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Originally Posted by PinoyCali
(Post 5883870)
Thanks cjtamu..
Do you have Chad's e-mail or contact #. Thanks.. Dishshoap, unless you didn't get something tight they normally don't leak when new. Mine was about 4 gallons old before the carb leaked and it's easy to fix with a little sealant. If you have a leak, there should be fuel somewhere (front bearing, carb boot, HSN assembly, etc.). Also possible that the air leak (if you have one) is in your fuel tank or in a line somewhere. I had fuel tubing tear at the top of the clunk in my 8ight tank and it caused off and on pressure problems. Last place I looked LOL. |
Originally Posted by cjtamu
(Post 5884249)
You can PM him here, or go to the Epic website and see if you can contact him there. Don't know if their e-mail addys have changed with the move and merger.
Dishshoap, unless you didn't get something tight they normally don't leak when new. Mine was about 4 gallons old before the carb leaked and it's easy to fix with a little sealant. If you have a leak, there should be fuel somewhere (front bearing, carb boot, HSN assembly, etc.). Also possible that the air leak (if you have one) is in your fuel tank or in a line somewhere. I had fuel tubing tear at the top of the clunk in my 8ight tank and it caused off and on pressure problems. Last place I looked LOL. Man I have checked and double checked everything. There is no fuel coming out from anywhere. Look below as to what I have done. Update!!!!! Here is what I did. Front Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. Center Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. Rear Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. I took apart the entire clutch. Shoes were good, springs were good, all bearings were good. The front engine bearing was good as well. I did notice some wear on the clutch bell. Pulled the gas tank off and did a leak test under water. No leaks. I put everthing back together cleaned every part and made sure everything was in working order. As usual started right up and the idle was perfect. Put it on the ground good punch on the low and at high speed performed perfect. 4 minutes into it once the temps were at the appropriate tempatures it flammed out. Pulled into the garage and put it on the box and it restarted no problem. Leaned the low end 1 hour. After 5 or 6 minutes flammed out again. Pulled it in again and it restarted no problem. Leaned another hour on the lsn and had to stop. I have nearly torn apart the entire buggy and everything seems to be working perfect. Power band was awesome and it ran flawlessly until it hits the 5 minute mark. I am clueless now!!!!!!!!! __________________ |
When you re-fire it are you filling up the fuel tank prior? we had a similar issue this past weekend, what had happened was inside the fuel tank where the rock filter connects to the tank had a small leak. As we ran the car and the fuel level got right to the connection of the tank and rock filter it began sucking air and fuel. This wont show up if you pressure test the fuel tank under water. The easiest way to check if it is a fuel leak is look at the fuel line, make sure you have a portion of fuel tubing that is clear, and run the car until it dies, then look at the fuel line, there should be no air bubbles. Try re-firing the car and see if it continues to have air in the line, if you have air then you can narrow it down to a fuel delivery problem and not an engine problem.
Originally Posted by dishsoap
(Post 5884281)
Man I have checked and double checked everything. There is no fuel coming out from anywhere. Look below as to what I have done.
Update!!!!! Here is what I did. Front Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. Center Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. Rear Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. I took apart the entire clutch. Shoes were good, springs were good, all bearings were good. The front engine bearing was good as well. I did notice some wear on the clutch bell. Pulled the gas tank off and did a leak test under water. No leaks. I put everthing back together cleaned every part and made sure everything was in working order. As usual started right up and the idle was perfect. Put it on the ground good punch on the low and at high speed performed perfect. 4 minutes into it once the temps were at the appropriate tempatures it flammed out. Pulled into the garage and put it on the box and it restarted no problem. Leaned the low end 1 hour. After 5 or 6 minutes flammed out again. Pulled it in again and it restarted no problem. Leaned another hour on the lsn and had to stop. I have nearly torn apart the entire buggy and everything seems to be working perfect. Power band was awesome and it ran flawlessly until it hits the 5 minute mark. I am clueless now!!!!!!!!! __________________ |
Originally Posted by dishsoap
(Post 5884056)
I know it still has pinch as I can feel it and plus it new and only has 8 tanks of fuel through it. I am guessing that its an air leak as well. I am starting to lose my patients with this engine.
Also, check your carb boot. There has been some that have issues with leaks there. It really only takes a small hole. Chad can seal it up for you if you send it to him or tell you how. I put a small ziptie around the boot as well. |
Make sure to seal up the carb neck. I had the exact same issue, I used some RTV and sealed the carb and boom, she will run all day now.
