HSN 4
LSN 6.5

Thanks for trying to help me, but you're way off, especially on the LSN. You numbers didn't sound right so I emailed GRP support in Italy and their reply is below:

"Please return both needles to their original position (all in). Then, turn the low speed needle fully 3,5 times out and the high speed needle 3 times out for .21 engines."

That's funny I called Horizon Hobby support and they told me 6 out on HSN and 2.5 out on the LSN. I ignored their advice since that too seemed way off.

Yeah, I would think that 6 turns on the LSN would bog any engine out there. Normally the stock settings place an engine at a overly rich setting at around 3 1/2 - 4 turns so I know that 6 turns is drowning an engine with fuel.

i was told by horizon 4hsn 2.5lsn, it seems like everyone gets a different answer

I'm running around 5.5 LSN and 3.5 HSN consistently with P3 plug temping around 185 - 190 good smoke excellent power; engine runs great. Sorry my numbers were way off for ya.

Check this out before you start running your LSN too lean. Also, it's always a good thing to use the search feature of this forum you will typically find answers to your questions before you have to ask them...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ml#post4450579 Start at top of thread
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ml#post4711243 Start at top of thread

I'd forgotten about the search feature. Thanks. I'll check em out.

Is there any point of getting the GRP 21 promo kit because i heard the pipe in them are preety average and that the Hong Nor 2062 is way better.

Should i just buy the engine itself then instead of the whole kit?

just put in 3 tanks in my GRP 21 PROMO. By far one of the easiest engines to run in.

A++++

Cleaning up my pit boxes and I have a used GRP Ninja .21 carburetor and cooling head. Anyone interested please email me at [email protected].

Best regards,

Hey everyone, if you really need good answers on GRP.. ask Adam Drake in the "Drake talks about new 8ight 2.0" I got alot of help and answer from him.. somebody in this thread said that theres no way it runs 250 degrees.. well read it in there.. adam typed it out! it does run at 250 at first after breakin.. it cools down after a few tanks.

Anyhow.. thats where i got most of the answers i needed..

YOUR WELCOME GRP FANS!

Grp
 

the grp is great I can not ask for more the power is smooth and the wear is good to. I have about 2 gallons and no sign of a bearing going out or anything. And the runtime is great to i almost can get 10 minutes (on a .21)

yeah im getting addicited to this motor over Vspecs.. but Vspec is easy to tune though.

I know this is hard without physically inspecting the engine but im Looking for a diagnosis on the condition and life left in my engine.

I broke the engine in to the best of my limited ability(only my 3rd engine.) using the heat cycle method and basically for the first 4 ltrs a heat gun was used before starting and the engine was never started cold. Its sitting at 2 1/2 gallons now, it has almost no mechanical pinch with the plug out... there is a slight resistance. With the plug in the engine has compression and is hard to turn over. The engine still runs really well, both high and low end are still there. And it holds a tune perfectly and the temp never gets out of control.

So im worried about it having almost no pinch with the plug out, but it still runs very well? How much life is left in the engine?

And is it worth getting it modded, im tempted after seeing this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ore-after.html.

Anyways cheers for any advice.

Jonro...Do not worry about it. I've seen GRP's and Vspecs with little pinch run for several gallons. Start worrying about it when it either will not idle well or loses tune consistently...Sounds like you broke it in right. That engine should last you a while. Good luck..Scott

What is the obsession with mechanical pinch, an engine needs compression to run not pinch. If it has compression with the plug in and it runs well then all is good. If your engine has mechanical pinch than it is still not run in.

Yea your absolutely right about the pinch. I just got back from a bash where i put 7 more tanks through it, and even though the engine has little metal pinch, the engine ran flawlessly. And i forgot to add that Ive got this engine idling so low and stable that i don't know how it stays running, heh.

Cheers for the reply's.

P.S. And good luck with that sig Sam-E :P

What pipe for the tuned .28
 

I understand the pipe that comes with the promo kit is too restrictive. I've actually got a 053 pipe laying around. Will that make good power or should I pick up a better pipe? I want to get the right pipe up front.

the 9853/053 pipes work really good on the grp, works best with short manifold

The Grp pipe works the best smoothe power

A couple more newb questions:

The 9853 and 053 are basically the same pipe?

How do I know if I've got the short manifold? My manifold is sort of angular, not a round sweep.


thanks for the help


Steve

053 is just a copy of 9853, most of the time the pipe comes with the short or medium manifold, either one will work well

I think the 2053 pipe works the best of the GRP pipes and I like the short/round header the best. It's hard to tell which length the header is unless you have a different length GRP header to compare it to. GRP changed the radius of the tube between where it connects to the engine and the pipe, so you can eyeball it or use a piece of string or somethign to check the length. They did it so when you chaneg the header length the pipe's position stays the same and you do not have to cut a lonegr hole in your body for the pipe stinger.

