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-   -   RB Concept Engine Thread.. (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/251409-rb-concept-engine-thread.html)

TXRC8racer 11-28-2009 08:04 PM


Originally Posted by Chris Peralta (Post 6653216)
If you plan is to eventually replace the conrod in the S7 you should pull the engine totally apart and make sure everything else is in good condition. If you ran the same rod in the engine for all 11 gallons it's very likely that there was some slop where it connected to the crank and may have wore out the crank pin slightly. Use some calipers and make sure the pin measure the same all the way around and does not have an oval or egg shape to it. If the crank and rod both need replaced it may be a better idea to just replace the engine.

Allready done!! Pulled the whole motor down to bare crank case checked all bearings all good crank etc..
last weekend when I could not get a tune on the motor and the warmup of the Amain it would not idle with a new plug so I knew that something was internally wrong pulled the back plate off and seen a very small portion of the bushing was missing but the rest of the bushing was there but was cracked in about 3 or 4 pieces. I figure that the bushing was egg shapped but it was not it was broke into small pieces never seen one do that before. So there was a little slop with that small 1-1.5mm piece missing. But the crank pin looks fine not egg shapped at all...

Chris Peralta 11-29-2009 08:23 AM


Originally Posted by TXRC8racer (Post 6653242)
Allready done!! Pulled the whole motor down to bare crank case checked all bearings all good crank etc..
last weekend when I could not get a tune on the motor and the warmup of the Amain it would not idle with a new plug so I knew that something was internally wrong pulled the back plate off and seen a very small portion of the bushing was missing but the rest of the bushing was there but was cracked in about 3 or 4 pieces. I figure that the bushing was egg shapped but it was not it was broke into small pieces never seen one do that before. So there was a little slop with that small 1-1.5mm piece missing. But the crank pin looks fine not egg shapped at all...

In the future if you put a new rod in an engine once it gets to the 3-5 gallon mark it will last much longer. Those conrods take a lot of abuse in these engines especially with how tight an RB is when you first get it.

hard4nitro 11-29-2009 06:44 PM

I really didn't take the time to read the whole thread but l bought a RB modded C6 and broke it in. I went to the track to race and in the middle of the 3rd Qualifier the motor locked up. Took the engine apart and the whole bottom of the piston broke apart. So l went and bought another piston and sleeve and new bearings just because I thought it was something I did wrong when I broke it in. Well I put everything in and rebroke it in yesterday and went today and in the first qualifier the same thing happened bottom half of the piston gone just blew apart. I was wondering if anyone else heard or had this problem.

Regards,
Ashton

Chris Peralta 11-29-2009 06:51 PM


Originally Posted by hard4nitro (Post 6656421)
I really didn't take the time to read the whole thread but l bought a RB modded C6 and broke it in. I went to the track to race and in the middle of the 3rd Qualifier the motor locked up. Took the engine apart and the whole bottom of the piston broke apart. So l went and bought another piston and sleeve and new bearings just because I thought it was something I did wrong when I broke it in. Well I put everything in and rebroke it in yesterday and went today and in the first qualifier the same thing happened bottom half of the piston gone just blew apart. I was wondering if anyone else heard or had this problem.

Regards,
Ashton


How much fuel did you put thru the engine prior to racing with it? That sounds like something that happens if your trying to run the engine at too many RPM's while it is still very tight. These engines take more than 5 or 6 tanks break in before you can lean it out enough to really sing down the straight away. When the rod broke both times did it happen on a straight away, or maybe while reving in the air, or even while the car was upside down?

rageworks 11-29-2009 07:00 PM


Originally Posted by hard4nitro (Post 6656421)
I really didn't take the time to read the whole thread but l bought a RB modded C6 and broke it in. I went to the track to race and in the middle of the 3rd Qualifier the motor locked up. Took the engine apart and the whole bottom of the piston broke apart. So l went and bought another piston and sleeve and new bearings just because I thought it was something I did wrong when I broke it in. Well I put everything in and rebroke it in yesterday and went today and in the first qualifier the same thing happened bottom half of the piston gone just blew apart. I was wondering if anyone else heard or had this problem.

Regards,
Ashton

Can you post some pics of both blown p/s and the
inside of the engine?

hard4nitro 11-29-2009 07:05 PM


Originally Posted by Chris Peralta (Post 6656478)
How much fuel did you put thru the engine prior to racing with it? That sounds like something that happens if your trying to run the engine at too many RPM's while it is still very tight. These engines take more than 5 or 6 tanks break in before you can lean it out enough to really sing down the straight away. When the rod broke both times did it happen on a straight away, or maybe while reving in the air, or even while the car was upside down?

Its never the rod its the piston the bottom half of it. The first time was in a rythem section and today it was coming out of a corner. Both times l ran 1 Quart of fuel before l even starting to lean them out. Idled 5 tanks starting at 150, 160, 170, 180, 190 ect then put it on the track and basically finished like you would a traxxis motor no long straights and on and off the throttle getting longer and longer pulls. This is how l have done ALL of my engine the same way and never any problems.

