So the key is not to make left turns?? LOL JK

I have had the head come off once,

I think it was due to an impact on the head more so than it just broke off. I do know a few racers that have had this issue. Not sure why, but many have gone to a different head and not had any more head issues. Not sure what the cooling difference is when going to a different head.

Sirio Extech
 

Anyone ever used a Sirio Extech? Are they the same as the Trinity Extech's?

Thanks

One in the same.
Sirio ( Star Motor ) is the actual manufacturer.
Trinity is the North American importer of Sirio engines, including the Ex Tech line.

ah ha!
 

Thats what I figured.. looked at the specs for the internals and they were the exact same.. everyone still agreeing upon the P4 and 2013 pipe?

Correction they were the North American importer of Sirio engines.. I think Trinity has dropped Nitro once again..

Nope. Matter of fact, I just received this press release in my email today.

P4 Yes, I was actually using the O'Donnell 97T plugs at the end of the season. They seemed to last longer and were less expensive. Regarding the pipe, 2013 was crazy (harder to control) bottom and terrible mileage. I recommend the 2057 if you desire top end, or the big boy pipe for best mileage and smooth powerband.

I have a brand new Trinity .21 ,.24 head this is the newest version fresh from factory 30 shipped

Track review
 

Hey guys, I'm in Tucson AZ and ran my ExTech twice this week at Hobbytown and CanyonVista.. I haven't gotten a 2013/big boy pipe, can't decide on which so I strapped my 2053 on it just to try it out. Bottom end was decent and the engine really pulled in the mid range then somewhat came to life on the top.. mid-range was the best thought with the 2053 as it is an "mid-range pipe". I'm running 7-10-3 in my diffs (jammin x2 crt) and the truck was hugging the track pretty well. My only concern, I honestly can't get the engine above 160.. not that I am actively trying but is there not a point where you can damage the engine due to the internals not reaching a certain temp? The engine has 1 1/2 gallons on it now and will idle all day.. should I fatten the idle and lean the lsn a few hours? Let me know what you guys think.. thanks! Oh and I am running a P3 plug!

.24 or .21? I would say if it pulls good off the bottom then you are okay, maybe lean the HSN a couple hours. I've got a .24 and it runs 200-210 max.. And, it will rip at those temps.. The tuning instructions say to get the bottom end where it should be, Ie pulling hard off the bottom, with no bog, but no lean.. Do this by leaning the LSN an hour at a time and pulling hard from a dead stop for about 10-15 feet. Continue to lean until you see no increase in acceleration, then richen back hour.. Then set Idle, which should be close..

At this point you should be ready for HSN adjustment, and it is done by running down the longest straight away. You want it to pull good all the way down the straight with no burble, but with plenty of smoke.. Do it the same way as the LSN tuning..

Make sure engine is fully warmed up before tuning, and always try to tune at around 1/2 a tank..

Sorry if this info you already knew..

Can't say I knew all that information... thanks! I've been looking for a pipe to use.. I think I'm going to settle with the 2013 after reading up on them. I do have the 1.0 clutch spring on it now.. going to switch to all 1.1 to see if that helps snap it up a bit.. I will tune this week at the track and get back to you.. Thanks again

I will say that the 2013 is a good pipe on small tight tracks for this motor but it doesn't get as good of fuel mileage. the 2056 pipe is what you are going to want with this motor, you get the best of both worlds, good mileage and a good pipe for small and large tracks. one other thing, do not tune the motor to temps, tune to performance, smoke and sound, then check the temp only as a reference point. these motor will run cool. mine in a truggy normally runs between 175 to 205 just depending on the conditions. When I was at the psycho nitro blast I was lucky to see my temp above 170 and it was running like a bat outa hell with good smoke trail. So don't get to caught up on temps.

Trey7 why is no one carrying the Trinity engine anymore? Or, should I ask Who is carrying these now? I was dissappointed to see A-main drop them..

According to the press relese I got fron Trinity (Team Epic) the current lines of Ex-Tech and Sirio motors have been dropped. The new line of motors look to have the same block as the Ex-Tech 2's, the heads look to be the same as the Ex-Tech2's but with a new Sirio logo on them and new color. I assume that the head color identifies the type of motor. .12, .21, .24, .27 (for the Traxxas). Not alot of other info was contained in the press relese. When I called Team Epic I was told that the new mills have a new piston, sleeve, and rod. Outside of that the spec's were not known.

So, as to who might still carry the Ex-Tech's? Not many places that I have found. There are a coupl eof places on the flea bay that have new old stock Ex-Tech's and some pipes. Not much found for parts. I hope that the new mills will at least have the same rear baring size as the Ex-Tech's. With some luck, maybe the new parts will work on the old mills in a pinch. Hope that helps for what it's worth.

That is about the same info that I have recieved as well. I would think that it wouldn't be too long before they start showing up around amain and so forth. I do know that the fully modded .21 that I have has all the STI parts on the inside with the block and sleeve modifications done. other than that I have not see the newer versions at this time.

So, no real time line on when they will be available for purchase? They might get passed by if they don't get em out soon. Some of them Taiwan mills are pretty killer for the Money..

