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i wouldnt recommend the .21 buggy engine in the truggy, i raced my x2with it last weekend it was fast, just didnt have enough bottom for a few of the jumps, as far as the straightaway it stayed with anything, it was just on one of the jumps it just didnt have enough, i went lastnight and practiced with my x2 with my os speed with jp3 and it was much stronger on the bottom and had no issues with that jump, i like the grp in my buggy alot it has more then enough bottom in it, just gotta run the right pipe and right plug and insert, if you wanna run a grp tuned i would recommend it for the buggy and just put your speed in the truggy, or get a speed for the truggy i sell them on here for 400.00 shipped or ebay for 400.00 plus shipping
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I had a picco P3 28 and a JP P5 mod for my last CRT and I found the 21 gave me more consistent laps time and the fuel mileage is awesome. That is why i want a 21 in my new truggy.
I was told the the normal OS vspec has better bottom end than the speed, is it true? |
yes the speed is a little softer on the bottom but i found it has more then enough, the grp was just a little to soft , i havent tried the grp .28 i dont like the idea of the fuel economy going away, i have allways run .21's in my truggies in the past, the grp tuned is really good in the buggy, just wouldnt recommend the .21 for the truggy, i have actually run the speed and the grp in the same truck with the same gearing at the same track with the same tires and conditions, the speed just was able to make more bottom to clear the jumps better, as far as the straight aways and going from turn to turn they are about the same, fuel economy is really similar as well, i run the grp with the associated 2035 pipe with long header and 7mm restrictor with p3 os plug its an animal in the buggy and was fast in the truggy just didnt quite have enough pop
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Originally Posted by ultragraffics
(Post 4850831)
Jonro - Pull your carb apart and inspect your slide. i have a feeling that it has a bur on it where the idle gap is adjusted. I would be lead to believe thats what happened...
This can happen when you adjust the idle without pulling throttle slightly.. Dremel the bur off or use some scotchbrite. Also when you remove the burr dont be afraid chuck up the slide on a drill and run it some while in the carb body. It helps free it up some and may prevent additional sticking. Some guys have this problem some dont. It seems hit or miss. Hope that helped... |
No problem...
These are great engines. They just don;t have all the little quirks ironed out quite yet. They are well worth the little extra effort though... |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4850783)
First off i have to say this engine is running awesome, nearing the 4ltr mark.
But im having major problems with the carb binding with the engine in my 8ight and flexing of the radio tray, which in an 8ight can only mean certain death for a servo. I've tried adjusting my linkage and carb set-up every which way possible, different length servo arms and all. The funny thing is when the engine is cold and i think i have it set right the carb movement is buttery Smooth and no radio tray flex at all but when it gets any heat into it its a totally different story. When up to temp it totally binds up, so bad that it wont get past half throttle. I've tried adjusting this thing every way possible, different length servo arms, different carb rotation positions and different ball linkage positions. No matter how good i get it when its cold, once it heats up it binds like hell. Any ideas? I love this engine so much that im almost to the point of selling this damn 8ight with its stupid servo set-up and getting a conventional servo tray set-up buggy.
Originally Posted by ultragraffics
(Post 4850831)
Jonro - Pull your carb apart and inspect your slide. i have a feeling that it has a bur on it where the idle gap is adjusted. I would be lead to believe thats what happened...
This can happen when you adjust the idle without pulling throttle slightly.. Dremel the bur off or use some scotchbrite. Also when you remove the burr dont be afraid chuck up the slide on a drill and run it some while in the carb body. It helps free it up some and may prevent additional sticking. Some guys have this problem some dont. It seems hit or miss. Hope that helped...
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4853711)
Aww! i really don't wannabe pulling apart my brand new GRP carb, but i guess it has to be done, it cant be good for it anyway the way it is binding up atm. Thanks ultragraffics.
Originally Posted by ultragraffics
(Post 4853737)
No problem...
These are great engines. They just don;t have all the little quirks ironed out quite yet. They are well worth the little extra effort though... About putting the slide in a drill and spinning it in the body for a while, should i heat up the body and slide first then try that? as its really smooth when its cold and i cant see that doing much when its cold. Thanks for any help. |
does it still bind if you remove the linkage and operate it manually? I had the same problem till I got the linkage lined up straight.
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Originally Posted by desertbird
(Post 4857939)
does it still bind if you remove the linkage and operate it manually? I had the same problem till I got the linkage lined up straight.
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcga...TruheTQ008.JPG |
Originally Posted by desertbird
(Post 4857939)
does it still bind if you remove the linkage and operate it manually? I had the same problem till I got the linkage lined up straight.
It really is nice and smooth when cold absolutely no binding at all, soon as it gets heat into, binding. So frustrating! |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4858938)
yea when its hot it gets tight and crunchy, add in a linkage of any sort and bam it binds. I've tried adjusting this thing every way possible, different length servo arms, different carb rotation positions and different ball linkage positions. No matter how good i get it when its cold, once it heats up it binds like hell.
It really is nice and smooth when cold absolutely no binding at all, soon as it gets heat into, binding. So frustrating! Well, call me a noob, but when I had my eight, it did the exact same thing you are referring to...it did it with 3 different engines to boot....I spent hours on the throttle linkage too....I have not had a stuck carb in my three rides after I got rid of the 8ight....the 8ight is a good and fast car, but the throttle servo setup and linkage is very, very picky...good luck with it |
When I had my grp based ninjas and losi cars, i had the carb binding. No matter how much i messed with the linkages, i could never make it smooth. my only solution was to grease the carb barrel each race day. it solved all my problems, no more hitting jumps with the throttle sticking, worked well. just a negative to the losi with grp based motors.
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Originally Posted by gtsum
(Post 4859065)
Well, call me a noob, but when I had my eight, it did the exact same thing you are referring to...it did it with 3 different engines to boot....I spent hours on the throttle linkage too....I have not had a stuck carb in my three rides after I got rid of the 8ight....the 8ight is a good and fast car, but the throttle servo setup and linkage is very, very picky...good luck with it
I think ill be switching to ether the 808 or the MBX6, i think ive spent just as much time, if not more messing with the linkage and servos on this 8ight than i have driving it. |
they did address the servo tray with the 2.0
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Originally Posted by desertbird
(Post 4859232)
they did address the servo tray with the 2.0
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promo kit ?'s
about to order a .21 buggy promo kit, What carb inserts come in the promo kit? And which other brand inserts fit the GRP? I will be running a Losi engine in an Associated buggy.....quit laughing
Thanks Guys |
Originally Posted by millerdui
(Post 4863671)
about to order a .21 buggy promo kit, What carb inserts come in the promo kit? And which other brand inserts fit the GRP? I will be running a Losi engine in an Associated buggy.....quit laughing
Thanks Guys |
Originally Posted by schreff
(Post 4863729)
The promo kit comes with the 6, 7, and 8mm restrictors. Not sure what other brand ones fit. I use the 7mm restrictor and haven't had a need to try anything else.
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I replaced my p/s and rod on my ninja .28 with the grp, and perfect fit!!!
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Has anyone ran the buku pipe with the GRP .21.
I need more cowbell!! |
thanks for the quick answer....i have a heavy throttle finger and need milage...the 6mm should help me some, I just need more throttle/self control
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Originally Posted by schreff
(Post 4863729)
The promo kit comes with the 6, 7, and 8mm restrictors. Not sure what other brand ones fit. I use the 7mm restrictor and haven't had a need to try anything else.
Novarossi restrictors will fit the GRP |
Well i dont know what the hell to do about this thing, NO MATTER WHAT I DD the carb binds, i almost threw the thing in the bin today after hours of fiddling with it.
Engine is in an 8ight Ive Tried: Taking the carb apart checking for burs and rubbing the slide down with scotch brite and greasing it to hell - any heat and the slide binds. Adjusting this thing every way possible, different length servo arms, different carb rotation positions and different ball linkage positions. No matter how good i get it when its cold - any heat and the slide binds. Do i buy a new carb and risk the same shit all over again? Or should i just buy a new kit with a conventional servo tray set-up, i know it wouldn't bind with a normal, straight set-up. |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4867082)
Well i dont know what the hell to do about this thing, NO MATTER WHAT I DD the carb binds, i almost threw the thing in the bin today after hours of fiddling with it.
Engine is in an 8ight Ive Tried: Taking the carb apart checking for burs and rubbing the slide down with scotch brite and greasing it to hell - any heat and the slide binds. Adjusting this thing every way possible, different length servo arms, different carb rotation positions and different ball linkage positions. No matter how good i get it when its cold - any heat and the slide binds. Do i buy a new carb and risk the same shit all over again? Or should i just buy a new kit with a conventional servo tray set-up, i know it wouldn't bind with a normal, straight set-up. |
It could be the fuel causing the carb to stick. If the carb is fine when cold, then binds when the motor is warm, chances are it is the fuel. Grab one of your buddies fuel bottle and empty your tank and replace the fuel. start the engine and the problem should go away. I've seen alot of sticky carbs due to bad fuel.
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Does anyone have experience with a JP1 and 2053 pipe on the tuned GRP 21? I'm looking for a strong bottom end. I tried the JP3 and JP1 and I like the JP1 so far. I would like to know if the 2053 pipe would have a stronger bottom end than the JP1.
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GRP tuned .21 buggy engines...
hi, anyone tried out the GRP .21 tuned off-road buggy engines ? ...
it's price is very attractive :nod:, includes tuned pipe, engine and free gifts at quite an amazing price compared to other top engines... :) at the moment. think Truhe, Battle are using GRP engines as well and have a very strong showing at the Worlds. thanks :D |
Originally Posted by Bad Mika
(Post 4882993)
hi, anyone tried out the GRP .21 tuned off-road buggy engines ? ...
it's price is very attractive :nod:, includes tuned pipe, engine and free gifts at quite an amazing price compared to other top engines... :) at the moment. think Truhe, Battle are using GRP engines as well and have a very strong showing at the Worlds. thanks :D Look back through this thread and you will find all that you want to know. |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4859138)
You would think after all this time, all the kits sold, all they money they have made, all the servos killed and all the complaints received they would have improved the radio tray........
I think ill be switching to ether the 808 or the MBX6, i think ive spent just as much time, if not more messing with the linkage and servos on this 8ight than i have driving it. Previously I had the XB8, XB8EC, Jammin, MBX5, Turmoil, RC8, and the previously mentioned Losi's. The Losi's Were great until I tried the 808, Hands down the best buggy I have ever drove!! You can drive it hard or soft if you like and the parts dont wear like the Losi. GRP, for what its worth, If you use a Go or Novarossi standard head button on them, most of the tuning issues go away. You just need to reset/reshim your deck height. |
tuning issues go away if you just switch over to a os p3 plug, the grp plugs are tempermental, once they get working good they last a long time, but i found the os plug just works better, makes it much easier to tune and to get the engine to idle
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Personally, I have not had many tuning issues with my GRP .21 . It has an awsome engine. Mine is going on its 3-4th gallon? and still runs great. I did, however, switch from the GRP #6 (TOO COLD) to the GRP #4, which smoothed out the idle, got rid of the occasional flame out (after refueling). I am now running the OS p-4 plug, and seems to work great. It runs all day @ 180-190 degrees, with tons of power. As far as holding a tune, I find that it normally only needs a tiny tweak of the LSN (within 1-2 hrs) depending on track, but normally is fine.
I have read of some having tuning issues, but I have not experienced any of that, with the exception of the ones I mention. Maybe I have been lucky. I come from running the Novarossi's (which I still like), but have been SUPER happy with the GRP, so I see another in my future. Oh yeah, and I run the Jammin JP-3 on it, which it seems to love. On race day, I have gone 8 1/5 minutes with fuel to spare. Just my experience, anyways.:nod: |
The GRP's, both the 21 and 28, have had tuning issues. On some that were returned there was air leaking from the exhaust port going around to the side bypass chamber on the sleeve. Low RPM tuning provided frustrating results, newer versions that had the smaller restrictors seem better - 'read': better tolerance on the maching of the block.