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What smracer posted is what I'm talking about. It's a bear to find until it happens once, something I check regularly now. Dishsoap, if I were you I'd look at the fuel clunk. Then I'd set my idle gap properly and leave it alone. Put the engine back to factory settings, then get the top end where it's running pretty well. Then adjust the low. One other thing I haven't seen mentioned is to check your linkage. Be sure that the barrel is fully closed at idle and doesn't close up any more when you hit the brakes.
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[QUOTE=cjtamu;5884249]You can PM him here, or go to the Epic website and see if you can contact him there. Don't know if their e-mail addys have changed with the move and merger.
Just send e-mail and pm. Hope he will answer back. I will try OS or NR cooling head. :confused: If extech is sirio base can I use the regular sirio green cooling head? |
Originally Posted by dishsoap
(Post 5884281)
Man I have checked and double checked everything. There is no fuel coming out from anywhere. Look below as to what I have done.
Update!!!!! Here is what I did. Front Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. Center Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. Rear Diff. Bearings good gears good filled with new oil. I took apart the entire clutch. Shoes were good, springs were good, all bearings were good. The front engine bearing was good as well. I did notice some wear on the clutch bell. Pulled the gas tank off and did a leak test under water. No leaks. I put everthing back together cleaned every part and made sure everything was in working order. As usual started right up and the idle was perfect. Put it on the ground good punch on the low and at high speed performed perfect. 4 minutes into it once the temps were at the appropriate tempatures it flammed out. Pulled into the garage and put it on the box and it restarted no problem. Leaned the low end 1 hour. After 5 or 6 minutes flammed out again. Pulled it in again and it restarted no problem. Leaned another hour on the lsn and had to stop. I have nearly torn apart the entire buggy and everything seems to be working perfect. Power band was awesome and it ran flawlessly until it hits the 5 minute mark. I am clueless now!!!!!!!!! __________________ |
anyone know where i can get a carb boot for my extec or know what other brand carb boot might work
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Originally Posted by Tim Dougherty
(Post 5884610)
How much fuel do you think you have thru the motor to date?
I tried every combination 1 hour at a time one at a time. It continues to make the same noise with the idle going high then going low and girgiling off throttle no matter what I do. In fact the more I got into it the worse it became. Off throttle the only way I can explain the noise is like a high pitched girgiling noise that sounds like is blubering and its loud. Its not a normal noise and becomes worse when it hits operating temps. No matter what I did it didnt make better or worse but more worse. The noise sounds like a clunker of an engine. At $360.00 I am pissed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I havent done anything to cause this problem no serious crashes nor have over temped it. I am stuck!!!!!!!!!!! |
Originally Posted by Tim Dougherty
(Post 5884610)
How much fuel do you think you have thru the motor to date?
I tried every combination 1 hour at a time one at a time. It continues to make the same noise with the idle going high then going low and girgiling off throttle no matter what I do. In fact the more I got into it the worse it became. Off throttle the only way I can explain the noise is like a high pitched girgiling noise that sounds like is blubering and its loud. Its not a normal noise and becomes worse when it hits operating temps. No matter what I did it didnt make better or worse but more worse. The noise sounds like a clunker of an engine. At $360.00 I am pissed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I havent done anything to cause this problem no serious crashes nor have over temped it. I am stuck!!!!!!!!!!! |
The motor is too lean, put it back to the factory settings and start over.
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Originally Posted by moparsrule
(Post 5886300)
The motor is too lean, put it back to the factory settings and start over.
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Dish, maybe your fuel is bad, and/or maybe your pipe is bad..Try different Pipe and new fuel
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Email chad and he will give them to you, the motor is making that noise and has a high idle off throttle because it is starving for fuel.
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
(Post 5886385)
Dish, maybe your fuel is bad, and/or maybe your pipe is bad..Try different Pipe and new fuel
Quote: Originally Posted by Jaz240 Try different fuel Dish, you may have a bad batch How common is it to get a bad batch of fuel. I started thinking about this and here is what I have come up with. If you remember my first post when I started having problems I stated that the week before it was perfect during practice and had zero problems breaking it in and running it during a practice session. I started having problems on race day two Saturdays ago and have had problems ever since. Two Saturdays ago is when I bought a brand new gallon of fuel. In fact I didnt even show up with the last gallon that I had becuase I used it all up during the practice that I had when it ran great. Since the get go of this new gallon of fuel I have had problems. I also started thinking about my sons 1.0 during race day. I had his buggy set up perfect and it flammed out a couple of times during the races which never happend to me in the past before handing it down. I also had to play with his idle in between races as it was higher than normal. I also had to replace a glow plug in his that was fairly new. We were both using the same new gallon of fuel. Jaz and everyone else, this could be it. I am hoping that this is the problem but questioning how often this could happen. I am going to order some stuff online to test it. If I buy another gallon from hobby town I could possibly run into the same problem if it is a bad batch. At least this is one other thing that I can eliminate if its not the problem. __________________ |
Bad fuel will make you pull your hair out, grab a new gallon(different batch or brand) and try that.
