I havent tried the od plug in my grp but I do run them in the rb s7, the standard 99 and they work great

no doubt ...i started runnin em in my gotech's and man they just work ....or well better for me than anything else out there :cool:

I use an OS p7 plug in my GRP .21 tuned (I just like to run medium plugs). I have used a p7 plug since the engine was new and have never had a problem. This engine now has 5+ gallons of fuel through it and it still runs strong. Also I notice no difference when I switch to a GRP plug. Personally I like OS plugs over any other brand. In my opinion they last longer and tune easier. I don’t know what the big deal with non GRP plugs not sealing as well in GRP engines is.

GRP Ninja head button problem
 

Just wanted to comment on spitting fuel out of head button. I own 3 GRP Ninjas. Two are .28 and one is a .21 . Two of the engines would only use OS plugs and ninja plugs with no leaking. The other one would only use Ninja plugs, all OS plugs would leak . My buddy I race with has a Ninja .28, and his leaks with OS plugs but not with Ninja plugs. After this many GRP engines, and this many issues, I figure there has to be a factory defect with the head button. Its a good thing I love the way they run , and the 10 gallons I got on the .21.

Thanks for the info Zixxer. My motor is not new and the guy before me ran the GRP plugs. :mad: I might have to buy me another button. It will save me money in the long run.

try some diff brands as it wont hurt it ...but you know what to look for....:nod:

grp 28 pipe
 

hey guys im wondering whos had good results with 053 or 086 pipes. Ive got it geared well for the power just wondering on pipe selection.

just got mine today and i dont see alot of difference in the 2053 that comes with it and my 053dyn ...but im sure there are internal differences ...try em both and post up ...i have the 053 and 086 wouldnt mind trying em out .....

Only difference I know of between the Ofna 053 and the GRP2053 is the latter is EFRA legal...The Ofna is not. The 053 will probably perform better, maybe at the cost of fuel mileage depending on your trigger finger.

grp 28 pipe
 

thanks guys anyone tried the os 2050 with the 28

I have the DYN 053. What pipe will give me good power and good mileage and not cost more than my buggy? This is for the .21 tuned.

I run the JP-3, good overall power and just about 11 minutes with the 6mm restrictor.

I really like this engine, the power delivery is very linear and smooth, unlike my JPX .28 which was an on/off switch:lol: It also runs very cool.

any tips with this motor? ive been racin a used 1.0 8ight w/ the mach 427 and just sswitched to the go .21. But i just bought a 8ight 2.0 im going to start racin after the first of the year and i bought a GRP .21 tonight and will prob start breakin it in around christmas time.

btw, what pipe runs good with this? im going to order the 6 mm carb restrictor. and i wanna get the best fuel mileage possible. i have the factory team exhaust now, but i also have a jp 3 and 2

heres a link to the factory team exhaust
http://www.impaktrc.com/images/ASC89...GGY_CHROME.jpg

i used the associated 2035 on mine when i was running that engine, it was really strong and good on fuel, i liked the 6.5mm restrictor better then the 6.0, another good choice on pipe is the 9853/053 pipes they work really well on this engine, i used the grp pipe that come in the promo kit and i couldnt get the performance i was looking for

thats what i was thinking ...i mean the dyn053 looks like a carbon copy of the 2053 grp ....so does the efra rating mean that the internals are different ....i mean the grp pipe looks nice and shinny ..but i mean the dyn053 hard coated looks infinitely more durable ....im gonna at least try it ...i mean how much less fuel mileage could i get .....????

i think it will work great

i have the original Ninja pipe...how is it different than the grp pipe.

The GRP engine tool set is the best thing ever. 5 minutes and the motor was completely torn down, and bearings removed.

if you have the ninja 2053 fls its the same exact pipe as the grp

Well, my GRP .21 dropped the bottom of the piston after about 3 gallons this weekend:mad: It was a good motor for fuel mileage, but simply did not have enough bottom end poop for truggy after everything I tried. Tried stock 2053, JP1, JP3, and settled on 2035, and up in spur down in pinion.

So long GRP, it's been a fun venture, but I need more bottom end poop for my truggy.

Anyone that would like some GRP parts PM me. I have a 2053 pipe Case, Carb, Back plate, Crank, and Head that will go to eBay shortly. I'll gladly sell here first. Let me know what you are interested in I can send you pics we can talk price.

can you take a picture of the idle screw side of the carb as it came of the engine? How much for the carb?

thanks!

