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Old 06-23-2013 | 06:51 AM
  #8041  
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Monty, today we had a club race and I took 1st in buggy and even beat out last years Vietnam champ and the number 2 guy last year as well. The Fusion ran great! Ran the 2096 and 021 with the buku heavy shoes and a buku cap in my XB9. I was pitting at 10 minutes when everyone else was pitting at 7 and 8 and we had a miss communication and I stayed out for 11 plus! I noticed the high rev and luckily I was near pit road and got in just in time.

Now for the truggy results. Not so good, I got 4th which isn't so bad considering I tried the 9853 pipe for the first time today. I am not sure if it was the clutch or the pipe. I only have one 021 header so I ran the tighter mugen pipe as it is the closest to the 021 I have besides the one on the buggy. My problem was my bottom end, there was NONE. I was struggling the entire race, I would go about 15 feet before the engine would start to come to life. When I ran the hong nor 2080 it seemed okay as I was able to hit the jumps easily, but today there were two jumps that I would have to stay in the throttle all the way up to and around the corners which ended badly moire times than it did good.

Losi 8ight T 2.0 I am running the buggy gears front and rear as I can NEVER get the rear to last more than 15 minutes but still running the truggy center diff. Bonitto engine with the 9853 and the mugen header and the losi 4 shoe clutch. I haven't taken it apart yet as I just got in the door. Do you think it is the clutch or the pipe, or the gearing? I do have a spare center buggy diff, and I guess I can try one more time with the truggy rear and front if I have to. I am thinking of trying the 2058 and the 2080 again and see if that helps, but my clutch was just rebuilt at the last race and looked good. Nothing seemed to be slipping, it just seemed very doggy for the first 15 or so feet, on the box it would balloon like nothing but on the ground it took a while to get her to wind up, but once it did it was evil, the problem was that I couldn't make up the difference and with the big jumps on the track I was stuck going up and down instead of over them which really hurt. Everyone was surprised because last truggy race my Losi was the fastest one and this time I actually was about the slowest.

The Losi rear diff issue is the reason I am looking for a new truggy, every time I have built it I did it like they say. New everything, even spider gear housing and diff housing, aluminum inserts and NEW shims along with bearings and ring and pinion. I build it where it is notchy, then run a tank or so through it and come in and reshim it if it needs it. Then when I go out and try to race I get about 15 minutes before I hear the first pop. My throttle idles down quickly and I rarely land it with my finger on the throttle unless I have a pretty bad entry into a jump. Any help would be great, especially as I don't think I can repeat at the club race today it came down to fuel mileage as I was about 1/4 lap ahead of second, and I had 1 less fuel stop without it I would have been 3rd.
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Old 06-23-2013 | 07:30 AM
  #8042  
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The first thing that I notice is that you have overgearing since you use the buggy diffs.
Put the truggy again. And find what cause the failure.
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Old 06-23-2013 | 07:49 AM
  #8043  
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Originally Posted by GREGORY!
The first thing that I notice is that you have overgearing since you use the buggy diffs.
Put the truggy again. And find what cause the failure.
I really don't think that is the problem as I have ran the buggy diffs for quite a while and took 3rd at the Vietnam Championship with the buggy diffs in and the 2080 hong nor pipe and the 4 shoe losi clutch, same fuel everything else the same and I didn't have that issue before. The 2080 hong nor pipe had the double bend like the 41005 nova header. I am pretty sure that the buggy diffs are some of the cause but I also know the pipe is the main cause just really want as much info on the pipe as I can to see if I can change headers to help compensate. Putting the truggy diff back in is an option but it is last resort as you cant win a race if you can't finish it, look at the recent ROAR nats and who didn't finish. I have NEVER finished an event with a truggy diff in, last year I replaced with buggy as there were no more truggy diffs in Vietnam ( I went through 5 sets) put in my spare buggy diff and have had ZERO diff failures since. So I really don't want to change back unless I absolutely have to. But thanks for your two cents. I just have not had luck with the losi rear diff. I even made a video and sent it to a team losi driver the ENTIRE build and he said it was perfect, and said to reshim if needed, I did reshim and it didn't last 15 minutes. I made it through 2 heats and it failed in my final heat
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Old 06-23-2013 | 05:12 PM
  #8044  
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I suspect your short manifold is causing most of your problem. The longer your manifold the more bottom you'll get out of a given pipe. I had the same problem and same symptoms you descibed. Quite annoying. I threw the longest manifold I could find onto the same pipe and it got rid of the "turbo lag". I did some testing with different pipes and manifolds and it transforms the engine different ways... more bottom, more top end, less bottom, more mileage etc. My two cents.
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Old 06-23-2013 | 06:16 PM
  #8045  
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The rod in my X3L broke. Anyone know the part number of the wrist clips? I know as soon as I pull one, it will fly cross the room.
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Old 06-23-2013 | 08:31 PM
  #8046  
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Originally Posted by revo61
The rod in my X3L broke. Anyone know the part number of the wrist clips? I know as soon as I pull one, it will fly cross the room.
05000 i believe

rod broke? hmmm , which number does it have by the upper bushing ?
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Old 06-23-2013 | 09:03 PM
  #8047  
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Monty, I see from pictures at Nat's you got some new sticker's???? Will they make me go faster than with my old ones? Hahahaha..
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Old 06-24-2013 | 05:54 AM
  #8048  
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Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Monty, I see from pictures at Nat's you got some new sticker's???? Will they make me go faster than with my old ones? Hahahaha..
I picked up 3 tenths after slapping on some new H.E.S. decals. They are no joke!

