carl how come u wasnt at proseries?

Great Job Dennis!

Jon & Cade

Is that standard for a Nova engine, 3/4 gall for break in??

most excellent Dennis!!!!

if you have your engines tuned well in the first place they should be able to withstand climate changes fairly well without major issues , a commendation is in order on your tuning ability great job!!

thanks for the update and keep it up

you can definitely start to run your engine on the track at 3/4 gallon but i wouldnt recommend a full on 95-100% power delivery race tune for the engine at this point

maybe a few quals but be nice to it and it will be nice to you

Hi Monty

I was looking for a front bearing for my Novarossi Plus 4. I just want to be sure that a 7x19x6 bearing will work instead of the 7x19x6.3. I remember reading about this somewhere, but I couldn't find it.

Thanks

yes any 7x19x6mm front bearing will work but why wouldnt you want the best one on the market? novarossi #17011 ?

just curious , somethings are not worth saving 5$ or 10$ on , trust me

That little fella' is a masterpiece. Had the engineer nerds disassemble one. Impressed across the board. Now,I don't particularly like these guys, but I will take their word on certain subjects...

engineer nerds? hmmmmmmm , well i guess i am an engineer nerd since i have taken apart a few hundred of em

you mean a few thousand?

That double sealed bearing is patented, is that how you spell it. Haha..

It's the one that comes on the toro, plus-4, and FMS.....

It's a bit more, but I haven't worn one out yet. Less work for me, better seal... Perfect fit.....

That's one more thing that impresses me about Novarossi, even the front bearing is pimped out...

At the track other racers alway tell me after the mains, "you know you never seem to have problems with your engine." I say Nova, it's so nice to have engines that I know are going to bring it home.....It makes raceday that much easier, I can spend time with my friends, work on my setup, have a latte, or help other racers....

The young gentlemen I pay too much to sit and draw pictures of things that can not possibly be manufactured with any profit margin whatsoever...LOL

Hi guys

I am struggling to get the power I need from my N21R limited.

It's fully broken in now (about 5L, maybe 6-ish).

initially I ran it with a 9901+41030, and it was a disappointing. I thought this was due to it being still not fully broken it but it didn't really wake up, even when broken-in. If I wanted to get some power out of it I would need to lean the HSN, but then it would collapse after 3mn from heat. This was very obvious as it simply wouldn't restart, you'd see the fuel being vaporized when reaching the carb and pushing back in the tank. when it would work (read be stable but slow), it'd do about 9mn30s.

I thought this was due to the clutch (brand new mugen carbon clutch, new springs, new shoes, new bell), grabbing at too low rpm. I replaced it with a brand new (shoes, springs, bell) alum one, initially with 1.0mm springs, then going to 1.1mm which slightly improved it but not much. we're talking a man's clutch here...

Then I tried a 41021 just to see if the header shape (41030 curvature is "narrow") would change anything - nada.

Then I put a brand spanking new 086HS on it today - a bit better, but still if I want it to weeeeeeeeeeee down the straight it will soon overheat. LSN is a bit more tolerant, the sweet spot seems pretty wide, to a point only, after a while the idle simply becomes very erratic if leaned a bit too much. Temps are an issue again (vapor lock as described above + spit vaporizing instantly). Runtimes have dropped to 8mn30s...

That wouldn't upset me so much (I mean, it's a $150 mill...) if my best buddy wouldn't have a N21BF from last year which litterally puts every $400 mill at my track to shame... and clocks 10mn+. We run the same fuel (CRF 25%), same plugs (Nova #6), same exhaust (41021 + 9901), and I've run his mill in my car before, I've pulled it apart, I've cleaned it and so on so forth, I mean there's nothing special to his nova... and it rips like a bat out of hell.

And by the way, this is a new tank too

So:
1- What am I doing wrong with mine????
2- what has changed from last years N21BF to this years N21R Limited?

I'm really beginning to loose my temper at the track and use dirty cusswords... would welcome any help

Thanks

Paul

It's hard to say...

I would leave the alluminum clutch on it, but use the 1.0 springs.

Check the engine head shims. i know they have changed the engines shimming to account for 30% nitro. I don't really know on that specific engine, but it should have .70mm total, not 80 if that is the case...One .10 copper shim, and two alluminum .30 shims. the newer engine have a brass .20 instead of the ,10 copper one...

Try that first.

Then richen up the top to flush, and readjust the bottom end, then lean it only to go full speed, no more. It sounds like it's getting too lean after it warms up on the top...

Put the 8.0mm restrictor on it if it's not on there. the red one.... or even a 7.5 I think it's orange...

Finally get rid of those Nova plugs...Put a Odonnell 99 plug in it for warmer outside temps, or a mc coy mc-8 for cooler outside temps....

The 41021 header is my personal favorite for everything...

The Sh pipe I haven't used, but if it's an 086 that should give you more top end similar to the 9886 nova pipe... but it ain't a nova pipe so I can't say for sure, but most copy pipes are good...

Not a fan of the 9901 for the reasons you described....Lean lean, oops it too hot....

I can tell you from experience p0ny up the cash for a Nova 9853ss pipe and use it with the 41021 header....

What car are you running?

Is your friend geared higher than you...Different car?

You could gear up one tooth on the bell just to try it if you need more speed, that engine should have plenty of torque, if not it's tuned a bit off....

The top end should be close to flush, the bottom lean enough to not idle low, if the idle is set right, and rich enough to not race high after a heat race....

I hope this helps man...

Does any body know if this bearing will work in a RB WS7III. Does the extra
.3 mm create a fit problem? I would like to put one in my back up RB mill.