Iv been looking to buy one of these mills but never had the money. NOW i do, so im looking for feedback from the guys who are using it and if you have used the new B6 too. Please tell me what you think and what kind of fuel milage you are getting and how many gallons your getting out of it. Also any problems (which i doubt there are any). They seem like a wonderful motor for the price!!!:nod:

hydrolocking...??? real possibility. no way, no way is raw fuel supposed to be spittin out of the glow plug hole when you loosen the plug....cold plug or hot plug...dont matter as far as geting the engine to kick over. bring the hi/lo speed needles to flush and check the cooling head bolts while you're at it.........

Whats harder on fuel consumption: A tight technical track or a medium/large track with random high speed straights?
This tight and technical I'm talking about is shown here even though it's not my car.

I'm getting a bit short of 9 minutes on that track with heated engine and a full tank. Should I expect more on this kind of track?

I think you're right, it sounds like your over rich and you're hydro-locking( if you have to loosen the glow plug to get it to turn over, you're hydro-locked ). The engines come set with rich needle settings, you will have to adjust them slightly to make them run for break-in, depending on where you live. Try a Werks #5 plug, and you should have no issues ( also be sure that you'r glow ignitor is up to the task )

I've been having a little bit of engine troubles the past weekends. Yesterday, I ran a B5 with a 2057 pipe in a Hara D8. I have 2 1/2 gallons on it. I flamed out at least once in every qual and twice in the main. I had some Pro's look at the engine before the main and they said it was running really great. The idle was calm and would run for a long time without throttle input. The throttle was very smooth all the way through and seemed to have no problems. It seems like I'm always chasing a tune. Also, when I pulled my car off after the mmain. It temped 270? And at 7 min of runtime, my tank was just about empty. Please if you could help a little, I'd appreciate it. It almost seems like one of my needles is way lean and the other is too rich.

Also, my top needle is about flush and the low is about 2 full turns in from flush. I run Byrons 30/11 and a Werks #5 plug.

Whatd you guys think is wrong?
Thanks for the help
Eddy

Also, my top needle is about flush and the low is about 2 full turns in from flush.


Sounds like your top end is rich and your bottom end is too lean.

Ron

In that case, why is it running so hot? If I lean the top end wouldn't it become hotter? Or does richening the low end cool it off?

Thanks for the help, trying to master the art of tuning nitro :batman:

Eddy

Ok - thanks for the help guys. I took her to the track and didn't use the heat gun once. I did have to loosen the plug initially, but once she was up to temp I could just turn it over normally. I do think she was too rich and I think my starter box could have a little more torque.

I fouled 2 plugs today and the guys said I was to rich. I was just too scared to lean her yet. OMG she is too fast. How do you control it? Jeez.

I can't complain, I'm happy now. She did stall a few times but it was a bog cutoff, again too rich. Someone said once she gets a little more run time the stalls won't happen. Not sure.

Both needles work together. Have a lean bottom and a rich top = hot temp. Have a rich bottom and a lean top = hot temp also. If you are flush on your HS and 2 complete turns (not just a couple hours but 2 complete turns) in on the LS then obviously your needles are out of balance and you are too rich on the top and too lean on the bottom. So please try what I advised...

also have a look at your clutch, that could contribute to your temps and runtime issue... when I ran the HB it was before the new werks clutches and the stock clutch worked perfect but when the clutch became to worn I had similar issues....not saying thats the problem just a possibility. the needles do sound a bit off

A bit off lol when I read his bottom end was 2 turns in on bottom from flush my first thought was he's lucky its still running, if that was a cheapo engine- bearings and sleeve would be toast and a major lean bog would accure right before the rod bushings exploded. Maybe those d8 clutches are crappy but that's still far off, at sea level I run MAX 3 hours in from flush, so unless he's like a mile under the surface of the planet he shouldn't be going in to much more then that n he's at like 4x that lol just makes me laf, in a good way no offense to OP.

what pipe were you using? You should be running a werks 6 with a 2013 or 2057 or 2058 pipe for the easiest set up!

from there you should check compression by holding the engine in your hand out of the car, holding the flywheel see if the engine tilted to the side can hold itself up, u will have to spin the flywheel to the spot where it gets tight before u tilt it, what you want it for it to hold itself up, if it doesn't then you atleast want it to have enough pinch to have it up for a second or 2. If it can't do that then it needs a pinch.

I just hope you go to flush n everything's good again.

3hrs. in from flush my engine wont even idle with a .5 gap....my needles usually end up around 1 turn in both high and low...

Hi,
Ive am looking for a new buggy engine. I was going to go with OS but i heard about there bearing problems. I also heard nothing but good reviews about the engine. Will the B6 pro beat the OS?

Hi, take a look at our B6 thread, which will probably have most of the answers to questions that you might have. In a nutshell though I think that you will find that it compares quite favorably ;)

It's all relative to the altitude and ambient conditions. Having said that though my point was that it is not normal to have one needle flush and the other needle 2 complete turns in as they are usually both set roughly equal just as you mentioned in your case.