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Best thing I do is to run it until close to empty. Stop the engine with flywheel and dump remaining fuel in tank. Keep the car in conditioned space, not the hot and humid garage or shed.
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[QUOTE=RCNitro13;13385816]
Originally Posted by FUSIONX AUS/NZ
(Post 13384657)
No problems,
Many people get away without using after run oils if they run the fuel out of the engine and a nice film of oil is left inside.. and they run their engines every week or two but this is not something everyone can abide by as different fuels are better at doing this job than others and different environments play a big part also, So this is something everyone has to figure out for themselves as to what suits their situation After having an engine build up rust and gunk making it run horribly inconsistent, after not even 8L, Im paranoid now. I did run it try and put after run oil. I go to the track a handful of times each year so the engine is idle most of the time. I have swapped fuels so I'll see how I go this time. What is the best way to clean the motor after each race? Im assuming spraying nitro motor cleaner on the internals is OK but is it OK on the bearings? Is the case thingy that holds the bearings in place made from plastic? Will nitro cleaner or other solvent ruin the bearings? If you have enough oil in the engine it cant rust, if it is getting stored for many months put more than four or five drops in... make it more like fifteen If say you only put a few drops down the glow plug hole you will never get enough oil to the bottom end and bearings which is where it is needed. Always put some down the carb and ideally thru the exhaust port with the piston down so the oil goes down the transfer port directly to the bottom end of the engine, unless your taking the back plate off and you can oil the bearing etc directly Make sure you turn the engine over or rock the flywheel and put the engine in different positions to evenly distribute the oil inside Less humid environments as suggested above makes good sense if you can do so, it would be best to seal your engine up also by plugging the exhaust and carb intake Everyone has a different way of oiling and cleaning engines, Im not sure if you want to clean the engine internally after each use?, you should not have to Be sure to re oil the bearings thoroughly if you clean them with a solvent etc otherwise they will rust Dave, FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA |
[QUOTE=FUSIONX AUS/NZ;13386616][QUOTE=RCNitro13;13385816]
If you have enough oil in the engine it cant rust, if it is getting stored for many months put more than four or five drops in... make it more like fifteen If say you only put a few drops down the glow plug hole you will never get enough oil to the bottom end and bearings which is where it is needed. Always put some down the carb and ideally thru the exhaust port with the piston down so the oil goes down the transfer port directly to the bottom end of the engine, unless your taking the back plate off and you can oil the bearing etc directly Make sure you turn the engine over or rock the flywheel and put the engine in different positions to evenly distribute the oil inside Less humid environments as suggested above makes good sense if you can do so, it would be best to seal your engine up also by plugging the exhaust and carb intake Everyone has a different way of oiling and cleaning engines, Im not sure if you want to clean the engine internally after each use?, you should not have to Be sure to re oil the bearings thoroughly if you clean them with a solvent etc otherwise they will rust I was putting 2-3 drops in the glow plug hole and same in the carby while it was open and turning it on the starter box for a few seconds. I'll try your way and put more drops in, I'll also remove the exhaust and air filter and use a cap. |
[QUOTE=RCNitro13;13386656][QUOTE=FUSIONX AUS/NZ;13386616]
Originally Posted by RCNitro13
(Post 13385816)
If you have enough oil in the engine it cant rust, if it is getting stored for many months put more than four or five drops in... make it more like fifteen If say you only put a few drops down the glow plug hole you will never get enough oil to the bottom end and bearings which is where it is needed. Always put some down the carb and ideally thru the exhaust port with the piston down so the oil goes down the transfer port directly to the bottom end of the engine, unless your taking the back plate off and you can oil the bearing etc directly Make sure you turn the engine over or rock the flywheel and put the engine in different positions to evenly distribute the oil inside Less humid environments as suggested above makes good sense if you can do so, it would be best to seal your engine up also by plugging the exhaust and carb intake Everyone has a different way of oiling and cleaning engines, Im not sure if you want to clean the engine internally after each use?, you should not have to Be sure to re oil the bearings thoroughly if you clean them with a solvent etc otherwise they will rust I was putting 2-3 drops in the glow plug hole and same in the carby while it was open and turning it on the starter box for a few seconds. I'll try your way and put more drops in, I'll also remove the exhaust and air filter and use a cap. Good idea, Three drops of oil in the plug hole and down the carb would be struggling to coat even half of the internals if you ask me Run it out of fuel whilst its hot, Keep trying to start to burn last of fuel out Oil engine (lets say 15 drops) seen as your engine sits for such extended periods Turn it over a bit and seal it up and you should be fine If you think it may be too oily to start easily when time comes to fire it up you can take your glow plug out and force some fuel thru the engine as you hit it on the bump starter (throttle applied)which should purge most of the oil out and help with start up... personally i find glow plugs will last longer also if they burn less after run Dave, FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA |
What is the correct glowplug for running in 90 degree weather? I am new nitro. I started with a #6 novarossi, it burned up(probably just worn out). Had to put a #5 in as i was in a bind for the main after the 6 gave out and it ran well for a week before it burned out during the next weeks main( I think pressure line leak). Keep in mind those were probably more like 80 degree temps.
