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Originally Posted by tristyn
(Post 5213435)
ZIXXER, Thanks for the response, I have run the fioroni clutch for quite awhile and the clutch shoes do look in great shape, but I do have the stock springs still in it. My last thought was to get the stiffer springs to allow it to spool up a little higher to help out with bottom end. Also I have heard the ofna 053 or DYNAMITE 053 work better with this engine. I will try both options next. Thanks!!!
no problem ..cant say for sure ...but i know the same thing plagued me ....i finally had to drop the fioroni ...it is a great clutch ...no doubt ...i got many gallons out of shoes and springs ...but in the end i had to get a 4 shoe aluminum clutch ...and never looked back ...the fioroni can work really good but it takes some fiddling ...it took my buddy i pit with to determine the springs wore out alot faster than the shoes ....but springs would be a cheap option .... |
anyone had trouble with a leaking crank case bearing?
my motor is brand new I have run about 1/2 tank through it and noticed fuel leaking underneath near the flywheel, havent pulled it apart but it seems to be coming from the crankcase bearing. :flaming: |
First Grp =1.5 gallons .....front seal failed ... no compression... ran lean
Second Grp=1.75 gallons ...lean ...dropped element an destroyed Third Grp= not broken in yet ..keeping fingers crossed. Horizon needs to get their shit straight. I am tired of them telling me backwarsd ass settings on these engines. I know they are bad ass engines but I am not the only one who is getting bad info from Horizon. I wasn't gonna say anything but it seems they are telling these backwards ass settings to everyone. I call Bullshit! |
On the subject of engine bearings will TKOs in the sizes of Rear Crank Bearing 14 x 25.4 x 6 and Front Crank Bearing, 7x19x6 be the correct size and drop right in?
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on tuning with the lsn/hsn, i have learned from experience and help on forums to no just rely on where the needles are. i turn them until it runs like it is supposed to. if you have two carbs from the factory and the taper of the needle is off a fraction those two carbs will tune a little different. sometimes if they are acting up it may be just a small leak somewhere, so be patient and check it out and you will get it.
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Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 5214201)
On the subject of engine bearings will TKOs in the sizes of Rear Crank Bearing 14 x 25.4 x 6 and Front Crank Bearing, 7x19x6 be the correct size and drop right in?
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r1harper, I don't normally rely on stock needle settings either but I just couldn't get the GRP.21 engine to run correctly (perform) SO i needed a base point to tune from. I have read several different forums on the GRP and several people have given their stock settings and they are almost all different . Makes me think GRP just turns them out from closed to a desired point and stop. My GRP.28 has been flawless and has a ton of power. in fact to much. I run 7k f, 15k c, 3k in the rear and at about 15mph if I crack it wide open the front end comes off the ground.
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tristyn, i hear on that. i have had some like that. at that point i walk away and do something else for a while then i rethink everything and go back at it.
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Originally Posted by r1harper
(Post 5216200)
tristyn, i hear on that. i have had some like that. at that point i walk away and do something else for a while then i rethink everything and go back at it.
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Anyone need a GRP .21 Ninja cooling head (used) or carburetor (used)
Just doing a little cleaning up in the garage and found these in the work bench...LOL :lol: http://www.tony1034.com/ts/4salenew/AIMG_0778.jpg http://www.tony1034.com/ts/4salenew/AIMG_0779.jpg If interested email me at [email protected] I'll make you a sweet deal on them. I can ship them: USPS First Class Mail USPS First Class Mail (International) USPS Priority Mail USPS Priority Mail (International) Thanks and best regards, Tony P. |
Ok Ive run into what i think could be a big problem while changing my crank bearings.
The rear fell out ok but in the process of knocking out the front one(while the engine was hot) it fell to peaces. Now just the outer ring of the bearing is stuck in the crankcase and it wont budge and theres pritty much no way of grabbing onto it/getting to it to pull/knock it out, that i can see anyway. Im thinking heating up the engine then getting an eye dropper with some freezing cold water and carefully dropping the water on whats left of the bearing? Any ideas? |
what are your guys opinions regarding the non tuned GRP? I already have a dynamite 053 pipe.
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good, little less torque and fuel mileage, but still a great motor
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is the bottom end decently strong? What kind of mileage am i looking at?
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its decent, your prob lookin at 8.5 min/tank MAYBE more
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I currently run a dynamite 21 so will it be better than that?
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ive never ran that motor so idk. actually ive never heard of it either.
im runnin rich on mine right now because im on break n still but i love my tuned grp, i have a lot of torque and like 10 min run times on rich settings |
it is based off of an SH motor.
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Originally Posted by fiveoboy01
(Post 5213270)
There is a nice tool called "search this thread"...
But to answer your question, the P3 works fine in it. |
Maybe try to find some sort of collet type tool at a good tool store near by. Or maybe ask/look for the same tool at machine shops, just drop in, be friendly, and ask if they can help you out with removing the bearing race.
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bearing removal
Jonro- this may sound odd but it works.
you will need some one that is a pretty good Tig welder, just weld a small bead all around the outer race where the balls ride and let cool, the weld will shrink the race and it should fall out. Tom |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 5229477)
Ok Ive run into what i think could be a big problem while changing my crank bearings.
The rear fell out ok but in the process of knocking out the front one(while the engine was hot) it fell to peaces. Now just the outer ring of the bearing is stuck in the crankcase and it wont budge and theres pritty much no way of grabbing onto it/getting to it to pull/knock it out, that i can see anyway. Im thinking heating up the engine then getting an eye dropper with some freezing cold water and carefully dropping the water on whats left of the bearing? Any ideas? |
Try heating the case from the outside w/ a micro torch, i have used this with success on motorcycle cases.Tigging sounds good too but I would try heating .....even and quick should do it .....Good Luck.
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Originally Posted by Joey Platinum
(Post 5243589)
Try heating the case from the outside w/ a micro torch, i have used this with success on motorcycle cases.Tigging sounds good too but I would try heating .....even and quick should do it .....Good Luck.
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Originally Posted by xpertpredator
(Post 5229595)
I currently run a dynamite 21 so will it be better than that?
I can tell you that the Tuned version has great power everywhere, and a super smooth delivery. Its the best engine I have used or driven with. If the Non Tuned is anything like the Tuned, you cant go wrong IMO. |
just an update ...been slow going on the break in ....rain here sucks ....got another 2 tanks through yesterday ...still no issues at all ....still the same o.d. 97t plug for 4 tanks :nod: am gonna try and blip a few more tanks through today if rain holds off......will have a funny youtube video up here in a bit ...no surprises yet ...this motor seems like it will be everything people say it is .....with all the time on my hands ...i may even go ahead and swap out the rear and front bearings with some tko's after about another half gallon ....later :tire:
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Anyone know if the GRP .21 non-tuned takes a turbo plug or standard? If its standard any problems with changing the button to the tuned turbo version?
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Originally Posted by Frank L
(Post 5247889)
Anyone know if the GRP .21 non-tuned takes a turbo plug or standard? If its standard any problems with changing the button to the tuned turbo version?
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i think that the button is made into the head on the silver head engine so you cant just get the button and change it, you would need a head to make it turbo.
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Originally Posted by Todd Green
(Post 5248000)
i think that the button is made into the head on the silver head engine so you cant just get the button and change it, you would need a head to make it turbo.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSR2035 |
ran my grp yesterday, and I think I found a problen with it that may have been for a while. I have noticed it has been hard to start lately. I was having to plug the stinger to get fuel to it. But I noticed after doing that there was some fuel coming out of the fuel nipple area. So I tightned it down and man does this thing run much better now. It is a rocket now and runs great.
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Originally Posted by itsshemp
(Post 5243667)
xpertpredator- Up until recently, I was running the Tuned GRP. It is an awsome engine! The tuned version is great quality, I cant imagine that GRP would cut too many corners in their non tuned version. I actually read "somewhere" drake (if I remember correctly) say the closest he could come to comparing the two, would be like a OS Speed to the V Spec. Both are awsome engines, just the tuned has a little more power, and fuel mileage is obviously better. Other than that, they are both great.
I can tell you that the Tuned version has great power everywhere, and a super smooth delivery. Its the best engine I have used or driven with. If the Non Tuned is anything like the Tuned, you cant go wrong IMO. |
GOOD NEWS FOR GRP FANS
man this looks like a great thing for the customer ....and they allready lowered the price everywhere on the motors and combos .....this was copied and pasted from neo buggy ,,,,,,,
Italian company GRP Gandini have announced drastic plans for 2009, including slashing prices by 40% and more. The 'Price Reduction Program' will come into effect in January and will result in removing some steps in the traditional distribution chain. GRP's site will sell products direct to the end-user, in a bid to save the company, as well as saving the end-consumer some cash. For more details Click Read more. GREAT NEWS FROM GRP FOR 2009 WORLDWIDE GRP’S PRICE REDUCTION PROGRAM This program will be launched officially by GRP starting from January 2009, to contribute to facing the serious worldwide crisis which is involving basically all sectors. Our idea is to make available on the market, all GRP products of our Tyres, Engines, and Gadgets lines, with the best quality ever, at very much reduced prices compared with our 2008 price list. This price reduction is possible by reducing to a minimum our margins, by removing some steps in the traditional distribution chain, and by accepting a reduction also of their margins by all those who will agree to our program. In this way we intend to widen the range of end-users, who will be able to purchase now, at advantageous prices, our top range products. The main points of our new GRP program are as follows: - Optimization and development of our current production unit in Guidizzolo, with a consequent further increase of our quality product. - Equalized retail prices all over the world. - An average retail price reduction by over 40%. - Purchasing of our products in all the hobby shops that will support our program. - Purchasing of our products from the new official GRP’s e-commerce. - Direct purchasing at race events whenever GRP’s staff is present. - Direct Technical Assistance on behalf of GRP, for any eventual technical problem under guarantee, and for the standard engine maintenance. - Direct Technical Assistance at race events whenever GRP’s staff is present. - Direct Technical Assistance on-line on behalf of GRP. All new retail prices will be published very soon on the new GRP’s website, together with all numerous novelties foreseen for 2009. Here some anticipation: - New .21 carburetor which improves fuel consumption and eases its carburetion. - New Tuned Engines, with various improvements in terms of material and treatments. - All Tuned Engines will be available on the market also fully run in and checked, ready to run. - New stiff and light wheels for 1:10 Touring tire line . - New big and light wheels for 1:8 Buggy tire line. - New shaped black inserts for 1:8 Buggy tire line. - New X compound (like PL’s M3), for 1:8 Buggy tire line. - New Cubic design for 1:8 Buggy. - New narrow Jolly design for 1:8 Buggy. The official presentation of all our new GRP products for 2009, and the launch of this new pricing program, will take place on the occasion of the coming Nuremberg Fair from 5th to 10th of February. Our new GRP e-commerce will be up and running starting from 15th of February. GRP srl Maurizio & Stefano Gandini |
wonder what that does for Horizon?
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These GRP motors have really impressed me. I will be picking up a powerhouse modded non tuned version in the next month after seeing/driving one last night. They are super smooth motors that have alot of power. And yes the head on the non tuned does not have a button so you cant put a turbo button in usng the same head, which there is no advantage of doing anyway.
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Originally Posted by underway
(Post 5278001)
wonder what that does for Horizon?
Originally Posted by Fierle03
(Post 5278093)
These GRP motors have really impressed me. I will be picking up a powerhouse modded non tuned version in the next month after seeing/driving one last night. They are super smooth motors that have alot of power. And yes the head on the non tuned does not have a button so you cant put a turbo button in usng the same head, which there is no advantage of doing anyway.
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Originally Posted by underway
(Post 5278001)
wonder what that does for Horizon?
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Originally Posted by AndyItalia68
(Post 5278334)
If GRP is not anymore part of "Horizon family" i think it will became hard to find them in the States. Am i wrong?
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The motor runs absolutely b-e-a-utiful. like posted in the powerhouse thread we went to ohio to run 1/8th buggy last night and he ran the GRP. It was brand new with very few tanks through it but tuned in in like 1 maybe 2 minutes and held the tune all night. The power delivery was so smooth and controlable but was super fast at the same time. It is really tuff to get into trouble with this motor due to the power delivery. I got to run it for a while and i'll tell ya what, after talking with Mark about better engines he and i both agree this is pretty much the best motor so far in terms of tunablility, drivability and longevity that he or I have ever owned. For like $260 bucks you cant beat it. I think it is better than the tuned and for less cash, its basically a steal. I got atleast one coming my way.
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Originally Posted by zixxer
(Post 5278365)
they will be available from grp amain carolinas rc ...i mean read the post i put up ...they are just doing away with there larger distributor ...as far as i could tell from what they stated
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