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Ed,
I just wanted to let you know how impressed I am with my new .21. I did about a half gallon or so of break in today! The combo of your engine and the competition heat engine heater, this was the easiest break in so far! |
We ran 10 minutes finals today as started late due to computer issues.
Ran the whole final in my serpent buggy without a fuel stop(only driver that did) and ran it for another 40 seconds after final before it ran out..good work JS:nod: |
hey ed what is the best all around pipe for the 23 ? are you going to the race in drums pa on sun
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Ed, I just sent you an email about an engine and some fuel to get ready for outdoor season.
Thanks, Michael |
Ed sent out my motor for my D8 today and I ordered another JS ,21 for my D8T this morning. I plan to run my dynamite 086 pipe on buggy can you make a few suggestions for pipe on my Truggy and also what gearing are you truggy guys running?
Thanks again to Ed for standing behind his product |
Originally Posted by adubaz7
(Post 8920480)
Ed sent out my motor for my D8 today and I ordered another JS ,21 for my D8T this morning. I plan to run my dynamite 086 pipe on buggy can you make a few suggestions for pipe on my Truggy and also what gearing are you truggy guys running?
Thanks again to Ed for standing behind his product |
I like the nova 9901 with the short header on my 21. fuel economy is awesome also.an OS plugs
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Last night was my first race with the Hellfire .23. I ran it with a Dynamite 086 pipe, 7mm vinturi, JS racing tornado clutch with 1.0 springs, and Ebmods 30% fuel. For the heats I left the engine a little rich but I still had enough power to TQ and with 7 min mains I had about 1/4 of a tank left. For the 15 min A main I leaned it out about a hour on the top and I went ahead and pitted at 7.30 and at the end of the race I had just a tick under 1/2 a tank :eek::nod::eek:, and I was able to win the A main by a lap!!!!!! Very happy with the engine it had tons of power and still got 10min+ fuel mileage..
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Originally Posted by ehames005
(Post 8941978)
Last night was my first race with the Hellfire .23. I ran it with a Dynamite 086 pipe, 7mm vinturi, JS racing tornado clutch with 1.0 springs, and Ebmods 30% fuel. For the heats I left the engine a little rich but I still had enough power to TQ and with 7 min mains I had about 1/4 of a tank left. For the 15 min A main I leaned it out about a hour on the top and I went ahead and pitted at 7.30 and at the end of the race I had just a tick under 1/2 a tank :eek::nod::eek:, and I was able to win the A main by a lap!!!!!! Very happy with the engine it had tons of power and still got 10min+ fuel mileage..
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The engine I run is the stock race prep. I have never run the O.S. .25 up till yesterday I had never run any thing but a .21 in my truck, and the engine is not yet fully woke up. So I can not yet say anything about the full potential of the top end but it pulled super strong out of the corners and continued to pull through the top end.
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Originally Posted by ehames005
(Post 8943287)
The engine I run is the stock race prep. I have never run the O.S. .25 up till yesterday I had never run any thing but a .21 in my truck, and the engine is not yet fully woke up. So I can not yet say anything about the full potential of the top end but it pulled super strong out of the corners and continued to pull through the top end.
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I have run the Orion CRF, V-spec, Speed, Reedy and the JS .21, and the .23 just seems to have more grunt out of the corners to get the truck moving and the top end to keep it going, also the mileage is as good as a Speed's. It really is the best of both worlds, big bore torque, and .21 revs and mileage.
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sticking carb slide
Originally Posted by bopracer
(Post 8208819)
Yes, I have the same problem. I also have found that my carb is sticking while on the throttle. It is not smoothly pulling out. Has anyone had this problem?
