There is an RC god!!!!!!!

I figured out the noise that my engine was making. It wasnt the fuel because I got some new fuel today and it was doing the same thing. I do have another problem now but I think this one everyone will be able to figure it out much easier.

Are you ready for what the problem was? Drum roll!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The low speed needle was to lean. LOL. I dont know why I did this but I just gave the low speedle needle two full turns out from frustration and the noise went away. Reset my idle threw it on the ground and no more noise.

Here is what I am facing now.

I richened it to where there was very little power and it would flame out. I leaned the LSN 1 hour at a time until it ran consistently with no flame outs. As I kept leanning 1 hour at a time the power on the low punch would not get better. It felt gutless. I kept leanning and the noise came back so I richened it just under where the noise would stop.

The engine is not making great power now. What should I do next? Another thing I noticed was no matter where I move the lsn the same amount of smoke would come out whether it was rich or lean?

Any one know who or how to get a hold of the team manager of Epic/Sirio? I have email TonyP and Chad and Another guy a few times with no response any one know an alternate way of contacting them? Thanks in advance.

I got an email from Chad and he said they just got the power turned on Tuesday of this week. Hopefully they will be open for biz next week.

Go to: www.teamepiconline.com

Hi guys. Anyone know where i can get a conrod and a cooling head for a .21? Are there other conrod's that'll work with the extech?

Amain Hobbies has both the modded and stock rods in stock.

says backorderd when i look at it :confused:

You are right, I saw the cranks in stock yesterday my bad.

I used the Sirio Evo III rod (same as stock) in mine but I see they don't even list those anymore.:weird:

Has the move been completed yet?
I am needing some dire parts for a long long time.

try this
 

dishsoap I faught with my .24 on tuning . first set the idle gap where the gap is a small as you can.5 mm (barely cracked). Make sure your hsn is flush at the top of the housing and the lsn is flush (both will be rich). set the low speed frist get the motor to idle with the lsn. set it on the ground my sure engine is warmed up and pull a couple hole shots. lean engine on lsn till it has a good punch. then lean the hsn til it runs though the rpm range. you my have to richin the bottom a little. but not much. try it at this point you have nothing to lose. these motors a picky about the lsn and the idle gap. once you get it set your done. hope this helps

One other thing that has not been mentioned. The pipe that you are running, does it have the adapter between the pipe and manifold? If it does than remove it. I know when I first bought my .24 and the trinity pipe with the adapter it would gurgle like crazy and had no power. Chad told me to remove it and wala it had power and ran like a totally different motor.

I have a extech I runned-in ebmods
and noticed a little crunchy noise when moving the piston up
by turning the crank with the hand...could it be one of the the bearingballs already?
only have 1 1/2 gallon on it...

Ran the .24 FM today and realized something, the Big Boy is NOT the pipe for this mill at all. I so struggled with the tune and at best it was flat. I put on a TTR 2035 and you wouldn't believe the difference. Idled better, tons more snap and better top end. All around so much better. I have a Big Boy for sale from the first shipment that doesn't break the baffle off if anyone wants it.

So other than the trinity pipes and the big boy what is the best pipe for the .21.

Oh I think I have my problems figured out hopefully.

I think it was a combination of three things.


I had some help at the track getting it tuned and kept losing the tune. Just when I though it was perfect on the first race I had to go full throttle the entire way just to make it around the track. I think the motor just magically broke in. Pulled it off leaned a little on the high end and BAM!!!!!! Ran like a champ.

The second isusue was I had a wahser that was resting on the front of the flywheel that was not suposed to be there causing slight drag on the clutch bell.

The last one was my rear break linkage lever pin was sticking and would not completely disengaged after I released the breaks causing drag. I backed out the two top plate screws slightly and the problem went away.

Fixed all of these and ran like you wouldnt beleive until I stripped the plastic servo inserts on my steering. I am begining to learn that these engines need alot of attention when tunning and they are not that easy to tune. It took over 30 min from a guy who is very experienced to finally get it.

If I swtich to 30% fuel should I move the needles. If so how much.

+1

You may want to try a different clutch setup. I have been running the 09' .24 FM for about 2 gallons now. Started on my RC8T and now it is on my MBX6T. I run the M2C four shoe clutch with four soft lites and four .9 springs and my RC8T and MBX6T will clear most tripples that the buggies at my track struggle on...

