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Originally Posted by mdowney
(Post 8989370)
Been doing electric for a while and considering picking up my first nitro buggy. Want to run an Orion engine but having a hard time figuring out whether to get a 3-port, 5-port, or 7-port. What's the difference? I assume it's top end vs torque with fewer ports == more torque, yes? Or is it more like overall power/speed?
And how do you decide on what pipe to use? |
Anyone know where the cody king or tebo engines are in stock at? Can't find them anywhere.
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Originally Posted by MooseDrool
(Post 8990714)
Anyone know where the cody king or tebo engines are in stock at? Can't find them anywhere.
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Originally Posted by ScottyM
(Post 8989463)
5 port IMO is the best all around.. 3-port typically will have slightly more bottom end, and they tend to get slightly better fuel mileage then higher port count motors, 7-port is typically the screamer, with the worst fuel mileage.. This is assuming timing is the same on port counts.. But most manufactures change timing from one version of engine to the next to get the most out of each engine.
BTW - Orion's website shows that these are in stock but you can't purchase them on the site. Other Orion products that aren't shipping yet, like their new ESCs, show as "Backorder" so that makes me think that the engines are available now/soon. |
Originally Posted by mdowney
(Post 8992739)
Thanks! I think I'll just go for the King/Tebo kit. If it's good enough for the WC it's good enough for me. :lol:
BTW - Orion's website shows that these are in stock but you can't purchase them on the site. Other Orion products that aren't shipping yet, like their new ESCs, show as "Backorder" so that makes me think that the engines are available now/soon. |
Im looking to make the change to Orion and was checking out the combo's.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...EFRA-2057-Pipe Is this the best setup or am i better off gettin the engine seperate with a diff pipe. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
(Post 9009958)
Im looking to make the change to Orion and was checking out the combo's.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...EFRA-2057-Pipe Is this the best setup or am i better off gettin the engine seperate with a diff pipe. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by ScottyM
(Post 9010615)
I'd consider a different pipe, either the 2058 or the 2013. Not seem to tune easier, and both make much better bottom end.. 2057 is a good pipe and makes good power, but it takes alot away from the bottom end.. But in some situtations it is an excellent choice..
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Originally Posted by pitpop
(Post 8685255)
:lol: you're going to love it.. we got Cody's this week and fired it up, and it was the sweetest thing... it just sounds SO GOOD :lol: it's a great engine that they spent a lot of time on and it's an exact replica of what the guys ran in Pattaya. We're running them at Nitro Challenge.
It should be fine in the truggy. We ran it in the buggy and it had tons of power. PS. Have been running a 7 port CRF for some time and have had trouble with the tune from the start and have flamed out many times after a pit stop. Any advise would be helpful. |
Originally Posted by Sonora
(Post 9011847)
I am getting the King version as I really appreciate all of the help pitpop.
PS. Have been running a 7 port CRF for some time and have had trouble with the tune from the start and have flamed out many times after a pit stop. Any advise would be helpful. |
engines
can smbody plz help me out and tell me the difference between the team orion engines and the alpha engines (made in taiwan which lutz uses) ..
and also where is team orion engines made ? i was told by a track person dat alpha and team orion alpha engines are same with a few diffrnces?? is it true .. im a newbie so i dnt knw much .. hellp is greatly appreciated .. |
Originally Posted by ScottyM
(Post 9012295)
I know PitPop will give better info, but how close to empty is the tank at the time of refuel? I've seen some engines go from those lean low tank conditions to uber rich and cause problems.. It usually results in a tuning issue, bottom end too rich I think..
It seems like the line between too rich and too lean is very fine on the low end? |
Originally Posted by pravesh736
(Post 9015623)
can smbody plz help me out and tell me the difference between the team orion engines and the alpha engines (made in taiwan which lutz uses) ..
and also where is team orion engines made ? i was told by a track person that alpha and team orion alpha engines are same with a few differences?? is it true .. im a newbie so i dnt knw much .. hellp is greatly appreciated .. The Team Orion engines are made at the LM Factory in Italy. The Orion looks to me to have a better fit and finish over all, IE less break-in time, mean your racing sooner. Life on each when tuned and maintained correctly is very similar with each getting 5-6 gallons easily. But, keep in mind many Alpha drivers spend nearly 2 gallons doing break-in while Orion drivers are race tuned at less then 1 gallon. What I am saying is you have potential to get another gallon of FUN from Orion. If you decide to get an Orion PM me, I'll give you some info on an excellent price for the Discovery engine with 2013 pipe. |
Originally Posted by Sonora
(Post 9015962)
This may be it as I have the tendency to load up any time the engine idles for more than just a few seconds. I always blow a bunch of smoke like an old truck upon opening the throttle. Once it clears out I'm fine.
It seems like the line between too rich and too lean is very fine on the low end? |
Originally Posted by ScottyM
(Post 9015987)
Yes it can be, but I haven't noticed that with my orion.. You might also be a bit lean on top. My suggestion is next race day, lean the bottom end and hour or 2, and richen the top and hour or 2, depending on performance of course.. When it is tuned right you will know. Also consider replacing your glow plug.. A weak plug can cause similar tuning headaches.
If I lean at full operating temp of 200 + I have better luck but find it difficult to keep it in this range while I'm trying to adjust it and end up putting it back on the track in the 170 range. Since I always preheat to about 150 shouldn't I be able to get it close at this time, or do I have some small leaks that are causing this. I have ordered new seals for the carburetor and am planning on pulling the needles and carb and reinstalling all with grease. The engine now has 4 gallons through it and still has very good pinch. The tunning issues I am mentioning started during break in after about 1 quart of fuel. I did add booster to the first 1/2 gallon of fuel se there was a lottt of oil present during the first 1/2 gallon. For what its worth, I started with a # 6 plug and switched to a # 5 after about one quart as I couldn't keep it lit with the # 6. Thanks for all the help. |
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