AB

Alan, YGPM, don't be shy on an offer.

They do make a .28:)

mine had plenty of power for my truggy, i found that you have to tune a little more with the lsn then the hsn

Wow, they make a .28, wish I knew that before I bought the .21:lol:

And yes I understand how to tune. Trust me it's not the tune.:rolleyes:

This engine is great, not putting it down. No one should have to run a .28 for the bottom end poop I now am looking for in a truggy. In a buggy this thing would kick ass. Maybe I got a lemmon. Not sure... moving on...:nod:

i am happy with the bottom of the .21 i have in the truggy. 1 more day, and i will be on my second piston and sleeve for the buggy. almost 9 gallons, I'm happy with it. Also get to see if TKO ceramics will give it anymore power.

delete

My GRP has does not produce bottom end poop. Anything I suspect produces poop, I would figure to be from/on bottom end, but I personally see nothing in the form of poop being useful on the racetrack.(being a smart a$$:lol:)

I dunno, the two guys in my club who run the GRP .21(one in a MBX5T and the other in an 8IGHT-T) do nothing but dominate everyone every weekend. Their trucks seem to have plenty of bottom end.

I had a JPX .28 in my jammin truggy, one time myself and one of them exited the last turn to a very long straight and we were dead even the entire time. Maybe something was wrong with your motor even.

Anyone know where I can get this tool set? Haven't seen it for sale anywhere.

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...dproduct=10023


It will make it to ya before the weekend. Let me see if I have some discount codes in any of my emails....

desert...

The guy wanting the carb has not gotten back to me.


I would like to see the idle screw and it's location though..

If ya can post a pic on here.

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here's a pic of the carb.

thanks;)

I was wanting to look at your idle screw setting. Thats cool...

Oh, well you can barely see it in there. I could have told you how many turns:confused: close to 4. What are you thinking?

4 turns out from closed or 4 turns in?

Not saying this is the case with you but a lot of guys tune the engine good or atleast it runs without flaming. It runs good and makes decent power, gets ok runtime. In the end life is cut short and the motor is not at it;s full potential because it's tuned with a "rich" bottom needle and a "lean" top needle, not the way this engine was designed to run.

So, it's easy to just look at the idle screw...if it's ran a pretty good ways in you know they got a rich bottom. If it's out pretty close to the outside(approx 2mm from flush), then you know the bottom was set correct. Or close.

I see all the time guys who say they are awesome and running 240. I know the engine is flip flopped with the needles. I have never seen a properly tuned one run over 200-205, with most cases being about 190 ish.

It's not a hard to tune engine, it's not finicky, once tuned I very rarely ever turn needles. Not all motors tune the same. So I think some guys get used to a vspec and then try there best to make this engine sound and tune like that.

Again, this may not be the case with you, just an observation on my part in the past;)

I have to agree 110%. I see guys here that have always ran nova, vzb, or RB and think that the motor has to get around 230. I dont know how many times i have came in after a 10 minute qualifer and have my pit guy say 180, and drivers around me saying its to rich on the way down the ramp. This becomes funny because i normally am in the top 3 of my classes.

1 driver here was always running his GRP around 240, and i asked him to let me tune it. I got his temps around 190, and he said it had more power then it ever had.

About 4 turns out form closed. 2mm from flush sounds about where it was. LSN was 5.75 out from closed with the slide pulled out.

Yeah always ran 185 to 195 after I learned in the very beginning this motor's massive head deceives the temp. I also learned it would flame with a rich bottom, and would let you lean it out to a sick lean bog on top before I got to 240 temp range. I never had to move the needles more than 4 hours. More like 2 max either way.

Not sure why the bottom of the piston litterally fell off, but it did.

I'm glad I see others had those engine temps, 180/190.. my GRP .21 in my PE ran those temps all summer and ran great also.. took two 1sts, and two 2nds and 2nd for the season. 5 race season..

alan the stock needle (lsn) setting looks super rich as you had told me ...what would would be a good starting point if im breaking the motor in on the lsn ....how many turns out from bottom ...or how many turns in from flush ...stock it looks like it will take 3 full turns to get it flush ....thanks v.i.p.