Regards,
Ashton

aaron joy 11-29-2009 07:58 PM

I had a C6 piston let go like that. I bought the engine used, it ran great for a half a season. I coming down the straight away at my track.... engine shut off. Opened it up to find the same thing, the piston shattered. I have to find it and take a picture.

Chris Peralta 11-29-2009 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by hard4nitro (Post 6656548)
Its never the rod its the piston the bottom half of it. The first time was in a rythem section and today it was coming out of a corner. Both times l ran 1 Quart of fuel before l even starting to lean them out. Idled 5 tanks starting at 150, 160, 170, 180, 190 ect then put it on the track and basically finished like you would a traxxis motor no long straights and on and off the throttle getting longer and longer pulls. This is how l have done ALL of my engine the same way and never any problems.

Regards,
Ashton

Very strange that the same thing happened twice!!! Would like to see some pics of how it broke as well if you get a chance. Also on your first few tanks you should really try to get it closer to 180 or 190. These engines are super tight when new and 150 degrees is not hot enough to get the proper expansion to let the engine run free. Try heating a brand new engine to 150 degrees and then turn it over by hand and you will feel how tight it is at 150. Then imagine that strain several thousand times over and over while you run the first few tanks thru it, that is a lot of stress on any of those moving parts.

aaron joy 11-30-2009 09:50 PM

Here is some video of me racing at our annual Turkey Race at Checkerboard Raceway in NJ with my RB Killer 9. Im the lime green Losi 8ight T 2.0, like in my avatar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_bcsfXtLxE

hambone 12-01-2009 08:33 AM


Originally Posted by aaron joy (Post 6661915)
Here is some video of me racing at our annual Turkey Race at Checkerboard Raceway in NJ with my RB Killer 9. Im the lime green Losi 8ight T 2.0, like in my avatar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_bcsfXtLxE

Congrats on your truggy win Aaron. I just finished assembling the C6 USA with a new p/s/r and ceramics. Looking forward to getting it broke in. Put an onroad crank in the JP B8T that i've been fooling with. It's finally a very respectable runner. Both will be powering the truggy next season with the speeds wrecking the buggy, LOL! Hope to race with you soon.

aaron joy 12-01-2009 10:00 AM

Thanks Mr. Hamm,
You going to Bumps and Jumps Christmas Classic? Should be a good turnout,
bring that buggy out. Running buggy will only make us faster. You like racing with me?:blush:

I need to get a 3 port "Junior" for my buggy for smaller tracks. This 5 port "Hobby 9" hybrid is a monster. (turbo button, WS7 crank, Boca Bearing Ceramic MX bearings) Gonna try a 6mm carb insert to tame her down.

hambone 12-01-2009 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by aaron joy (Post 6663746)
Thanks Mr. Hamm,
You going to Bumps and Jumps Christmas Classic? Should be a good turnout,
bring that buggy out. Running buggy will only make us faster. You like racing with me?:blush:

I need to get a 3 port "Junior" for my buggy for smaller tracks. This 5 port "Hobby 9" hybrid is a monster. (turbo button, WS7 crank, Boca Bearing Ceramic MX bearings) Gonna try a 6mm carb insert to tame her down.

Nothing like mixing and matching! RB getting worse than nova, too many models. I don't think the xmas classic is do able for me since i will be starting a new job next week. Next time we run outdoors i'll let you try my truggy with the speed and a 9mm insert. Go big baby! Still goes past the 10 min mark reliably. I hope the C6 will do 10 min. The 8 port JP i bought does too.

Pete Martinez 12-03-2009 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by aaron joy (Post 6663746)
Thanks Mr. Hamm,
You going to Bumps and Jumps Christmas Classic? Should be a good turnout,
bring that buggy out. Running buggy will only make us faster. You like racing with me?:blush:

I need to get a 3 port "Junior" for my buggy for smaller tracks. This 5 port "Hobby 9" hybrid is a monster. (turbo button, WS7 crank, Boca Bearing Ceramic MX bearings) Gonna try a 6mm carb insert to tame her down.

Whats the date on the christmas classic.

aaron joy 12-03-2009 09:26 AM

Practice is on Friday 12/18, racing on Saturday 12/19.

Here is the website:
http://www.bumpsandjumpsrc.com/

jk1152 12-03-2009 05:41 PM


Originally Posted by aaron joy (Post 6663746)
Thanks Mr. Hamm,
You going to Bumps and Jumps Christmas Classic? Should be a good turnout,
bring that buggy out. Running buggy will only make us faster. You like racing with me?:blush:

I need to get a 3 port "Junior" for my buggy for smaller tracks. This 5 port "Hobby 9" hybrid is a monster. (turbo button, WS7 crank, Boca Bearing Ceramic MX bearings) Gonna try a 6mm carb insert to tame her down.

Congratulations you just built the newest engine from RB. RB Engine LIMITED EDITION 1. It's an S5 with a turbo head with an WS7 crank. Getting a little sick of all these limited edition flavors. I run my S5 with a turbo head also and really like it. I love how all the parts from the RB S series are interchangeable.

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...it=E01009-S5BT


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