If you're running 40% at 5,000ft. Their needle settings won't be of much use to you.

Trevor i have a 2041 pipe you can borrow for the weekend where you racing at i will see about meeting you there ... also is the 2081 pipe the same as the alpha pipe that out i believe is 2081 too thnx Will G

www.ebmods.com/kbrl7.htm

Sorry so short everyone, in the moddle of relocating the shop to a newly built building. Trying to be back up and running by Friday the 18th.

Tuning Issues at the PNB
 

I bought a new .21 race prep to use in my buggy at last week's Psycho Nitro Blast and struggled with getting a decent tune with it all 4 days. Granted it was brand new when I got to the race, but I ran through 2 tanks on my starter box, then ran 3 tanks very conservatively on the track in my buggy. It ran fine when I was putting around the track, but when I started to get on the throttle after running the 5 first tanks, I couldn't get it to tune. (Running Byrons 30% and OD 97T plugs) I leaned it an hour on top from the box stock settings and it ran OK, then after a few more tanks, I leaned it another hour to start to work on my race tune, but it still wouldn't clear out on top. I tried several pipes - 086, 2039, 2050 and 9901, but it still wouldn't produce much top end. I tried leaning it out 1, then 2 hours more, with each of the pipes, but then I started to lean bog. Needless to say, it wasn't easy to run competitively during qualifying. (Lean bogging right before the huge triple made me come up way short several times and I broke an a-arm in 1 qual.)

Any advice on what I'm doing wrong or what I need to do to get this engine to run? I'm not going to give up on it yet, but the engine was definitely NOT ready for a race tune right out of the box!

if you over lean the hsn the bottom will bog. back out the hsn a little at a time till it dont bog coming off the corner, then start leaning the bottom till it rips and idles good. the top wont really come alive till after about a gallon of fuel.

im very new to this js engine, actually have yet to get mine. but after talking with a lot of people they all told me to not run odonnel plugs, use os p4 or colder. also shocker several post back said the 2081 is the pipe that works the best on this engine, and some pipes cause a weird hesitation......idk im just passing along info that ive recieved in this forum

I spoke to Ed on Wed before the race and he said the OD plugs would be fine. I tried a colder 99T plug too, but it was no help either. I won't use OS plugs anymore since a bad batch of them made me have to resleeve a vspec twice a few years ago because they dropped their filaments into cylinder witgin 10 minutes after installing them. Also, Ed recommendss the 086 pipe for this engine, so it has to be a tuning issue. Thx for the input though.

Sorry to hear about the issues you had at PNB. I wish you would of called the shop or emailed me during the race. I'm sure we would of figured it out.

The issue you explained sounds exactly like the OD97T plug issue that I mentioned on the phone on Wednesday. Please see the attached pics and compare to your glow plug. Basically the top of the plug bottoms out on the head button and not at the seat area at the base of the glow plug stem. Blow-By around the plug reduces the engine compression at even more at peak pressure making it very hard to tune the top-end.



FYI I have spoke to Steve O'Donnell about this issue and it has been addressed. But it is still possible to get old stock which may have this issue.

i thought it sounded like the plug from what ive been told,

ed you have an email
 

i sent you an email ed

Ed-

Now I know why they call you the "engine guru"! Luckily I saved the plugs I used in this engine during all four days of the race and I just checked all of them and they look exactly like the pictures you posted. When I was at the race, I saw all the carbon build-up and figured it was because the engine was running rich, which is why I kept leaning it out. And honestly, I forgot about the issue you mentioned when we spoke about the old OD plugs not seating in the head correctly. Well, live and learn!

What do you suggest I do regarding this plug issue? If you read my post above, I'm obviously not a fan of OS plugs and anyway since the threads on OS plugs and OD plugs differ so much, now I'm afraid of the button leaking if I do switch back to OS plugs. I guess I could buy a new button head to use with the OS plugs, but if you can suggest another brand of plug or know of a way that I can tell the "new" OD plugs from the "old" versions, I'd appreciate any advice you can give me.

I did think about giving you a call on Thursday, but I figured you'd be busy, as well as, stressed out with being in the middle of moving your shop.

Thanks for the quick reply and diagnosing the problem I was having so quickly!

On the previous page shocker said the dynamite plugs are a good alternative to the os

Will - Awesome. I will be at Fear Farm the next two Saturdays if you can make it by.

Ed - NICE!!!

Stubby - At your elevation, make sure you run the 8mm restrictor (not 6mm like we do here in the desert).

Officespace - When I got my first engine I was told that Joe uses the dynamite plugs, so that's what I started with and they work fine. They're about $7 at A-Main. Dynamite #5 Turbo Plug . Since the O'Donnell plugs are a novarossi style plug you may need a new head button to change over.

FearFarm
 

Trev, were gonna try and make it out also, we'll be checking out the motor
combo, thats our next engine

Hey Ed, When are the Hellfire Race Prep engines going to ready for order...Thanks!

My 2081 pipe should be here tomorrow. I hope to be able to do some back to back testing with it and the 086 this weekend. I will report how it goes.

