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Originally Posted by utah300rum
(Post 10966226)
Well I may have spoke too soon...... went racing last night and half way thru the first qualifier my engine would die sporadically, usually after a fast section then braking into a corner. So I figured my clutch was acting up.
I pulled the engine replaced the clutch bearings, checked the shims etc....all looked good....second qualifier same thing, engine would die after running at a high rpm then slowing down.....threw in a new plug checked idle gap tried tuning this thing for over an hour until the mains....mains came and still the engine was dying....engine temp was at 215 degress After the races I messed around, setting the idle lean for a higher idle....extra rich and leaning the top and richening the top...all combinations I could think of, I got pretty frustrated to say the least..... finally set the idle gap to 1mm, and flushed the needles and retuned....that was the best solution I could find. After opening up the idle gap and re-tuning I ran thru 2 tanks with the engine only stalling out once. By then it was 1am and I needed to go bed. Any other suggestions or ideas why I would have to open the gap up that far? The repair tech from the LHS was there with me last night and he was puzzled as well, he said had some triple 7 sealent at the shop, so he took the motor home last night to seal it up... I am planning on installing a complete new clutch bell, shoes, springs, shims and flywheel just to be sure there is nothing going on there. |
I hope its not a bearing yet.... under 2 gallons on it, but you never know.
The LHS mech said he will look it over and if everything looks good he will seal it up and get it back to me.... I have a complete clutch assembly in my tool box ready to go in. |
As NitroFreakManHo mentioned check the compression first. You just did the fuel switch thing which hopefully did not cause any tuning issues as far as running the engine too lean which killed the P/S fit. If so you can probably do a pinch on the sleeve and get it back up and running. If the compression is ok then check the front and rear bearings. Make sure that they are smooth and when rotated that you do not feel any notchiness or anything. That is the issue with some of the lower oil content fuels, they kill bearings. If those feel ok then pull the carb apart and with carb cleaner spray out the orifices for the HS and spray bar to make sure there is not blockage or junk jamming them up. An air leak it is not going to be as that would result in an elevated idle that you could not tune out which is not what you were seeing. If the above don't solve it and assuming that the clutch and bearings are ok then you need to inspect the pipe and pressure lines. Then the fuel lines and tank.
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Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 10967608)
As NitroFreakManHo mentioned check the compression first. You just did the fuel switch thing which hopefully did not cause any tuning issues as far as running the engine too lean which killed the P/S fit. If so you can probably do a pinch on the sleeve and get it back up and running. If the compression is ok then check the front and rear bearings. Make sure that they are smooth and when rotated that you do not feel any notchiness or anything. That is the issue with some of the lower oil content fuels, they kill bearings. If those feel ok then pull the carb apart and with carb cleaner spray out the orifices for the HS and spray bar to make sure there is not blockage or junk jamming them up. An air leak it is not going to be as that would result in an elevated idle that you could not tune out which is not what you were seeing. If the above don't solve it and assuming that the clutch and bearings are ok then you need to inspect the pipe and pressure lines. Then the fuel lines and tank.
Compression felt good, compared it to my other B5, only ran 5-6 tanks of the sidewinder fuel, it had smoke, low run times, no lean bogging, or high idle that would be obvious signs of running lean so I am thinking running very lean was unlikely.... but my temps were higher than I would like so thats not a great sign, max I temped it at was 268, thats when I decided to switch back to the original fuel.... I put on new tubing when I put in the bearings because I accidently nicked one of them while cutting a zip tie.... I will have the guy look at the bearings before he seals it up. |
i would richen up the LS an hour of so........when racing, every time you're off throttle(more than you might think), the fuel transfers to the LS circuit.....high heat shows up after a few minutes of racing...sometimes even after 5 minutes....then, you've got this mystery high temp that comes on slowly.....try an hour richer on the LS..either way........cant hurt.
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Originally Posted by utah300rum
(Post 10967670)
Compression felt good, compared it to my other B5,
only ran 5-6 tanks of the sidewinder fuel, it had smoke, low run times, no lean bogging, or high idle that would be obvious signs of running lean so I am thinking running very lean was unlikely.... but my temps were higher than I would like so thats not a great sign, max I temped it at was 268, thats when I decided to switch back to the original fuel.... I put on new tubing when I put in the bearings because I accidently nicked one of them while cutting a zip tie.... I will have the guy look at the bearings before he seals it up. The fuel you run will affect how well the bearing seals..I only run ( Clocked )Werks fuel, and it's the best fuel I've run to date..I'm not sure what kind of lubrication package Ron uses, but it's top notch IMO, and does it's job very well:nod: Byron's is supposed to be pretty darn good too, I've never tried it, but I always hear that it's good. I have no reason to try it since the Werks fuel has always ran perfectly for me. Another thing is that Ron stands behind his product, which says a lot about his integrity as a businessman. The fact that he's here helping anyone who needs it speaks volumes. |
Up till this issue I have been very very happy with the Werks engines....
