i have been using the same hobbico w/meter for 2 years ....i think its taking a dump right now ....i got a long reach patriot rc brand ...it came with an 1800 mah battery ...but i will run a maxamps 4.4k 4400 in it ..thats what i ran in my other one and it will last months without charging .....the racers edge is nice and for that matter i was gonna get a long reach hotshot2 but it was like 7 bucks more than the one i got ..... sometimes the contact in the head gets out of wack ...my buddy put a piece of heat shrink on the inside of my old one to straighten it out and it worked like a champ for a long time .....just get a decent nimh high cap battery for it ....best thing you can do for a glow ignitor ...put some juice to it ...inmho

ill take a look at the pipe. and i guess ill start runnin the os from the start. i have like 20 p3 in my rc box

i noticed the grp plugs take alot of voltage to fire up also, the os fires up even if the glow ignitor is getting low, wasnt cool when i would go to start my car for the main and the engine wouldnt fire up, had to look around for different glow ignitors to see who had enough juice left in theres to fire it up

for anyone wanting to put the glow plug question to rest ...it is rested ...the odonells plugs work perfectly in the grp motor ...no problems at all....put 3 tanks on it today to get started breakin it in ....after dumping the way overpriced and non working out of the box grp plug it was smooth sailing ...the motor stayed at 217 degrees for most of all 3 tanks ....never missed a lick ...my buddy over at my house even said ...my god will that motor ever quit idling .....:nod:will probably get the rest of it done tomarrow ....will post on how it goes ....i should be putting some video of it up on youtube tomarrow night ....:tire::tire::tire::tire::tire:

Settings
 

What is the suggested needle settings on a the tuned motor, and what comes from the box?

Which Odonells plug did you use?

what size carb insert comes with the non tuned engine..thanks

i measured mine last night for another thread ...from the factory my needles were

hsn 3-1/2 turns out from bottom

lsn 6-1/4 turns out from bottom

originally thought i would have to lean it a bunch to get it started ...put only 1-1/2 turns in form factory on the lsn ...and 1/2 turn in from factory on the hsn ....fired right up ...didnt turn the needles a bunch after that ...just for break in ....

i used a 97t medium....after a little more fuel i will probably go to a 77t hot

they work great ....and last a long time :nod:

8mm and amains got it on sale for 219$:nod:

I got the non tuned version.. (.21)

Um, do I need to add any shims to the head if I'm goin to run 30%? :)

i got one from my lhs for $199

im not sure on the non tuned ...the tuned comes shimed for 30% i will do some digging around to see what i can find .....

You can always take the head off and see what shims are in there. If there are 2 you can take 1 out. If they are different thicknesses I think you take the thicker one, not sure though.

there is a guy at my local track who is on his 12th or 13th gallon. it has been pinched a couple times but his grp absolutely screams :eek:. whenever i have the money i will have one myself. :nod:

Alright, thanks.

if all goes well with the Non Tuned chances are I'll be picking up the tuned version in Spring :)

that was me. that motor sat and idled for at least an hour straight i think it died once during the entire day. i gotta say it did look promising. and yes the odonell plug worked like a champ:nod:.

I'm to lazy to go threw this entire thread. Does any one have a link to Adam Drake's WOT break in method? Thanks

you need to call burton ...he will tell you from racing on the same team as the drake ...the best way to break it in ....i went with it ...eventhough it was different than the way ive broke in my last 3 engines ....dont know if hes using the wot method any more ....? it was in an xtreme rc issue about 4 months ago ...i understand it ..but dont know if i will ever use it :deathstar

Just ordered my non-tuned .21 from amain today..just wondering what pipe your guys are running on this motor? thanks

053 dyn, 2053 grp, 2035 ttr ...is what ive seen people saying thye used on the tuned version ...would think they would hold to the non-tuned ....

jp 3 ive heard also

well i have my clutch set-up on my grp now just waiting till dec. 24th to get the 2.0... Im going to do the heat cycle(idle thru a couple tanks at 220, im going to let it do 4 tanks) then drive it around for for a couple tanks(1/4, 1/2,3/4, then full throttle blips) then take it to the track and start tuning it.



I was going to use my jp3 pipe and see how it did.


anyone have any different suggestions

Any updates on this question? I just got my non tuned version and it has 2 copper shims in the box. I run 30% OD.

Any help is appreciated.

Tony

I run the exact same fuel. You go with the GRP pipe/manifold? If so, lemme know how it works out :)

I can't really run mine though. need a new starter box.

I put 1 of the extra copper shims in only for breakin or about 3/4 gallon of fuel then removed it. I run a jp4 header with a dynamite 086 pipe this combo has good bottom but also lets the motor rip up quick! I run 30% byrons.

well ive seen alot of people say the 053 dyn pipe wakes the motor up a good bit ...less restrictive than the 2053 grp pipe ...im gonna try mine with the 053 after i get it all the way broke in ...which with the hollidays will probably not happen until week after new years:(

i just picked the 053 pipe up. ill let u know how it goes :)

grp
 

Can you guys help me out. I want to change the bearings in my GRP .21 do I have to use stock or is there a ceramic replacement. If so do you know where to get it and what size. Thanks

Rear Crank bearing 14 x 25.4 x 6
http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=157


Front Crank Bearing 7 x 19 x 6
http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=156

sorry no grp pipe. I have a range of JP pipes (1-4). I was gonna try one of these prior to picking up a dynamite 053, which I hear works good too.

will they replace the carb on my grp? my motor isnt even broken in. i moved the part that the throttle linkage connects to(ball end) and tighten the screw and the part the screw goes into twisted off the whole assembly. i wasnt even puttin a lot of torque on the screw either i was tighten it just a little more then snug

if u dont understand heres the carb on amain i need the thing on the very left of the carb

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/28030

losi racer, same thing happened on my grp.21 or grp.28. any how amain has the part in stock under the ninja.28 parts page. I also tightened very lightly and the collar broke.

thanks, im going to give horizion a call tommrow.