23R Hellfire
 

Hey guys have just finished breaking in my JS23R, i have pulled the head off just to have a look at things and noticed that there was two aluminium shims but no brass shims! is this normal? I have a JS21 as well, which had one aluminium and two brass shims, and we removed one of the brass shims which realy helped with tune and performance and was going to try the same with the 23R, any info would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Scott

im not sure on the elevation and stuff in australia that would be something to ask edd about but you might benifit from taking a shim out.

Where i race in australia we are very close to sea level so the air is always good, looking at the shims that are fitted it looks to be a .3mm and a .2mm shim, i am just concerned that removing the .2mm may be to much, i guess i will try and see what happens, maybe Ed may chime in?

Cheers
Scott

Ed Please give me a call 240 298 4020. Been trying to get ahold of you. Thanks.

Brian just called and left you message call me back.

Hello Scott,

Stock JS .23 has three aluminum shims. Two 0.2mm and One 0.3mm. Here in the US we run the two 0.2mm shims. Total 0.4mm in shims

Stock JS .21 - In the US we remove the aluminum shim and only run the two cooper shims. Both these shims equal the one aluminum, which is 0.3mm

Um, they should be on AMain and Absolute web sites. If not just give me a call to place an order.

1-800-678-1037

Hi Ed and thanks for the response, i have just double checked my 23 and it had One 0.5mm shim and One 0.2mm shim, both aluminium, i double and tripple checked and there were not a 0.2 and a 0.3 stuck together? but i did remove the 0.2 shim on the weekend leaving only the 0.5mm and i did help a lot with tune and performance, but i have modified two OS 0.1mm shims so i can try 0.4mm in shims.

Cheers
Scott

IS the 086 pipe still the best pipe for the 23? HAs anyone tried the 2041 pipe on the 23?

Hi Ed, I have just looked at my stock .21 and it has three copper and one aluminum shims. I have not changed them since having the engine. I purchased it here in New Zealand which might explain why. One of the copper shims is thicker then the other two copper shims but not as thick as the aluminum one.

I run 30% nitro, what do you suggest I take out.

Regards,

Gerard.

Hi Gerard, yes definatley remove the shims that Ed has suggested, we had lots of tuning issues with our 21s untill we removed shims, and they also perform a lot better as well, and we also run 30% nitro, give it a try:nod: the thicker copper shim should be 0.2mm and the thinner should be 0.1mm, not sure about the ally one, but i would say you could just use the copper ones as they should shim to 0.3mm.

Cheers
Scott

Hey guys also i need a EFRA pipe to run on my JS23R, as i dont think the 086 is EFRA approved, i have a HongNor 2047 EFRA pipe which is a top end pipe and a OS 2060, would one of these work ok? or are there any other suggestions?

Cheers
Scott

Stock JS .21 - In the US we remove the aluminum shim and only run the two cooper shims. Both these shims equal the one aluminum, which is 0.3mm[/QUOTE]

Does the "race ready" JS .21 still come with the aluminum shim and the two copper shims? I just wanted to check with everyone before I pulled the head off my relatively new "race ready" JS engine to remove the aluminum shim as Ed suggested.

Thanks

Yes, I have done this and will see how it goes.
Cheers.:tire:

I just thought id post up some new pictures of my brand new AGAMA A8. I jumped to AGAMA/JS after being a AE or nothing guy for a couple of years. So far I am incredibly impressed with the both the AGAMA and JS.
http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/3249/42808436.jpg

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4754/68538610.jpg

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1449/30762529.jpg

Nice! How do you like the Agama? I'm good friends with Gene Hickerson, the US distributor of Agama and VP Pro and he's asked a few times for me to switch over from my Losi's to the A8 buggy and their soon to be released truggy.

I've driven the A8 buggy a number of times and my impression is that it is a VERY touchy and unforgiving buggy to drive. I'm a decent driver, but it seems like this buggy was set up to be driven only by top professional drivers and any little mistake you may make, it makes you pay - in a hard way. It might be just the actual buggies I've driven (they were all Agama factory driver's cars, including Gene's, and he can still hang with some of the best in the world on the racetrack), so I'd actually like to get an opinion on the buggy from someone outside our little Florida circle.

Thanks

pm ed

All the engines that come from me, are shimmed and ready to go for 30% Nitro. :)

Hello Scott, the OS 2060 will work.

Other EFRA pipes to consider:
Novarossi 9886
Mielke 2041

Hey Ed I left you a voice mail and called a couple of times trying to find out what you found with my motor please let me know.

Hey adubaz7 have you tryied to email ED .you know he ust moved to a new location.He is working on getting the new place set-up an all that requires.
I to was waiting to here from him an he's finally catching up some .it will be worth the wait im sure.it was for me.

also there is a new number 1-800-678-1037 or [email protected]

PS thanks again ED your the man

Rodger

Hello Andy, sorry I was out of the office Friday and didn't get your voice mail until this morning. Your engine only arrived yesterday, so I'll look it over and see what I can find, and then give you a call later today.

Ok Ed thanks for the response I know you had been moving and I was unsure if your phone system was working. I look forward to hearing what you find on my engine. At this point I have a buggy waiting for this engine and I have a truggy on its way so I really want to get this engine back to do some testing and hopefully buy a second engine for my truggy.
I apologize for being impatient I am just trying to be ready for the silver state race next week.
I am glad to hear that the engine is finally in your hands and look forward to hearing from you.

Thanks Ed