Thanks for the Update Tim.


Todd
Team Trinity / Epic!

Do you know when we should re-submit our applications?

I just back ordered the tuned II version of the motor. Are a lot of you guys experiencing issues with longevity of the motor due to how ed breaks the motors in?

Thanks for the help.

I Have 4 idle tanks through my new extech engine so far. It has not hit the ground yet. What I like the most so far was on the first bump on the starter box it fired up right away.

Going to start running some figure eights for a couple of tanks before I hit the track. Any advice on tunning?????????

ED is no longer breaking in the motors for Trinity. That relationship ended a couple of months back and all of those motors are gone. If EB Mods did break in your motor it will have his initials on the engine mount.

As far as tuning just use the stock settings on the flyer that should have come with the motor.

Flush on top and 1/2 turn in from flush on bottom is a good start point. 1/2 hour moves make a big difffference.

Thanks for your help.

was wondering if anyone knows if you can put the fully modded piston and sleeve in the race prep version? I need to buy a new piston and sleeve and can only find the modded and standard ones

thanks darrell

Darrell,

My understanding is the Modded version of the PRS is " matched" to the crank timing on the modded crank.

Without knowing for sure I would buy the standard PRS.

Guys, I have a full EB mod version 1 .21.

I have the trinity 2013 and a 053.

Is there a better pipe for fuel economy?

The 2013 makes this thing just plain stupid fast but ok on economy,
The 053 gets a little better runtime with decent power.

What kind of runtimes are you guys seeing in buggy?

Thanks
Dayton

No flyer came with my engine. I got the nitro box that came with the clutch and the pipe. Zero directions nor a flyer came with it. I heard that these engins tune differently than other.

I have been trying to find some info for tunning on these and cant find anything. Any help on tunning would be awesome.

1Armed1- A lot of guys are very happy with the 2056 or "Bat" pipe. Might be worth looking into. I have been running it on a few other engines lately and have been pleased. In the past, I ran the 2057 on the ET RP mill, with a 7mm restrictor. I could push 9 mins on a med to lrg size track. The 57 is slightly softer on bottom than the 13, but opens up on top more. It is also more quiet.

Tuning is not a huge mistery! You are adjusting a ratio. There is a prime amount of both air/fuel to make good power. The ex-tech cylinder is no different than any other from that stand point. Its hard to explain in a forum, but the concept is so simple. Fuel is needed to cool things down, but you dont want it so cool that its not burning all of it. If its fat, it can't burn all the fuel on combustion so it flogs it out the pipe, and its lazy. Lean on the other hand lets it get really hot, builds a huge fire, but it makes insane power, for just a second, there is the fine line. Keep runnin it lean it will eventually distort, gaul, melt the cylinder,piston, plug what have you.

I cant tell you, set your screw here, and here and it will be perfect. Elevation matters, type of pipe, fuel used, ambient temps, aif filter cleanliness, and even moisture in the air effects the tune.

Temps are good way to play it safe, but watch your smoke stream, feel the pull and you will dial it in, if it is just extremely blippy with no smoke, she be lean. Also, tuning the bottom end needle helps you off the snap, so you may not have to turn the top, and vise versa. Its a balancing act, but its not a hard one.

one thing to keep in mind, if you tune it to be nice and crisp as soon as you fire it up, its gonna go lean on ya as it warms up. Dont turn screws until you have made a lap or two, then start tweakin, small turns at a time.

MY OPINON, NOT CLAIMING TO KNOW ANYTHING!!!

One other thing, the BAT pipe from ex-tech, watch for the internal baffle coming lose, heard of it, and seen it happen MANY times. Seen it once, but heard SEVERAL folx with the issue.

will we be seeing more of these engines on the shelves soon i really want to try one

2 .24 engines for sale
 

I've got 2 .24 truggy engines I want to sell. P.M me your email if you want pictures (having photobucket problems) one is almost new with 30 min run time. the other has maybe 1.5 gals though it. to be honest im tired of keepin them tuned. I dont think anything is wrong with the motors I'm just not able to keep them running right.

