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Old 03-14-2012 | 10:05 AM
  #2311  
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collets are matches to the clutch (flywheel)- not the engine... as all crankshaft diameters are the same
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Old 03-14-2012 | 10:06 AM
  #2312  
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Originally Posted by p@p@nut
A little help here. I got a brand new nova plus 21-4T. The thing is, the engine comes with its own tapered collet. Should i use the nova one or remove it and use the one provided with the car kit plus the shim?
Depends on the vehicle in question and also the clutch system , let us know those two things and we will be able to help you better
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Old 03-14-2012 | 10:37 AM
  #2313  
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An MP9. The mp9 and the nova collet are identical. Just needed to put a shim before the collet as per the mp9 manual.
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Old 03-14-2012 | 11:25 AM
  #2314  
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Originally Posted by p@p@nut
An MP9. The mp9 and the nova collet are identical. Just needed to put a shim before the collet as per the mp9 manual.
You got it
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Old 03-15-2012 | 06:21 AM
  #2315  
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Hi Houston,

Some questions on the BTTS.

We bought 3 pcs of BTTS from you somewhere this time last year.

1) I broke in the engine using heat cycle method, with OS P3 plug. The whole process turned out well except the tightness.

2) Tuned the engine, went for race, using werks 4 pcs clutch. All good.

3) 2nd race, problem arised, tuning went haywire, idling went up high when coming in for pit. No power when moving off and power suddenly kicked in after 2-3 seconds. Temp was arounf 140 to 150 degree. when tried to lean down the top, it lost the top end and when tried to rich out the bottom, no pick up and clogged. Whatever methods we tried didnt seem to be right.

4) Shelf the mill for few months, one of the local top racer told me, cant run OS on Nova, either Nova plug or O Donnel.

5) So switched to O Donnell as I got some on hand.

6) Went for another tuning session last Sat. Immediately all went smooth, idling was stable and the power resumed. Completed 2 tanks without any complain. Cool the engine down and decided to try again

7) Nightmare was back. Engine started, throttle car didnt move except RPM kept going up and car stayed put. It came to a certain RPM when it stayed and the car still stationery. Sound like low end was rich.
And we had to retune all over again.

8) Any advise.
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Old 03-15-2012 | 07:23 AM
  #2316  
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao
Hi Houston,

Some questions on the BTTS.

We bought 3 pcs of BTTS from you somewhere this time last year.

1) I broke in the engine using heat cycle method, with OS P3 plug. The whole process turned out well except the tightness.

2) Tuned the engine, went for race, using werks 4 pcs clutch. All good.

3) 2nd race, problem arised, tuning went haywire, idling went up high when coming in for pit. No power when moving off and power suddenly kicked in after 2-3 seconds. Temp was arounf 140 to 150 degree. when tried to lean down the top, it lost the top end and when tried to rich out the bottom, no pick up and clogged. Whatever methods we tried didnt seem to be right.

4) Shelf the mill for few months, one of the local top racer told me, cant run OS on Nova, either Nova plug or O Donnel.

5) So switched to O Donnell as I got some on hand.

6) Went for another tuning session last Sat. Immediately all went smooth, idling was stable and the power resumed. Completed 2 tanks without any complain. Cool the engine down and decided to try again

7) Nightmare was back. Engine started, throttle car didnt move except RPM kept going up and car stayed put. It came to a certain RPM when it stayed and the car still stationery. Sound like low end was rich.
And we had to retune all over again.

8) Any advise.
Why are you running an OS p3?
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Old 03-15-2012 | 07:50 AM
  #2317  
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao
Hi Houston,

Some questions on the BTTS.

We bought 3 pcs of BTTS from you somewhere this time last year.

1) I broke in the engine using heat cycle method, with OS P3 plug. The whole process turned out well except the tightness.

2) Tuned the engine, went for race, using werks 4 pcs clutch. All good.

3) 2nd race, problem arised, tuning went haywire, idling went up high when coming in for pit. No power when moving off and power suddenly kicked in after 2-3 seconds. Temp was arounf 140 to 150 degree. when tried to lean down the top, it lost the top end and when tried to rich out the bottom, no pick up and clogged. Whatever methods we tried didnt seem to be right.

