I've never really had a good nitro experience till now. Been doing electric because nitro scared the hell out of me frankly. This B5 has got me grining from ear to ear. Tooooo easy.

BigNasty, thanks for your recomendation on this sweet motor. I bought the Nova+4 AFTER you said you liked the B5 actually. But then saw David (Nova) and Bill (B5) break in their motors at the same time. After that, I had to go get the B5 no question. This is going off "ease factor" alone. The Nova I'm sure rips, but I just couldn't do it.

On my buggy and truggy, both B5's have never quit/flamed out on their own. I have had to stop them every time. Very good sign!! Loving the B5!!

See you at King of The Desert race in my new HB's and B5's.

No prob mark... you should have seen bill and dave drag racing the straight at SRS on wed... Bill won :nod: and he isn't even fully broke in yet.

I put a 2013 and a LEAN tune on mine and got 15:30 on a tank practicing on short track... i figure that's good for 11-12 at a race pace.

B5 owners, Ron said at the beginning of this thread that he COULD sell this engine for 300. True. He also said we're in a recession and he'd give all of us a 'stimulus' and offer this for 200 and make it up in volume, so by all means, let the racers in your area know about this great engine. Remember when Nova +4's fisrt came along? remember when the price went up by 80 bucks???? This IS every bit a 300+ dollar race engine. I went 'blah blah blah B5!!!' at the AZ tracks, and there are a lot of fast guys here like markhat250 who actually listen to a noob like me once in a while. Let's help Ron sell some engines and get some podiums. I got a B5 and a good chassis, the only thing keeping me off the podium is ME.

By my count, there'll be 5-6 B5's at the King of the Desert race... maybe more.:nod: Not that long ago, i had the only B5 at the track and people were asking about that engine with the black head... And thanks, again, Ron, for all you're doing.

I see one in my future:nod:. Price competition keeps the sport affordable to more people, which helps it grow and in the end is good for both consumers and vendors. I ordered a Reedy before I found this thread, and it was 25% more $. I was expecting my next mill to cost more, not less, but why spend more if it doesn't buy more? I bought a MP9 roller from SStoffer-should be here early this week. Can't wait to start some testing. From what I've read, the new Reedy .21/2035 has been described as being smoother in its power band than many race mills that have a more "on/off" hit to them. Anyone tried both for comparison? After not driving a nitro buggy for eight years, I need all the smooth I can get:D

How is the carb fastened to the case? Is it an o ring/friction fit, or is that hollow tube between the intake and case a drift pin? Does the carb rotate for setup adjustment? Other than heat transfer, how do the composite carbs compare to alloy in smoothness, longevity, etc. Has anyone run one in a K car? Any clearance issues there with the stock Werks collet?

I would like to know the power band of this engine as well is it smooth or on/ off ? I have a jammin .21 i put in my buggy , it's a great engine but just hits too hard. I am now running it in the truggy & it's good but need an engine for the buggy. I would be the first one running this engine at my local track, everyone thinks you need a 500 dollar os speed but i think it's overkill. So is it a better buggy engine or truggy engine ?

im having troubles with the carb on my B5 the carb sticks and does not move smoothly. this was also happening on my B7 that i replaced with the B5 because i it was stripping servo arms and trashing servos .anyways i was wondering if there was some way to get the carbs replaced or fixed.

this is turning into a customer service center thread lol:nod:

99% reason I bought mine :)

Marshon50, not sure why others don't give the same method as tuning advice. This has just turned out to be a system that works for me all the time no matter what type or brand of engine that I'm working on. Guess it's a trial and error things that comes from everybody and their mother asking me to help tune their engines (no matter what brand they are using) at all of the races that I used to go to lol! Bottom line though is that it works and it really breaks things down to the basics so following this system there really is no way that the engine can be tuned wrong because frankly if the LS is too lean the engine will idle high and if the HS is too lean the temps will be out of line, so it's kinda a no brainer!

hdcruzer, thanks for picking up one of our engines and also for posting your experience to date! Like you mentioned I'd either richen the HS and hour or two or just roll off the throttle a bit on the longer straights for another quart or so. After that don't be afraid to take it to race tune and have a blast with it!

markhat250, thanks also for picking up one of our motors (and BigNasty for recommending it!). It's posts like your that make me really happy and make me feel like we have done our job right when it comes to engine development! To be able to sell an engine that can be run competitively at the biggest events in the US by a pro and still be run easily by a relatively newer nitro racer speaks volumes I think about what we have been able to do with the B5. I'm glad that you chose our product and I hope that this experience will lead to a long path of nitro racing for you, one of the most fun types of racing that can be done in my opinion!

BigNasty, thanks for being willing to be the first at your track to give a new motor a shot! It sounds like you have made all of the nay sayers believers that it is possible to get a high performance and high quality racing engine at an affordable price point! Also you are getting some awesome run times!!!

Phm14, regarding your first post, thank you for considering one of our engines as a future purchase. If you decide to pick one up I would also be interested in hearing what your thoughts are on performance between ours and the Reedy engines. Regarding the power bands of race mills having a more on/off fell to them please do not forget that how and engine performs has a whole lot to do with pipe selection and for the on/off feel, clutch set up! I've been involved in engine development for off-road use going on about a decade now and things have really changed from a power band/performance stand point over that time. It's really an interesting thing to see how much car design, gearing and weight alters the needed performance characteristics of engines.