Anyone have any tips on tuning this beast? i heard its hard and different to tune??

i idle thru 6 tanks of fuel today but ran out of light so i couldnt drive it so im going to drive it more tommrow. ill prob do like 3 tanks and slowly leaning it out then go ahead and start tuning.

I have had some major tuning issues with the GRP.21. I am no pro tuner so I could use some help. I have had some experience with the jammin jpx.21 &.28, os vspec & a few others with good results, but I am currently running the GRP.21 in buggy & GRP.28 in truggy (JAMMIN X1X CR & X2 TRUGGY) The GRP.28 tuned very easily but the .21 has been frustrating. The problem I have is that it seems like it is always running very fat off the bottom until it hits the mid. My current needle settings are aprox. 3 3/4 on HSN and 5 on LSN. If I lean out the top much more it continues to flame out. If I fatten the hsn back and lean out the lsn then it sounds lean and has little bottom end. I have tried to keep temps arround 190 -205. I run a fioroni turbo slider clutch, 13 tooth cb and a jammin jp3 or jp4 pipe(most the time the jp4 as it seems to help the bottom a little more. I have tried the c6 ,c5 ,c4 GRP plugs. I run BYRONS GEN2 30% and have tried running it with 1 extra shim and also stock shim set up. I have researched this thread and a lot of guys are running totally different needle settings. some say 3 1/2 hsn & 5 1/2 LSN & some are 6 hsn & 2 1/2 lsn. 2 1/2 lsn just seems way to lean and 6 to fat to even fire. Although when I called horizon hobbies for stock settings they gave me 6hsn & 2 1/2 lsn. HAVING 1 HECK OF A TIME WITH THIS ENGINE any thoughts or input would be appreciated. THANKS

I have the GRP Tuned .28 in my X2 CRT with the GRP pipe, #5 plug on 30% with 1 head shim.
So much power nothing will touch it in a drag up the straights, but with no carb restrictor it tends to load up with fuel. I need to lean the low end out to be sure of getting off the line without a flameout.
Leaner than I would prefer but it hasn't affected its reliability.
Sure I've only run about 30/35 tanks through it but when I pull it down for inspection it still looks new.
Dont be afraid of this motor....

most of the tuning comes in from the lsn ...its kinda reversed from most engines ...from what i understand ...i have not ran mine at race tune ...but have seen plenty of them at the track ...all temping at 180-210 and running good ....i will go out on a limb and say your not gonna touch the top end alot ....mostly the bottom ....will know more as i get more fuel on it

you have your settings very close to stock ...someone said horizon=retards ...in an effort to dispell any rumor about stock needle settings ...i measured mine brand new out of the box ....never touched
hsn=3-1/2 turns out from bottom
lsn= 6 to 6-1/2 turns out from bottom

the lsn looks like another turn and it will fall out ....this being said when braking in ...i had to lean the lsn 1/2-3/4 of a turn and the hsn i left alone ...and could idle it for like hours ..again im not broke in yet so i wont know fully till i am ....also consider the fioroni clutch(which i ran my first full year of nitro ...they work ok and are low m/a ...but i had them cause some problems on the low end when i was running gotechs ....do you have all standard springs on it ? if so ...you may wanna try 1 standard in the front and 1 standard and 1 hard in the rear ...possibly even 1 hard up front and 1 standard and 1 hard in the rear ..also if youve been running them for longer than 3-5 races becuase you thought they never wear out ..trust me they do wear out allthough the shoes dont ...was just a thought ...also you may try an 053 pipe none efra as many have said it wakes the bottom up ...im breaking in with the grp 2053 then going directly to the 053 as it has less restriction ....hope that helped anyways ...later :nod:

got some more fuel on my standard GRP in my xt8 and it is feeling good. i am running the original Ninja pipe the 2053 i think with a nova header and it is really good.

plugs
 

Help me out, Is the GRP turbo plug the only that works in this motor or can I use a P3, novarossi, O'donnell, etc. thanks Marcus

There is a nice tool called "search this thread"...

But to answer your question, the P3 works fine in it.

that search button is just way to easy :nod::lol:

the grp , o.s., and odonellsplugs will all work ....cant say about any others ...havent used any others than those ...or seen them used

ZIXXER, Thanks for the response, I have run the fioroni clutch for quite awhile and the clutch shoes do look in great shape, but I do have the stock springs still in it. My last thought was to get the stiffer springs to allow it to spool up a little higher to help out with bottom end. Also I have heard the ofna 053 or DYNAMITE 053 work better with this engine. I will try both options next. Thanks!!!