Just to put it out there... I read all over trying to find out if the 2056 is the same as the Big Boy pipe and couldn't find any factual info... is the 2056 the Big Boy pipe? From reading, everyone seems to have the same problems with the Big Boy... that is it's very flimsy and the stinger breaks.. anyone have that same problem?

I am currently running mine and have for the past year with out any problems. they are a lot harder than the 2013, and 2057 that sirio has put out. but yes the 2056 is the big boy pipe. They had a run in the beginning with internal baffles coming loose but have updated since then.

I run the Big Boy pipe and haven't had issue either,


I have two of them and one is a first gen one and the other is newer. My first gen was all beat up and the baffels were still good. Lucky I guess. Haven't heard of the stinger braking off, but stands to reason that it could. What I have done on my Big Boy's and 2013 is put some JB weld epoxy puddy around the stinger and under the pipe where the chassis or side guard could hit it. I run my pipes pretty low, so I figured that it would be a good idea to do that. So far, it's holding up and has kept the pipes from looking to beat up.

Drop idle
 

I'm running in Tucson.. around 75-80F when I'm racing at night.. I know my idle is set where it needs to be and my low end needle is set well, possibly even a little rich as the motor still doesn't have 2 gallons on it.. I'm running the 2057 as I still haven't found a 2013 or big boy yet.. however when I stop running the engine and let it idle, it has a high idle and then drops to where it should idle.. it will continue to idle for a good bit.. does this mean my low speed needle is a tad too lean? I really don't think I can close my idle screw gap anymore.. let me know what you guys think

Actually it sounds like you are to fat on the bottom and your idle it too high to compensate for the rich bottom. Normal idle gap should be around .5 mil to 1 milliliter. I would lean the bottom 1 hour at a time untill the idle stays up like you are talking about, then lower you idle screw. I normally set my bottom end on the box before I even get on the track. That was the way I was taught from Chad Phillips.

I concur with Trey. These mills seem to prefer to be tuned from the bottom needle first. Also, in my experience, the P4 is the best plug. Lastly, I'd stick with the 2057 pipeset. It will be a bit softer on bottom, yet pull harder mid to top, offer more top end and mileage than the 13. As for the 56, I've never liked it. It seems ok on bottom, comparable to the 57, insane mid, but feels to me like it chokes the engine down on top. One more pipe I have recently been running my Ex Tech on and it has been awesome with, is the Alpha Plus 0801. It is also built like a tank, kinda like the JP series. I would personally highly recomend trying one out if you've got a friend nearby that'll let ya :)

i have got the ex-tech .24 truggy motor and it is a screamer, got pretty descent milage from it. good motor but parts are kinda scarce now....

What is a good tune setting for these motors? I live in socal and also what are the stock settings

the tuning sheet that came with my motor says running at 230 deg. is perfectly tuned. I always ran mine at 220, just make sure you have a good amount of smoke from the pipe, tune it more from feel than temp.

i will locate my instructions and let you know the settings...

Engine
 

So I got the Big Boy pipe from a user on here.. great pipe and it sounds like a wasp on steroids. I switched it the big boy for a GRP 2053 pipe and I'm wondering how much tuning and difference in performance I should expect.. the big boy pipe is dubbed as an "all around" pipe correct? Thanks guys

:(
 

Thread is dead! I've been running the big boy pipe on my extech .21 and its nice, but I'm still looking for that bottom end. I may try the 2013... I"m running two 1.1 springs and one 1.0 spring in my clutch.. what temps are you guys running at? My engine just hit around 2 gallons and for the first time hit 200.

200 is completely normal for these mills. Mine has a hard time getting over 205 in a truggy. I will tell you that the 2013 will give you a lot of bottom end but you will lose fuel economy. Trust me the 2056 big boy is all you need if tuned right. I run the 2056 big boy on my truggy with the .21 fm, and I have all the bottom end that I need. Just make sure you are not running to fat on the bottom and too lean on the top. that will kill you bottom end.

Front bearing
 

What bearings have you all had luck with in the front? I tore out my engine today and my front bearing is leaking.. thanks

TKO is #1
www.tkocompetitiondev.com

Does anybody know where can I get a new conrod fro my extech or can i use the new sirio motor conrod

i need a conrod to does anybody know what will work or has one they will sell

i was wondering the same thing :weird:

anybody? .....

My cooling head bit the dust (seems to be a common problem) - I got a pair of Nova P5 heads but they are too thick in the button area. I gave one to my cousin to get machined down at work, but in case that doesn't work out, is there any other affordable head options out there that are a direct fit?

i think that older GRP and Sirio cooling head would fit...

Sirio and Novarossi have the same bolt pattern, the P5 head should work. I ran a odonnell head on my old sirio motor and a friend runs one on his Werks B5 so I know they work. All sirio based heads will work. Go to Ebay and serch cooling head http://cgi.ebay.com/TEAM-ORION-21-EN...item27b2a58f03
.99 for this one with 12 hours left it will fit.

that's the problem with extech
spares are difficult to find
I already search 3 years for a rod in my extech trinity version I