the only way it would do that is if it was too lean from the pipe change......9886 maybe has less pressure then the 2096 so the needles may have needed to be fattened.....

Also a BXR is shimmed pretty tight...maybe try adding 0.1 mm head shim

hey guys i have anew P5 i just broke in it has about 1/2 gallon or less breakin was great i run it in my losi 2.0 i use a re11 exaust and a stock hot bodies clutch its new plastic shoes no binding new clutch bearings i am wondering in 40-50 degree weather why does it stall the engine seams to only stall after a high speed pass as its falling off the rpms could the clutch be to soft? i run the stock plug c6 should i go hotter? help please ive been doing this awile never seen this?

It happens. I recommend changing the front bearing to a 17011 nova and put a pro-tek ceramic in the rear, and give that engine a bit more break in time. The last one I broke in took a while and did the same thing and went away at about a gallon. That black front bearing only lasted 2 gallons though before it started leaking and getting gritty. at first I thought it was the glowplug but I don't think it is. The only variable I can think of is the black front bearing not sealing worth a darn.

there were a few not so good front bearings that came in the p5xlt engines for a bit , at least 5 that i can think of

all remedied now

novarossi even has a really good lowere level front bearing right now 17004

Monty, do you have the 2013 P5 engines now?

I have a couple here

Is there anyway of telling just by looking at the box the 2013's apart from the rest?

Negative ghostrider

Had me worried for a bit there Monty ran out to check the new bearing bag but got the 17004, also one thing with a ceramic rear bearing do you keep the seal on the bearing on the side that faces the front bearing?
Thanks

When i was talking of the front bearings and 5 i meant there were 5 different front bearing versions until they started putting 17011 in which im not sure how pricing didnt increase , i guess you guys are lucky

Which brand are you refering to ? Tko , i would leave both seals on as they dont seal too well otherwise , 17011 for the win !

For MBX7 users...

When building the clutch, I followed the manual but there was heaps of play on the clutch bell. To get the end play with slight movement, I had to add 7 of the 5x8x.01 shims that came with the kit on the inner bearing and 3 shims on the outer bearing. I did put the 3x8x.05 shim as well.

I've got a Nova 4BTTS, the clutch end play is correct but seems like a lot of shims on the inner bearing.

With my 8ight, I only had to use 1 shim for the inner and 2-3 on the outer bearing.

I guess that's how the Mugen is setup?

Hi guys,

I'm running a toro nero in my mbx7, but it seems the run time is too short at 8 mins, running c6gtc plug(the weather is hot here), so can i run the o'donnell 99T plug? I think it's a cold plug right? Will a colder plug add some run times(i've read somewhere here that it would)?
And one more thing, i'm now using the blue venturi in my carb, what will happen if i take out the venturi and use non at all? Am i right that i'll lose a bit of low end power? And will it also help with run times?

Sorry for so many questions, thanks a lot in advance for any advice i can get, cheers...

Richen hsn three hours and work on leaning lsn and idle


Mugen clutch guy , whatever you have to do is what you have to do , however many shims is however many shims , all is good

Mugen clutch, do you use the washer between the flywheelcone and front brearing If not you need to use a lot of shims, its normal.

How will the 2096 pipe and 41021 manifold work on a p5? My last race I was using a 9901 pipe and 41021 manifold but it seemed like it just didnt have a whole lot of bottom or top end