our engines dont come from the USA,so i cant coment on them ,) the boxes they come in arent big enough for the carbi to fit in,and they get bent in transit,theres no packing in the box to protect them,:flaming:(no information sheet either in some) also ,if you are lucky enough to get one with a manual,take note of the instruction given at the begining, "note : Before installing youre engine to the car.we suggest you open out the engine and clear it.:confused: i presume they mean strip and inspect, i love some of the translations, Tune pipe :NEVER run youre engine without tune pipe.Choice of tune pipe is very important to keep youre engine ultimately performance. Careful running the engine from the beginning is the masterpiece to keep youre engine long life and top performance.:lol::lol: on a more serious note,for those who run less nitro, :weird: head shim guidelines.& engine temperature guides. under-16% nitro -total thickness of head shim 0.3 mm - 20% nitro - 0.4mm(+ - 0.1mm more than 25% nitro - -0.5mm(+ - 0.1mm air temp -5c 5-15c 15-25c 25-35c 35c- eng temp 60c 80c 100c 120c 140c if cracks at happen at the all over the surface is too hot,this product is highly fricative and keep last long. ime thinking of ordering a race prep from a main,guess ile be waiting for a while to get here(can take 6 weeks)maby i should get 2,ive purchased 2 in aus,both have bent carbies,just got a new one,but have to shim it first,they come with .6mm @27 thou pack installed,this eng has the new crank case. cheers and remember,Ed's engine's KEEP LAST LONG;);) |
shiming for break in
Originally Posted by EBMods
(Post 8887130)
All the engines that come from me, are shimmed and ready to go for 30% Nitro. :)
ime located in north queensland aus,we run 25% nitro,very high humidity and temperature,its been that wet here the past 6 months theres not much racing this is my second js21,( with the new crank case ),the first, being my first hi performance race eng, i had a few dramas with the break-in,ie i didnt pre heat the eng,flooded it etc,but eventually got it right,all the locals are running os p3 plugs,ive changed to p4s and p5s,the pipe came with it vp 3023,recomended by the local supplyer.But i found this pipe ran red hot,(burned presure and fuel lines,and the fuel tank,and body,so i tried others. no one else has had the problem here. anyway ive inspected the engine,am about to re-assemble,and run-in, ime thinking .3mm shim pack, i ran the first eng in ,in the car,but this time i have a hudy break-in set up available to use , any tips? thanks in advance,ive been scanning this forum for months,and are learning more all the time,good on ya;):smile: |
Ed check email yo
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland
(Post 8982107)
Ed check email yo
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Here is a little video of me running my MBX6-T with the Hellfire .23
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiS1XRoQp-I |
Anyone have a .21 Full Mod case? I need the case only. I have a motor that is less than 3/4 gallon old, and it has a crack in the case. Send me a PM if you have one, or want to buy this one. It runs, but sprays fuel out the side of the case.
Thanks, Stephen |
Replacement Engine?
Ed,
I have been waiting for over two weeks for a return call from you, concerning the whereabouts of my replacement engine!!! I understand you have all my contact information and have been updated on the problem I had with my engine over 4 months ago. I feel as if I am getting the run-a-round because I was told by Joe that he had my engine 3 months ago which I never received. I would like some answers as to why I have not received my replacement engine yet. |
Originally Posted by C Gil
(Post 9026914)
Ed,
I have been waiting for over two weeks for a return call from you, concerning the whereabouts of my replacement engine!!! I understand you have all my contact information and have been updated on the problem I had with my engine over 4 months ago. I feel as if I am getting the run-a-round because I was told by Joe that he had my engine 3 months ago which I never received. I would like some answers as to why I have not received my replacement engine yet. |
I have no engines, and haven't been working for ebmods for over 2 months.
This is my last post in this thread. I wish ed & everyone on team ebmods all the best. For all those who I put on both ebmods & lucky 7 Rc teams your sponsorship with lucky 7 still stands. I've already received a few pM's asking about that so I thought everyone it concerns should know. Thanks all! |
Originally Posted by C Gil
(Post 9026914)
Ed,
I have been waiting for over two weeks for a return call from you, concerning the whereabouts of my replacement engine!!! I understand you have all my contact information and have been updated on the problem I had with my engine over 4 months ago. I feel as if I am getting the run-a-round because I was told by Joe that he had my engine 3 months ago which I never received. I would like some answers as to why I have not received my replacement engine yet. Chris, I did reply to your email several weeks ago, did you receive it? In short your engine was sent to Joe over 3 months ago, as requested. At some point Joe sold your engine and forgot to tell me about it. This is the day Joe quit at EBMods because I got pissed off he sold your engine along with others he "forgot" to tell me about. At this time I don't have engines to send for replacement, Just give me a few more days and I will locate one from a dealer. |
Originally Posted by toobad4u
(Post 9021427)
Anyone have a .21 Full Mod case? I need the case only. I have a motor that is less than 3/4 gallon old, and it has a crack in the case. Send me a PM if you have one, or want to buy this one. It runs, but sprays fuel out the side of the case.
Thanks, Stephen |
Thanks Ed, but I am pretty sure this happened at the PNB race since it was the only time I have ever ran this motor. I did case the triple once or twice. I went to a club race after that near the first of this month, and noticed it would run, but just wasn't right. I looked down and the chassis was covered in fuel. Looks like it is cracked near the LH front of the outside motor mount. Do you have any spare cases, I'll even take my old buggy motor back if I could get it. If you keep them around, it has the right rear part of the motor mount notched/ground down to clear a rear driveshaft.