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Originally Posted by dishsoap
(Post 5886226)
8 or 9 tanks. The linkage is good on it. Based on today I think I have a serious problem. I took the time today to really focus on just getting it tunned with no luck. No matter which way I turned the needles the same thing would happen.
I tried every combination 1 hour at a time one at a time. It continues to make the same noise with the idle going high then going low and girgiling off throttle no matter what I do. In fact the more I got into it the worse it became. Off throttle the only way I can explain the noise is like a high pitched girgiling noise that sounds like is blubering and its loud. Its not a normal noise and becomes worse when it hits operating temps. No matter what I did it didnt make better or worse but more worse. The noise sounds like a clunker of an engine. At $360.00 I am pissed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I havent done anything to cause this problem no serious crashes nor have over temped it. I am stuck!!!!!!!!!!! |
racing head
I have no luck finding cooling head.( out of stock) .:( ....... Anybody using aftermarket or diff. brand cooling head?...
Thanks.. |
Originally Posted by dishsoap
(Post 5886603)
Ok guys here is the new theory. Jaz mentioned this in my local thread and here is how I responded. What does everyone think of this theory!!!!!!
Quote: Originally Posted by Jaz240 Try different fuel Dish, you may have a bad batch How common is it to get a bad batch of fuel. I started thinking about this and here is what I have come up with. If you remember my first post when I started having problems I stated that the week before it was perfect during practice and had zero problems breaking it in and running it during a practice session. I started having problems on race day two Saturdays ago and have had problems ever since. Two Saturdays ago is when I bought a brand new gallon of fuel. In fact I didnt even show up with the last gallon that I had becuase I used it all up during the practice that I had when it ran great. Since the get go of this new gallon of fuel I have had problems. I also started thinking about my sons 1.0 during race day. I had his buggy set up perfect and it flammed out a couple of times during the races which never happend to me in the past before handing it down. I also had to play with his idle in between races as it was higher than normal. I also had to replace a glow plug in his that was fairly new. We were both using the same new gallon of fuel. Jaz and everyone else, this could be it. I am hoping that this is the problem but questioning how often this could happen. I am going to order some stuff online to test it. If I buy another gallon from hobby town I could possibly run into the same problem if it is a bad batch. At least this is one other thing that I can eliminate if its not the problem. __________________ cheezy91, you can use a go tech carb boot if your in a pinch, just use some engine sealant on it and zip tie the big end, its a bit narrower on the big end and using the zip tie spreads it out a bit and works fine.I actually liked the go boot a little better than the stock cause its a better and thicker rubber and doesn't tear so easily. |
smracer, got the head button today. Thanks a million.
Pinoy, try a Werks or other Sirio head with the same bolt pattern. I've heard they work. May not run just the same but should get you through till you can lay hands on another Extech head. |
Thank you very much ... I will wait for Chad to reply e-mail till friday if not I will buy the sirio .21 head.
Originally Posted by cjtamu
(Post 5888265)
smracer, got the head button today. Thanks a million.
Pinoy, try a Werks or other Sirio head with the same bolt pattern. I've heard they work. May not run just the same but should get you through till you can lay hands on another Extech head. |
Originally Posted by PinoyCali
(Post 5887926)
I have no luck finding cooling head.( out of stock) .:( ....... Anybody using aftermarket or diff. brand cooling head?...
Thanks.. |
Originally Posted by Tim Dougherty
(Post 5888931)
I have a used one that the extech is worn off $10.00 if you want it includes shipping.
PM me please |
Originally Posted by PinoyCali
(Post 5888939)
Yes how can i pay you sir?
PM me please |
Originally Posted by PinoyCali
(Post 5888939)
Yes how can i pay you sir?
