This is an on-road motor.

There IS an onroad Vorlksmotor too, but the newer cheaper one is a buggy engine..

http://www.hoeco.at/index1.htm

Scroll down to see both in chronological order.

I stand corrected, after doing more digging I found out that this is indeed an off road motor.

Yes, the one that I got is the 4-port off road buggy version, not the 9-port on-road engine.....;)

30% Nitro Content Ok?
 

Everyone,
Is it ok to run 30% Nitro on the following engine? (Plus 21-5K-Standard Button)

The shims current on the engine are:

.30mm (Silver)
.10mm (Copper)
.30mm (Silver)

Thanks!

Pressure line length?
 

Quick question about what is a good length for the pressure line from tank to pipe? I have switched to a pipe which has the nipple faced towards the back of car and I had to change fuel line path so I was just curious whats a optimal length or should it be just short as you can run it. Thanks!

I run about 8" of pressure line on my btt 9901 combo

Think I have a bad bearing...
 

Ok,

2.5 Gallons into my Plus4C been running great but tonight the weather changed a ton but I am concerned I have a front bearing issues... I have Tons and I mean tons of Oil/Dirt buildup on the front of my engine around the front bearing... Not just a little weaping from running rich... it also started flaming out tonight...

Bad front bearing seal?

Let me know your thoughts?

Thanks

Hmm
 

I say take the engine out of the car, remove the flywheel, clean the engine really well on the outside, then take the engine apart and clean the inside,

then, gently remove the front seal with a dull xacto. then check the inside seal is still in place. and remove it and inspect the bearing. Is it sloppy, or gritty after cleaning? If it's ok, simply oil it, reinstall the two shields carefully and go run it. I have not seen a problem with that bearing, but It certainly can happen. If it flamed it's most likely too fat on the bottom, and this can cause flaming and gooey front bearings. That bearing seals better than any other one i have seen, but it can leak if the seals are not seated properly, especially the inside one.

When a bearing leaks it usually breaths inwards, not leaks outwards...weeping fuel is of no concern, that the engine likely ingested dirt thru the front bearing is a much larger concern...do a test...fire the engine up, and while it is idling spray behind the flywheel with a shot of nitro spray...if the engine stalls then you know your engine is breathing thru the bearing...this can be a huge issue if you run on a dirty dusty track, as the engine will breath in whatever unfiltered air there is...usually causing flameouts and premature engine wear....ever wonder how guys can wear out a engine in under a gallon ? ingesting dirt thru the bearing will cause engines to wear extremely fast....what is even worse is that any dirt particles brought in thru the front bearing will get ground up extremely fine, which means it passes thru the engine without any of the telltale signs of ingesting dirt...the dirt gets ground soo fine in the bearing that it acts much like a lapping compound......it leaves no scratches or heavy wear marks, it just wears the engine out..... the silent killer of nitro engines..... if you run in dirty dusty conditions you need to make sure your engine is not breathing thru the front bearing...the brake cleaner test is a easy way to test this.... I think many people will be surprised by what they find when they do this test....

I read this a few pages back and am concerned...
 

Neil.... I think you may be spot on with this issue... Honeslty it has had a ton of oil build up since new but I was told that it was mostly due to running rich during break-in and such... But we are leaned out pretty good and engine running strong... but I am concerned that is the issue... I will do your test and post results...

Just spray while at idle behind flywheel into bearing area?

I tried this test on an engine that i suspected of having a bad front bearing, stopped it dead in its tracks. I tried it again after replacing the front bearing with a new TKO ceramic. Stopped it dead in it tracks again. Kinda feel like this test is bogus to an extent

its the fuels...some fuels are too thin to create a proper seal in the engine.......Novarossi recommends 12% castor oil for a very good reason.......some fuels can actually make the proper seal, others will not.... fuels with thin synthetic oils struggle more with creating a seal then fuels that use castor oil

Novarossi engines have a larger diameter vacuum return port drilled into the case...I believe this port is there to return excess fuel and oil that accumulates behind the front bearing to prevent leaks...However if the fuel is too thin this return port will vacuum the oil seal ring dry....allowing the engine to breath thru the front bearing

here is the vacuum port

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/IMG_2447.jpg

and here is what can happen if running on a dirty dusty track

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...nsbearing2.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...ndbearing1.jpg

And as I say the problem is deeper then the front bearing, as these bearings do not create a seal, these engines rely on fuel/oil film along the crank to create a hydraulic seal....if the fuel is too thin it will not seal and the engine will breath thru the bearing.......

I am interested to see some people do this test, report back their findings and what fuels they are using.......

I had the exact same problem with my plus 4c team motor, flaming out. took the clutch off and the front seal was completely covered in dirt. I replaced the front and rear bearing and engine is running great. no more flame outs. The front and rear bearing was rough when I pulled them out. Houston mentioned that novi may have put different bearings in the motors and I believe they are not as good.

1airborne

Monty, Neal or anybody. Need a sanity check on something.

I ran my Bonito on my RC8T today. I have the HSN flush, LSN 1/2 turn in from flush, running Byron's 30%, checked my tank and fuel lines (under water) for leaks, I have a zip tie on the carb boot, C6TGC new plug, clean air filter all secured with zip ties, clutch good, use a CompetitionHeat to warm the engine, everything tight.
I set the idle and the low speed on the starter box. The engine clears out good and the idle doesn't drop like when its too rich (two stage idle). I run it on the track and run about half a tank and the idle is just way higher when I get off the throttle, like after the long straight. The engine isn't terribly hot, when I checked it was 240 with still good smoke. :flaming:

My questions are, is it too lean on the bottom? It seems if I richen the bottom, I have to raise the idle to keep it from stalling and it ends up having the "two stage idle" and everyone says when that happens the LSN is too rich. Just need some advice, thanks in advance.