FYI 185-190 is a perfect temp for this motor I wouldn't touch a thing.

EXTECH I AND EXTECH II
 

DO ALL THE EXTECH II HAVE A NUMBER TWO ON THE TOP OF THE HEAD? I RECENTLY GOT .24 PREP FROM A-MAIN THAT SHOULD BE A II BUT DOES NOT HAVE THE NUMBER TWO ON TOP AND I NOTICED ON SUM PICS I HAVE SEAN THERE IS THE #2 NEXT TO THE EXTECH ENGRAVED ON THE TOP THANKS,

dont worry about the engraving on the head.. all the engines Amain has are the lastest and greatest... :nod:

Thanks,:nod:

97T vs p4 plugs in FM 24
 

well I have ran odo 97t plugs in my motor all winter and they seemed to work. as it got warmer i couldn't get the tune right no matter what i did.
the motor would run rich and have a pop on top end or would develop a bog down low if leaned out.

I switched to an OS p4 plug without changing the tune and I could barely get around the track and this was with a race tune on the 97T plugs. after leaning it out the motor ran like the beast it is. spinning wheels down the straight is not a problem.

The ODO 97T is definitely hotter than the P4 and I feel the p4 or p3 are the perfect plugs for the motor.

I've had guys come up and take pictures of my truck and ask what the hell kind of motor I'm running. It's a beast and hard to beat in the power to fuel mileage dept.

I let one guy drive it and he said it just felt like too much power and the rpms climbed too fast for him....not a problem for me haha!! You do have to hold back when racing or you start going slower cause it will spin the tires like crazy if you pull too much trigger...just what I wanted.

Did I say thanks to Chad again. His support made this purchase happen and I don't regret it one bit!!

Shims for the first version .24 Ex Tech EB pre-race engine
 

Chad Phillips or anyone else who knows the answer.I have a first version EB pre-race .24 Ex Tech engine that came with no shims. I bought a new version II .24 Ex Tech pre-race engine from Amain Hobbies that came with (1) silver 0.006 thousands/0.15 mm shim installed. I bought the version I EB engine that was disassembled by the previous owner and I want to make sure I have it shimmed correctly. Does anyone know if the first version .24 Ex Tech EB Mods pre-race engine come with a 0.006 shim from Ed? I hope that made sense. Thank you in advance.Scott S.

I don't know the answer, but I believe I saw Chad answer that same question not long ago. You might go back a few pages and see.

there should be 2 silver shims for the .24 engine.. if your not careful, you can miss the shims on the head button because they blend in so well.. :)

Silver Head Shims for the Ex Tech .24 engine
 

I checked with a razer blade on both engines. The Ex Tech version II .24 was easy to dislodge the (1) silver shim. I will double check tonight when I get home.

Chad, is there any chance I can purchase a couple of .24 head shim packs from you? A-Main Hobbies doesn't list them on their website and I performed a Google search with no luck. I can send you a PayPal payment if you can sell me a couple of packs. Thanks.

Scott S.

Trinity extech.21 tuned
 

Does anybody know if the .21 tuned already comes shimmed for 30%

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...tntwrap001.jpg
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...tntwrap003.jpg
Loving the Ex Tech power!!

I had my first outing with the new Trinity power and had a great day, motor was not what I had planed on it being I think that I had some tuning issues and still not sure if it is spot on. But man even with it not in tune the way I would have liked it this thing is a great engine. Ran a 10min final with a pit @ 8 min and only took a very little splash my pit guy said. Cant wait till the next race to see if I can get it tuned a little better.

If anyone has any ideas on what to do here is what I was running

RC8
.21FM w/P4 plug, had a OD 97 and that thing worked like crap to me
Alum clutch shoes (factory ones)
.9 springs
16t CB
Trinity Big boy pipe
10 min race came off the track at 199F

Didn't seem like I had any top end to it

Trinity big boy pipe
 

I here good stuff about this pipe and also the 086 pipe also what is the best pipe for the .21 tuned extech

The 086 makes mad power and scary top end. The big boy will smooth it out a bit and get much better runtime.

Trinity .21 tuned
 

Do u know if the .21 pre run comes shimmed for 30%

does anyone know what the stock needle settings are for the .24 extech?