So if I am running in 90 degree weather, should I use a 6 or a 7? P5xlt engine with byrons... |
Originally Posted by Icero
(Post 13388090)
What is the correct glowplug for running in 90 degree weather? I am new nitro. I started with a #6, it burned up(probably just worn out). Had to put a #5 in as i was in a bind for the main after the 6 gave out and it ran well for a week before it burned out during the next weeks main( I think pressure line leak). Keep in mind those were probably more like 80 degree temps.
So if I am running in 90 degree weather, should I use a 6 or a 7? P5xlt engine with byrons... |
Originally Posted by Icero
(Post 13388090)
What is the correct glowplug for running in 90 degree weather? I am new nitro. I started with a #6 novarossi, it burned up(probably just worn out). Had to put a #5 in as i was in a bind for the main after the 6 gave out and it ran well for a week before it burned out during the next weeks main( I think pressure line leak). Keep in mind those were probably more like 80 degree temps.
So if I am running in 90 degree weather, should I use a 6 or a 7? P5xlt engine with byrons... According to Novarossi you should be running a 7, we run the 6 thou in similar and even higher temps in Australia with no problems Basically if the 6's don't seem to be lasting try a 7 and see how that goes https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/70...0/842/syca.png Dave, FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA |
If you have high humidity, you may need to run a 5 and also make sure you are not too lean.
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bonito piston
Got myself a used but it really well looked after condition bonito and upon a strip down before running it just to check the internals I noticed that the piston head has a dome in the middle of it. I'm pretty sure this is purposely engineered from the factory as its perfectly formed but can anyone confirm that the bonito piston is like this? Before i start to freak out that its been used with a piston locking tool or something.
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No idea bout the dome but maybe better performance
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Originally Posted by clarkie_ni
(Post 13390042)
Got myself a used but it really well looked after condition bonito and upon a strip down before running it just to check the internals I noticed that the piston head has a dome in the middle of it. I'm pretty sure this is purposely engineered from the factory as its perfectly formed but can anyone confirm that the bonito piston is like this? Before i start to freak out that its been used with a piston locking tool or something.
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I don't know why nobody here have tried the Piranah fuel, it contains 25% nitro and 12 % oil, way better then byron fuel in my opinion. Developed by pro drivers and formula 1 enginers.
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what is the oil ratio...synthetic to castor? That is the real question. 12% is on the high side for a race fuel for a .21. Most guys that run Byrons run the 9%
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It is 100% syntetic oil and this fuel is very new, i believe it's from UK and it have won a lot of championships. Internationals i dont know!!, but it's said to be as good as the Byron race fuel. Why they use 12% syntetic oil, i have no idea, im have only heard extremly good comments about this race fuel. as far i am conserned this fuel is not well known in the US , but in scandinavia and england this fuel is starting to be the fuel who is most popular. The most shitiest fuel i ever drived is Jero Glo (But that fuel got me into 1/8 nitro car driving. I bought a Inferno mp 7.5 sports and was sold seeing the car in full action even with that fuel, because i didn't know better)then i started up with Model teqnicues race and dynalago fuel and i quite liked it, after a couple of years our own local hobby store change fuel into Rapicon fuel, i ran 25% with 9 % nitro and i think it was ok, not better then or bader then MT, it did its job, after that i tried out some cars of some friends of mine, MFR and Byron and i was impressed over most of what they achieved,run times, speed etc...I mostly drive Nova or RB engines and have a big passion for fast nitro buggies. The Piranha fuel did'nt gave me a waaaa ipression the first time i tried in one of my Nova engines who actually is the most pissed of engine i hav ve beside my Toto Nero Team, but on the 3 tank the fuel started to really improve speed and power after 5 tanks all i have to tell to myself this is the best fueli have ever driven, no problems holding the tune (compared) to other brands even if norway is known to have a lot of low and high terrain, moisture always changing becuseof weather, i have to tell u this couse usually never have problems tuning engines. The Piranaha fuel is sick with that and when it comes to speed, even my Plus.21 4BTT started to act like a sick 7 ports beast. So please you tell me what it is with this fuel that is so good, since u were a litle negative to my"Statement" about this fuel yesterday. BTW do you know about pipes and headers to the Novarossi Bonito 7xlbs how does the 9886 pipe works with a 41021 header when it comes to speed? I am asking you couse i cant reach Huoston at the moment and this is rather importand
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BTW you have check out on the internet about the PIRANHA fuel, maybe you really understand what this fuel is all about :)
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