i bought the 5 pack of grp plugs and almost fell over backwards at the price i asked are they gold plated , but they do come in a sexy little case maybe the reason why they are so dam expensive but i guess if you by 5 individual plugs some olaces would be the same there certainly is no discount buying the bulk pack eg 5 pack :confused:

its the case that makes em go bad:lol:

i emailed and asked and this is the response i got.

Dear Paul,

We are not ready as yet with our on line shop whic should be ready now around middle of March.

Best regards,
Lara Speranzini
On behalf of
Maurizio Gandini
So only another couple of weeks to wait!

i got the national titles in 4 weeks maybe i will get some os plugs aswell just incase after reading about the reliabilty of these plugs but i have not yet done a plug and i have run the engine in on yhe same glow plug

anyone know of a place that still sells the(GRP) Ninja BO1A parts(piston/sleeve) ? Or will the new ones fit?

You may not like the price but nitro house has it in stock.


http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id=16769

Well I ran my new, used tuned grp today. Love the power band:) I do have a question though, I had my motor running good at around 210 degrees. I finished my tank let it cool down and then would run it again. Man it would run SO rich. I didn't touch the needle setting at all either. My motor has about a gallon on it and its still very tight. Do these motors take a long time to get warmed up compared to other motors? I mean are they cold blooded? thanks

My experience is yes cold blooded, use a heat gun to warm the block and head temp to 180 or above when starting, this helps. I have also had problems with the o-rings on the idle, LSN, & HSN getting old and not holding the position. Easy fix is to replace the o-rings. I even had one GRP that was giving an inconsistent tune where fuel was pooling up and out the HSN without the needle moving, replaced the o-rings and problem was solved. In my opinion I always warm the engine up for 3-5 mins before my heat/ main, it just runs better that way. So yes cold blooded but worth the trouble once its hot and tuned its on fire.

Thanks Frank:)

my last club race ...with the tuned grp ////i was starting up at the table after pre heating with heat gun ...a buddy came over and said ...man you need to idle that thing up ....i said give it time man ...see what happens on the track ....they are cold natured and take a good 3 minutes of run before a heat to get to operating temprature .....after the 5 minute heat with 3 minute warm up ...it came off at 195 and was not lacking in any way ...give these motors time to warm up and get going and they are golden :nod:dont over react when you first fire them up ....after the 15 minute main ...i got 2nd place ...it was 195 and again had enough power pulling my x2 to clear jumps and scramble down a long back straight ....

+1000....havent had the trouble with o-rings yet ....

i damaged my grp because i wasnt heatin it up, idk how many gallons i lost but i have about just over a gallon and it feels like i have 3 gallons on it pinch wise. thats the only bad thing about a starter box that will start anything :(. i love this motor, my dad got one and he HATES it but he has like 10 tanks total, MAYBE little more. it doesnt have the power he wants but i told him to get it over a gallon and he will love it.



mine comes off anout 180-190 every time and there are so many times where im on my first lap for warm up or just sittin in the pit and i have guys telling me to lean it out and all i say is its fine just wait. then in the race after the motors warmed up i pass them on the straight

i agree with what people are saying it does take awhile for these motors to run in i have got the nationals coming up in 3 weeks and my motor still is nnot trun in et still pretty much new im sure by the end of the 4 day meeting it should be pretty good z:nod: hopefully by the finals more so ...
what fuel economy are people getting with these engines ?

in buggy you can get upwards of 13 minutes in optimal conditions and tune ..(i have pitted for people that got that run time)....in truggy im thinking 10-12 minutes range ....after a 5 minute heat 2 weeks ago i had btween 1/2 and 3/4 tank left ...im just sayin ...shouldnt be an issue

I have a grp tuned in my mbx6 and I love it. Gets awesome run time and power is great. But it has alot of fuel threw and is low on pinch, Im the second owner, althou it still runs great. Im getting ready to order a new one. What is the best way to break it in and get it up to temp

Is it possible to put the non-tuned head on the Tuned engine so as to use a standard glow plug? Turbo plugs are just not for me at this time.

The Tuned engine is still sealed in the box. Would I be better off selling this tuned engine and buy one of the modded Non-tuned .21s from Mark? Like I said I just dont' want to get into using turbo plugs right now. So however I can avoid using them would be great.

thanx

get a non tuned engine from mark ...sell the tuned version ...nip you should be able to get your money back on it

stock settings ..wrap head with aluminum foil ...heat it up with a heat gun ...when it doesnt start lean the lsn a small hour at a time until it will start...when it does start it should idle at around 190-205 for an infinite amount of time .......or heat cycle it to 200 degrees ...i idled 3 tanks through mine before i put it down to run ......

here ya go GRP owners....
 

http://www.losi.com/Articles/Article...ArticleID=1897


Also keep in mind when considering your engine for the season this great perk only available through grp/losi/horizon...

When the time comes for your battle tested and seasoned engines(GRP) last breath don't panic. Simply box the engine up(minus the pipe, clutch, etc), include new bearings of your choice with the package along with name and return address. Adam Drake will recieve your engine at Horizon, clean, inspect, pinch the piston/sleeve, and install new bearings for no charge!

So for the price of bearings and shipping(approx. $60) you have a like new engine that will be nearly better than new for gallons to come!

If anyone needs the shipping address email me @ [email protected]..

Keep your eyes out @ carolinasrc.com for MArch specials on GRP engines.

Alan, your link doesn't work.