By all means I am not saying you are wrong. I did not have time to read through the entire thread, but I think Adam said it's ok that your engine ran 210 degrees when you asked him.

I have had the chance to race with adam and test several times in preperation for the worlds. He showed me some very valuable information that has helped me since running the GRP .21.

When breaking in my engines( I have 4) none of them have ever reached 250 and when tuned properly will not run much over 200 degrees. The most I have ever seen Adams run temp wise is about 210...maybe. I would think running it at 250 might come at the expense of the engine life. If you race with Adam or in his area let him look at it and he will put you on track. Once you see him tune, it is very easy to replicate.

Again, I may have missed where he told you that.

Take care.

I just got my GRP engine toolkit yesterday. If anyone has a used up GRP motor, or a motor that needs bearings, i might want it.

hey guys, I just got a used grp engine. Not sure how much fuel is threw it but has good compression and a new rod and ceramic bearings in it recently. My questions are what plug does the engine seem to like the most. the only pipe I have is a rb 2045 pipe think it will do ok with it? Also what are the factory settings for it. Thanks Im sure I will be asking many more questions to come

Drake posted this in the 2.0 thread:

My GRP set-up for 8ight 2.0: #5 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 6mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 48 gearing.

My GRP set-up for 8ight T: #5 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 7mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, alum. flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 50 gearing.

Mike Truhe's GRP set-up for 8ight 2.0: #4 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 6mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 48 gearing.


Mike Truhe's GRP set-up for 8ight T: #4 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 7mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 50 gearing.

thanks for help guys. Here is another twist on my quest for a pipe.

I won a 086 pipe in a raffle at my hobby shop. The pipe was not actually provided by the shop however. Should I see if I can swap for an 053? What will an 86 do for power?

revo, do you happen to have the pipe that comes with the promo kit? They have tested alot, that's pretty much the best pipe for the job. You will have great smooth power and very good runtime if tuned properly.


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=8940


It's honestly not restricitve at all for the engine. If that had been the case I assure you none of the top guys would have it on the engines. I think anyone that ran the worlds used that pipe/grp .21 tuned.

No, I have not bought anything yet. Still in research mode. I am trying to figure out why some folks say the included pipe is the best, and others say its the worst! I am getting the .28 tuned fwiw and putting it in a truggy.

Revo, I understand 100%.

Not sure why some say it's the worst. A good key is to look at what the best racers have on the engines. If a ofna 053 worked the best it would be on those engines, or a version of it, exp at an event like the worlds.

I have had the chance to test and race several events including the worlds with GRP's top guys. The GRP support crew of course was at the worlds anprovided us with support. It was always determined that was the best pipe overall for the engine and thats what ended up on our cars for the worlds.

Now, if someone told you that was the best and you looked and they had a jp-3 on the engine you would then know that your told that because they were pushing product.

It's a solid pipe that does not dent easy, connects to header without the springs and does not leak there either.

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=8940

Some don;t notice how it connects to the header, you see that? My email is [email protected] should you have any questions regarding the GRP. You can also ask Adam Drake on the losi 2.o thread.

ahhh...just seen it's going in a .28, let me double check for you;)


I'll be back.

Revo,

I called Adam Drake and asked him. He said the 2053 is great for the engine. He said make a ton of power and that he actually stopped running the .28 because it would wheelie through bumps to much. But he could not see why some say it's the worst pipe. If you need more power than what that gives ya you may need another hobby! lol....

But I asked the best alternate pipes as well:

Jp-1 for more bottom(you won;t need that)

Jp-3 works well too.

xxxx

I happen to see him at the JBRL races, even though hes too busy working on his own, and rhonda's buggy n truggy too.. So I rather not bother him at the tracks on race days. But since that I am moving closer, for a job, I am sure I will run into him at Reveloution, Thunder Alley tracks.. hopefully if i am there at right time, right day. I am looking to get another grp 21 tuner engines for spare and backup. but damn glow plugs, why are they so expensive.;

I'll be coming out to the Sidewinder and I'll be glad to help ya out.

Listen, Adam does not mind. It's his job to help you. So go get him to help you. yes, sometimes he may be busy but he will help ya asap.

;)

alright, so your going to the sidewinder nitro explousion... doesnt it require ROAR membership?

by the way im not great with tuning, because I am hearing impared (lost hearing when young) I have my team buddies from Matrix concepts do the tuning.. I worry that its messin the motor up!

Wow nothing like going right to the source! Thanks man

If you saw the track I race on you would laugh at me for using a .28. I mean a strong running .15 would likely suffice. But I want a quality engine and I can't see paying the same price and getting less power. There are also some very large tracks near me too, and I'll be able to uncork her!

Revo-daddy,

If your interested, let me know.

Thanks.

GRP .28 Promo Kit