PM me please |
Originally Posted by Tim Dougherty
(Post 5887775)
I think your motor is not broke in yet your probably getting close.It is typical for this motor to run erratic until it is broke in. The factory settings pertain to using Trinity Platinum 30% fuel so running Byrons they will be a little different but not a bad place to start. leave your high speed fat for now and work on the bottom to were you can idle and hit the throttle and it will still blow smoke but takes off and then flattens out from being too rich on top. Don't try to set your setting on the box you need to put the motor under a load to tune and then you can dial in at your track. After you run around get a little temp in it you should start with your bottom end first then work on the top. When the motor brakes in totally it will richen up and you will need to re tune and then it will hold a tune. Remember this motor .21 should not need to ever get above 200 deg f my motors run around 180-190 all the time don't try to tune by temp tune by sound you should always see a little smoke all the times. Motors that flame out when you hit the throttle normally are too lean not enough fuel for the motor it will flame out and too rich will fuel wash the plug and makes crackling noise and then stalls. Hope this will be some help.
[QUOTE=smracer31;5888072]I know it was mentioned but have you checked the carb boot yet? pull the motor out and take the boot off and pull it over your finger and inspect. if you have a small pinhole tear/hole the motor does exactly what your describing. Without taking the boot off its hard to check for leaks, and when you put it back on seal it up with some engine sealant on both ends of the boot and zip tie the big end. Yes I have pulled the engine out and inspected the carb boot but I have not pulled the boot off the carb. I will have to try this. Is it easy to get off and then back on. I am guessing to remove it I will have to pull the ball linkage off to slip the boot off or is there another way? |
Originally Posted by dishsoap
(Post 5890815)
Tim I hear you and thanks for tyring to help. The sound that I am hearing can be heard from 50 ft away. The sound I am hearing now matter where the needles are rich or lean is the same. Its not high pitch or screacthing but more like its going to break. its a very quick eractic/vibrating almost like when your driving a stick shift real car and you go from 5th gear down to 2nd at 50mph but stuttering fat off throttle. Shit this is getting hard to explain. The only other way I can articulate it like when you hit your anti lock brakes and you hear the computer take over pumpming the breaks really fast but with bog and fat sound that pitches high then low extremley fast and very eratic.
Also does it seem to vibrate like crazy? Hope this helps! |
Originally Posted by Team Chambers
(Post 5891644)
That sound is unfortunately familiar...If it is what I think it is you pop open the back plate and look the crank pin and rod..the crank pin may be worn out. As I have asked before does it seem to have a lot of slop at TDC. By looking at the rod / pin you may see a gap showing wear. I hope this is not the case but from your description.....
Also does it seem to vibrate like crazy? Hope this helps! |
What pipe are you running? I have 2 extech bigboy's with broken off baffles. Had me pulling my hair out twisting the needles all over the place with no changes.
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Originally Posted by slaytanic
(Post 5892208)
What pipe are you running? I have 2 extech bigboy's with broken off baffles. Had me pulling my hair out twisting the needles all over the place with no changes.
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Not using a big boy.
I can't recall the modle right now but its the pipe that comes with the engine and the clutch in one box. The nitro box is what I purchased. I am not sure if this pipe has a bafle or not. |
They all have baffles.
Pull the pipe off, give it a shake and see if it has a rattle to it. |
Originally Posted by 1armed1
(Post 5893754)
They all have baffles.
Pull the pipe off, give it a shake and see if it has a rattle to it. |
ok, now I know :blush:
But.... The sirio pipes do. He bought the power pack so it is most likely the 2013, those have baffles. |
No harm, no foul! You want to know how I found out..I bought a JP3 and I looked inside, and saw no baffle, so I called Ofna and said what the Hell?? My pipe has no baffle! send me another one! That was when I got educated that not all pipes have baffles:blush:
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[QUOTE=PinoyCali;5884602]
Originally Posted by cjtamu
(Post 5884249)
You can PM him here, or go to the Epic website and see if you can contact him there. Don't know if their e-mail addys have changed with the move and merger.
Just send e-mail and pm. Hope he will answer back. I will try OS or NR cooling head. :confused: If extech is sirio base can I use the regular sirio green cooling head? |
Originally Posted by dishsoap
(Post 5893013)
Not using a big boy.
I can't recall the modle right now but its the pipe that comes with the engine and the clutch in one box. The nitro box is what I purchased. I am not sure if this pipe has a bafle or not. |
Originally Posted by bottomline2000
(Post 5894681)
what plug are you running in this motor. you may have mentioned it already.
P4 |
Originally Posted by Tim Dougherty
(Post 5889031)
You have another PM.
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