I have been using the same number 5 GRP plug going on the 2nd race season purchased 3 at the start of last year and still have not used all 3. so I can say I have not seen a problem with their plugs. If you have to go thru the 5 pack your bought I would say something is terribly wrong with the tune. Just my 2 cents

chill...send that mill to me;)


Let me fix the link.


I also run grp plugs and have great luck. I change them every couple races but save the old ones and let a racer in need run them or use them sometimes.

LOL feel free to let me use them up here in Virginia ( racer that needs them). I can use them against Jeff and Roy Jordan since they still have those OCMs but I think they still have enough spare parts left to start a hobby shop. One day they will run out and have to change, talked to him bout a Losi but he wont listen.

Do you have any pics of your buggy with motor and pipe installed? I would love to see how the pipe fits in the mbx6. The motors are back on sale at amain and I am getting ready to pull trigger.

That's two good guys right there....

lol, when he runs out of parts he will have to make a switch. I'll be working on him as well;)

My tuned has about 3/4 of a gallon on it. The compression is very light. Wont even attempt to hold at 3 o'clock but it runs consistently as far as temps go and doesn't flame out. It does feel like Im chasing a tune b/c I can't quite get the lsn right. Sometimes it will rev while in the air (jump) and if I open the lsn a hair it wants to stall, so I open the idle gap and it will rev after idle. I kind of think I just need to get it pinched or buy a new p/s.

for those who don't know A main has the grp tuned .21 on sale for $279 :eek:

sounds about right ...you must have had an air leak or ran it at excessive high temps ....meaning anything above 220

I had this happen with my tuned .21 too. It had approx 3 gal on it and I replaced everything from the front bearing to the button head to the plug. I even tried switching to GRP plugs as I have read about the angle sealing problem with other plugs. Nothing worked. I finally found a guy at my local track that is a guru in tuning. He spent about 1-2 min with it on the bench and it was really close after than. I still to this day don't know what he did but it solved the high revving/ lean sounding tune that I was getting before. 2 other things I would check. 1) the o-rings in the carb can let the needles get loose and sometimes they will move on their own. Easy fix - replace the o-rings. The HSN, LSN and idle needle should all have some tension on them, if they do not then they can move and cause you to chase a tune. 2) the idle needle is set too high. I have had my idle needle set too high and had a false idle happen. When the needle is set too high then my engine would rev high and not return to idle. It also would rev high even if it did return to idle. I would try lowering the idle and if that does not work then take the needles back to stock or to Drake recommended settings and go from there.

My GRP hasn't seen over 200. I've only used GRP 4 plug. Im not really concerned about the light compression because it runs long and strong, I just can't find the idle sweet spot. I'll check for all possible air leaks and try it again.

I broke-in and raced 2 new GRPs last weekend. A tuned .28 and a Powerhouse .21 . On the .21 I ran a JP-1 (powerhouse recommended) a 6mm restrictor and, a MC-9 plug. On the tuned .28 I ran a MSR 1005 with a 6mm restrictor and, a O.S. P-3 plug. Both engines ran, tuned and idled flawlessly on Sidewinder 30%/12%. Both engines also ran in the 230 degree range. I was not overly impressed in the power department, but then again they don't have much fuel through them and they had 6mm restrictors. Also both engines, buggy and truggy were getting about 8.5 minuted per tank. I think the pipe choice and the engines still being tight had a little effect on the runtime and also running temps.

I will be trying different pipes next time, which may be several months before I get the chance to race again. Someone said a few posts earlier that these engines were "cold blooded". I disagree. Compared to my Werks engines the GRP's are great...

i hate to be the one to tell you this but if you keep running those engines at that temp you will not enjoy them for long these motors will not last at that temp they should not exceed 200 deg 180-190 is prefered:nod:

Alan, I plan to hand it to you in person this Sat.:nod:

Ok, so what am i suposed to do to drop the temps? Yeah I've heard that they run cooler but, they didn't want to for me. Any richer on the low end and they would load up at idle and through the infeild. Any richer on the top and they were gutless. I tried keeping them at 200 degrees and neither engine liked it. I'm open to sugjestions.

Ambient temp was about 62 degrees. Humidity was 25%-30%. I had a temp sensor mounted between the lowest fins on the head and cross checked the accuracy with a Exergen temp gun.

From what I understand and how Mr. Drake tunes his motor you are supposed to have the LSN as lean as you can get it and tune the HSN slightly rich. The leaner lsn will help it idle well and have a nice crisp bottom and the richer hsn will keep the engine well lubed on the straights.

That's what I started out trying on one engine and the results were not good so I never tried it with the other engine. The temps seemed to come down a little with each quallifier and as they droped I also leaned the top end a little to get a little more preformance. So I was assuming that they were going to run a little warm until they start to loosen up a little more.

Well they it is modded so maybe that's why it runs warmer.

John, your temps may not be out of line running the sidewinder with 12% oil. I used to run that fuel and when I switched to worlds blend or the 10% blend my temps dropped a lot. The more oil content seems to produce a little more heat and a little less power. I would try using the grp 2053 pipes with the engines if possible. I have both the .28 and the .21 and with the 2053 pipe the .28 is almost too much and it still gets 10 minutes a tank. Your fuel will probably not yield the runtimes most are getting either but I wouldn't concern myself with temps as long as it is still leaving a nice smoke trail.

Motor will run a little hotter when thay are new as long you have smoke you will be good.Temps will come down once you have a good gallon through it and the power will be good.