it is awesome as the rc guy now gets nice stuff at good prices ...unless there quality goes down .....

Does anyone know which type of Fiorini/OT cooling head (if any) will fit on the .21 mill? I don't particularly care for the bland silver one that comes with the non-tuned version.

GRP increasing idle
 

All,

I am running the GRP modified, and it runs great, but after revving and returning to idle, the idle starts increasing steadily, and keeps increasing until it is very high. Revving the engine about half throttle calms the idle down again briefly, but then it starts rising again.

I have tried tuning both needles (both ways) and the same with the idle screw, and cannot get rid of this problem. Richening the low end seems to work the best, but then the low end is too rich. (Note I always warm up the engine before trying to adjust any of the needles).

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Jonro ..did you get the bearing race out,and how??

sounds like it could be a air leak, try sealing everything with some air seal. carb, backplate, pinch bolt.

Is your throttle linkage pulling the slide open slightly? Pull off air filter and go from full throttle to brake and release.

I don't think anything is binding or rubbing, but I will check. My guess was an air leak too. I have already ordered some sealant. I will let everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks guys.

Make sure its not sucking air through the front bearing.Take the fly wheel off and spray some soapy water on the front bearing and spin the crank back and fourth. if you have bubble blowing up it has a air leak.Another racer showed me this trick and i found my air leak.

nice trick there ...and also it sounds like an airleak ....

carb
 

Have any of you guys used a different carb on a GRP. My carb is broken but I have OS, Novarossi, and a Vega carb will the motor run with a different carb. Thanks

Nah lol tried everything but it wouldent budge, so i just dumped it on my engine modder as he was going to be replacing the bearings and modding the engine anyway, he said it wouldn't a problem to get out, with the tools hes got.

Just got the engine back a couple of days ago and everything looks good, about give it a run now.

Zixxer,

What did you do to fix the air leak ... replace the bearing?

hey buddy didnt have an airleak:confused:but the trick about the saopy water around the bearing and watching for bubbles is good ...and if you did get bubbles i would say that would be what you would do ....:)

Sorry zixxer, I meant to address my question to white48rc ... :eek:

Make a long story short I had to replace the block and bearing.

Maybe this question been ask before.. how well the GRP .tuned .21 work with a JP-3 pipe?

anyone?
 

:confused:Anyone knows how to get in touch with GRP in regards to warranty?
I purchased a new GRP promo kit and the engine's piston went bad on the only 2nd tank of fuel.

If you got it a hobbyshop you should go back to them and see if they will contact Horizon Hobby for you about it, if you got it online then you will probably have to contact Horizon yourself.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/

Customer Service
1-800-338-4639

I finally got a few nice days with out rain and had a great day running my rc's. I made a couple of changes to the GRP.21. I replaced 2 of the standard springs for hard springs on the fioroni clutch and changed from the JP4 pipe to a dynamite 053. Man I cannot believe the difference. My GRP .21 now has great bottom end. I believe the problem I was having before was in the clutch. I built a track on the back of my propert a couple of years ago with a d4 cat and I use it for practice and tuning. At full race speed today I timed 4 full tanks lowest runtime was 11:10 and longest 11:30. Run time was in a Jammin x1x buggy. Engine is now very smooth with enough bottom to pitch it sideways on demand.

I have been looking at the GRP .21 engine and pipe combination. From what I have read it looks like a great engine. The person I met from Birmingham Alabama(I'm new to the area) told me he loves them and that recently many have switched to the GRP. I think maybe he drives for GRP.

At any rate I think I may shop with www.carolinasrc.com because it looks as if they have great specials and prices. I signed up for a email news special fromt hem and with the special code I can get the engine for $339 shipped. I'll be getting either a Losi or Mugen Buggy and all the stuff to go with it so If I can find better prices that would be great. Does this sound good to you guys?

What plug should I use?

I am guesing this is the only engine combo they make?

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=8766

sounds good buddy you in birmingham ...im guessing you spoke with alan burton? run a odonells 98t or a o.s. p-3 ...but do yourself a favor and read this whole thread before you decide ...some say after running an o.s. that you will have problems switching back to others ...i have seen also where some plugs will cause others not to seal right and cause problems ....im here near alabaster about 20 minutes to birmingham .. ive got the motor you are looking at and finishing up the break in ...im running odonells 98t's and have had the same one in there for the duration of the break in ...holler at me on personal message if you need any more help ...would be glad to help you out ....later

What about the price? How does that sound to you? I'm just gonna run the grp plugs even though they are a little more.

Yes it was Alan Burton I'm pretty sure. How does his engines look/sound during local meets?

Do y ou have a email for him?

Thanks for your help!

yeh price sounds right with shipping ...is that the combo or just the motor?
well he wins alot around here ...he is one of the true pro sponsered drivers around ...motor with the grp pipe doent have the sound you will be acustom to ....but will run all day at 185-190 on a full race tune and will get easily 10 and a half minutes if not 11 to 11 and a half ...you will be pleased ...just get some tips from burton or myself before you start to break it in and run it .....they tune a little different that what you probably use to

my email
[email protected]
alans email
[email protected]

\

yes sir, it's a motor pipe combo...

This one: http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=8766

I got this code(RCJAN930) for $30 off the engine.

I'll be in touch with ya!

sounds good for a combo thats a great price ...you will love that motor :nod:

Where's a good place to get a GRP pipe header combo for a good price?

www.carolinasrc.com

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=8766


Yep, great price! It showed backorder whn I ordered mine but I still had it in like 4 days!

Read up a few post and you can use a code for $30 off that engine combo!!!

this engine is GREAT. i finally was able to use it last night for like 5 min before ANOTHER servo went out on me o well.

but i got some tuning tips and it helped alot. i left the hsn at stock and leaned my lsn and this thing screams. i radared it at 46mph and it was a little rich yet but its still new so i want it rich. this and the vspec are my two favorite engines

losi racer, I hate to hear that about your servo's. Get with Billy or Casey at the pit and let them help you. They should never, ever go out like that...

chris wheeler has my car, he is going to fix it for me, he said i could have my carb at to much of an angle.

GRP Cooling Head
 

Did anyone ever post a response to an alternative cooling head for the GRP engine?? Just to get away from the stock head. I saw the question but didn't see any answer.

:tire:

any novarossi based head will fit. I have a old BF 3 port head on my GRP right now for brreaking the engine in.

Awesome engine, love the way it runs, idles all day long, never flames out, makes good smooth useable power and unbelievable run time. What more could you ask from a engine??:weird:

I just got my engine with a GRP #4 plug. Will this be okay to finish breaking in the engine or should I switch to a GRP #5 plug?

What would be the best method for break-in? Thanks in advance.

heat cycle method is the best :nod:if it will run with the :sweat:#4 it would be fine

I just noticed the same thing when I put my grp non tuned .21 in my 8ight 1.0 yesterday. I even had ground a bit off the side of the center diff to allow the carb to be straighter and it's still turned too much for my liking.

I did however machine the chassis to clear the 2.0 radio tray so I have that done and the tray installed now. I was hoping using the 2.0 tray would prevent any throttle servo problems and then I read you are killing servos.....:eek:

I will post a pic of my engine in a few so you can see the angle I had to set the carb at to clear the center diff.

Overhead and closeup shots of the angle of the carb:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/100_0035.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/100_0036.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/100_0039.jpg

This shot you can see where I had clearanced the top center diff plate to help out some:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/100_0038.jpg

Does this look normal guys?