno that isn't even accurate. ;)

You couldn't give me a Lucky7 product to use. I refuse to use a product from someone with your erigance. Weather they are good or not your actions are reason enough for me to spend my money elsewhere.

I am not going to get into a childish trash talking contest with you Joe... we will see in a years time who is standing strong in the engine business and who is skipping town in a blaze of shame... Your engine line isn't even out and all I hear about is you burning bridges, fighting with your tech team, fighting with your drivers, you come online acting like a total dbag thug.... we all know where it goes from here.........Anyways have fun and enjoy it while it lasts.....

if you can't read through this dudes BS, i'm not losing any sleep over you not buying my products. in fact id rather you didn't.

I'm not going to let some engine modder that no one even needs tell everyone his problems are from my air filters. lets be real here,, ive been watching ppl have problems with neals engines for years and kept my mouth shut,, now all of a sudden i have an engine line coming and my "L7 filters are bad" if you can't see what is happening here you're blind. I'm not one to roll over, you pick a fight with me then you better be prepared.

Firstly, Many thanks for a subscriber of this forum for hooking me up with a new P/S for my beloved FMS :)

Question:
Rebuilding the engine and will be breaking it on a stand. I notice that motor has no head shims. I ran it before with OD 30%, but with the new P/S/R, should I add shims ?

Thanks in advance and sorry if its a dumb question..

Man,

You girls just kill me.

Anyway,

The comment was made about broken glo plugs are from tuning bad decisions and nothing else. That caught my eye and made me think for a bit about it. It's a very bold statment, and while possibly based in truth, I'm not sure that one could narrow it down that far 100% of the time. There's plenty of other things that could account for such things. I guess tuning/modding could/would count as well.

As could a bad batch of plugs. It has been known to have happened, even with the best in the biz. Kind of like a bad batch of bearings. It happens. Not too often, but has and does happen.

Anyway, keep the tank full, Rx charged, hammer pinned, and have fun doing what ever it is you choose to do.

+1 not having the head adjusted correct will certainly eat glow plugs. too hi or too low

I do not understand how you are thinking that I am bashing on your filters ? As I didn't say anything at all about your filters...I dont use your filters and nobody local to me uses your filters...so I know nothing at all about them one way or the other.....I couldn't give a squirt of piss about you or your filters to be honest.....Perotto asked me to post some pictures of some scarred crankshafts....which I did...... then when asked my opinion I stated the very obvious fact that foreign matter has gotten into the engine thru the carb, and if the scratches are deep enough to feel with your thumbnail you have a issues that needs to be addressed.. There are many ways for dirt to get past a filter, so the filter material itself is only a part of the situation...The person could have a torn air filter boot, a poor clamping system, torn dust boot .. Body could be compressing on the filter, during a impact filter can be opened up at edges........At the end of the day its up to user themselves to find the source of the dirt.... If scratches are there it means foreign matter has gotten into the engine.......

nowhere in anything I said did I implicate your filters or your company... I made a general statement based on very real and very obvious physical scars on some crankshafts from foreign material getting ingested into the engine.....As a company it is our responsibility to educate consumers in what to look for inside their engines, and educate them on what to do if they do find dirt getting into their engines... scratches on crank means dirt is getting in, there is no other way for that to happen..... how exactly the dirt gets in has to be diagnosed on a individual basis.......

not picking sides here... Frankly you both sounding like idiots no matter who started it..

but maybe he took this as an attack on his product.. at least when i read it i said nice shot.. one for Neal...:lol:

your engine has shims... it's most probably stuck to the button head and because the .3 Nova shims are aluminum it blends in and you know its there..

but trust me... its there.. if it isnt there then you bought the engine used and the person took them out.. you should have .8 clearance, one bronze .2 sandwich between 2 aluminum .3


if none is present get some before you run your engine and 30% is fine..