Not sure what you are asking.

If tuning is gone with a full tank, then with a 1/2 tank of fuel the engine will be slightly leaner. But this is not your problem since you describe your idle as going quite high.

Listen to the advice given. Go rich young man.

the low end is out a 1/2 trun out from the box setteings the top is fine have not touch it yet

Forget box settings. There are no magic settings. There are too many variables that can influence tuning.

Richen that puppy out and be done with it.

thanks ill go a few more truns out

So that I understand 100% what you are doing what exactly are you referring to when you say box settings?

If your "turns" are 360 degrees, that's too much.

way the carb was set as it came out of the box.

If I'm not mistaken you've already asked a lot of questions about this in the past and we all pretty much advised you to follow the break in guide that is posted in the beginning of this thread. If you know what you are doing and can do this alone then there is no problem with you creating your own method for breaking in your engine. If you are new or do not understand completely what you are doing I would advise you to stick with the break in guide that I wrote that most people use as it gives you step by step instructions and we can all help you with it if needed.

+1 for Werks break in guide on page 1.

I just broke in my first new nitro engine and i followed it and everything went exactly as described there. Dont worry that it is a bit long, just read each step as you come to them, everything is explained in plain english.

Hey, I'm looking on the Werks website at their pipes, and not sure which one to get. The 2013 seems to be what most people suggest for the B5, but on the other hand, the 2057 with the extender option to basically tune your pipe by using or taking off the extender, seems appealing. Any chance someone might be able to give me some of the pros and cons of each to kind of help me make up my mind? I leave for Afghanistan in two days, and need to make up my mind and order before I leave!! Lol. Thanks all.

Chad

I would suggest seeking some help before damage is done to the motor. Factory settings are needles flush with the housing. Keep in mind that that might not be the way you get the engine. Page 1 of this thread has a VERY detailed guide on how to break in your engine using Ron's method.

Hi Chad, you are going to want to either run the 2013 for the most power or the 2058 which is a little softer but has better run time (about 45 sec). For truggy use most people just go with the 2013 and that is what I would probably recommend, the 2057 is going to really choke down the engine but will give the best run time and works better in buggy than truggy. Hope this helps, safe travels and our thanks for all that you guys are doing!

I have been running the B5 with great sucess, Love the engine with the 2013 pipe. So far i have been using #5 werks plugs. Unfortunately my plug died and there isn't anyone here in India who has them. Usually order them from amain but i need to run a race this weekend. Can someone please tell me if i can use alpha or O.S plugs, since these are the only plugs available locally. The conditions here are around 80f and high humidity.
Thanks in advance.

I'm not familiar with the Alpha plugs but from OS just run the OS P3 plug which should work fine for your conditions. Also are you by chance part of the group from India running our engines that was recently at the FEMCA race in Thailand? If so if you would please PM me your e-mail address, I'd just like to touch base with you guys!

Thanks. Yes i was the driver, used a B5 with the 2058 pipe. Managed to finish 5th in the 1/64 group A race. Quite pleased with our performance considering it was our first international race. We do not have tracks with high bite surfaces and huge jumps yet. I have sent you a PM of my e-mail id.
Ankush