Thanks, Stephen |
Originally Posted by toobad4u
(Post 9031247)
Thanks Ed, but I am pretty sure this happened at the PNB race since it was the only time I have ever ran this motor. I did case the triple once or twice. I went to a club race after that near the first of this month, and noticed it would run, but just wasn't right. I looked down and the chassis was covered in fuel. Looks like it is cracked near the LH front of the outside motor mount. Do you have any spare cases, I'll even take my old buggy motor back if I could get it. If you keep them around, it has the right rear part of the motor mount notched/ground down to clear a rear driveshaft.
Thanks, Stephen |
Thinks about that one folks.. I quit cause Ed got pissed.... Does that make any sense?? I don't think so. I believe ed & I are equally disappointed (pissed) with each other.
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Yeah Ed, my original was one of the very first ones you had gotten. I was just hoping someone on here had an old case from a blown or worn out motor.
Thanks though, Stephen |
Originally Posted by jpalessi
(Post 9031778)
Thinks about that one folks.. I quit cause Ed got pissed.... Does that make any sense?? I don't think so. I believe ed & I are equally disappointed (pissed) with each other.
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From the outside looking in...... I have seen Joe be super helpful to people all over this site, and always seemed to praise EB Mods. From the posts I have seen EBMods seems most concerned about who gave him how many stars in his thread.
If you want to damage your reputation and look like a child in front of a lot of RCT users, keep this discussion going in this thread. Otherwise grow up and don't pawn off your problems on someone that no longer works for you. You are the owner so no matter what you think, the blame is going to come back to you. If you run a business big enough to have employees you need to know how to manage your employees, easy as that. |
Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
(Post 9032649)
From the outside looking in...... I have seen Joe be super helpful to people all over this site, and always seemed to praise EB Mods. From the posts I have seen EBMods seems most concerned about who gave him how many stars in his thread.
Please don't make this about something it's not "STARS"... I responded to a question that was asked. |
What I was really trying to get at is..... You are a business man, why are you airing your dirty laundry on an open forum??? If that seems like good business practice to you then you should look into some free online classes to start you in the right direction.
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I hope you guys settle your differences about the whole situation. Your were a good team and you played a major part in the 1/8th scale engine brackette in the past 2 years with the JS engine. Its certainly not worth loosing a freindship, so don't let it get that far.:cool:
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Hey Ed I sent ya an email. I need to get a couple gallons of 30% asap.
Thanks. |
Engine break in
:D
Originally Posted by noddy2
(Post 8972187)
hi ed, ive been searching the thread for info regarding ,shim's for break in,of stock js 21.
ime located in north queensland aus,we run 25% nitro,very high humidity and temperature,its been that wet here the past 6 months theres not much racing this is my second js21,( with the new crank case ),the first, being my first hi performance race eng, i had a few dramas with the break-in,ie i didnt pre heat the eng,flooded it etc,but eventually got it right,all the locals are running os p3 plugs,ive changed to p4s and p5s,the pipe came with it vp 3023,recomended by the local supplyer.But i found this pipe ran red hot,(burned presure and fuel lines,and the fuel tank,and body,so i tried others. no one else has had the problem here. anyway ive inspected the engine,am about to re-assemble,and run-in, ime thinking .3mm shim pack, i ran the first eng in ,in the car,but this time i have a hudy break-in set up available to use , any tips? thanks in advance,ive been scanning this forum for months,and are learning more all the time,good on ya;):smile: just returned from 3 days racing,as nobody replied to my post,i proceded to break in ,following advice,and information gleaned from this post,and eng break in bible thread,i ran .4 mm head shims,p4 plug ,25% nitro,i preheated,and heat cycled,eng now had 3.5 litres through it, and had a great 3 days of racing.engine is faultless,.i posted a discription on eng bible thread,if anyone is interested,#256 page18 cheers johno |
js engines , active forum
hi , does anyone know of another js forum,? as this one seems to have fizzed out.
