Any body have a crank part number that would be interchangable?:confused:

Amain has most of their extech .21 parts on sale.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php/cPath/1_68_998

Hello guys...

Wich one you recommend for truggy .24 pre-run or .24 fm?

where can youfind this engine?

Thanks..

First off i would like to say i like my .24 alot. BUT saturday while leading the a-main in my states series race, the main bearing came apart and a piece of it got stuck between my rod and crank case and locked down the motor. Has anyone else had this problem? what size is the bearing? :confused:

Can i use a carb from a rb for my extech .21

Fully modded .24 has been the bomb for me.:nod: and pre-run is the race prep you still need to brake it in it will come with instructions. Stick with trinity 30% fuel. I keep hearing about problems with people using other brands of fuel. IMHO You should be able to get one in a couple weeks.

:nod::nod::nod:
I just installed one on my FM .21 w/ 6.5 insert.

It tuned out nicely, still has great top end.
We'll see what kind of economy it gets this weekend.:sneaky:

anybody have the epoxy come out of the crank in to the crankcase on theirs? It just happened to me this weekend. Didn't do any damage cause it's like a soft silicone, but it plugged up my ports. Not sure if I can just clean it out and put it back together without the snot in there or is it a necessity for efficient operation?

Greg was that a fully modded? if so its part of the mod it helps out to flow better. I've heard a few that have had the same thing happen as long as you have nothing damaged you can re-fill it with devcon or JB weld in place. Make sure you clean it real good before hand.

Another great weekend for the Trinity ExTech2 powered losi. We had 29 entries in the buggy class, and my ExTech never missed a beat. Ran the 30min A with only two stops:D, sure helped out with my 3rd place finish. Had a bad start getting booted off the track off the back side and crossed the line dead last almost a lap down after lap one. Put my head down and drove hard, lots of power and smooth as silk to boot!! Worked up to 2nd place but made a few bobbles late hat knocked me back to 3rd, GREAT motor Trinity!!:nod:

It's not the full mod, just the pre-run race tuned model(extech 2). Should I still refill it with the JB weld?

I have a extech I EB mods
and need to change the rod
is the one of the extech II the same ???

Make sure it's really clean no oil residue and try to duplicate what was there and give it ample time to cure. You can leave it out it will run I don't know what you will lose performance wise. That's what Chad said.

I am looking forward to next week and Trinity / Epic opening it's doors for business again.

I expect Chad will provide the same excellent customer service as he has in the past.

Anyone know if the Ex-Tech Line will continue???

I talked to Chad today and he is back to breaking in motors this week, and I think the phone line will be up some time this week also. Look on the Epic site for the phone number this week.

the epoxy ramp in the crank window dose do a tiny bit for performance..nothing you would notice...your better off leaving it out..if the JB comes dis lodged...well it wont be soft like the silicone epoxy they use..if your are using after run oil this is probably why it became dislodged..

Just empty the tank and burn off any access nitro in the engine

Good point right on bro..... that's why I don't use after run oil.;)

Any thoughts on this. I posted this in my local thread and I have some direction to go on. Its brand new and has about 6 tanks through it. It was the nitro box edition .21 extech.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Falconie
if it's a Trinity x-tech that is a Sirio, every one I know runs the P3 plug.

I guess I will have to try a P3. I have used a P4 from the get go and during break in, ran it last week on the track with no problems until now.

Jaz 130 off the box but I have gotten it 200 see below.


Right from the starter box about 130, however during the A main I was doing short laps aroung the oval before the start so temps got up to 200 before start. Once I started and ran the track it died.

Let me give everyone a play by play before I started having problems leading up to each race.

During practice I got about 5 laps in and it ran perfect. Cleared the tripple and ran smooth no problems. It handled awesome. I was excited because of how planted and smooth it was. The powerband was also perfect.

1st race. I got 3 laps in and it died. When I pulled it off the track I had lost 2hex bolts from the bottom on the motor mounts. This caused it to stop due to the fly wheel bouncing around. I also found that the clutch nut had came loose. I had a bad collet on the clutch and replaced it. Put everything back together and it ran perfect on the box.

2nd race. 2 laps in and it died. Here is where I started having the plug problems where it would only staying running until I pulled the ignitor off and then it died. Went and bought 2 new plugs. 1st new plug same problems, it was a bad new plug. Brian gave me one of his plugs to use. We got the engine tuned and ran perferct on the box. Tuned it up and it was performing great in the pit.

3rd race. 20 ft in and it died. We had a 15 min A Main so I pulled if off the track restarted it, idle was perfect low, mid, and high on the box was perfect. Put it back on the track without punching it 10 ft in died. Pulled back off and replaced the glow plug yet again with a new plug. Everything was perfect on the box. Got about 20 ft again and it died, I stayed in the pit for 5 mintues to make sure everything was ok before I put it back on the track. I had no problems during that 5 mintue period in the pit unitl I put it on the track.

After the race. I was so pissed I wanted to try and figure out what was going on. Without adjusting anything I fired it up and let it sit on the box for 10 to 15 min. During this time the idle yet again was perfect. I would let it load up and then I would hit the throttle no problems. I hit the throttle 1/4 in 1/2 in and nearly all the way in short bursts. No problems. So then I pulled off the box and though maybe it is only flamming out when I bump something which would tell me that if it turned off then it had to be a clutch bearing or something is making the clutch bind. While it was running I dropped in the floor a few times front tires first, all four tires and then the back tires. Nothing happend it stayed running. I then drove it on the cement back and forth a few feet and nothing was wrong. It was running perfrect. They were closing down and I turned it off myself.