I always start adjusting from the top to the bottom, and set my idle between .5-1mm gap. Reason being is if you set your lsn first, it leaves you with a smaller cushion when adjusting the hsn. So, leave your lsn very rich to the point it just idles without stalling. Slowly lean the hsn until you fail to see anymore performance gain(very little smoke maybe visible), then richen1-4 hours if the performance drops off slightly you know your close to the optimum hsn's setting. When your happy with the way it performs on the top end then began with the lsn. This ensures you are getting the most performance out of the mill before it starts to get hot. if you start from bottom to top you may end up with a mill that is to hot before you engine is performing it's best on the top end then you have to go back and readjust the bottom. I usually check my lsn's setting one of two ways. By now your mill should be well warmed. Make a high speed run and bring the vehicle in. Allow the rpm to fall to a low idle, let it sit for about 10 sec., and accellerate hard. If it hesitates, it is to rich, next i will make a couple laps around the track then bring it in again and imediately pinch the fuel line as close to the carb as possible. The engine should idle normally for a couple seconds then begin to lean out and stall (if your good enough you can usually catch it before it stalls), this should take maybe 4 seconds. If it stalls imediately or leans out quickly it is to lean.

IMO the Extech is remarkably easy to tune for an engine that makes so much power. The only tuning issues I've had have been air leaks, and once those were fixed it was fine. I like mine just a hair rich on bottom, it gets such god mileage and makes so much power you won't notice. I have one of the original EB Mods and it has 5 gallons through, crank and rod still look good.

Dishshoap, 2013 pipe is great for tracks where you need to get out of corners in a hurry, Dynamite 086 is good everywhere else. If you've been running with the brakes dragging I suggest you take a look at your clutch shoes and bell.

Nova cooling head
 

Just got my new cooling head from Novarcproduct

Did you send back ur old head to them so they can get the measurements

Yes.:nod:

The 2013 pipe is a werks racing brand right? If so its double the price of the dynamite. The dynamite 086 seems to work with any engine.

What about any of the JP pipes with the extech .21

Trinity has a 2013, it is the same as the werks pipe.
The dynamite 053 works well with the .21 also.

The 2013 I have is a Sirio pipe.

Team Epic
 

Just FYI.

Team Epics doors are open and they are shipping product.

Chad is a bit behind on customer service stuff as you might imagine from the down time the move created.

contact info is @:

www.teamepiconline.com

Well if Chad is back working FINALLY, I would like to get my crankshafts as promised back at the end of April. I have sent plenty of emails...but the last few have gone without any responses.

I am sure he is playing catch-up! AS you may recall they closed shop end of April and have been moving. I feel confident he will do what he said. Patience my friend. I am waiting on a few items myself.

Best Regards,

TC

Hey guys I just bought a used great condition Extech .21 from a buddy and I wanted to start fresh with the tune and wanted to find out what the factory needle setting is? I already PM Chad but no response yet from him, so thought I would ask here for the help. Thanks in advance.

tuned it is high needle flush
low needle just a bit in

+1

i have a trinity 24.it ran graet for about a halve gallon.but the last couple weeks i have been fighty to tune it.with stock needle settings it is way lean on the bottom.i have to turn out the low speed needles about 12 hours.somthing popped up today.it wont stay running when you it the brakes.i am feed up with engines. i am going back dyn. xpthat ran a hole lot better.any help would be great.

Sounds like your idle is set to low and as a result you are having to lean the bottom end to compensate.

I picked up a pre run 24 with a gallon or so on it from a buddy yesterday....I am putting it in a STRR and plan on using Dyn 86 pipe with a P4 (Trinnity 30% fuel). Is it safe to assume this will be a good starting point? He ran it with JP2, but I really am not a JP pipe fan (even though I have two of them). I also take it the factory needle settings are HSN flush, and LSN slightly in from flush?

You might check your clutch springs and make sure it isnt engaging while your trying to tune...:batman:

I found out today that I ended up with one of the EB mod non-modded motors. I took the motor apart to find that my motor has had no changes to any ports or the crank when compared to a stock Extech.

What a rip! Someone didn't do their job !!!:flaming::flaming::flaming::flaming:

could be the EB mods checked all around /runned-in version
which is not bad..

Didn't you answer your own point above..eb-mod----non modded----??? He did several break ins without any type of mod and put his signature on them...

Now if you paid for the full mod motor...$299.00 I'd be smokin mad also.....

Well Well Well

The saga comes to a close. If have read some of posts then know that I have been through hell and back since nearly day 1. With the help of a good guy from the track and a pro driver my problems are over for now. I turned over all of my rc stuff for some good old wrenching from people who know what they are doing.

The problem. Ramping Putty. It came loose from the crank and turned to soft rubber clogging the entire exhaust. I havent ran it yet but they said its a beast now.

It only took a month but thank god its over. Not sure what cuased it other 5 drops of after run oil one time when it was brand new and had never been turned over.

That's what caused it.

Hey dish, not to say I told you so.....but that's exactly one of the things I told you to look for 3 weeks ago (page 10, post #1590) Glad you got it figured out though. What did they do, just remove the rest of the silicone and rebuild it without any ramping? I ask because that is what I did, and the engine still isn't right. Could be just way off tune now that the primary flow has changed. LMK, thanks!

I also don't mean to say i told you so , but i also said the same thing 3 weeks ago. Oh well glad you got it fixed , i've seen many do it.

So afterrun oil is a no no with these engines?