if you want less bottom go to werks 2058 pipe. I think a lot of guys that run it on truggy use a 2058 to

Thanks for the additional details. At about 1/2 gal your engine is still not fully broken in so you are correct, you will pick up a little more top end after another day or two of running. The 2013 pipe set that you have is what we consider our overall power pipe. It has a little more bottom and mid range power compared to the 2058 but has about 20-30 sec less run time. For most people running this combo (B5+2013) they are going to have too much power for buggy and it's still going to be a lot for truggy. All of that power gives you the capability to play around with a a pretty broad selection of gearing! I'd look at that first as it (changing gearing) also allows you to easily adjust the performance of your truggy for different track layouts without the added complexity of having to alter tune/re-tune your engine because of reducer changes. Hope that helps!

I finally got back into racing today and was able to take 3rd place in nitro buggy and ebuggy.

The last time I ran my Werks B5 I had some trouble with flameouts on the first lap out of the pits. Today I only had one flameout in my first qualifier and after that I was able to get the tune dialed in with no problems in the second qual or the main.

I noticed the top end was a bit lacking in the second qual, so I leaned the top by 2 hours and was able to at least keep up if not beat every other car on the straight during my main. I'm very proud of two podiums after not racing at all for over 5 months and very happy with my B5 engine. :)

Congrats and welcome back! If your first lap out of the pits you notice that you car is really sluggish, is blowing a lot of smoke, not accelerating properly and/or flaming out but as you do additional laps (warming up & heat saturating the chassis and engine case) you notice performance starting to get better then it's usually a pretty good indication that you engine is set very rich. In a nutshell the the flameout's are caused by the engine loading up with fuel and basically extinguishing the plug. So leaning the engine down as you did is the proper fix. It sounds like you engine is not properly tuned and you like how it is performing. If so next time out just fire up the engine on the box and warm it up blipping the throttle for a few minutes to heat saturate the case and chassis. Then let it come back down to idle and check the idle speed. If the idle is low that is an indication that you ambient conditions have changed since the last time that you ran (resulting in a reduction in air density), changing the air/fuel ratio of your engine and your engine is now rich and will need to be leaned out. It the idle is high that indicates the opposite, the air density has increased, changing your air/fuel ratio and you engine is now lean. Do not adjust the idle stop screw and hence your air gap, leave that alone..... instead adjust your needles.

Lets for sake of this description say that your fired up your engine at the next race day and after warming up on the box as described above you noticed that you idle was now high, that means your engine for the current ambient conditions is set lean so i have to be a little extra careful because running too lean can damage your engine. I then start off but adjusting my LS needle to get a smooth, steady idle by richening the LS needle 1-2 hours, blip the throttle to clear out engine and then allow to come back down to idle and check idle speed. I keep on adjusting the LS until I get a smooth, steady idle then put the car on the track to start working on the HS needle. Again I know that the engine was lean so I'm going to be a little extra careful about things and do 1-2 gently laps to see how the engine performs and then come in and check temp and how it idles. Most likely right off the bat the engine is going to feel really peppy (it was lean after all), I will have noticed it's not blowing a lot of smoke on the straight and I may find that the temp is already around normal operating temp after 1-2 laps. So to be safe I'm then going to richen the HS 1-2 hours. Because your HS needle affects your "overall fuel delivery" when you adjust your HS it also adjusts your LS fuel delivery the same way. So we now have to see how the LS has been affected and that we do by blipping the throttle to clear out the engine and then check the idle speed. The idle should have slowed down (as we richened the overall fuel delivery) so we would need to lean the LS 1-2 hours, blip throttle, check idle again and if ok toss it on the track and do some more laps to check top end and engine feel. Keep on repeating that until you have the engine working like you like and you have re-tuned your engine for the change in weather conditions. Hope that helps!!!

Thank you for the detailed reply, Ron. It's very helpful.

One thing I did notice is the idle bounces around a bit. Not enough to engage the clutch or stall, but it's not as steady as I'm used to. Is this normal? The engine transitions fine, runs well, and I don't want to worry about this if it's not something to be concerned about.

Edit: sorry everyone, I got things mixed up. I have a B6, not a B5. Not sure what I was thinking!

Yes it's completely normal on an engine from any brand that is not tuned properly :lol: Just like flaming out on the first lap out of the pits is pretty normal for an engine that is again not tuned properly. All joking aside if your carburetor is not set correctly the motor is going to exhibit abnormal behavior be it a high idle (too lean), fluctuating idle (usually loading up=too rich), flame outs, changing performance over the duration of a run etc. etc.

Idle will never stay 100% the same rpm for say as an example 5 minutes. There will be a little bit of variation in idle speed over time, so if that is what you are talking about don't worry about it. Also in regards to the engine B5, B6 (or any other brand/model) tuning is tuning and the concepts mentioned above apply.

Hey guys if there is anyone that has a piston and liner for the b5 I would be really in need. I sent my half gallon b5 pro to a buddy for bearings and then let it sit the last couple years with the plan of using it when I was ready. I opened it tonight to make sure there wasn’t and rust or anything and the skirt on the piston looked like this. Does anyone know if this engine is even able to be ran like this?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...18e7b598b.jpeg

what is the diameter of the piston?
amain has p/s kits for b2, I just purchased one hoping piston will be the same as b6 2 pro but its not. If im correct piston from this kit is 16.2mm

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...066deb3f3.jpeg

Does ANYONE know what the heck happened to Ron? Guy just disappeared and left a great brand of engines off the hook!? Totally GHOSTED the company??! What happened? How does the owner of werks and probably the most responsive man in the industry just disappear? Literally he just vanished! Kinda weird and scary at the same time.

his site is still up, various parts for engines still kinda availability and there are engines of sort available but his main race stuff gone. What happened?

Sounds like a Novarossi situation.

Weren't these produced at the same facility as reds? And reds has kind of exploded recently?
That was kinda my take on what has happened.

I'm not sure what happened, either. A year or two ago I talked to him over the phone and he mentioned there were some new engines on the way.

Picco make REDS, Werks engines were sirio.

I dont get the hype behind REDS at all, i ran their engines for a couple of years and they were rubbish... especially if the air temp was high.
Have they changed the last year or two? i see they've moved back to a short needle carb though.

Werks
 

I spoke with Jermey Kortz and he mentioned Ron Retired. I think it’s kind of weird for any business after all the years of support from the RC community to just get up and leave without thanking anyone for all the financial gains that were made during that time. But you know that saying all good things come to an end! I will say I have a few works motors still brand new in the box and I don’t wanna even use them but I’ve been running this brand ultimate M5 and that motor by far is way superior than any works engine I’ve had and I pretty much have had all of them! Including B7! But if they did come back I would definitely go back to running the Works engines again just because I really love everything about them and they’re really solid!