This is why I am so confused as to what it happening. I know its hard for everyone to diagnose over a phone call or in these forums without being there.

deffinatly odd..i was having some serious engine tuning issues my self satruday...and one was with my extech .24 in my truggy and the other was witha O.S. speed engine in my buggy (so it didnt matter what motor it was)...It was like 90 and humid..and they were jsut flaming and running like crap (alot of other people had issues saturday too). .so i finnaly just cranked the high and low needles open to rich and worked em in a hair at a time .....after about 20 minutes both were running fine...

But it deffinatly sounds like you had a fat bottom end needle setting...if you let it sit for 10 seconds dose it take off smooth from a dead stop or blow out alot of smoke...you also said your extech was running around 200...thats aweful cool..mine runs 260-265 on trinity platinum still showing great signs of smoke at WOT..
Weather and humidity plays a big role with tiny 2 stroke motors

is the rod in the ebmods extech I
the same as the extech II ?????

where to order parts on-line for the extech I ??

Dish Soap.

For perfect tuning read this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...g-bible-3.html

As far as temps the Ex-Techs seem to run around 185 to 200 at race tune.

W
How does the rod/crank feel at TDC. sounds like that mey be where the problem is.

Good luck to you. Remeber on the box = no load which means it is easier to unload a fat bottom. On the ground under a load it will flame if to fat on the LSN..

+ 1 on the rod/ crank problem. If there is too much play in either it usually runs fine untill you get the rpm's up or put it under a heavy load. I would pull the backplate & inspect. Hope that helps.

You can order from AMainhobbies.com. You can call and talk to one there tech guys and they can help you. If not next week Team Epic should be open for business and you can call Chad Phillips.

Go to http://www.teamepiconline.com/

Dude 260-265 deg f your running that thing way to lean some where I've never exceeded 230 deg f and the motor was too much in my opinion. Dustin you should check your bottom end. Trinity .24 should run 220-230 and .21 should run 180-200 deg f.

the thing we goota keep in mind with "temp tuning" is my gun most likely reads 15-20 different then yours and so on..Put it this way if i richend up to were it ran 220 on my temp gun..it wouldnt move...i still get lots of smoke on WOT and a good puff from a dead stop..so im sure its getting fuel....i may be wrong though....we'll see if the piston has a nuclear melt down...then you can tell me "i told you so" LOL~~!!:lol: But so far after it cools down the piston will still get stuck in the sleeve at TDC..so im sure its fine

My speed came off a 260 too and that usually runs 230ish must of jsut been the weather:confused:


thats oddly cool...almsot seems to cool to be good on the engine...but i am new to the extech..so far i love it though

What other carb can i use on extech .21

[QUOTE=yoshgixxer;5861005]the thing we goota keep in mind with "temp tuning" is my gun most likely reads 15-20 different then yours and so on..Put it this way if i richend up to were it ran 220 on my temp gun..it wouldnt move...i still get lots of smoke on WOT and a good puff from a dead stop..so im sure its getting fuel....i may be wrong though....we'll see if the piston has a nuclear melt down...then you can tell me "i told you so" LOL~~!!:lol: But so far after it cools down the piston will still get stuck in the sleeve at TDC..so im sure its fine

My speed came off a 260 too and that usually runs 230ish must of jsut been the weather:confused:




]
OS or Novarossi Dynamite they run much hotter then Extech and GRP they are closer in temps. 21 runs much cooler than it's big brother .24.
My buggy ran it's balls off 20 min main 184 deg. Truggy was running closer to 220 ish same thing was a rocket. Hey Dustin save some of that rc money and buy Excergen temp gun last you for life.

What plug are you using in the .24? My first .21 little over 6 gallons thru it you tell me if it's running to cool. I put it away as a back-up just in case and still has plenty of pinch. I don't think it has ever seen 200 deg f.

Great advice. I think I have narrowed it down to 3 different things.

1. The low speed needle to fat. I will start with this one leaning it 1 hour at a time.

2. Drivetrain problem. Bearing or gears may be bad causing it to bind. I would have to pull all 3 diffs to inspect.

3. Clutch shoes grabbing on the fly wheel or rubbing the bell. Its brand new so I don't think this is it but will check as a last resort.

Does it make sense that it ran perfect last week at the settings I have right now, however due to the engine starting to break in even more now those settings are to fat on the LSN. If this is the case I would bet that this is the prob.

A few things to look for that I've seen....
1. A broken clutch spring hanging up the bell under a load.
2. If you're using the Extech bat pipe, the internals can fail and clog the pipe.
3. The ramped silicone epoxy/filler in the crankshaft can become dislodged and clog up the ports, causing the irregular running condition. This is exactly what just happened to me this weekend with symptoms very similar to yours.
Good luck....

My 21 comes off from a 30 min a main saturday night at 168 degrees and getting 10 minutes on a tank of fuel..got to love that!!

Nice what are ur settings on your needles

where can i get an extech 21 engine coz i am in need of a good engine that i dont have to break in and what pipe to use
thanks

A GRP carb will work and a Novarossi for .21

I need a new head button for my Race Prepped .21 and A-main is out. Anyone know which of the Siro or Werks turbo head buttons will work?

Cool thanx so basicially i can use the carb off my RB

what size is the inner bearing on the .24?? tks

Neither i have tried that before and you will never get the right tune on the engine. I dont care what anybody tells you. Id call Trinity to see if they have any instock

I was tearing down my Extech .21 to replace the connecting rod and noticed there were no head shims. Is that normal? My RB came with 2 from the factory. I was thinking about using my RB carb as well. Any feed back as to how it performs as well as base line needle settings? As far as Dishsoap’s issues are concerned, mine acted the some way and it turned out to be a worn out connecting rod where it connected to the crankshaft pin.

Rick

Hello Rick,

Is this the extech 1 or 2?

Pay close attention on bottom of the cooling head the shims are silver.