EX TECH Fully modded 2 .21
 

Just thought I would post this on here. I have a Fully Modded EXTECH 2 .21 for sale. Motor has 12 tanks of fuel through it. I can send pictures to whoever is interested. I only deal through paypal. Willing to take $200 shipped for the motor.

If interested just shoot me an e-mail at [email protected]

THanks, Nick

Question

I purchased the .21 extech power box for the losi. How do I know if it is the full modded version? It is part number #40200. I havent opened it yet.

Is this one fully modded? Retail was $650.00

Has anyone experimented with Nova carbs on their ET mills? Like an idiot, being stupid, I damaged my stock carb. The engine is well broken in, looking for a guestimate of sorts for the needles. Thx :)


After fiddling a bit, got it running good now. I should be able to get some practice in tomorrow to put a race tune on. Thx anyway though :)

Chad Phillips
 

Anyone know how to get a hold of Chad Phillips?

LMK

THX

They might be in the process of moving right now, just give him some time. I think you all know how aggravating the move is going to be for a little while. I'm sure he will pop in sometime.

I use a nova carb on my werks b7 sirio based engine same as the extech and It works great. I like the the nova carb better then the sirio carb

what does it mean when people say bottom end and top end when refering to engines?

'bottom' as in low rpm

'top' as in high rpm

good bottom end = high low rpm torq (get up and go)

good top end = high high rpm torq (fast top speed)

are these no longer available through a-main????

I am having issues with the extech fitting my 2.0 roller. After the everything is lined up motor mounts, gear mesh, etc the carb slide boot is smashed up against the center diff top plate.

I have been looking at if for hours and cannot figure it. I am pissed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ex tech eb mod version.
 

have ? for u all. i have the eb mod version. i ran maybe 3 gallons. i think the compression is low but not sure for this motor. i cant turn it over by hand with a lil force. i run nova motors though and i cant do that with them. motor runs like bat out of hell no problems. was thinking it needs a pinch since it feeels like this. are these high compresion motors? just trying this one as a experament. thanks for any insight. also if u all say it needs a pinch or new p/s will the version 2 p/s combo fit the version 1. if somone could pm that would be great. get busyy and forget to check form talk thanks

Chad will be back on within the next 2 weeks or so. I think the move is a major pain for them but it should better serve the customers once the transition is complete.

Dishsoap---You have to shave the center diff mount a little bit in order for the carb not to rub. This isn't a X-Tech specific issue but several motors from other manufacturers do this as well on the Losi buggy's and Truggy's.

iF YOU TURN THE CARB TOWRDS THE BACK OF THE CAR A LITTLE YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY PROLBEMS.;)

anyone else notice that amain doesnt even list these engines anymore

Interesting, Maybe it has to do with the move and name change?? Here is a letter from the owner: http://www.teamtrinity.com/Moving%20letter%20Web.pdf

To the person with the LOSI 2.0,, I spoke to Chad about that and he said a lot of guys Dremel off a bit of the top plate on the center diff. If I remember correctly the bottom of the carb has a rectangular opening shaped to the crank. By turning it it could mess up the flow....

I must say i don't think i will buy another trinity product ever again.