Were these motors pre-broken in? Do they Have Eb Mods etched into the crank case?

As far as tuning goes when I tune at home I always need to richen up the bottom end out on the track. My bottom end is about 1 turn out from flush. Opposite of what the spec sheet says but it works! Run a p4 plug with 30% and it should run at about 190 to 205 degrees.

PM me your prices.

Thanks

Guys, 3 failed bigboy pipes at the track this weekend. Same issue with the internal baffle breaking loose. I have one from the very fist units that Trinty got and it is fine. All the new ones seem too be breaking. This caused us absolute fits chasing a tune. Not realizing it was in the pipe. Keep an eye on it and save yourself a headache.

Ive had 2 fail, got one to try out, second time out it broke. Got the replacement, first time out it broke, the pipes are JUNK! not to mention the eb mods extech i have. Trinity, or ugh.. team epic will be getting one nasty letter from me along with all my broken trinity products :flaming::flaming::flaming:

EDIT: I got around to uploading the pictures from my camera.(Note: this engine is the eb mods pre-run in motor and has 1 1/4 gallons on it)

Notice the taper on the crank pin
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...1/DSC_3972.jpg

This is the amount of slop caused by it(my finger is holding it against the pin so its on the pin straight, no trick photography)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...1/DSC_3971.jpg

random picture of the block with eds engraving
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...1/DSC_3961.jpg

somewhere i have a picture of the piston almost going through the top of the sleeve, ill have to find it.

Ouch!!!! I to have sent in a motor from EB with major rod slop! I expect Chad will take care of it for me. It was definately the crank pin wearing away as I put a new rod in and it had the same slop.

I have another .24 broke in by Chad. It has 1.5 gallons and runs great! I hope to get 6 to 8 gallons from it.

guys, I have been running a Etech .21 for a couple months and its FAST - what I found is you need to take the time to break it in... this is what I found to work the best -

Break it in at 175' and then let cool....idle it.. just in the car or on the bench if you can - wrap tin foil around it to keep in the heat and add heat from heat gun if needed... to get the temp up -

Do this about 6-7 times and let it cool in between runs -

Then run it in the driveway slow... and just popping it a couple times here and there.. with 2-3 tanks..

Tuneing... I struggled with this as well but after some coaching from CHAD - found it to be easy - the trick that works great is starting to tune from the bottom end first then move to top end.. if you get the bottom end real crisp, it seems to make the top end that much easier - once set.... it ROCKS -

Some tweaking at the track, depending on the weather

Running Jammin 3 pipe - good bottom and Mid.....

Just takes some time - once you get it good.. it only becomes great -

Anyone know which sirio rod is the same as the trinity rod for the .21?

I had the same problem with my .24. I saw the slop and thought it was the rod originally and ordered a new one. When i put the new rod in it didn't solve the problem and that is when I noticed that the crank pin was rounded. I talked to Chad with trinity and he said that the EB motors were broken in way to fast and that caused both the premature wear on the rod and crank pin. Lets just say that Chad is a stands behind the Trinity products and now my motor is SCREAMING again.

On another note I have a LOSI truggy and due to the carb being so close to the center diff has anyone developed a "notchy" effect on their carb from it not pulling and returning perfectly square. I am now in the market for a new carb but can't find one.

Anyone??

Losi
 

dhopkins,

I spoke to Chad and the losi carb issue came up. (I don't run Losi), He said a lot of the team drivers where grinding some of the center diff top plate off to make room for the slide. Just FYI.

Yep. You need to be sure that you pull the carb open as straight as possible. +1 on grinding the center diff mount. Also, if you run a TRS you need to be sure that it sits down low so that it pulls straight back on the carb slide, rather then pulling up at an angle. I was working on mine a couple weeks ago and forgot to push the TRS back into place, and now I have a carb with a burr on it again LOL. You can buff it out or send to Chad. But, with them moving it will probably be a bit before yo get it back. Below is what he told me on how to debur:

"dremel the tip of the idle screw with mothers polish using a buffing wheel. I also polish the grove it rides in.. if you dont want to do it.. send it to me and i will do it.."

