Brass? Did u get it from me Nick?

If you did I shimmed it at .75mm, brass is .15mm

That should be just fine, you can replace the .15 for a .10mm after 4 or 5 gallons and it will help you out, do not go any lower than .60mm which is two aluminum

any GREAT deals on those 2084's? :p:p:nod::nod:

What is considered a great deal? For some reason pipes went up :confused:

Hi.

Perhaps I can help a little with the shim question:

One of my engines (not Novarossi) I use 20% nitro from the very first tank of fuel and stock shimms (shimmed for 25% nitro). Last year I had 1½ gallon through it. It ran really great without any issues. Here in March, I couldn't get the throttle respons perfect. Then I removed a 0,2 mm shim, and that made all the difference.

Perhaps you guys can feel the same thing, when your engines starts to have a flaccid acceleration :)

...Or Monty can correct me ;)

I did not buy the FMS from you it is bone stock and right now it has 3 shims in it. 2 aluminium and on Brass one. The motor is fairly new maybe 2-21/2 gallons on it. SO I should leave it alone for a little while and then remove the brass one down the road to give it a little more pep? Thanks for the info Monty.

Nick

That's a little odd , I have never got a production fms nib with a brass .15mm shim

Sure it's not a .10mm copper shim?

I am not sure if it is .10 or .15. I dont have a Micrometer to measure them. The motor was bought from Amain and it has an aluminum shim and then a brass shim and then another Aluminium shim. Should the motor have 3 shims in it?

Caliper's are Critical when playing with Shims, They can be had SUPER cheap and dont need to be Fancy Pansy 100$ units.

plus 2...

ok i just look at my stock FMS.. and it has 2 aluminum with 2 brass shim in between them.. totaling .80"... the brass shims are .1" each...

Silly , those are copper and I built that engine probably;)

I usually make sure the shimming is a little tall for break in :D

LOL.. yeah copper... i bought it from Rui

Sorry for the mix up on the metals. So what is the verdict? Should I leave the Copper shim in it or take it out?

i wouldnt recommend removing the copper shim completely , if it is just a .10mm i would leave it until you feel that the engine has lost a fair amount of torque compared to what it has had in the past .


if you have .80mm now got down to .70mm , if you have .70mm now i would readjust shim stack to .65mm which will require a .15mm BRASS (:D) shim and one .20mm copper shim along with one .30mm aluminum



hope this helps

Another happy customer
 

I thought I would share my recent experience with Monty. I sent him a 21-5 to see what he could do. Once he tore it down he called me up and we talked things over and he did his stuff. I got it back and ran it today for the 1st time and :eek::D:eek::D about says it all. It goes like a rocket my mbx6t likes it allot.
If any body is thinking of buying or having work done with a novarossi engine look up Monty 1st :nod: