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Some guys like the JP-3.
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dynamite 9853 works great
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the 9853 does work very well, and also the associated 2035 is really good on the engine also, the 2053 from the promo kit dosent really let the engine run like it does with those other 2 pipes
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Originally Posted by cjm1126
(Post 4790402)
the 9853 does work very well, and also the associated 2035 is really good on the engine also, the 2053 from the promo kit dosent really let the engine run like it does with those other 2 pipes
How would you compare a JP-3 to the pipe from the promo kit for this engine? |
Originally Posted by cjm1126
(Post 4790402)
the 9853 does work very well, and also the associated 2035 is really good on the engine also, the 2053 from the promo kit dosent really let the engine run like it does with those other 2 pipes
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grp info
this motor is a monster two must do's to get motor full performace. trash the plug it comes with get grp 4-5 plugs and trash the 2053 pipe i use jp3 and it was night and day difference when i switched. everone wants to know how long these motors last well i will tell u this i got mine dasy one when they came out. i am just about to crack open the seal and be on my 7th gallon. with absoltely no problems and on the same grp#4 plug. this motor has not missed a beat yet still as fast as it was after break in. whats even more amazing is i was new to nitro when i got this beast i did the reseach and trail and error when u fist start and still going on gallon seven to me that says somthing. of course i know this motor like the back of my hand now. tip to all new to this motor think oppiste when u tune do bottom first when u go to top just lean it so it clears on the longest stairght on your trak and u will be perfect. my hsn is like is close to being flush with probally a half turn in. my lsn is probally two turns out of the lsn housing
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Originally Posted by mixedguy
(Post 4796275)
this motor is a monster two must do's to get motor full performace. trash the plug it comes with get grp 4-5 plugs and trash the 2053 pipe i use jp3 and it was night and day difference when i switched. everone wants to know how long these motors last well i will tell u this i got mine dasy one when they came out. i am just about to crack open the seal and be on my 7th gallon. with absoltely no problems and on the same grp#4 plug. this motor has not missed a beat yet still as fast as it was after break in. whats even more amazing is i was new to nitro when i got this beast i did the reseach and trail and error when u fist start and still going on gallon seven to me that says somthing. of course i know this motor like the back of my hand now. tip to all new to this motor think oppiste when u tune do bottom first when u go to top just lean it so it clears on the longest stairght on your trak and u will be perfect. my hsn is like is close to being flush with probally a half turn in. my lsn is probally two turns out of the lsn housing
Hmm i was hoping the 2053 pipe that came with it would be a good match for the engine, since well, it came with the engine, anyhow i have a JP-3 if need be. |
I know a guy who has an Ofna 053 pipe on his engine and its off the wall!
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053 / 9853
I read somewhere the OFNA 053 is the equivalent to the Nova 9853, has anyone used both.. any feedback. thanks.
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I was just looking over my new tuned .21 5 port, it hasn't been installed or run yet, i noticed there is a little less than half a millimetre play in the crankshaft backwards and forwards(into and out-of the engine)? Is this normal?
My V spec with 2 gallons on it has this play but its about 1 whole millimetre, i never checked if it had it when it was new. Is this normal? |
my engine was the same way, once i put flywheel on it and tightened down the sliding back and fourth goes away
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Originally Posted by cjm1126
(Post 4796906)
my engine was the same way, once i put flywheel on it and tightened down the sliding back and fourth goes away
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Damn rain, got this shiny new GRP engine and pipe sitting in my 8ight that im dieing to break in and rain is on the cards for the next 5 days!
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yea the weather hasnt been good here either, dodging hurricanes at the moment
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is it tuesday yet? my GRP tuned .21 engine comes in tuesday. :D
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how long are the bearings lasting? I'm going on 5 gallons and all good so far but I'd rather replace them before they fail.
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Originally Posted by Gliptal
(Post 4809493)
how long are the bearings lasting? I'm going on 5 gallons and all good so far but I'd rather replace them before they fail.
my main bearing failed at about 3 1/2-4 gallons and took the whole engine..I would be changing the bearing out if I were you... I also agree with above...GRP 4 plug, 9853 pipe, and you are good to go with this mill...too bad my bearing ate mine:flaming: |
+1 with the GRP 4 plugs. Better idle reliability. Best engine I've ever run. I'm curious about the .28 for truggy. I'm thinking the .21 is plenty of power and will get better economy. Has anyone run both in their truggy? I've run both the JP 3 and the GRP pipe with my .21. I was lean bogging on top with the JP3. I think the stock pipe is easier to tune.
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Just ordering mine now , with the plugs im assumimg they are turbo (conical) ??
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yes, turbo head.
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Originally Posted by Geo Y-Rock
(Post 4810315)
+1 with the GRP 4 plugs. Better idle reliability. Best engine I've ever run. I'm curious about the .28 for truggy. I'm thinking the .21 is plenty of power and will get better economy. Has anyone run both in their truggy? I've run both the JP 3 and the GRP pipe with my .21. I was lean bogging on top with the JP3. I think the stock pipe is easier to tune.
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Hey guys, thinkin of getting one of these for my Kyosho MP777 WC.. anyone have experience with the GRP Promo Kit or just the Tuned .21 version of this engine in a K car? How does the combo perform?
:nod: Thank you :) |
I just brought a GRP .21 about three weeks ago. I did the break in and I'm having some issues with it bogging out in the middle of the acceleration curve. It's like it's running rich but if completely bogs out when I lean it any further. Once it's warmed up it's a scalded dog but once it cools off it does the same thing bogging out in the middle of the acceleration curve. Oh and how about this, it accelerates fine when the glow plug igniter is attached to the glow plug. I'm running OS p3 Ultra Hot glow plugs which a lot of guys recommend.
I've heard that the GRPs run cool and take about a gallon before it clears the break-in so please let me know if this will improve over time as I run more gas through it. HALP!!! |
Generally, if it runs better with the ignitor on, but not so well with it off, means the plug is bad. Try a new plug.
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reset your needles back to stock positions and put a new plug in there. Get her to run and warmed up and start tuning on the LSN until you get a steady idle, good take off, no bogging, etc, then tune the HSN. This mill likes a leaner bottom and slightly richer top end...you need to tune it with the LSN to get best results. You will know you are there when it will idle good, take off with a slight puff of smoke and pull through the RPM's with a good smoke trail. It will temp around 180-210. Once you get the LSN set right, it tends to keep a tune very well
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Hey, I want to know about GRP glowplugs.. are they fumiliar to OS glow plugs? i mean those number idfenction.. like number 3 to number7 and which one is highly recommened for a .21 grp 01 tuner engine combo that i just bought.. I am switching from OS vspec eb mods to GRP tuner.
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use the os p3 in the grp, the engine will run much better, the grp plugs make the engine finiky
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Originally Posted by DirtyDezPirate
(Post 4815115)
Hey, I want to know about GRP glowplugs.. are they fumiliar to OS glow plugs? i mean those number idfenction.. like number 3 to number7 and which one is highly recommened for a .21 grp 01 tuner engine combo that i just bought.. I am switching from OS vspec eb mods to GRP tuner.
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Ive read now, a few times, that GRP plugs are the best for GRP engine because they are specifically made for GRP turbo engines, so they have a perfect fit. I think its just a matter of finding the right heat range(plug) for the fuel and conditions your running in.
Im not %100 sure about this but OS plugs are made for not only their land running engines but also their airplane and boat engines also, so i dont think they would be as a good fit for GRP turbos. I realize the GRPs are twice as expensive but ive read also a few times now that they last a hella long time, i think OS plugs are fine to use if you are stuck without a GRP plug though. |
well if you look up losi and assoicated parts house, theyre much affordable than anywhere else.. i bought my grp .21 tuner 01 promo kit from them for only 440 with shipped and everything covered.. after tax.. it does come with tuner pipe that fits right for these engines.. So, im thinking of getting the GRP plugs maybe they are copied of O.S. plugs cause they both look much alike.
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I got my promo kit for $309 USD and it was $29USD for delivery from here
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...ducts_id=13053 |
Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
(Post 4815677)
I got my promo kit for $309 USD and it was $29USD for delivery from here
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...ducts_id=13053 They also have V-specs for $200. |
GRP .12 Touring
Hey GRP owners..
I purchased the GRP from http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...ducts_id=13052 Yeah delivery was within 4 days to Australia.. I've just started the run-in process as per the manual, ite been really easy to startup and break-in my only tip would be to lean the HSN about 1/2 turn and LSN 1/4 from factory, you may find the factory settings too rich to start it for the first time... so soon as you have it running... richen the needles back up again.. During the brake-in did you guys run 11 tanks total before tuning or just 6 ? Page 10 of the manual isn't really clear on this... i'll be doing to 11 tanks to be sure... |
Originally Posted by gtsum
(Post 4812383)
reset your needles back to stock positions and put a new plug in there. Get her to run and warmed up and start tuning on the LSN until you get a steady idle, good take off, no bogging, etc, then tune the HSN. This mill likes a leaner bottom and slightly richer top end...you need to tune it with the LSN to get best results. You will know you are there when it will idle good, take off with a slight puff of smoke and pull through the RPM's with a good smoke trail. It will temp around 180-210. Once you get the LSN set right, it tends to keep a tune very well
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Sure thing. You will find this mill does NOT tune like an OS engine. It is likely my favorite mill I have run yet - good (not brutal) low end, wicked mid range and a good top end...10 minute runtimes and low temps and keeps a tune...good luck!
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I just got a nice little surprise. Im four tanks into break-in and decide to pull the plug out for a closer look and to my surprise its a no.4 plug instead of the 6 that the manual says it comes with. Anyone else bought a .21 buggy promokit recently and got a hotter plug? Maybe they are shipping with the hotter plugs now?
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Originally Posted by Gliptal
(Post 4809493)
how long are the bearings lasting? I'm going on 5 gallons and all good so far but I'd rather replace them before they fail.
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Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4818886)
Wow 5 gals on the same bearings, good to hear. Does the front leak AT ALL?
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almost 2.5 gallons on mine and front bearing took a crap during the a-main this past sunday..I just had it tore down on saturday for new seals on the needleds and a inspection. but it wasnt leaking so I didnt change it. oh well putting in front and rear ceramics now should be here thursday.
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Does anyone know if the GRP plug is the same as the old Mugen Ninja plug? Both are made by GRP so I would think so. Everyone in on road is running the Ninja even in non GRP made motors due to its performance and longevity. Since the Ninja's will be getting scarce I would like to try the GRP's.
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