4) Shelf the mill for few months, one of the local top racer told me, cant run OS on Nova, either Nova plug or O Donnel.

5) So switched to O Donnell as I got some on hand.

6) Went for another tuning session last Sat. Immediately all went smooth, idling was stable and the power resumed. Completed 2 tanks without any complain. Cool the engine down and decided to try again

7) Nightmare was back. Engine started, throttle car didnt move except RPM kept going up and car stayed put. It came to a certain RPM when it stayed and the car still stationery. Sound like low end was rich.
And we had to retune all over again.

8) Any advise.
140°-150° ? Thats a bit cold there turbo

Os plugs will deform novarossi head buttons , when you switch to another brand pf plug
It will not seal properly
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Old 03-15-2012 | 08:40 AM
  #2318  
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Originally Posted by houston
140°-150° ? Thats a bit cold there turbo

Os plugs will deform novarossi head buttons , when you switch to another brand pf plug
It will not seal properly
140 to 150 degree is too cold ? That is almost 284f to 302f, is that cold ?

So you are suggesting to change the button head ?
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Old 03-15-2012 | 09:49 AM
  #2319  
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Originally Posted by houston
That dyn053mr will be good for what you got going on

M2c clutch system should be great on that setup also , the guys who run Neals engines shoul4 be able to give you some great clutch tuning advice on that clutch system
I got the Buku coming. Thanks!
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Old 03-15-2012 | 11:25 AM
  #2320  
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao
140 to 150 degree is too cold ? That is almost 284f to 302f, is that cold ?

So you are suggesting to change the button head ?
since it seems your 140 to 150 is celcius, you are way to hot and probably lean bogging comming off the bottom end. Sounds like the needles are way out of balance. I would go back to factory and then retune. What pipe and header are you using? How is the clutch? Tank have a air leak below half tank? How are the fuel and pressure lines? Any filters or coolers in place?

Yes you should replace the head button if you want to use a nova or OD plug.
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Old 03-15-2012 | 11:48 AM
  #2321  
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Default NOVA Glow Plug's

Guys,
need some help....can anyone tell me what is the difference of "Novarossi "Turbo" #6 Long Body Ultra Glow Plug (Medium)[NVRC6TGC]" and "Novarossi "Turbo" Conical #6 Ultra Glow Plug (Hot)[NVRC6TGH]" coz for the past few years our RC shop keep on having the "C6TGF" glow plugs which i presume is used for onroad engines and during those few years we keep on having problematic and erratic running Nova's..which they end up by stop selling these Nova's saying that Nova's Ain't good..but till the day i ended myself with a "bonito" and showed them Nova's are great..and i have my old "Toro Nero" that is still running without giving any problems..haha that shut their big fat mouth of looking down at one of the best engine...

but then again i'm quite confused with the glow plug line where i did got the "TGF" plugs in the engine and having funny flame outs on the engine..i need answers coz where i'm staying is always quite hard to get the right stuff for these engines...due to lack of demand..so they only stock up once the a big demand..

one word..i just love my Bonito.. and i'll have another 3 to DHL in in the next couple of days..But glow plug wise..forgot to put the order..
just need some clarification so i can drop a big amount of order for my little RC warehouse..
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Old 03-15-2012 | 01:50 PM
  #2322  
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao
140 to 150 degree is too cold ? That is almost 284f to 302f, is that cold ?

So you are suggesting to change the button head ?
You didnt post that it was celcius excuse me

Yes on the head button
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Old 03-15-2012 | 01:53 PM
  #2323  
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What is the main difference and feel of a plus-4btts compared to the c team motor?
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Old 03-15-2012 | 05:33 PM
  #2324  
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Originally Posted by mjealey
What is the main difference and feel of a plus-4btts compared to the c team motor?
My understanding is that the C has a little more bottom end and less top then the btt. The btt is smooth with good top end with better gas mileage. Monty is better to answer that question, but that is my understanding
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Old 03-15-2012 | 05:39 PM
  #2325  
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^ other than some *minor* touches; that pretty much covers it.
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