I will ABSOLUTELY try this next time. I get the idea and it will be easy and quick.
The other day I also learned that you should NOT clean the piston and sleeve from carbon build up since that helps sealing the piston to the sleeve.
"If you listen, you'll learn"

Hi guys,
I'm from Barbados and I have a Werks B5 Pro in my kyosho st-rr evo and I must say its an awesome engine, I have roughly about 3 1/2 gallons on the engine and I have found recently that the ceramic crankshaft bearing is starting to get noisey when I'm running the engine, I took the engine apart recently and it even feels a bit rough when I took it out and spun the bearing. Is this normal at this amount of fuel? Also I'm using the 2013 Werks pipe on it and I have found some cracks around the tip, how badly could these cracks affect my tune?

No that's very unusual for the ceramic bearings, they normally easily last the life of the engine. Most likely cause is dirt ingestion, to check that just pull the crankshaft and take a look for scratches around the crank on the area opposite of the intake port (so directly under where the carburetor sits. If you see a frosted look or notice scratches or grooves there then you have dust and dirt making it past your filter and getting into the engine. Other common causes are glow plugs failing and the element falling into the engine getting wedged into the rear bearing which can cause a ball to chip or skid on the race or simply running the engine too lean, so lack of lubrication. In regards to the pipe questions can you give me some more detail on these cracks around the tip? The tip to me means the stinger and that is a solid tube which I have never seen crack??

+ 1 on the Swiss ceramics that come standard in the Pro Series engines.
We have run various ceramics in the engines we have sold over the years, but these Werks ones are the longest lasting main bearings we have seen to date.
Customers are getting gallon after gallon of racing with zero issues out of these.
What fuel are you running ?
Fuel with a low quality, low flash point oil package can have a drastic effect on bearing and engine life in general.
Pull the bearing and check it under a magnifying glass for chips or flat spots as Ron has eluded too.
Keen to hear what you find.

Hi guys thanks for the responses, I will take the engine apart tonight again and have a look at the crankshaft and see if I see any marks, as for the pipe yes I meant to say stinger instead of the tip, it has cracked right at the base of the stinger, from an impact or two i am guessing, I am using VP 30% and I never suspected that I have tuned to lean, the plug never looked distorted or white and there always seemed to be a good smoke trail coming from the exhaust, but in saying that I am no expert so I would never just blame it on the engine, and to be honest the last couple times I drove it I believe my time maybe off a bit now because as the engine warms up it sounds almost a little sluggish when I give it full throttle, it dosent cut out, it just dosent have the punch from a standing start that it had before.

If your engine temp is still in the normal range and you are seeing that then you may be rich on the bottom and lean on the top. First fix the rear bearing (so that your engine is operating normally) and then take a look at tune. In regards to the stinger, if you are seeing cracks from impacts etc. as long as it is not bent or blocked it shold not make a difference in performance.

Ok I will try that, I may probably set all my needles flush and get a good idle gap and go from there, thanks a lot for the advice it's greatly appreciated.

Not a problem, any time that you need any help or have a question just let us know!

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Hi guys I took the engine apart again to have a look at the crank shaft, I believe some dirt got in the engine, I attached a Picture so you could see, hopefully i attached it correctly. Also took a picture of the bearing inside the housing. Hopefully these pics can shed some light on the bearing being noisy.

Thanks.

Yeah, looks like you may have ingested some sort of something other than air/fuel...Ive had a couple do that.

Either from the front bearing, bad seal on the filter boot or just a dirty air filter....

If the bearings are still buttery smooth, you should be ok. I say should, but any bit of notchyness, I would replace them. Would suck to get it all back together and have a bearing failure destroy the motor. Possibly replace the front just cause you are there and not 100% sure what happened. Also flush out the motor with some fuel to make sure its nice and clean inside as well prior to sealing it up.
After that, I would inspect the air filter boot and make sure there is not a rip in it. If its good, clean it out with some motor spray and get a couple new filters. Make sure when you install them, they are seated correctly and completely oiled in every spot.
When you install the boot and secure it, make sure its tight. Don't get too gorilla on it but very snug. Too tight and it can distort and not seal well.

Good luck

Thanks man I will definitely go through everything with a fine tooth comb and change out the bearing asap, really love this motor so I didn't want to wreck it.:cool:

Just wanted to follow up and see what you had been able to come up with?

Hi guys and Ron in particular.

I'm starting to race seriously this season (buggy) and have invested in a new B5 Pro and a Werks clutch.
I'm running 2057 pipe but that one is not EFRA approved.
I know the 2058 is EFRA approved for 2014 but the list for 2015 hasn't come out yet.
If I want or _need_ an alternative to 2058 which one do I choose? I'm leaning towards more top end.
And also, how come the 2013 and 2057 is not approved?

Hi Klimpen, that 2013 and 2057 are simply earlier pipe designs. They used to be EFRA approved but in the case of the 2013 sound later became an issue and with the 2057 we just stopped racing with it as the 2058 is so much better so we stopped sending it in for approval. My recomendation to you would be to get the 2058, it is going to be noticeably better than the 2057 that you are running now!