Yes - .5mm or close to it is what you want for an idle gap on a motor that's run-in and being tuned for performance.

Set this gap with both needles set to flush initially, then bring the idle to the level you require by "leaning the bottom end needle only". Don't adjust the idle screw.

This will remove the chance of you ending up with the most common tuning fault out there - a large idle air gap and excessively rich bottom end.

From here tune in the top end, then revisit the bottom end to settle idle speed back down again.
This method should provide a good tune and stable idle.

NB: The 1.5mm gap refers to engine run in when you are running a very rich bottom end on initial tanks. The engine wouldn't idle while this rich without a bigger idle air gap to create a usable air / fuel ratio.

Now that I finally got caught up on things I'm going to be dedicating more time to focusing on forum stuff again and figured that a good way to start off would be by taking a second to congratulate Ian Halley on his 2nd place finish in Truggy at tha Australian NSW Championships running our B5-Pro w/ 2058 in his Mugen!

Race report can be foud here:

http://www.neobuggy.net/2016/03/21/2...rt/#more-72705

Anything new in the works for Werks?

Check out the thread on here - New B7 Kortz Edition .21

How much low end does the 2058 take away on this engine vs the 2013 ? Anyone run the 2058 and b5 in truggy ? How do you like It ?

Very very little Josh. The 2058 is an awesome pipe thru the whole range. While yes, it doesn't have the almost instant torque the 2013 has, it more than makes up for it in midrange and top end performance. Not to mention smoothness and fuel economy. Loved the 2013....then got a 2058 and never looked back!


I got an extra 2013 if you want to compare them for yourself. Let me know.

I am racing in France with Werks engines on my Mugen buggy since 4 years (2B5 and 1 B6) and I never had any issue with these engines.
During the last race, my B5 flamed out severals times without any apparent reason. After the race, at home, I have disassembled the engine and I saw a kind of crack in the crankcase. This crack is visible outside and inside just under the machined engine support. I can see traces of oil that seep outside the crankcase at this level.

The engine has only 2 gallons what could I do?
I would also like to know what could be the origin of this crack?

Attachment 1374602

Post a picture showing the front side/crank side of that mount. Does the crack go all the way up the side?

If it is indeed cracked my guess is from a hard crash, any big bends in the heat sink? A hard enough hit on the top of the heat sink could cause something like this.

Hi, sorry to hear about the issue that you experienced. I can tell you first hand that this is something that rarely if ever is experienced with our engines. The way that our cases are made is that we use a process called powered metal injection moulding where start off with a fine metal powder which is then forced into an 8 cavity steel mold by a hydraulic ram under something like 50 tons of pressure which causes the metal powder to turn into a liquid. After the injection molding process it goes through a heat treating process and then finish machining via CNC. A neat little video of how the entire process works can be found here:

+ YouTube Video

The reason that I went into detail above is simply to show you how it is done and to point out that because of the amount of pressure that the metal is being forced into the mold under it ensures a uniform denisty and makes it impossible for there to be any voids or weak spots in the case. So the crack that you experienced is not because of any faults in the manufacturing or design process. What happened in your case is 1 of 2 things both of which I have not seen since probably 2007!

1st) We experienced this with one of our team drivers. I will not mention the brand of car that he ran for but he was running one of their optional one piece engine mounts on his car at a race. In practice he had engine issues we look over everything and notice that he has a cracked case in exactly the same spot as in your picutre. So we install a new engine, everything runs fine go through the first qualifier and the engine is running wierd again. Check things and notice that the case is again cracked in exactly the same spot. Once is a fluke, twice is a problem but we can not see anything that looks wrong so we install another new engine and the next qualifier the exact same thing happens! So now I know something is up so I now go over the car in detail and really check things out. Still not seeing anything wrong by eye I get my calipers out and start measuring things and come to find out that the nifty optional high dollar one piece engine mount was .75mm higher on one side than it was on the other side! So it was not machined properly and when you tighten down the engine it tweaked the case putting a load on the engine mounts and after a couple of hard landings during a lap the amount of force on the engine mounts casued the case the crack. Needless to say that one piece motor mount was not only expensive to buy but it ended up ruining close to $1k in engines!

Now the 2nd cause that I have seen for cracks like that is lawn darting the car. Basically if you are not familiar with this term it when you see a car going off a jump and not correcting the angle of the vehicle in the air so that it lands almost vertically (straight up and down) on the front bumper or nose of the car. That type of impact can potentially cause the chassis to flex considerably again stressing the engine mount tabs. Those are the only 2 ways that I have ever seen the issue in your image.

Now having a background in 1/8th on-road I can tell you that it is also not too uncommon to see 2 piece engine mounts being slightly off. In those type of cars set up is so exact that it can tweak the chassis causing handling issues. So rule of thumb for me was that I bought a set of engine mounts per engine and they stayed with the engine once installed. The process that I used is I would install the motor mounts on the engine and then take a black sharpie and mark the entire bottom of the 2 engine mounts. Then I would put a piece of fine grit sand paper on a piece of glass and place the engine with mounts installed on top of that. Then making sure to keep the engine square I would move it around gently in circles sanding the bottom of the engine mounts. Do that for a few seconds and then look at the bottom of the mounts and do not be surprised if half of one side is still black and the other side is showing bare metal, meaning the mount is uneven! Basically though you want to keep on sanding like that until all of the black is gone which means that your mounts are now 100% square. Again just a little trick I picked up being pretty annal about the cars I build :nod:

Back to your issue though which as you mentioned popped up after aroudn 2 gallons through the engine I'm going to guess that it was probably caused by several hard frontal impacts over time i.e. lawn darting the car going over a jump a couple of times. Unfortunately when that happens the only "fix" is to replace the case either with a new one or one from a used engin that you amy have laying around. Hope that helps explain things a little!

Hello Ron,

As usual, second to none customer service. Can't be beat!!!!!!

Thanks for taking the time to explain things, and answering emails.

Not a problem! Looking over my post though it appears that I would be well served using spell check in the future lol. Trying to type up posts, talking on the phone and doing e-mails on another computer all at the same time certainly is not helping my spelling :D

Am i right in assuming that the idle gap measurement is with the carb insert removed?

Yes, always check it with the insert out

:nod::nod:Thanks!:)

Thank you.;)