Extech Carb
 

Guys,

Thanks for the tips. I will try both grinding the center diff housing and polishing the carb slide at the idle screw groove.

The buffing works great. Mine was smooth like butter till I FUBAR'd it again being a dummy. :eek:

What address do i send my stuff to? I know they are in the process of moving, i don't want to send my stuff to florida and have nobody around to accept the delivery.

BAD INFO
 

ok, this is getting real old. And I can't blame anyone except for Chad. As he is telling people this BS. So what I have done is forwarded this thread to the owner of Star Motor, Andrea Rossi, and asked him in email, If this was something he told Chad or something he diagnosed himself. And he replied that he has never said anything negative about me or my process.

SO here's the fact about the crank pictured above, it's wasn't caused from "Quick Break-In" but from the crankshaft moving in and out during running.

I hope this helps. Now please stop spreading false diagnoses, as the facts prove engines that I've broken in last longer, and make more power..... Chad knows this because he ran my OS V-Specs for years prior with great results because I would break them in for him. This was the reasoning for me to offer this service on the ExTech engines.

So the only problem I've had is from Chad putting this into peoples heads. So now with the online post multiple people saying that Chad has told them this. Now I have proof of malicious and deviant intentions to ruin my business because I Left Trinity,, REMEMBER I DIDN"T GET FIRED BUT I QUIT, I told them to hit the road.

I hold no hard feelings to anyone who has been given this bad info. But please stop spreading lies.... PLEASE!

Im confused as to how the crankshaft would move in and out during running:confused:doesn't the flywheel and collet when tightened down keep it from doing this? or is it a problem with the motor that allows it to move?

The flywheel will clinch down where the collet sets. It will not slide back and take up any slop automatically when you tighten down the nut. You have to make sure the crank is pulled forward all the way when mounting your flywheel.

This is exactly how i mount my flywheel, i tug the crank forward while sliding the collect down to ensure there is no play, so im still baffled as to why my crank has worn like this and has lost its compression after 1.25 gallons.

btw, Im not, nor ever have said you were to blame ed, im simply stating the issues im having with my motor. :tire:

I have a non modified Trinity Etech .21. The connecting rod has gone bad with around 1.5 gallons on it. A connecting rod is no where to be found. And with Trinity moving to Florida, the situation is even more challenging! Is there another brand connecting rod that will work? I know I did not spend tons of money, but I would think I would get more than a gallon and a half. Is Trinity getting out of the nitro engine business? I have noticed some hobby shop running sales on Trinity nitro parts. Blowing out inventory?

Rick

The Sirio and werks rod ending in part number 070012 is a direct fit.
I just installed a new one in mine.
Amain has them in stock and there was a guy on here in the forsale thread that had one.
Do a search in the sale forums for " sirio rod"

later
Dayton

Thanks Dayton! Would this be the same case for other engine parts; crank, piston, wrist pin, etc.?

I found out which rod was needed by speaking with Ed (eb mods), he told me to get the evo IV rod.
I imagine the rest of the parts are the same or atleast will interchange.

Ed or someone from Sirio could give you a better answer.

Will a carb from a Sirio work on a EXTEC?

Same carb :nod:

Thanks;)

Trinity Extech .21
 

I was wondering what carb can you use on the trinity .21

extech 24 and big boy pipe
 

I'm having a couple of issues myself. I have the FM 24 and the heat sink broke at the base and came off. the baffling in my pipe is loose also so it make a nice rattling sound. I knew the exhaust note kept changing. I got one of the first ones out and thought this was an isolated issue. I for one would be glad to hear when Trinity/Epic is back up and running.

just a fyi, a Nova P5 heatsink fits. I haven't had a chance to temp the motor, but it seems to run well.

[QUOTE=bottomline2000;5824833] I for one would be glad to hear when Trinity/Epic is back up and running.

QUOTE]

Chad said June 1 at the earliest.