DIALED!
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Old 06-24-2013 | 06:06 AM
  #8049  
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
Monty, today we had a club race and I took 1st in buggy and even beat out last years Vietnam champ and the number 2 guy last year as well. The Fusion ran great! Ran the 2096 and 021 with the buku heavy shoes and a buku cap in my XB9. I was pitting at 10 minutes when everyone else was pitting at 7 and 8 and we had a miss communication and I stayed out for 11 plus! I noticed the high rev and luckily I was near pit road and got in just in time.

Now for the truggy results. Not so good, I got 4th which isn't so bad considering I tried the 9853 pipe for the first time today. I am not sure if it was the clutch or the pipe. I only have one 021 header so I ran the tighter mugen pipe as it is the closest to the 021 I have besides the one on the buggy. My problem was my bottom end, there was NONE. I was struggling the entire race, I would go about 15 feet before the engine would start to come to life. When I ran the hong nor 2080 it seemed okay as I was able to hit the jumps easily, but today there were two jumps that I would have to stay in the throttle all the way up to and around the corners which ended badly moire times than it did good.

Losi 8ight T 2.0 I am running the buggy gears front and rear as I can NEVER get the rear to last more than 15 minutes but still running the truggy center diff. Bonitto engine with the 9853 and the mugen header and the losi 4 shoe clutch. I haven't taken it apart yet as I just got in the door. Do you think it is the clutch or the pipe, or the gearing? I do have a spare center buggy diff, and I guess I can try one more time with the truggy rear and front if I have to. I am thinking of trying the 2058 and the 2080 again and see if that helps, but my clutch was just rebuilt at the last race and looked good. Nothing seemed to be slipping, it just seemed very doggy for the first 15 or so feet, on the box it would balloon like nothing but on the ground it took a while to get her to wind up, but once it did it was evil, the problem was that I couldn't make up the difference and with the big jumps on the track I was stuck going up and down instead of over them which really hurt. Everyone was surprised because last truggy race my Losi was the fastest one and this time I actually was about the slowest.

The Losi rear diff issue is the reason I am looking for a new truggy, every time I have built it I did it like they say. New everything, even spider gear housing and diff housing, aluminum inserts and NEW shims along with bearings and ring and pinion. I build it where it is notchy, then run a tank or so through it and come in and reshim it if it needs it. Then when I go out and try to race I get about 15 minutes before I hear the first pop. My throttle idles down quickly and I rarely land it with my finger on the throttle unless I have a pretty bad entry into a jump. Any help would be great, especially as I don't think I can repeat at the club race today it came down to fuel mileage as I was about 1/4 lap ahead of second, and I had 1 less fuel stop without it I would have been 3rd.

If you don't have any bottom its because you are running the buggy diffs in truck.

PM me your email address and I will send you a excel spreadsheet that I put together to show what gearing you have in buggy and truggy. You can just input your numbers in the sheet and it will give you the final gearing and rollout.

I know with the Mugen buggy and truggy its a huge difference in gear between the two.
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Old 06-24-2013 | 06:12 PM
  #8050  
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Originally Posted by houston
05000 i believe

rod broke? hmmm , which number does it have by the upper bushing ?
13



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Old 06-24-2013 | 06:50 PM
  #8051  
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Originally Posted by revo61
13



Novarossi will nevef admit a problem with their "13th" version of the r7 rod , butttt us as engine builders say otherwise , sucks ass I know , trust me
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Old 06-24-2013 | 06:59 PM
  #8052  
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Think I can just replace the rod and clean it out good?
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Old 06-25-2013 | 12:13 AM
  #8053  
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Originally Posted by revo61
Think I can just replace the rod and clean it out good?
I wouldn't recommend it but its a possibility it might work

That poor engine has been through the ringer
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Old 06-25-2013 | 01:04 AM
  #8054  
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Originally Posted by houston
I wouldn't recommend it but its a possibility it might work

That poor engine has been through the ringer


Houston?have you see many r7/13 rods Been cutted?
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Old 06-25-2013 | 01:47 AM
  #8055  
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Originally Posted by Maxxed-out
If you don't have any bottom its because you are running the buggy diffs in truck.

PM me your email address and I will send you a excel spreadsheet that I put together to show what gearing you have in buggy and truggy. You can just input your numbers in the sheet and it will give you the final gearing and rollout.

I know with the Mugen buggy and truggy its a huge difference in gear between the two.
All I can say is DAMN! Punched in the numbers and it is one high geared motha. I need a 10t clutch bell

The funny thing is that with the 2080 it still held its own which after seeing the info really blows my mind it was like 37.83 final roll out and stock is 29.10. I really don't feel like ordering new ring gear and pinion gears especially I am going to be getting a new truggy in the next couple of months. I think I will try the other header and maybe go back to the other pipe for a while.

Monty can I get a .25 roma FM version I thought the Bonitto had plenty of grunt, but running at that high of a gear ratio makes it seem a bit weak. If I am running the Losi 2 aluminum and 2 composite clutch setup, would a 3 shoe setup be better, and what springs would I want to use? I think running a buku with that high gearing would just smoke it, but I do have a couple of 3 shoe setups and a couple of 4 shoe losi's laying around, maybe go 4 aluminum on the losi would give it more bite? What header gives the most bottom end, with my gearing I am not really worried about top end
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