Thanks. I had already ordered the 7.5mm restrictor, as I figured that would help. I'll give your plug a shot as well, as I don't know if OS even has one hotter than a p3, which is just what I've always run in other engines so I still have some. I have 2 brand new b5's already on the shelf, as I have been very pleased with this one already, and I'm running a Werks 2013 pipe as I love the rip right off the bottom straight through the powerband. I did try taking one of the two shims out today, figuring a touch more compression may help, and it seemed to be a bit better, does that sound right, or should I just put it back in?

There should be no problem running one less thin shim but as i allways say, if you adjust deck height make run one tank and then pull the head button to check for signs of detonation!

Would signs of detonation be a rough combustion chamber and top of the piston?

Yes

I have recently bought a B5 2010 model engine and i want to know what pipe u guys recommend. Im using it in a buggy.

It's a redundant question but I'm on the fence about pipes as well so I too would like to know if the Werks 2013 is still the best choice....

I've got a Dynamite 053 on mine and have been told it's not a great pipe, I'm not a fan of cheap pipes but it was on the motor when I got it. I've got a JP-4 as well but from what I've heard it's not a good "fit" for this motor either, in a buggy.


Now for my redundant question coming back to nitro after years off and little experience with them at all....

running a DNX408V2, when I'm near a fuel stop (less than a 1/4 tank) and I need to be marshaled :rolleyes: it makes it about 40 feet after getting back on it's wheels and then dies. Not on it's lid for that long either 4-6 seconds at most. I'm guessing by my LS needle movement that it's too rich on the bottom? Other than that it runs well, has tons of power, temps at 230.

Is there any chance that the plug could be the issue as well? You guys will be me up on this part but I have no idea how old the plug is either. Motor only has a gallon + on it though...

When in dought? Change it out, the glow plug is a very easy thing to over look. But a very important pice of the puzzle. For (IMO) the easyist thing is change the glow plug. And MAYBE lean it out a hour or two and see how that works.

I feel dumb and will say I should have known better (flew glow planes for years and would laugh at guys with trouble, walk by and say change your plug) 9 times out of 10 I was right.:rolleyes:



Tried to do a street run tonight and it wouldn't fire, checked the plug and it was WEAK. Put in a new Werks #5 and it fired up and ran like a champ. Gonna have to wait for next Sunday to give it a fresh track tune.

For a used motor with a "claimed" gallon through it I'm impressed, I'll be buying a fresh B5 or maybe a B6 Pro for the start of next season for sure! I was an O.S. guy for years from my plane days but I'm impressed with Werks for sure.

I run against some high $ motors and I just can't justify the cost when my "base model" Werks can hang right with them.

Hey werks crew and fellow werk lovers. I got a question on my Werks B5 Pro. My motor has just about 1 1/2 gallons in her. Yesterday I was tuning her for the weekend at my local track. I noticed when she reached around 225ish, coming down the stretch (possibly topping out or close too) the motor would cut in and out very fast but only during high speeds. Is it my imagination or am I doing something wrong?

Probably to lean on the top.

switched fuel not happy
 

I have a RC8b that I have been running my B5 with 7mm restrictor, werks 2013 pipe using a OS P3 plug....up till now I have been using Sidewinder 30% nitro 12% oil Race blend....a pretty inexpensive fuel. I have been getting about 8-9 minutes of run time running a little rich...motor temped out consistently at 210-220 after a 15 minute race.

The LHS ran out of the Sidewinder race blend and recommended the 30% Strike Team, same manufacturer as Sidewinder just their pro race fuel. I expected to need to lean it out, as the owner of the LHS said would be normal. I did lean it out quite a bit over 1 full turn on the high and not quite that on the low... adjusted idle gap and tuned as per Werks instructions. Set the idle, ran it up to temp, adjusted high then double checked low.

The fuel seems alot more sensitive to tuning, and hour makes a big difference, makes sense if the fuel is "thinner"...the issue is I have lost quite a bit of run time. The first test run after 3 minutes my motor was up to 260, still had a good trail of smoke, no lean bogging or high idle after running, no signs of running lean, I took a couple more laps and I ran out of fuel at 6 minutes:confused:

I put in a brand new P3 plug, reset the needles flush, set the idle gap and started over again, the best I got was 7 minutes on a tank coming off at 260 degrees... If I richen it up temps come down to 245-250 degress but runtimes drop to 6 to 61/2minutes.

It runs pretty good, good power, good smoke, good idle and throttle response...just crappy run time.

I am a little shocked, most local guys running nitro GT8 onroad cars have been trying to get me to switch to the Strike Team claiming their temps came down and run times went up just a little. I would switch back but the LHS has had the fuel on order for a while and it hasnt came in yet.

Anyone have any recommendations? I am running in Utah, low humidity, 90 degree weather at 4000 feet in elevation, Motor has just under 2 gallons on it.

Do I need to go to a different restrictor, different plug?....colder plug? hotter plug? change shims?

Not sure I have ever seen a Werks engine run at 260-270.

Honestly your tune is just off right now. Your too lean on one needle and too rich on another which is why you are seeing the elevated idle. The Stryke fuel is a low oil content fuel so you should be seeing less smoke than before so if you are seeing a heavy smoke trail coming out of corners this is probably a good indication that your LS is too rich. There is no need to re-shim your engine or anything like that.

Some might not be happy with me saying this but being candid with you, that fuel is probably one of the harshest in regards to engine wear. Given the option I'd probably recommend that you run something like Byrons Gen II instead fwiw.

A lot of people don't exactly have a smorgasboard of fuels to choose from.

True but the most commonly available fuel in hobby shops here in the US is Byrons which is why I'm recommending it to him instead of something like our fuel.