Monty,

You funny guy you. Yeah I'm a lazy focker. LOL.

X7? Man I just got that XLT. Which I got to run today. Finally! Local track was just built for the season and now it's time for practice. I was just wondering if I wanted that blue head, could one be had at a fair price?

Tnaks for the little info on the cranks. Makes sence and I do know about the two or three stage idle thing you refer to. LOL.

thats kinda what i said , just not so nicely :lol:


James , do not forget to change that front bearing very soon !!!:tire:

Monty,

I finally got to race with that P5 and it ran like a champ all weekend. I can't speak highly enough about this motor. It's got great power everywhere and purrs. I fired it up and never had to touch the needles this weekend.

Awesome!
Thank you for posting the feedback,i really appreciate it, that is the main reason I do what I do :nod:

N21 BF (hot mod)
 

Monty, I bought a bf (hot mod) have been running this engine for about 5 weeks has about 1 1/2 gallons at most on it. Sunday after a 2 week lay off I went to run the engine it would not start. Replaced the glow plug engine started immediately made 1/2 a lap and died again. took out the glow plug examined it closely and this is what It looked like.

http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l...s/IMAG0016.jpg

http://s330.photobucket.com/albums/l428/vladconnery/glow%20plugs/

I put the engine away and got out my plus4 ran all day no probs. When I got home I took the engine apart. There is some pitting on the head of the piston and a fair amount on the head button. I never changed any shims might of fact I never took the engine apart as it was new. I am running the odonells 30%/9% and always use odnells plugs. Did not see any scratches inside the sleeve. The engine has no pinch left at all with plug out it turns through the stroke with no resistance at tdc at all. Usually to my knowledge even once broke in a piston going through the stroke at tdc will have some resistance I could be wrong though. What can cause the plugs wire to smash itself down like this. Not that I need to ask I know its user error somehow what do you think I did wrong? Love this engine I have been noticeably faster with this engine about a difference in 2-3 secs a lap faster since I have been using this engine. Now a firm believer in less is more and slower is faster and I have had them all just about FMS, P5, plus4, toro. For what ever reason I am allot faster with this engine the winning type of fast. Any advice is greatly appreciated and all criticism is taking with a grain of salt.

P.S. ordered new (ceramic) bearings and a new head button hoping I can save it.

Front Bearing?

Monty, I'm not that lazy. LOL. I'll be putting in a new one in about a half gal or less. Depends on how much fuel I get through it today. Might even have to send you the crank for some filling. We'll see. So far I'm liking the motor. Carb needles are still pretty close from Az. I went and hour leaner on top and bottom for my area. After the motor is broke in all the way, should I look at the head shims and remove one or leave it alone? Just asking.

Vlad,
Are those 77 plugs? Or 100 plugs? If you are running those plugs and the ambient temp is in the 80°-90° or higher range they won't last long but should last at least a few tanks

Doesn't look like there is any aluminum debris so I think the piston is ok

Hope this isn't the case but it could be the to bushing in the rod, I hope not though

I would say pull the engine down and check that, if that is ok then the shimming is off somehow , like it looks like there are no shims, should be at least.70mm

Check all that then get back to me

Monty 1 was a 77 and the other was a 99. There are 3 shims on the button 2 aluminum and 1 copper. Bushings are fine checked both ends of the conrod. The ambient temp yesterday was 75.

I am baffled if that happened to a 99 plug :confused:

not detination, contamination
 

not detination, contamination. Ither the glow plug wire fell in ,or simply piston failure.

Or you can look at pic and concider the obvious "very large toe nail clipping". LOL

Sorry

Contamination my first choice

RayAracing

sorry monty wrong thread!!!

Plus 4-T
 

#

Monty thanks for replying to my post I am quite baffled myself. However i still love the engine and will buy another in a heartbeat. Going to try to save this one first. Got my eye on one of those X3's do you know if they will come in a prerun model. I hate break in and loved the fact that all had to do was drop the bf on the track and start running it.


Ray thank you as well I will check the engine for any toe nail clippings :lol:.

Could you elaborate on piston failure a little for me and when you said contamination that kind of rung a bell. I noticed that around the crank shaft front bearing end the it was like a dirty oil. Also there was oil around the front of the bearing (outer). I run the RB engine protector amain part# RBD02010-001 on my engines. It goes over the crank and rides between a shim and the flywheel cone:

front bearing,shim, engine protector, flywheel cone in that order.

It is supposed to help keep any dirt from getting into the front bearing. When I took it off there was no dirt however I did notice oil on the outside of the bearing.

Ray I know when it comes to piston and sleeve fit your the best. question for you should after a 1 1/2 gallons be zero resistance through the tdc stroke? Generally I have always noticed a slight resistance or pop we can call it through tdc even with no plug installed. for the most part with the head off when you spin the crank it will push the sleeve out some not the case here.

we will offer a pre run version sooner or later , they are gooing so fast at the moment that they are not staying on the shelves long .


lmk if you need anything


the real question is how is the lapped in compression seal ? with plug in does iot have a really good , no leakdown compression seal? ;)

Monty, I have a question about the shims in a Stock FMS. I looked at my motor last night and it has two aluminium shims and one brass one. I remember reading somewhere on hear that you suggested to remove one of the shims. The motor runs good right now, but I was wondering if I should go ahead and take one of the shims out?

Thanks
Nick