I tried nitro about 15 years ago and absolutely hated it. I totally left the RC hobby entirely because of the frustration..... I started running electric 2 years ago and last year was talked into a nitro buggy.... I was hesitant to try nitro again, but I was pleasantly suprised when I got my RC8 buggy put in a new werks B5, I had it tuned in no time and it ran soo well. One of the reasons I picked a Werks engine was seeing the response here from Ron and how well the product was supported. I was so pleased with how it ran, and easily it tuned, I bought more nitro vehicles and put Werks engines in all of them. I have been sheltered since they have ran so well, I have not been forced to gain any experince in troubleshooting and tuning issues. I really didnt want to switch fuels but was forced, due to having non in stock......I did find another hobby shop fairly close that keeps Byrons in stock... So I have 3 choices Morgan , Traxxas or Byrons locally. I am sure once it is looked over and I get it back together it will be diagnosed. Hopefully it is all user error :blush: |
Originally Posted by utah300rum
(Post 10968355)
Up till this issue I have been very very happy with the Werks engines....
I tried nitro about 15 years ago and absolutely hated it. I totally left the RC hobby entirely because of the frustration..... I started running electric 2 years ago and last year was talked into a nitro buggy.... I was hesitant to try nitro again, but I was pleasantly suprised when I got my RC8 buggy put in a new werks B5, I had it tuned in no time and it ran soo well. One of the reasons I picked a Werks engine was seeing the response here from Ron and how well the product was supported. I was so pleased with how it ran, and easily it tuned, I bought more nitro vehicles and put Werks engines in all of them. I have been sheltered since they have ran so well, I have not been forced to gain any experince in troubleshooting and tuning issues. I really didnt want to switch fuels but was forced, due to having non in stock......I did find another hobby shop fairly close that keeps Byrons in stock... So I have 3 choices Morgan , Traxxas or Byrons locally. I am sure once it is looked over and I get it back together it will be diagnosed. Hopefully it is all user error :blush: The B5 is a great engine, my CRE modded B5 has 7 gallons through it. It's been re-pinched, and runs great. I just put a Nova carb on it and and replaced the front bearing with a Nova bearing and really like the results, it's fast, purrs like a kitten at idle and flat out rips from bottom to top, and it gets the best run times I've seen from a .21 . I have a video on Youtube where it ran over 15 minutes on one tank ( the video was actually longer, but at the time, Youtube only allowed 15 minute videos for my account ), my driving kind of sucked in that vid, but regardless, the engine ran that long, and ran strong, without being lean or running too hot. I would stay away from Traxxas, Morgan works in a pinch, but Byron's is what I would pick in a heartbeat from those three ( Byrons is what I would run if I couldn't get Werks ) I hope you get things sorted out.. |
I have a bit over 2 gallons on my B5, and last race the carb came loose and won't tighten up. dose anyone have a fix for this
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Originally Posted by rocko117
(Post 10968452)
I have a bit over 2 gallons on my B5, and last race the carb came loose and won't tighten up. dose anyone have a fix for this
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Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 10968526)
Possibly tighten your cab pinch bolt??? If you have tried this and it still moves then you may have way over tightened the carb pinch bolt which deformed the composite heat insulation shield which is not allowing it to tighten/clamp down on anything. Either that or did you stip out the carb pinch bolt? Actually before trying to come up with 50 thousand answers why don't you give me some more detail on what exactly is wrong lol
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Originally Posted by rocko117
(Post 10970308)
I tried to tighten the pinch bolt, it did not seem to be striped out. like i said its a newer motor so i havent tried to tighten the pinch bolt, nor have i took anything apart on the motor. i had a bad rolover in the race when it hapend. i think that played a part
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Just thought I would share a great tip I got from Monty Houston in regards to pinch bolts. I have an older carb that the insulator was badly damaged from years of being pinched and my bolt would no longer hold the carb on tight. Even at fully tightened I could wiggle the carb back and forth. Monty told me to grind down the flat spots on both halves of the pinch bolt where they "pinch"
together and clamp down on the carb. I took off about 1-1.5MM on each side which allows them to be tightened together more and even though the insulator is toast where it pinches, it holds the carb in place now better than it ever did. Something to think about if this should happen to you. |
Originally Posted by NitroFreakManHo
(Post 10970462)
The pinch bolt doesn't come pre-tightened from the factory so that you can adjust the angle of the carb to your linkage/chassis..this should have been done prior to running the engine..
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Originally Posted by JoePit
(Post 10971129)
The carbs don't come installed period. That's the way my 2 engines arrived anyway.
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