i'me looking for somewhere to both ,share,and gain tips on these engines. i'me located in north Queensland Australia ,and there are many of us running them ,i'me on my second one now . ive posted a few times on this thread,but get no reply's ? I've picked up plenty of tip's on this EBmods thread,but it does take a while to sift through all the bull-shit thats on here.Perhaps its a good thing we dont have commercial threads at "Australian racing" site ? here's the page ,and #post no's,that i found most usefull . about exhaust systems----- page 13 #178 author joe Alessi EB mods 2041 pipe 187 jud ^ 192 ^ sirio 2013 195 ^ ^ ^ 14 200 robert losi re11 207 ? sirio,werks,orion 2013 211 jp Alessi recommended Effra pipes,2041/2071 214 ? recward 2041 chrome 215 ? idk --efra numbers 16 240 ? os 2050 - 2060 17 241 ? ^ 242 Hambone 9886 losi,Reid,os 2060,losi RE10 244 ? Dyno - os2060 24 350 ? 086 pipe with short header 25 381 jp Alessi 9886 ,short header ,41029 384 ^ Any 86 pipe 29 428 ^ long run time ss 9901 33 282 ^ 2060,9901,2041 43 671 hambone nova9853ss-dyn 086 man 45 675 review RC driver 2041 pipe etc 1113 Qld ausi vp pro 3032 -longaxe rossi header 1224 EB mielke 2041,Eb2041,recford,navo9886-withnova short header,go 0801,os2060-with L header 1494 EB 0801 sh header 106 1581 c-dub nova 9853-41021 header 107 1599 winner 2060 pipe TUNING 23 338 Jp alessi tuning 344 ^ P3 plug 347 ^ glo-plugs p4,p5,p 25 361 ^ ^ os p4 warnings 369 ^ ^ ^ 33 572 ^ idle screw 626 ^ run-on 47 694 ? head shimming 51 765 ? lower nitro,hotter plug 52 772 ? o-rings 59 877 Jp alessi p5-p4 plugs-high humidity 61 913 ? hi-temp+humidity .004 shim 1420 EB js clutches and flywheel 1419 FM heavy ball crank more torque 101 1508 EB EB-MODS POLICY, + new engine 1557 Jp alessi does an about turn on p3 plug (hi-humid) 116 1738 Aust SHIMS 1743 EB ^ .3mm 117 1755 EB ^ thats it,i hope some-one finds this use-full,it took me ages cheer's johno.:D http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_...es/biggrin.gif |
That's good stuff Noddy2.
I have tried almost all the pipes and glow plugs on that list you made. My favorites are a OS P4 Plug with a Reckward 2041 pipe. As far as tuning it is going to vary by fuel, clutch choices, and air density that people are running and the way the weather is on a certain day. |
I guess the lack of tuning posts and secret combos is a good thing... Mines always spot on anywhere I go... I left here (4200ft) and raced in lewiston idaho a couple months ago (700ft) and changed my HSN needle maybe 2 hours...and it tempd the same as here 200~ and more power than I could handle in buggy :D
Stored it for the winter and been running the last 2 weeks locally, 2 weeks ago after the main it tempd 177 and haulin the mail, beat the previous hero lap track record by .6 seconds so I wasnt pampering it lol |
I have been running the 086 pipe and the P4 plug but I am about to strap on the 2041 pipe and try that out. Nothing but good things to say about the 086 but I just want to try somthing different.
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Originally Posted by noddy2
(Post 9059106)
:D
just returned from 3 days racing,as nobody replied to my post,i proceded to break in ,following advice,and information gleaned from this post,and eng break in bible thread,i ran .4 mm head shims,p4 plug ,25% nitro,i preheated,and heat cycled,eng now had 3.5 litres through it, and had a great 3 days of racing.engine is faultless,.i posted a discription on eng bible thread,if anyone is interested,#256 page18 cheers johno If you want to continue to use a .4mm shim, I suggest a P3 plug for a better combustion. |
tuning tips
Thank's Michael#81,and JoeGuam.
ime running an OS2060 now,but have nothing to compare,got a Recwards 2041 ord,and will make back to back comparisons,so far,no tuning issues with 2060, most racers i talk to in north QLD run os p3 in everything,on the coast,ime using p3 or p4 ,inland,p4 or p5,(some guys run p6 ) .3 to .4 mm shim seems about standard here,the Manufacturer includes shimming recomendations for nitro content,ie -under -16% nitro 0.3mm , -20%- 0.4mm(+ _ 0.1mm) , more than 25%- nitro 0.5mm(+ _ 0.1mm). The engines come shimmed 7.2mm @ 28 thou ,1 alloy @12 thou,1 copper @12 thou,1 copper @ 4 thou. ive kept the 2 copper shims (just a guess,would the copper shims aid in heat transfer ?) . regarding the glow plug,i had a few discussions here about p3 p4 plugs,still not clear on this one,is the p3 easier to tune with ?http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_...ilies/cool.gif |
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