On a normal engine it usually isnt hard. Put tinfoil on the head, or just lean the top a little. Any more answers on my q up a few posts?

For break in idle a few tanks through it with the head wrapped to keep the heat in then throw it down on the driveway/street. keep it kinda rich and just varry the throttle driving around.

oh and make sure you preheat the motor, its very important you do that. It will make the internals expand and prevent putting a lot of strain on the con rod, piston and sleeve.

yeah I was planning on wraping the head with foil and using my heat gun. I just want to this engine to last the rest of the season

same I am going to try and do this heat cycle method. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Wrap head in aluminum foil and preheat o 180-200
Start the car and let it sit a minute or so and get temps up and keep an idle.
Put the car down and run it for 3 minutes varying throttle and keeping temps at 200
Bring it in and let it cool at BDC(Repeat step 5 times)
Take the foil off the head and lean the top end slightly and restart
Run the car for 4 minute cycles varrying throttle and keeping temps at 200 and letting the engine cool at BDC in between runs(repeat 4 times)

Then is should be good!!!

i kinda tried to hint around the way i break a new motor in no matter what engine ...im gonna try and list it as best i can ...i have broke engines in in different way especially when i first started with a sportwerks.26 which says crank it throw it down run it with much smoke coming out of pipe ....:lol:then i tried the method mentioned above from johnny cool guy ....because it was listed as do this for o.s. motors ...when people were not getting good longevity out of them ...i ended up finally after 5 motor break ins over the past 2 years with this ...it works it is sound and i have never had a motor that blew up prematurely ....here it is
----wrap the head in aluminum foil and a cut sock
----dont touch the stock settings before you try to start it
----if it doesnt start lean the lsn an hour then try again ...and repeat ....if it doesnt start after a total of 1/4 turn lean ...check things out you may have another problem
----once it starts keep a very close eye on the temp ...
----as soon as the temp reaches 200 degrees or over let it idle for about a minute
----shut it off and drop the flywheel to bdc ....
----let cool all the way back to ambient temp
----do this twice ...thats 2 super quick heat cycles
----crank motor and let idle at a temp that is acceptable for your motor ...
grp 180-200 range , gotechs 200-240 range
----idle 2 tanks this way keeping the temp at your certain temp for your engine ....
--- you will definitley have to richen and lean the needles to keep it at this temp /////be sure to keep track of how much you turn each needle and which way you turn it .....with the grp i cant say that you would need to touch the hsn ....just the lsn .....
----after the idle tanks throw it down and run 4 tanks
tank 1 ....1/4 throttle blips no longer than 1 second blips ....then 1/2 throtlle ...then 3/4 throttle ...then full throttle ....temp the engine very frequently every 4-5 passes by you ...and adjust needles to keep temp in your certain range ....
---after that hit the track ....keep a close eye on it for the first 3/4-gallon of fuel ....it will be golden .....it sucks having to do this ...but if you do it will pay dividends down the road .....

here is a link to some of the best info i have ever read on tuning breaking in and some issues that can come up due to a motor not being tuned correctly ....


http://mrcr.ca/Documents/Ron%20Paris...ral%20Tips.htm

ron paris was the man ...his info is top notch ...and works if your stuff is in good running order .....sorry for the long post but theres a right way and a wrong way to do it .....hope this helps :tire::tire:
----

I will normally pit at the 8min mark. I just ordered a 6mm restrictor, as i have been running the 7.5. My epa is set so that it only pulls 75% open for full throttle. And im on gallon 4 for this motor.

I am ordering my glow plugs for my non-tuned grp and I was looking at the o'donnell 99 plug. I know I want to try this plug but on the site I will get it from it says it is meant for 30% nitro. Does this mean it will not work with 20 or 25%? Also any other glow plug suggestions would be good.

you will be fine with that plug ...od plugs are good and they work good in the grp's ..i ran mine 2 weeks ago on 25% gen2 byrons with an od 97t works good lasts long time

ok great, thanx for the help. I will be using your break in method also!! Do you have the non-tuned version also? How is your power band, bottom, and top?

no problem ...i dont have the standard i have the tuned ....didnt you say yours was a powerhouse motor ? if so it should run about the same or better than the tuned ...mark does phenomenal work ...he did my trinity extech .24 and it rocks ...on the power band ...it is very smooth from top to bottom ....so smooth that it just doesnt even sound like any other motro you have heard run down a straight away ....when your running down a 100ft straight it should sound like its spooling but never really screaming winding out at the top ....those od plugs go 99 cold-med...97 medium ....77 hot ...keep in mind the colder it is the med.or hotter plug you might run ...the hotter it is the med colder plug you might run ...the 97 is a good all around plug ....good luck ...let everyone know how it goes:nod:

No , I just have the regular non-tuned grp. I traded my slash for it aand it is new so I think I got a good deal. How does the non tuned compare to the tuned. I heard that the non tuned has a bit better bottom but the tuned has better top and mileage. Ya it is going to be around 55 when I am running for the first time so I thought a medium plug would work, am I correct?

ok gotcha ..i have never run a non tuned ...but i would think the milage may be a little less and your probably right on the bottom end ...still should be awesome ...yes on the plug the 97 would be good ...it was 50-57 when i ran 2 weeks ago ....

aright great, I will lyk.

So what is the hot ticket on an exhaust for the tuned motor? Is the 2053 indeed the bomb or are there any other pipe header combos that work good?

The 2053 is a tame pipe for the tuned version. I changed the header to a Ninja long FLS which helped the tuned in a heavy truggy. I run a 053 which is close to the 2053 but a little bit freer and a 086 or 9886 for tracks with long straights. Long header on tight technical tracks for more bottom end or the short header on larger less technical tracks to open up the top end.

The Non-tuned crank has a bigger internal bore compared to the tuned but the tuned has alot more intake timing. There are pros and cons to both. The bigger bore slows the mixture velocity so the case doesn't pack as well so the engine will be smoother on the bottom and have less overall power. The Non tuned crank intake is small in diameter with a very short duration which will accellerate the mixture for a very short period of time to help maintain the velocity in the crank bore. The tuned crank has a smaller bore to keep the mixture velocity higher and with that needs more intake timing to get a better case fill. On the Non-tuned engines I have modified, I increase the intake timing beyond what the tuned version has and because the crank bore has a larger ID and the velocity will be a little slower, the extra induction timing gives the engine the case fill needed to perform well. To help round out the performance, I increse blowdown timing to give the engine a little more time to burn the increased cylinder pack and with that comes increased torque, peak horsepower and more rpm and depending on how you configure the timing will dictate he personality of the engine whether you want to hit hard and like a light switch or roll on power nice and smooth keeping the power to the ground. Thats a big reason why the two engine's have different running characteristics. The sleeves are the same, the stock port timing is the same, the compression is the same, the carb's are very similar, the cases are the same. The backplate's are slightly different but doesn't affect a thing and the rod's are slightly different also a non contributing factor to performance. Both team engines run side by side, hold the same temp and have the same milage. One with a knife edged rod and one without again proving an old myth wrong;).

Someone please help!!
I am destroying flywheel collets on my GRP at a rate of one per race day. I am tightening the clutch nut quite snug, but sometimes the flywheel spins when on the starter box without turning the engine over.
If i tighten it as hard as I can (with threadlock), the same thing happens and the collet gets destroyed.
The engine is pretty new, 3 gallons, but at the same time, I have used 4 collets. I have tried a new clutch nut, checked the threads on the shaft (look OK, but not 100% sure). Apart from that, can anyone advise as to what may be causing this?

do you have a shim behind the collet? you might wanna try 2 shims behind the collet ...not sure on that one ...i do know if the collet is not shimmed right it will cause the flywheel to not tighten up...

have you tried shimming behind the collet if so what collit are you running because this also can make a differance also how old is your flywheel the inside of it could also be worn out

i have had this drama with the colets just out of interest what brand clutch are you running my losi clutch used to do this i found that the small collets that came with these flywheels were not deep enough and didnt seem penetrate in the fly wheel as much , i got the standard size collet and was much better no problem at all even better i went to a 3 shoe clutch system on my losi 8 2.0 much better but if you are having trouble with the losi size collet just try the standard ones worked for me .... mine used to come loose regulary on my car and that was with other motors aswell the grp but my brother has no problems at all with his

Another thing to look for is the collet may be too long and either flush with the top of the flywheel or just above and the nut may be bottoming out on the collet giving you a false tigtening effect. Also make sure you bearings in the case are seated all the way cause that could also cause problems. Try the shim behind the collet as mentioned before but I will bet it is something to do with the taper/length of the collit or the bearings not being seated. I have run flywheels with and without the shim and have been fine. The shim will help with spacing more than anything and you would know if the flywheel bottomed out on the engine case as it would not turn over. Other than that, can't really say what it is without seeing it.

Odds are that the tapered hole in the flywheel is now a little oversized from spinning on the collet. In most flywheels there is a shall shoulder in the tapered bore that the collet can botton out on. This can prevent the collet from going deep enough into the taper to tighten properly. If you file down the small diameter end of the collet about 1/32 of an inch the collet will seat deeper into the flywheel and most likely hold tight again.

Hi Guys,

Thank you all for the ideas. I am using the Losi steel flywheel with answer rc clutch shoes and springs. The flywheel is brand new, just added it last night.
I am definitely going to try the shim behind the collet as I think the clutch nut is bottoming out, with a false sense of tightness. Studied the old flywheel and found major slip damage on the inside where the clutch nut should be tight.
I tried the grp collet that came with the engine and fried that, so went back to losi collets, but as I said, keep frying those too.
I will shim behind the collet and try it out on Friday and will keep you posted.
Thanks again to all for the great ideas.

so how do the non tune perform is the power band as smooth as the nova 21 5k. Do it have a good low and top in i'm thinking about getting they are 209 at amainhobbies.

I just got one and am awaiting on some parts for my buggy so I can start her up. I have heard it has good bottom and awesome mid but the top end lacks a bit. It keeps up on the straights I heard but it doesnt blow by anything. The quality of italian mills though are unriveled and for 209 you cant beat it(hopefully)

Just picked up my Promokit the other night. Can't wait to get this baby installed and fired up. Out-door season can't come soon enough.

No real point to this post, just excited to have a brand new, high-end mill in my buggy. :tire:

Just started break-in and the compression is as tight as a frog's butt. Heated it up to 200 which loosened it up. The bottom end was rich as hell. I had to turn in the needle to 2 full hours before it would get started. Using the 6 restrictor. I had to raise the idle just a hair to get it right, but when it started it was a breeze after that. It kept it's tune and stayed on temp at around 190 on the cooling head and 180 on the crank case. Going into my fourth tank now. Hope all goes well.

BAD NEWS FROM NEOBUGGY GUYS


This morning rumours surfaced of engine guru Mario Rossi splitting from GRP Gandini, having joined them late 2005 to develop their engine line, starting out with Ninja, Falcon and Boss, and last year GRP's own 'brand' engines as well as the Mario Rossi Tuned versions. Mario was in contact with Neo Buggy and sent us the following statement:

"Hello everybody, this mail is to inform you that I have left GRE (Gandini Rossi engineering ), the factory that develop project for GRP. I want to take a period of time to stay with my family. I would like also to thank everybody I have worked with.
Sincerely, Mario Rossi"

Just as I bought another GRP from Amain Hobbies! F@#$%^!!! :flaming:

So what does this mean to the company? Will it close?

grp was grp without Mario Rossi, but if i was bettin i would think there would be no more tuned motors, if thats the case i think grp wont last much longer,

Did mario rossi tune everyone himself? If he didnt why wouldnt there be anymore tuned motors?

You think that the 086 will help, the top end any

Ya I have that pipe as well but I really cant say yet. Everyone is recomending the 053 pipe though to me. What I am going to do is run it with the 086 for a while and take it to the track and if I feel like it needs a change I will get the 053 to test against. I may just gte the 053 right now for shits and giggles

if he didnt then i dont see how they can call them mario rossi tuned motors.



i love the 053 on my grp, it has a smooth powerband and great milage

So whats the deal? Will they continue to be made or should I tell my buddy to not get one?

[QUOTE=losi_racer;5520001]if he didnt then i dont see how they can call them mario rossi tuned motors.

Does Kernal Sanders tune the friars that make your KFC chicken? :)

I've got four gallons on a GRP tuned. I dont race every weekend. After 2 weeks of sitting it was un-tunable today. I began systematically going through the obvious things but the same result concluded. Motor would run good, then go "dumb" rich. I was told by a very knowledgeable person that this is common and it is due to needle o-rings(idle and high).

Motor has ran for a couple weeks at 2.5-3.25 out on the high speed needle with the bottom as lean as I could get it. The motor wouldnt run until I leaned the top. Is everyone throwing their motors away once this happens, because I havn't seen anything resorting to these problems here, I hear of the mystery flame, but no fix other than buying another brand of engine? If I set the engine's needles as losi claims, it wont run at all, after four gallons. I wish Drake Would respond to my "real world" totall screwed situation.

(MOTOR HAS TONS OF PINCH)


My question to the board is, are their any mentions of any of this, here?

Hey guys what pipe works best on the .28, and will one of the dynamite models work ok. Im on a budget and it seems like the dynamite are a little more reasonable. Thanks

i dont own a .28 but i used the .21 in my truggy(its mainly in the buggy) and the 053 was a great match, i got 12 min run time