Hey Ron, I might have an issue, writing to see what to do. I just noticed that the back plate to my B5 has a screw that doesn't tighten, it just kind of free spins. I've never taken the plate off, but during my maintenance after this last race weekend, I noticed it looked a little backed out, so I went to retighten it, but it won't screw tight. I will get it all the way in, but it then just keeps spinning. Is it good the way it is and have the other 3 screws in tight, or do I need to do something here? Thanks.

Chad

As SEF mentioned any time that you change pipe, fuel nitro content or brand, plug heat range, deck height or fuel/pressure line length you are going to have to re-tune your engine. So that is why your engine is rich:nod:

Your back plate has an o-ring around the inside so you are not going to have any type of air leaks. Three screws will hold the back plate on just fine but it is however not shall we say "factory correct".

Awesome, thanks Ron. That's good news.

Chad

I may be wrong but I believe the spacer is for european racing where the cc's are limited. for US racing the plug should be removed.

Did you get my PM Ron? Thanks.

Yep just got a little busy the end of last week. It will go out on monday along with one for a guy on the B6 thread.

Quick question.. I cleaned my b5 last night. I drop it back in and started it up today. I was driving around and noticed that when I increase speed, it will crackle slightly. I replaced the fuel lines but I didn't touch the needle settings. My average temp. is around 210 degrees. Any ideas peeps?.... It is very cold out today 60 degrees compared to 85 last week....

Awesome!!!:nod::nod::nod:

Can't wait to get her back up and running.

Good morning Werks fans, here is the stupid question of the day. Is there a quick way to identify a "2010" carb from the old carb? I have 3 Werks engines, 2 B5's and a B6. All were bought used. I am new to the hobby so I have no experience with the earlier stuff.
I am not having any problems with any of the engines, just looking for a education should I ever need to order carb parts. Thank you all for the help.

Steve

Hi Steve, it's really easy to tell. The pre-2010 carbs have composite carb bodies, the 2010 (and on) carb has a black anodized aluminum carb body. So...if it's plastic it's the early model, if it's aluminum it's the 2010+ model!

Oh my had to make it difficult.....LOL. Simple enough. Thank you for the quick answer and even quicker engines

After researching threads, I got my first werks engine, a B5. Almost a gallon into it, and so pleased with the performance and apparent customer service that I already have a Werks 2013 pipe with it, 2 more brand new B5's on the way, and a few gallons of Werks fuel on the way! I am running it in a Losi
8ight 2.0 buggy, on my private sideyard track. Went up to a 14t clutch bell, putting in a steele flywheel, 2 green/2 gold springs, 7075 al. shoes, and prob going down to the 6.5mm restrictor. Thinking of sending a motor over to Clockwork to give that a shot also. I'm not actually formally racing yet, just informally with friends, but I am a performance/tuning enthusiast, partially carrying over from my motocross background. I'll post a vid of my track, and if anybody has any tips on setup for this track I'm certainly open to hear!

I'll have to get some nitro buggy footage for you, but here is some E-Truggy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G79iRfZACGQ
No nitros have cleared the back triple yet, but with my B5 and a little jump grooming I will very soon!
Keep up the good werk!

Thanks for supporting our company and awesome track that you got there! Coming from a motocross background you know that the most important thing is practice and with a track in your back yard your certainly going to be able to get a lot of it!:nod:

Practice is certainly key, and I need/get a lot of it, but that never stops me from TRYING to compensate for lack of natural talent with cool equipment and different setups:D