Klimpen717 thank you for the update and glad that you were ultimately able to figure out what the cause of the issue was! Honestly I had to lol when I read what was actually causing it! You always have to go through a process of elimination any time that you are trying to problem solve, in this case there were a whole lot of things that I would have had on the list to check before getting to the body opening the tank when your car flexes a certain way! Compliments on figuring that one out :nod:

Noob alert
 

so i brought a piston stopper my my LHS and they never told me it wouldnt fit fit turbo plug engines ( werks ) so i put the piston to bottom dead center and stuck a flat head from the backing plate so the piston wouldnt move so i can take off my fly wheel nut. now my piston wont even go to top dead center. i think i made the sleeve out of round ;( any tips or do i just have to buy a new sleeve which is 145$

Hmmm. It's hard to say what you have done without seeing it in the flesh.

Important rule !!!! Never go sticking things metal inside your engine - especially if your going to lean on them for resistance or leverage.
There are parts made to very fine tolearances in there - some parts like piston skirts etc are pretty fragile despite being metal.

Hold the flywheel with a pair of multi grips and then undo the clutch nut. No need to go sticking things inside your engine at all.

Maybe post a picture or two and the guys might be able to spot something.

I hate to say it but you probably bent the exhaust port and I would guess damaged the piston by doing that. I hate to say it but it's more than likely that you will need to replace the piston and sleeve now.

As Grizz mentioned never, ever stick anything inside your engine to stop the piston moving (that includes using piston stoppers as I have heard of them punching a hole through the top of the piston!). To remove your flywheel simply hold the flywheel with a pair of channel lock pliers and loosen/remove the flywheel nut. Then when it's off, tap the back of the flywheel with the channel locks and it will pop off the collet. There are no special tools required to take of a flywhell.

Just wanted to give a shout out to Werks. Stopped racing and even running R/C's about 3 years ago, just stopped. Everything sat exactly as it was after my last race untouched. Got a little interested again with some prodding by my friends 5 year old and decided to see what was still working. I had ran my Werks B5 for at least a year before I stopped. To my surprise all my batteries charged up and I tossed my buggy on the starter box and it fired right up! 3 year old used glow plug, 3 year old Werks fuel and well used B5. Ran as strong as ever without touching a needle! And took some serious abuse from a learning 5 year old with no sign of letting up! Probably get a B2 soon to get my truggy running as well though I do have another B5 to check as well. Thanks for a great product!

That's awesome !! :)

I am a bit concerned I've damaged my b5, took it out yesterday to see how everything was after having a short break and about 15min in the car took off at full noise, I was in such a rush that I didn't haven't an elastic band on my carb as a safety and turned out it was a faulty connection on my switch that cause the rx to loose power thus sending the car off at full noise . It ended up hitting a fence and landing on its lid but was screaming for a good 30seconds before I could get to it . I shut it down and man was it HOT. The engine and pipe were smoking and the fuel was almost boiling . I put the temp gun on it when I got it back to my tools about 2min later and it was giving me about 170 so it must have cooled somewhat on the walk back . I pulled the plug out and the element was literally scorched almost to white dust it looked like, when I got home I pulled the engine down and everything's seems ok bar the top of the piston and the head button are a light greyish colour and almost look like there is some really tiny what looks to be little pits or kind of rough but really lightly if this makes sense. Have I lucked out and saved the engine or not. I can't upload pics and am really disappointed cause I love this mill and really wanted to get a chance to enjoy it. I have cleaned everything and put it all back together , engine still has nice comp and sleeve and port seem ok. Should I just fire it and continue to run it and see how it goes?

Best thing to do, is put it all back together ( with some sort of fail safe device) and see if it runs ok. The greyish color and pitting sound like it was running lean at one point in time. I would, just for the sake of being on the safe side, richen it up a couple hours on the high side, and run it. That will be the easiest way to see if its ok. Good luck.

As Jerm mentioned just put it back together and run it. Engines really do not cool down that quickly so if you tempted it after 2 minutes and it was showing 170F then it was probaly only in the low 200's which is safe. The white coloration of the glow plug is actually good, that means that your engine has been running properly tuned (there would be black carbon build up if it was running rich, or a dull grey deformed glow plug element if it was running to lean). The slight pitting on the head button and top of piston is indeed an indication of the fact that at one time the engine was run lean (the pits come from pre-detonation, basically the early ignition of the mixture charge before the piston gets to TDC).

The runaway depending on how long it was going unloaded could have stretched the rod. My suggestion though is put it back together, richen the needles a few hours to be safe and then re-tune from there. If you engine seems unusually tempermental and difficult to tune and is pre-detonating then you may have a rod issue, if everthing runs fine then you are ok. My guess is that you will be ok! Let us know how things go...

Ok, the car is back together and ready to go now so I will richen it a few hours and see how it goes and I'll keep you updated. I'm thinking I would like to have a rod on hand as a precaution is it possible to just order a rod and where can I get one from?

Edit: Ron I wanted to ask about my plug too, I'm running a no5 hot plug, the weather is fluctuating a bit here in Melbourne Australia,from low 20deg Celsius to as much as low 30's do suggest I keep using the hot plug? I was thinking of trying med out.

In Australia you can get our stuff from Ben Anderson with Pro RC. In regards to plugs I find that in warm to hot temperatures as the temperature (and/or humidity) increases you want to go up in plug temperature. So in the 20-30's especially if you are in the higher humidity range stay with the 5's, as you get into the mid to upper 30's with high humidity go with the #4. Go with a cooler #6 plug when the temp get's in the mid teens to low/mid twenties.

Plugs identification ?
 

How to tell a #4 from a #5 ?

I have been using a #4's in the summer and #5's rest of the year here in GA. I have all my still good plugs in the same bag and now realize I can't tell one from another :confused:.. no marking I can tell. Any way to tell a #4 from a #5 ?

You should be able to tell by looking at the side of the glow plug actually. The #5 has a small 5 imprinted in the side of one of the flats that the glow plug wrench goes over and the #4 should have a 4 on it. We've been doing this for a while now so unless you have some early plugs they should be on there. Otherwise take a look at the glow plug element, the wire diameter on the #4's is smaller than the #5's.

I ran the engine today after the mishap I had and it seems to be good. It's holding a nice idle,crisp and responsive take off and is holding a good steady temp. I didn't work it too hard and just wanted to test it to see if it was ok and seems I dodged a bullet on this one, no doubt these werks motors are nice and respond so well to the smallest of inputs it's great. Really like these motors.

I have seen 2 different setting for air gap ....

In the break in tips section , it says .5 ....

Further down in the same article there is a reference to setting it to 1 to 1.5 and turning screws .

which one is right for a broken in engine ? the .5 ?