Let me share my experience, i originally bought an EB Mods pre-run in Ex-tech 1st gen back in June of last year when the engine was first released. The first time i ran the engine in practice it was fine, it didn't make great power as it was still new and running rich which was perfectly normal, i had noticed some fuel leaking from the carb but decided as i had still been running it rather rich that there was a lot of unburnt fuel flying around and chalked it up to that. The second time i ran the engine was a race weekend, the trinity boys in socal were at the track and i pointed out the carb boot leaking, and they spoke to chad about the issue over the phone that weekend and advised to just seal the carb to fix the problem. They also helped me get a good tune on the engine for the race, it was still running rich as it had less than a gallon on the engine for the race weekend and was still getting past the metal pinch. After the race i practiced a bit before the track closed, i had put roughly a gallon on the engine including the fuel used for break in performed by eb mods. This was the end of the season so everything was lubed up to store for the next few months. Fast forward to last month, i get the engine out and practice with it before our first race, the engine was running decently and making decent power, temps were averaging right around 190. At the end of the practice day the engine didn't want to hold its idle and decided it must have an air-leak somewhere. I went through and sealed the engine making sure there were no air leaks and took the car out the following weekend for our race. Me and 2 others were trying to tune the engine and could not get it running right, the motor kept dying, fouled a plug and would not idle properly. I threw in an old go-tech engine to finish the day up and put the ex-tech away. I recently got around to taking the motor apart to inspect it with the intention of replacing the front and rear bearings hoping the engines sporadic behavior was due to an air leak. I was however very wrong. I put some after run oil on the top of the piston with it at tdc, immediately a few air bubbles started to form between the sleeve and piston, i put the head back on to check the compression of the engine by turning over the crank, as well as holding the crank and seeing if the engine would hold its weight, lets just say it didnt, the compression is practically gone in the engine after ONLY 1.25 gallons. I began taking the rest of the motor apart and the rod pin on the crank is badly worn, there is massive amounts of play where the con rod connects to the crank. The con rod shows very little signs of wear and looks very good, but i can visually see the crank pin clearly worn down. Another thing i want to point out is for the new season i ordered a trinity big boy pipe as i heard good things, the first time out the inner venturi on the pipe broke and was rattling around. trinity replaced the pipe for free and the first time running the replacement on another engine some metal shavings came loose in the pipe and clogged up my air line.

I have several motors that have lasted well over 15 gallons, i always pre-heat my engines before running them as to not stress the con rod and always take very good care of them to ensure i get proper life, but 1.25 gallons is just ridiculous. :flaming:

SMRACER,

I believe the problem is due to the break in procedure by EBMods. I was told he does the Full throttle super rich version of a breakin which is tough on the Rod / pin.

I have about 3.5 gallons on mine that I have sent back to Chad @ Trinity and we will see what they do. Before I sent it back I put a new rod in the motor and it still had way to much slop at tdc.

I have another .24 broken in by Chad and it runs flawlessly. Only one gallon on it but no problems thus far. It is one bad azzz motor.

All in all I think I will break in my motors myself from now on.

GLTY

Thanks for the info! let me know what chad can do for you, there customer service so far has been top notch, i am yet to be impressed by their products however.

Man if that is the case, yeah, i could def. see how the rod and pin would be worn!! Sheesh!! Thats WAY to much on those danty little pins and rods.

My opinion, idle that thing as much as you can stand it, do it at nite when u are just bored and cant drive it anyway. Idle 10 tanks if you can. The longer you can run that dude without loading it, the better the shape of the hole is gonna be and the less amount of stress you are going to cause. Then once you get it running, keep the RPMs out of it, keep the temps down, and the dirt out, should get plenty of use out of it. Keep the RPMs out, i mean gear the car for your conditions so that its not on the max RPMs 10 feet from take off. MY OPINIONS!!!!! dont stone me here!!

Best method i believe is the heat cycling method for a half gallon, it puts very little stress on the rod/piston/sleeve, this is how i do all my engines and always last a very long time!:tire::tire:

yeah, forgot to mention let cool between tanks. Yes heat cycling def. helps as well. I like the idea of pre heating too. Makes since to get the hole as big as possible before tryin to slam the piston up there. I also agree with the idea of putting the piston at bdc after running so that it doesnt get pinched up in the top.

Also, will the EX-Tech be available again soon??? My buddy Team Chambers, my sister, and my dad all run these at our local track, such awesome powerplants, im in the process of regrouping and getting new equipment and really had my heart set on these .24 ex-techs. Tons of grunt down low and really are nice pieces. Don't see them on the net ne where??

I should be hearing from Chad this week...I hope.

I received a message from Ernie Provetti, Owner of Trinity and he said he would be talking with Chad about my motor issue sometime this week.

I'll find out about the status of Getting more .24's, when I talk to Chad...

Thanx Todd!

Just curious, dunno how long it will be at this point, but I know its what i want when the time comes!

Trinity will officially open june 1st. So anyone having issues, it would be wise to give them a call around then. First day open will probably be busy so sometime during the week should work. Unfortunately any parts or service is unlikely now until they get settled in.

Chad is personally making sure his support department runs 100% so im sure he will go above and beyond to help everyone out.



tim