my bud will be selling Werks Fuel soon. will be switching from Byrons. anyone use Werks fuel 30%

I just tried a Dynmaite 086 pipe and the B5 seems much better. Being a top end pipe there seems to be plenty of bottom on the D8 with stock clutch.
I had broken it in on a GO 2072 pipe and had first race with it, and just didn't like it that much.

Is there much performance difference from with the 086 pipe and say the 2013 or 2056 (apart from Fuel economy)?

On another note tuning the LSN with the pinch test, how long should the engine take to die? I think i was getting around 4 seconds. How wide should I set my idle gap, i set it to around 1.5mm with the venturi in and when doing the idle test after a high speed run had to lean the LSN a bit and reduce the idle gap.

I'm just about to check where the idle gap is now.

thanks
Jason.

um... guys....
i DO NOT reccomend shims if your flywheel doesn't fit. i had a werks B3 and believe it or not, a werks adjustable clutch (i think it was the monster truck clutch and not the buggy clutch).. anyhow, it was rubbing the carb and case, i shimmed it and it worked for a while... then it came loose and it damaged my case and front bearings. I'd reccomend a different flywheel or getting the HB flywheel trimmed by a machine shop. Like i said, it's not worth screwing up an otherwise perfectly good motor.

my .02

It should take 3-4 secs for the rpm to rise not die after engine is up to running temp.I'm not a big fan of this method but it will get you in the ball park.

This is off subject but taking the wife to see the movie New moon today very excited! Has anyone see this yet? looks awesome!!!

RON....help..
 

hey ron....so, engine is broken in...thump at tdc when cold. good acceleration and top end..plenty of smoke which dimishes as speed builds up. running byrons 30% race in a losi t-2.0 along with a jp-2 pipe. problem that i'm having is that i'm having a heck of a time getting the engine to "idle down" after a high speed pass....tried every concevable carb setting(even going to extremes on the lo-speed)....to no avail. DOES return to a slow/steady idle after about 10 seconds....fuel system is solid..pressure tests fine......no air leaks. how is this carb supposed to be set to correct this ..?? i in my buggy's i race with a v-spec, ninja as well as a jammin .21 witout this issue......HELP.

Guys, the ideal set up I guess with the HB fly wheel would be to run a different (either longer or different taper) collet to move the flywheel forward but you are honestly not going to have a problem running a 1mm or so shim stack between the bearing and collet. We do this all the time in 1/8th on road when we are shimming our Centex clutches forward and back and those turn way more RPM than you will ever see in a buggy. Also if this is an issue that you are running into with our engine please keep in mind that .21 crankshafts (lengths & diameters) are all the same (basically there is an industry standard that all manufacturers adhere to), the only variation is the carb angle/position on the case which is the same on all Star based engines. So this is something that you will run into with ours, Sirio, Trinity, Orion AB and some RB engines also.

Bignasty if our clutch came loose it was probably because the pressure plate contacted the clutch bell which spun the spring tension adjusting nut off locking up the clutch and spinning the fly wheel nut off. As hard as it normally is to get a flywheel nut off anyway (when you pull a clutch off) this is the only way that I can see that happening.

alexrckid, your off on your needle settings. When you do a high speed run (you are 100% on the HS needle) and then chop the throttle you are basically consuming all of the mixture in the case putting the engine in a leaner condition if it is already lean to start with (you can kinda look at it as if in essence the engine is already in a lean condition to start with it is then creating a vacuum). Once you close the throttle the engine transitions to the LS needle. If the mixture setting is too lean on the top once you chop the throttle it will take a bit of time for sufficient fuel to flow through the LS needle to in essence bring enough mixture into the engine to bring it back to a normal fuel level (which we see as a steady idle). So... right now I think that you are too lean on the top which is probably why you stated that you went to extremes on the low speed needle and did not really see a difference.

To quickly tune your engine go to flush on the HS needle. Pop the airfilter off and set the air gap (with the idle screw) so that the carb is open aprox. .75-1mm (this is just a ballpark and does not need to be exact). Put the airfilter back on and then fire the engine up. Blip the throttle for a bit allowing the engine to warm up (say a few minutes) and then allow the engien to come back to idle. Now do not touch the idle stop screw but rather if the idle is elevated then richen the LS until it comes back to a normal level. If it is low then lean the LS a bit until it rises to a normal level. Once you have done this (and have a smooth, steady, consistent idle) toss the buggy out on the track and run a couple of laps and adjust the HS to get the top end that you are looking for. This will alter the idle speed of the engine (as fuel flows from the HS needle to the LS needle so if you restrict (lean) the HS needle more you are also by default restricting (leaning) the LS needle ) so once you pull in simply adjust your LS needle to bring your idle back to a smooth steady consistent idle (again do not adjust your idle stop screw) by again richening your LS if your idle it too high or leaning your LS if your idle is too low. Once you have this set so that your idle is proper you should basically be good to go. Give this a shot and see if it takes care of your issue.

Regards,

Ron

makes sense
 

Ron, your tuning advice as far as setting a reasonable idle gap visually then adjusting the LSN to achieve the desired idle makes so much sense. Any idea as to why other tuning advice doesn't spell this method out clearly? I mean most engines do give a recommended idle gap to start with but don't tell you once it's set to just leave it alone. I think this small bit of advice would make tuning of any engine much easier. Props to you for clearly explaining tuning regarding what needles control which part of an engines rpm range.

If you can't get it right from this, you might want to go electric;)

just make sure the shim is not bigger than the metal part of the bearing if the shim touches the rubber part of the bearing it will hurt the bearing. I ran a shim with my HB with no issues

Ron, you have a Pm.

Thanks

I just broke in my B5 today. Did it as per Rons insructions. I love this motor. Fires right up, idles great, and good power. I did have a little problem. Got some crap in the high speed needle during the idle process. Started the run process and it would keep dying. Took the needle out cleaned it back flushed fuel through the carb and bingo ran perfect. Get a nice cloud of smoke on acceleration and drops to idle perfect. Ive ran a quart of gas through it and seems to be ready to go to the track. The hottest it got was around 220 and that was at quarter tank of gas. I think tomarrow at the track I might richen the HS an hour or 2 and go from there. Ron I just want to say thanks for a great affordable motor. Now I can race and know Ill be competitive.

Thanks Ron for the tuning advice. I'll give that a go next time instead of the pinch test.

With OD 97t i'm still running the same one from break in. The plug looked in good condition yesterday before I ran the engine. Fires up straight away hot or cold.

Im running the same plug and a 2035 pipe car runs really well. Killer bottom, good mid, decent top. Im running it in a truggy 2.0