P3's would offen advance the timing too much but would definitely improve performance. The stock plugs are simply too cold for the engine. P4's were a better match, however the ease of tuning with a standard head button AKA GO or Novarossi, made the engine run like a mid range Novarossi - which is what it basically is. Although our local track has been great in supporting them, I'm going back to the diehard long live Novarossi's. Even Truhe and Drake had inconsintent Flameouts which are not as frequent now. In another year I think Manufacturing will have tighter tolerances now that initial demand has weaned a bit. I'm not meaning to start an arguement, just stating my experience. |
I run OS P3 have never (knock on wood) flamed out during a race unless my tune was off because f'd around with the needles more than necessary. My engine holds a tune very well now that I have found it's sweet spot. Like previously mentioned you only need to adjust LSN an hour or two.
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Originally Posted by Spdjunky
(Post 4884853)
The GRP's, both the 21 and 28, have had tuning issues. On some that were returned there was air leaking from the exhaust port going around to the side bypass chamber on the sleeve. Low RPM tuning provided frustrating results, newer versions that had the smaller restrictors seem better - 'read': better tolerance on the maching of the block.
P3's would offen advance the timing too much but would definitely improve performance. The stock plugs are simply too cold for the engine. P4's were a better match, however the ease of tuning with a standard head button AKA GO or Novarossi, made the engine run like a mid range Novarossi - which is what it basically is. Although our local track has been great in supporting them, I'm going back to the diehard long live Novarossi's. Even Truhe and Drake had inconsintent Flameouts which are not as frequent now. In another year I think Manufacturing will have tighter tolerances now that initial demand has weaned a bit. I'm not meaning to start an arguement, just stating my experience. Spdjunky you have pm....not flaming ya just a question |
Hey guys, I have tried most of you guys telling me about glow plugs, tuning and all that... it was ALL WRONG!!!
Adam Drake told me that it was supposed to be running at 250-267 temp after break in. for a few tanks about half gallons, it will start to cool down better. Also, OS p4 glow plugs does not work on this mill at all. it lost alot of top end power. So use C4 plugs from GRP or even PLUS 4. I ran at JBRL race over the weekend, it was way so smooth and wow great overall performance. So I am not baggin or anything on some guys who were trying. But I want to thanks and let you all know this. I am looking foward to keep running this mill, i love it. after running V-Specs.. But I have to admit that V-Spec is a little ROUGH at bottom end. The GRP mill is very fast throttle response. |
Oh yeah I want to add this, I broke in the motor idling 4 tanks, and no more than half throttle about 3-4 more tanks going straight with big turns oval like laps.
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i am not at all certain of what you just said, but i think you are saying that Adam told you that this motor is to run at 250+, and that is OK/Normal? BUT will cool down "some" after break in?
I find that VERY hard to believe. I have been in pit lane when Adam has brought his car in after a main, and his came in at 190, and was telling his pit guy that it seemed to be lean bogging a bit. I dont know. Just seems odd to me. I will stick with the temps, mine seems to be running good at. That is normally about 180-190, occasionally hitting the 202 mark, if running low on fuel. That is just MY experience. As for glow plugs, the GRP 6 is just too cold. The GRP 4 is a good one, and the OS P4 has been working well for me. I have yet to try the P3, because I have not had any issues with the P4 yet. I guess, to each thier own. I dont know that anyone is "wrong". They are saying what is working for them. If someone else has the hot ticket, and you feel safe with that, then I say "run it"! Let us know how it all works out. |
depends on what temp gun you use, if you are using exergen it will show up around 190 but is realisticly its running 240, which is were this motor likes to run
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Originally Posted by cjm1126
(Post 4888240)
depends on what temp gun you use, if you are using exergen it will show up around 190 but is realisticly its running 240, which is were this motor likes to run
I spent quit a bit of $$ on this gauge, so if there is a more accurate gauge, and hopefully cheaper, I may want to switch. Personally, I dont tune just to temp. I do like to have something that is as accurate as can be though. |
The exergen gauge is excellent, probably the best. The only problem is that many others do read 10-40 degrees higher.
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I agree...when temped with anExergen, it will read 190-210 or so....any of the other temp guns could very well be showing much lower or much higher....my Raytek (a good temp gun) would show about 230 or so at the same time my buddy's Exergen showed 195...also, GRP 4 plugs are the ones I used with no issues. This mill definately runs cooler then other mills..kind of like a Radical (they ran cool as well)
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