Also something to keep in mind when it comes down to engines is that a smooth power band does not always mean a better engine (design). A few years ago I was talking to one of the Italian engine designers at a race about engines and peoples perception of them. I mentioned about how everybody and their mother was running GRP engines here in the US at that time (mostly because most of the Losi guys were running for them and they had the just introduced their car which was leaps and bounds beyond the competition). Being from Europe (where I guess the engines were not that popular) and he asked me why? I told him that everyone raves about how smooth the power band is. He laughed and said of course they are smooth, they don't really make any power lol! Now I'm not re-telling this to start controversy, just giving you something to think about. There are a lot of factors that come into play when it comes to talking about performance characteristics of engines...

Now on to your second post. The carb is held on with our engines basically the same way that it has been done for the last 15-20 years I think. We use a carburetor pinch bolt type of set up. There is a split insert that slides in on both sides of the case that cradles the carburetor base (which fits into the block). Through this is inserted an allen head screw that when tightened pinches down on both sides of the carb holding it in place and stopping it from rotating. The advantage of this design is that it does indeed allow the carburetor to be rotated so that you can easily align the barrel for your linkage set up. Lastly regarding issues with the flywheel (as far as needing to shim it) this is pretty much going to be limited to some what odd, non traditional flywheels (and I mean to disrespect when I say this) which is why I have only ever heard of this with the HB so far. Again though this is a simple issue to resolve and only require a couple of shims and a few seconds to correct.

Romax, our engine has a pretty linear power band which can obviously be altered by the individual pipe choice but it is quite different than that of a Picco. The Jammin engine that you are running is basically a Picco P7R which we helped develop back in the days. Back then cars were a lot heavier, had less efficient drive trains and also ran quite different gear ratios. Because of this it was much more important to have a motor that produced gobs of torque to get the car going and also to be able to get up to speed quickly to clear jumps. Things have changed a bit with cars and as such with engine designs (as I mentioned in the response to Phm14 above). As far as what type of vehicles does the B5 work best in, frankly it works fine it both buggy and truggy!

junkee, I hate to say this but especially if you have had problems with more than one of our carburetors the issue is probably your linkage set up. I do not know what type of cars you are running but this is a really an important thing and especially a problem in Losi vehicles (and it does not matter what brand of engine you use). It is very important that the carb is set up so that the linkage is pulling completely straight on the slide and that the ball (on the end of the slide) that the linkage pops on to is not positioned (so that when the servo is pulling on the slide) that it is trying to rotate the slide.

Today's servo's are super strong with quite often over 180 oz/in torque. If the linkage is set up wrong they will bend things, rip servo horns in half and do all kind of other things that are not good lol! In your case what is probably happening is that the linkage is pulling at an angle and trying to rotate the slide in the barrel. The only thing that stops this from happening is the idle stop screw. This screw runs in a channel that is machined into the slide. So if you can image if you have a metal pin (the idle stop screw) which is in a channel and then you constantly push it against the side of the channel it is going to cause wear. When this happens repeatedly on carbs what you see happen is that it will create burrs in the channel that the pin runs in ultimately causing binding, just like you are describing.

To fix this simply completely unscrew the idle stop screw and inspect the tip to see if it is worn, if so replace if not then you can keep on using it. Next remove the carb boot (that fits over the slide) where is meets at the base of the carb. This has a little lip on the inside that simply fits into a channel on the composite carb body. Just pull it out a bit and pop it off. Then you can just pull the slide out. Take a look at the slide and clean off any gunk that might be on it. Then look at the groove for the idle stop screw and take a xacto knife, hold it at a 45% angle to the groove and run it up and down the edge of the groove lightly. Basically you are de-burring it. Once you have done this clean it well with fuel, and put a couple of drops of after run oil on it. Take a q-tip and clean out the carb body opening that the slide fits in and then re-assemble everything. The slide should now move smoothly and not bind. Now go over the linkage set up and get everything perfectly aligned otherwise you will have the same problem again in a couple of weeks. Hope this helps!

jmoneym & NitroAmmo, lol it does keep me busy but all of these questions and answers is a good thing! All of this combined with all of the pipe testing data and clutch set up information that everyone is contributing is turning this into a great re-source for people and I think that is quickly becoming one of the more technical threads on here which is great!

Lol, that was a loooong post. If I forgot anything guys just let me know!

Regards,

Ron

I ordered mine as well. Between the ravings of Clint and BigNasty I couldnt pass it up. My supplier if having a tough time finding me a 2013 pipe so I'll try it with some of the pipes in my collection first. I'll report back with my review and some comparisons with the Nova +4 and the stock v-spec

Im looking forward to getting one i am running the tl b3 right now and it a pretty good mill and ron does great job helping everone.

The B5 is a perfect fit in that buggy with the Werks 2013. :nod:;)

Well since I club race with Mike Battalie I like the B5, and tommorow i will be a new owner of one. I will be running a JP3 pipe with 30% byrons gen2 fuel. Will this pipe be ok on a short indoor track and will the motor need shimming for 30% fuel?
Thanks

Guys you will not be dissapointed with the B5 Got third in kyosho classic today in buggy and 4th in truggy running B5's in both and after a 20 minute buggy A main and a 30 minute truggy A main They temped at 220 deg and idled perfect never flamed out or gave any trouble for the 2 day event. ran 2013 pipes in both had gobs of bottom and I never got pulled on the 130 ft straight. ( approx) Against novas, sirios, ninjas and os speeds There was a lot of people amazed at the the race how fast these engines are and how cool they run. My pit man told me a couple other teams pit guys could not believe how the B5 was screaming! Then they heard my pit guy say 220 deg (after 20 minutes) they used there tempgun after the 30 minute main was over and it was 221 deg...Haha gotta love it! They said it was so fast they thought for sure it was runnin at like 270 deg. I also use Werks fuel so I am sure that helps too.:nod: