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Great advice thank you, looks like the smarter thing to do is get a new button and run the cheaper Odonnel plugs everyone talks about. I hear pretty much you cant beat em' at that value
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Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 13540314)
Great advice thank you, looks like the smarter thing to do is get a new button and run the cheaper Odonnel plugs everyone talks about. I hear pretty much you cant beat em' at that value
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Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 13540314)
Great advice thank you, looks like the smarter thing to do is get a new button and run the cheaper Odonnel plugs everyone talks about. I hear pretty much you cant beat em' at that value
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Originally Posted by HomicidalBunny
(Post 13540786)
Be wary with the Odonnel plugs, they are notorious for dropping their coils when they fail. A dropped coil can and will wreck your engine in a matter of seconds.
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Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 13541565)
RC is fun !
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Uhhhhh
Put a p4 plug in your engine , tune it , run it , win some races and have some fun Rc cars !!! |
I know Monty so sorry I know im Killin you guys! Im killin me too rite now!!!! :lol: Last thing for now i swear...... but this is serious before I kill life on my engine, this doesnt make sense compared to what ive learned so far...
I have all this black black residue/oil? chalked onto a part of my head cumbustion chamber and piston! Looks liek I was running SUPER DUPER rich but I really havent been. Id say on the slight rich side ive been running on avg. but before that very rich for a long break in lets say pretty rich for almost a gallon. Do I now clean this crap off and run a new plug? Ive never seen black build up like this on an engine like this. Its kinda chalky and rubs off but its hard to rub off like its very lightly stained chalky residue. The mill is ready to be beaten on now and I need new plugs and a race tune now but hope this crap doesnt keep building up. I did run some break in fuel. When running sometimes i see a lot of smoke and sometimes a thin trail. |
Hey guys, Ive been having some issues with getting my Nova 7 port dialed in tune wise. Houston and the rest of you guys on here have helped me without question or hesitation and were definitely patient! :D I finally got it ripping nice and consistent today. This is all because of the support on this thread and the all mighty tuning bible!! I swear if you run a Nova or at least a Nova carb, all you need to do is take 5 minutes to go thru the tuning section steps for getting a good base tune. If you get your tune out of whack or dont have have a lot of real experience tuning and troubleshooting nitro engines, briefly fowllowing these very few steps for tuning will cure all your problems and headaches; presuming everything is in good mechanical working condition. The bible will get you running with a good tune and an engine that wont just die on you every few corners at the track. I ran almost 4 tanks in a row at the track today with out 1 flameout! For me lately, that is awesome. At the end of my running session the idle was too low and the lsn was a little rich i think still. It didnt want to idle very well.
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Whats up fellow Novarossi fanatics Does anyone have a factory setting for the idle screw? How many turns out or in for a good start point. Thank you
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Take the carb insert out and find a paper clip or something about .5-.7mm thick. Set your carb gap to that, reinstall the carb insert and put your air filter back on properly. Now tune .
Did you set your throttle end point so it stops at the end of the insert? Good Luck! I hope this helps. |
Good question Chris, I like to set it with like .7mm of a gap with the throttle return spring and the collar nut o nthe linkage. I read that there is suposed to be this little gap, I would imagine to keep enough tension on the spring to keep the linkage somewhat firmly closed against the carb slide at idle. But people now use rubber bands or hair bands or the LMK bands to really keep the throttle closed.
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Monty makes awesome reliable engines... still have that FMS from 4 or 5 years ago bud.. my Beat B4 died on the 11 gallon... longest lasting engine i ever had... it was to cold to break in an engine to get it up to race performance, had it as a spare all season and never used it... put that sucker in and wall ran like a champ, never missed a beat...
awesome work and great service right here |
Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 13578247)
Good question Chris, I like to set it with like .7mm of a gap with the throttle return spring and the collar nut o nthe linkage. I read that there is suposed to be this little gap, I would imagine to keep enough tension on the spring to keep the linkage somewhat firmly closed against the carb slide at idle. But people now use rubber bands or hair bands or the LMK bands to really keep the throttle closed.
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Yep Rubber bands are your best friend when your battery dies etc
Cost nothing and work perfect! :tire: Dave' FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA |
What we have found is that when you use a rubber band it can cause issues with the binding of the carb slide in the body. At least on the nova rossi carb tried it on did. I am just concerned about putting a load on the carb slide that prevents it from pulling straight could cause problems down the road. Maybe I am wrong but that is how feel and see it.We are using hair bands on our engines.
Monty what are your findings and thought's? |
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