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mine is a little more angled but that looks pretty good
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I also noticed that when comparing the grp carb to my novarossi carbs that the grp is definitely bigger in size. The whole slide and carb boot assembly is considerably bigger in OD. This too contributes to the grp carbs having to be angled soo much compared to others I've ran. So now I noticed that I guess the grp setup is about the best it's going to get.....:nod:
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Looks like your carb boot is rubbing yout center diff top plate thingy.
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Originally Posted by Chill_Will
(Post 5331473)
Looks like your carb boot is rubbing yout center diff top plate thingy.
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Originally Posted by MattP
(Post 5331585)
It is barely touching it and doesn't even push the boot in any. The carb opens and closes perfectly like it is and I'm not going to angle it anymore for sure.
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Originally Posted by karnao
(Post 5331844)
i had this problem..check it often, when the chassis flexes it might rub the corner of the center diff. i was constantly getting holes in the carb boot, even though it didnt look close at all.
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Originally Posted by zixxer
(Post 5333281)
+1 i dont drive a losi ...but that looks like trouble ...looks like its gonna rub the thingy :blush:
On another note: How many shims does everyone use with their GRP .21's? I'm currently breaking in the GRP Non Tuned .21 in my losi and I added one extra 0.1mm shim before I started it just to take a tad bit of compression away. I'm running 30% fuel right now. Are the non tuned engines shimmed from the factory for 30%? So once I finish break in should I remove that extra shim? |
from what i have read on the turbo plug engines, add the extra shim for break in and remove after roughly a gallon. i left the extra shim in just for insurance!
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Originally Posted by MattP
(Post 5390917)
I ended up pulling the engine and clearancing the center diff top plate a little more so even with the chassis flex the boot doesn't touch at all now.....:nod:
On another note: How many shims does everyone use with their GRP .21's? I'm currently breaking in the GRP Non Tuned .21 in my losi and I added one extra 0.1mm shim before I started it just to take a tad bit of compression away. I'm running 30% fuel right now. Are the non tuned engines shimmed from the factory for 30%? So once I finish break in should I remove that extra shim?
Originally Posted by tallyram
(Post 5391892)
from what i have read on the turbo plug engines, add the extra shim for break in and remove after roughly a gallon. i left the extra shim in just for insurance!
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I broke in my tuned promo yesterday using the heat cycle method. I used a 10th scale foam to insulate the cooling head like Drake suggested and that really works. My car was spitting fuel and barely taking off and still temping slightly over 200. It wouldn't stay running on the initial startup because the original glow plug was shot right out of the box. After about 10 3-4 minute cycles, I put a moderate race tune on it and let her scream a little. I love the way this motor sounds. I'm a Nova guy so the smoothness of this engine was very different, but I know that its smoothness will actually be more beneficial on the track. The compression after a third of a gallon isn't as tight as the nova's, but in my experience with high end motors, most of them are like this but they go on to get 10+ gallons and never miss a beat. Too much compression is just unnecessarily hard on the crank pin and rod. I look forward to running this engine this season.
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...2/PICT0030.jpg http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/d...2/PICT0007.jpg |
Hello all, looking for input on the tuned grp promo package. I have only had 1 grp motor ever and it was mugen ninja bo1a, I loved it. Strong smooth usable power but was only disappointed in 1 area, the runtime. I used the recommended pipe and ninja glow plugs but could just barely get 8 mins to a tank in a mbx5r. Is the grp tuned 21 in the promo kit really any better? I have read a lot of testimonials on how these motors get excellent fuel mileage, the same was with the ninja and I never saw it. I know there are a lot of variables but some motors have a reputation to get great fuel economy no matter what the conditions such as the v-spec. Not looking to get flamed but just some good, honest feedback. The price of the promo kit has made it more reasonable to try this motor out, they are on sale everywhere I shop. Also I would be dropping the promo kit in an mbx6 buggy and as some know the chassis is kind of a tight fit when it comes to pipe and manifold selection, so with this being said does the grp pipe and header fit without any major mods? Thanks .
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You will love the grp tuned. It gets very good run time. I run the grp 053 pipe and it makes awesome power. I run it on a mbx6 and it fits well
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you will love this motor and yes run time is excellent before i ran the grp i had run novarossi and a sirio and the way i drive is alittle heavy on the trigger finger 7.30 miniutes was all i could get no matter what i did. i droped the grp in the exact same car and was getting 10 min. no problem i could not believe it :nod:
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
(Post 5402268)
Hello all, looking for input on the tuned grp promo package. I have only had 1 grp motor ever and it was mugen ninja bo1a, I loved it. Strong smooth usable power but was only disappointed in 1 area, the runtime. I used the recommended pipe and ninja glow plugs but could just barely get 8 mins to a tank in a mbx5r. Is the grp tuned 21 in the promo kit really any better? I have read a lot of testimonials on how these motors get excellent fuel mileage, the same was with the ninja and I never saw it. I know there are a lot of variables but some motors have a reputation to get great fuel economy no matter what the conditions such as the v-spec. Not looking to get flamed but just some good, honest feedback. The price of the promo kit has made it more reasonable to try this motor out, they are on sale everywhere I shop. Also I would be dropping the promo kit in an mbx6 buggy and as some know the chassis is kind of a tight fit when it comes to pipe and manifold selection, so with this being said does the grp pipe and header fit without any major mods? Thanks .
|
Originally Posted by jpz_67
(Post 5402268)
Hello all, looking for input on the tuned grp promo package. I have only had 1 grp motor ever and it was mugen ninja bo1a, I loved it. Strong smooth usable power but was only disappointed in 1 area, the runtime. I used the recommended pipe and ninja glow plugs but could just barely get 8 mins to a tank in a mbx5r. Is the grp tuned 21 in the promo kit really any better? I have read a lot of testimonials on how these motors get excellent fuel mileage, the same was with the ninja and I never saw it. I know there are a lot of variables but some motors have a reputation to get great fuel economy no matter what the conditions such as the v-spec. Not looking to get flamed but just some good, honest feedback. The price of the promo kit has made it more reasonable to try this motor out, they are on sale everywhere I shop. Also I would be dropping the promo kit in an mbx6 buggy and as some know the chassis is kind of a tight fit when it comes to pipe and manifold selection, so with this being said does the grp pipe and header fit without any major mods? Thanks .
Originally Posted by jyfz2
(Post 5402853)
you will love this motor and yes run time is excellent before i ran the grp i had run novarossi and a sirio and the way i drive is alittle heavy on the trigger finger 7.30 miniutes was all i could get no matter what i did. i droped the grp in the exact same car and was getting 10 min. no problem i could not believe it :nod:
rc8 at the time :nod: |
the tune makes a big difference! my bo1a gets better mileage than a friends vspec, but another friends vspec gets better mileage than my bo1a. also seems like if the bottom is a little rich, it makes a noticeable difference in mileage for the worse!
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I run a GRP .21 in a JAMMIN x1x buggy and a GRP .28 in a X2 truggy. The GRP.28 runs flawless, tons of power, good run time and I rarely touch the needles. My .21 has been a pain in the but. I run a fioroni turbo clutch on both and have recently went to stiffer springs on the clutch and changed from a JP3 and JP4 pipe to a dynamite 053 pipe. Helped out a bunch on the bottom end. The other problem I have had since after break in is at aprox. 1/4- 1/2 throttle it sputters like the bottom is real rich but if I lean the bottom it starts to rev like a lean bog. I have only ran GRP plugs (C5 & C4) once I hit1/2 through wide open it cleans out and runs like a s.o.b. My current needle positions are aprox. 4 1/4 on HSN and 4 3/4 on LSN. I'm stumped, my run time on these settings are parox. 11 - 11 1/2 min. My gut tells me my glow plugs are not burning properly. ANY ADVISE would be appreciated.
THANKS |
Originally Posted by tristyn
(Post 5404927)
I run a GRP .21 in a JAMMIN x1x buggy and a GRP .28 in a X2 truggy. The GRP.28 runs flawless, tons of power, good run time and I rarely touch the needles. My .21 has been a pain in the but. I run a fioroni turbo clutch on both and have recently went to stiffer springs on the clutch and changed from a JP3 and JP4 pipe to a dynamite 053 pipe. Helped out a bunch on the bottom end. The other problem I have had since after break in is at aprox. 1/4- 1/2 throttle it sputters like the bottom is real rich but if I lean the bottom it starts to rev like a lean bog. I have only ran GRP plugs (C5 & C4) once I hit1/2 through wide open it cleans out and runs like a s.o.b. My current needle positions are aprox. 4 1/4 on HSN and 4 3/4 on LSN. I'm stumped, my run time on these settings are parox. 11 - 11 1/2 min. My gut tells me my glow plugs are not burning properly. ANY ADVISE would be appreciated.
THANKS |
Zixxer - Thanks for your help. I didnt get a chance to try it yet but I should this week. I got to get it right for Cullman. :nod:
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Originally Posted by Chill_Will
(Post 5405338)
Zixxer - Thanks for your help. I didnt get a chance to try it yet but I should this week. I got to get it right for Cullman. :nod:
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I thought the GRP's were gonna come down in price with this new pricing plan. Amain price has gone up to 359.99:cry:
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Originally Posted by zixxer
(Post 5405473)
you runnin truggy or buggy or both ...no prob on the help part ...i love rc stuff ..im just glad some peps ran these motors before we did and figured em out for us .....:nod:cant wait for cullman
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Thanks for all the replies everyone I am still trying to decide, not ready to pull trigger just yet. Wouldnt you know as soon as I take interest in something the price goes up. The promo kits were on sale for 369.99 before discount at amain and now there back up to 445.00!!
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Because everybody bought them.
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:nod: dang i got a SMOKIN deal last month from Amain.
the promo kit for $299! somehow when i ordered the motor only..it was backordered and i was still able to order it... a guy from Amain called me and said they would ship the promo kit for the same price as the sale they had going on the motor only.. i love the GRP pipe...not having shaped gaskets connecting the pipe and the header is awesome!! :nod: many thanks to Amain's customer service! |
the new price plan when buying directly from GRP, and that does not go into effect untill febuary 15th. Thats what the article on NEO said.
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I need some expert advice. I screwed up the rod in my GRP from what looks like a stray plug element and it chewed up the the rod end at the crank and took out the bushing and also chewed up the backplate quite badly. It also took a few small chunks out of the piston, but aside from that the sleeve looks fine also the case looks ok with just a few metal shavings laying in it.
Ive included some pics to help you get a look at it(Ignore the time stamp, the cam is not set up properly): [IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1028.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1032.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1035.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1015.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1019.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1020.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1021.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1022.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1023.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1024.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1025.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1026.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1027.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1030.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1031.jpg[/IMG] To fix it would need a new rod, backplate, piston and crank. At the end of the day if i need to replace all that and with the amount of fuel through it(around 20ltrs)it would probably be cheaper to just salvage the ceramic bearings and carb and buy a GO engine or something. |
Originally Posted by Chill_Will
(Post 5405991)
I don't have Truggy yet so it will just be buggy. I hope.
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Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 5407028)
I need some expert advice. I screwed up the rod in my GRP from what looks like a stray plug element and it chewed up the the rod end at the crank and took out the bushing and also chewed up the backplate quite badly. It also took a few small chunks out of the piston, but aside from that the sleeve looks fine also the case looks ok with just a few metal shavings laying in it.
Ive included some pics to help you get a look at it(Ignore the time stamp, the cam is not set up properly): [IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1028.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1032.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1035.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1015.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1019.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1020.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1021.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1022.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1023.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1024.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1025.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1026.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1027.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1030.jpg http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_PICT1031.jpg[/IMG] To fix it would need a new rod, backplate, piston and crank. At the end of the day if i need to replace all that and with the amount of fuel through it(around 20ltrs)it would probably be cheaper to just salvage the ceramic bearings and carb and buy a GO engine or something. |
+1, that engine is toasted!
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Originally Posted by underway
(Post 5405514)
I thought the GRP's were gonna come down in price with this new pricing plan. Amain price has gone up to 359.99:cry:
Engine kits from 330 to 250 euro -25% Buggy tyres from 20 to 12 euro -40% Engine tool kit from 139 to 80 euro -42% The new pricing policy will start somewhere in february. I don't know what the situation will be in North America but I think you can expect the same sort of discount. |
From the NEO buggy article
Italian company GRP Gandini have announced drastic plans for 2009, including slashing prices by 40% and more. The 'Price Reduction Program' will come into effect in January and will result in removing some steps in the traditional distribution chain. GRP's site will sell products direct to the end-user, in a bid to save the company, as well as saving the end-consumer some cash. For more details Click Read more. GREAT NEWS FROM GRP FOR 2009 WORLDWIDE GRP’S PRICE REDUCTION PROGRAM This program will be launched officially by GRP starting from January 2009, to contribute to facing the serious worldwide crisis which is involving basically all sectors. Our idea is to make available on the market, all GRP products of our Tyres, Engines, and Gadgets lines, with the best quality ever, at very much reduced prices compared with our 2008 price list. This price reduction is possible by reducing to a minimum our margins, by removing some steps in the traditional distribution chain, and by accepting a reduction also of their margins by all those who will agree to our program. In this way we intend to widen the range of end-users, who will be able to purchase now, at advantageous prices, our top range products. The main points of our new GRP program are as follows: - Optimization and development of our current production unit in Guidizzolo, with a consequent further increase of our quality product. - Equalized retail prices all over the world. - An average retail price reduction by over 40%. - Purchasing of our products in all the hobby shops that will support our program. - Purchasing of our products from the new official GRP’s e-commerce. - Direct purchasing at race events whenever GRP’s staff is present. - Direct Technical Assistance on behalf of GRP, for any eventual technical problem under guarantee, and for the standard engine maintenance. - Direct Technical Assistance at race events whenever GRP’s staff is present. - Direct Technical Assistance on-line on behalf of GRP. All new retail prices will be published very soon on the new GRP’s website, together with all numerous novelties foreseen for 2009. Here some anticipation: - New .21 carburetor which improves fuel consumption and eases its carburetion. - New Tuned Engines, with various improvements in terms of material and treatments. - All Tuned Engines will be available on the market also fully run in and checked, ready to run. - New stiff and light wheels for 1:10 Touring tire line . - New big and light wheels for 1:8 Buggy tire line. - New shaped black inserts for 1:8 Buggy tire line. - New X compound (like PL’s M3), for 1:8 Buggy tire line. - New Cubic design for 1:8 Buggy. - New narrow Jolly design for 1:8 Buggy. The official presentation of all our new GRP products for 2009, and the launch of this new pricing program, will take place on the occasion of the coming Nuremberg Fair from 5th to 10th of February. Our new GRP e-commerce will be up and running starting from 15th of February. GRP srl Maurizio & Stefano Gand... |
rebuild
i have a grp tuned .21 motor. ran it all last year about nine ten gallons on it. great motor loved it. needs a rebuild piston sleeve rod. is it worth rebuilding with this much fuel through it. motor ran prefect never missed a beat. just dont know if it would be worth time and money to rebuild or buy another. has anyone rebuilt one yet?
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Does anyone have the measurements for the GRP manifolds?
Like this but GRP: http://rsb.se/arena/attachment.php?a...8&d=1234345540 The thing is that i got the old Ninja MR21 made by GRP and i want to move the pipe inward, the one i got now is the old Ninja manifold made by GRP. Its 82mm wide. The car is Mugen MBX6 and ye it is tight. :) http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...BX634liten.jpg |
Jonro, Hate to tell you this, but the tune was off on that engine.
The piston has been cooked, and detination from being lean,and more than likely the lean condition has hammered the rod bushing out and changed the compression and timing, which in turn burnt the glow plug out. I would not salvage anything out of that engine other than the carb and head! Adam Drakes tune on this engine is: .045 in from flush Hsn .045 out from flush Lsn .030 in from flush, idle screw 6mm restrictor GRP 5 plug ( I run a GRP 4 plug) 2053 GRP pipe The engine will run between 150 to 190 degrees(nitrotane,30%) Good Luck |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 5407028)
At the end of the day if i need to replace all that and with the amount of fuel through it(around 20ltrs)it would probably be cheaper to just salvage the ceramic bearings and carb and buy a GO engine or something.
|
Originally Posted by tom yfz
(Post 5417960)
Jonro, Hate to tell you this, but the tune was off on that engine.
The piston has been cooked, and detination from being lean,and more than likely the lean condition has hammered the rod bushing out and changed the compression and timing, which in turn burnt the glow plug out. I would not salvage anything out of that engine other than the carb and head! Adam Drakes tune on this engine is: .045 in from flush Hsn .045 out from flush Lsn .030 in from flush, idle screw 6mm restrictor GRP 5 plug ( I run a GRP 4 plug) 2035 GRP pipe The engine will run between 150 to 190 degrees(nitrotane,30%) Good Luck |
Miller Time, yes those measurements are in inches, NOT mm.
The only one that is protruding is the lsn, it sticks out from the throttle ball mount. The other two are measured, from flush to recessed (below the surface) It should just need minor tuning from those settings (air density,temperature,clutch springs etc.) Good luck Tom |
Originally Posted by tom yfz
(Post 5419196)
Miller Time, yes those measurements are in inches, NOT mm.
The only one that is protruding is the lsn, it sticks out from the throttle ball mount. The other two are measured, from flush to recessed (below the surface) It should just need minor tuning from those settings (air density,temperature,clutch springs etc.) Good luck Tom |
Mr Losi is correct.
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