Ron,
thanks for the quick reply on my pm. As stated above this why there will be a werks engine in my buggy and truggy! Thanks for standing by your product and supporting it on here where you can get customer support! 2010 will be a good year in racing! I can't wait to pull some nitro throttle!!

ldawg, got your address and sent you a PM about the crank going out today priority mail. Afterward I was looking around and found some additional clutch parts. So I'm also sending you a replacement collet, one of Kortz's flywheels, a Kortz spec flywheel nut (slightly smaller diameter) and some clutch shims. Just add Jammin aluminum shoes and Jammin 1.0 springs and you will now have the exact same clutch set up that he uses. In a nutshell I know that all of this stuff is fine so unless it is your clutch bell, this should take care of your problem blowing clutch bearings.

Regards,

Ron

Sounds like a great mill, especially for the $. It might have knocked the new Reedy off my last A Main order had I been aware. This looks like my next engine buy. I have a AE2035 to run with the Reedy, and see one post here reporting good results with the B5/2035 combo. Anyone else tried this pipe with the B5?

SwampDog23, no problem!

markhat250, sorry forgot to reply to your post. To give you some history initially when we started the company one of the first lines that we importer was Collari Innotech (think this was around 2000). This was done by Collari and some backers and the engines were made for him by Picco. We did quite well with this (and was his largest customer) until he had a falling out with his business partners and they stopped making the engines which of course killed our engine business. Because of the volume that we did and relationship that we had we were then able to become the US importer for Picco engines (think this was around 2002). We worked quite well with Alberto and developed several product with him that you still see today including the P7-R buggy engine with which Kortz took 3rd at the Worlds in Sweden in 2003 and is still being sold today.

Around 2004 Collari started another line this time working with Star and because of our previous relationship we were invited to become the representative which we did. Needless to say we built this up and did quite well with engines like the B7 and Collari .30 and .32 until again there was a falling out between him and his business partners which again killed our engine business lol. At this point I said enough is enough and approached Star about acquiring the line. Because of the volume that we did and the relationship that we had established over the years obviously they knew about our abilities and manner of doing business and I'm happy to say that we were able to work out a deal to start producing our own engines joining what was at that time only a select few companies working with Italy such as RB and JP. I'm also happy to say that we became the first US manufacturer with a proprietary, Italian made engine line at that time too!

So there is some history for you! Is there similarity between the current engines and the old Collari B7, yes the cases look similar from the outside (even though they have actually changed and now have more re-enforcing) but for the rest everything is completely different today lol! Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

Thanks for the history lesson regarding Collari. I had one and always knew it was tied to Werks somehow, and now I know.

So running a B5 and a HB D8, the flywheel rubs the motor case and carb joint. Right?

I put 3 shims in there (two that are identical, one is different) just to get it on there for now. I am wondering what is the BEST way to put on an HB flywheel? Different collet? Shims? If shims, part number and quantity please.

I'm going to have to claim ignorance here because I have actually never had a HB D8 flywheel in my hands (maybe some of the other readers have installed one on the B5 and can chime in?). However I would think that as with any other flywheel it would only require a bit of shimming behind the collet. Actually reading back over your post it seems like this is what you did and got it on. Are you trying to do it some different way?

There really is only 2 ways I'de imagine. Shims or a longer collet. I put shims (mismatched ones) for now, but I would think that a longer collet would be the better way. But maybe both ways are fine. That's why I was asking, cuz I don't know :)

The RC8 flywheel is fine. I tried it. The HB one is for sure wider (the flat part where you bump the wheel against). This is the part that rubs.

Ok that clears things up for me, thanks! The normal way of doing things would simply be to shim behind the collet as you did. I have noticed that there is some variation between manufacturers in collet length but it is usualy minimal I.e. a mm or so. Having said that though I have never payed atention to who's is longer than other so this will be something that you will have to look into a bit if you want to go that route. Hope this helps a little!

Regards,

Ron

I also myself have had this prob I run HB flywheel on werks engines.I know this is probably not the answer your looking for and I too hate it but,go through your box O shims,washers and collets and try different variations until bingo it no longer rubs.I wish I could give you better advice but what your looking for is less the better.You do not want to many washers behind your clutch bell bearings this will give you too much lateral movement which will prematurely wear out your clutch bell bearings.
Hope this helps?

I run the D8 and D8T and I had to first add shims, then put on the collet until there was enough clearance bectween the flywheel and the case. Some collets are slightly longer but not enough to eliminate the shims completly. The shims will work fine. With no issues at all. Just make sure they sre the right size and fit snug on the crank and dont have to big of a hole to where they are loose on the crankshaft.

Okay i had this issue and the quick fix for me was to use the Ofna clutch bell shim kit that I had. This is the shim kit http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Bells-Shim-Kit
The shim that worked was the gold/bronze one, i used 2 of these and sanded one down to 0.5mm for a total of 1.5mm behind the collet. In stock form they are 1mm thick.

thanks

This is exactly why I was thinking a longer collet would be the better solution (more stable). The shims (because there are 3) seemed a little sketchy to me, and as you said, possible lateral movement. I was thinking the same thing, but I guess everyone is shimming.

The motor is too new, so we'll hear it sooner or later if this ended up being the ghetto way to do it. A perfect sized collet seems like the perfect answer for me. But maybe the shims are fine too. We'll see I guess.

Find a collet that is thicker in diameter this will not allow the flywheel to press on as far when your tightning the nut and yes three shims are to many.With the collet I use I only have one shim behind it.

I'm no expert, but I would tend to agree here. Any alignment, run out or balance issues with this application could lead to problems stemming from excessive vibration. This assembly is winding up to well over 30K rpm:eek::nod: