Find somewhere that is Out Of Stock and ask them to order another.....see what their supplier will say. :nod:

GRP is done. However, if you are looking for one, rcdeal.com is selling brand new tuned promo kits for $275 and standard promo kits for $225. Look for the "bye, bye grp" link on thier website.

grp .28 tuned engine temps
 

Guys I need some help getting my temps down. I run the .28 tuned with grp pipe and grp #5 plug in a 8T 2.0. The temps are 230-245. I have a little over 1.5 gallons through it and after a gallon through it these temps are consistent. The first gallon blubbering rich and I kept it between 170 and 190. The bottom is lean and the top is rich like I have read to do but the temps are just not right. At the track I run at it has a double double in the front, the first double is short and the second is long, and after I quater throttle the first double I will gun it to make the second and a huge puff of smoke will come out of the pipe. That is how rich the top is. Otherwise, the engine is running great. It idles great and runs great it is just too rich and the temps are too high. I usually do not tune to temp but with breaking it in I have not had the chance to put the temp gun down. I was wondering if it might have something to do with the clutch setup. I run 2 alum with gold and 2 plastic with green but to be honest I am clueless at this point. I heard that these mills usually have the temps drop at the gallon mark but so far I have not had the same luck. I do not think it is an air leak because it is just running to well. I have had air leaks before and this thing runs to good to have an air leak. Please help.

I love my MR-B01A, too bad grp is shutting down.
Any of you heard what this does to the other grp-based engines (Boss, Mega (or was it Vega?))
I'm in doubt if I shuld get some spares for my GRP, or just let it go, when it dies...

turners3215,

I run both the GRP.21 & .28. My .21 likes to run between 190 & 200 but my .28 has always ran between 225-230. still has smoke and runs good. I now have aprox. 5 gallons on it and still has great compression. I have not heard from others what there .28s are temping at.

Thanks Tristyn. I really hope that it is the clutch. I am going to try all 4 alum clutch shoes and see it it brings the temp down. I think that with 2 plastic shoes it is slipping too much. Please guys if you have experienced this please let me know the fix.

Clutch Set up 2.0 8T
 

What clutch set up is recomended for Tuned GRP21/JP3 pipe on a 2.0 8T?

Try the OS P3 plug. If you run 4 aluminum clutch shoes they will wear out much faster. My 21 in a buggy runs for 13 minutes at 180 degrees. I don't have the 28 though.

i would recommend a M2C clutch for a .28....the losi clutch imo is sub par for .28's....they work...but a M2C will work alot better for ALOT longer......Reg Hard shoes on .9 spring's will last you gallons to come.


DO NOT stall the clutch on a .28 too much...you WILL burn down the shoes.....a .28 has the low end torque to compensate for a little clutch lag that a mild .21 might require to get adequate power to the wheels....i ALWAYS ran .9's or green and black in the losi clutch when i used to run a .28...i run .21's and only .21's now.......also going up a tooth on the CB might not be a bad idea to take away a little bottom end....also a smaller venturi would help. :nod:

Does anyone know an aftermarket cooling head that fits the .21 buggy engine? preferably light blue to match the new TRF buggy :D

I tried M2C shoes on a modded .21 GRP with 2 silver and 2 gold and they were toast in 5 tanks. I still have a new set and they just dont hold up. Anyone wants them 20 bucks and I will ship them to you.

On my GRP.28 I run a fioroni 70/30 split clutch with 3 standard springs, GRP 4 & 5 PLUG (usually #5) 30% byrons gen2, the jp3, or dyn 053 pipe. The GRP.28 is a great .28 engine. With the standard fior. clutch springs this engine has a very soft bottom end but great overall power. Compared to the old Nova 528 xr, JPX 28, OS 28 it has a much smoother power delivery with better run times, but does not feel it has as much power as the others I listed.

you didn't pick the right hardness and too much stall on the spring's...they got hott and slagged out. :nod:

which shoes are they ?

Click the link but they are the extra light hard.

What function does the dot on the head button serve? It points towards the carb correct?

i didn't see the link at first.... the Hards should have put up with it but i guess the silver and gold's did them in....i would have went with 2 carbon's on green and a pair of hards on gold....i think you just overheated the shoes and they slagged....no fault of the shoe's tho.

The powerhouse turbo version of the GRP is a monster. Just too much for M2C clutch shoes. I am trying out some new clutches from Answer-RCUSA.com I ran into this thread on RC Tech and ordered the clutch shoes they shipped super fast and we will see. I do like the fact that each set of clutches comes with a full set of springs and all for 22.95 + 2.50 shipping, now thats a steal. I will see how they hold up to the modded GRP.

Sorry Frank but its not the motor....I run My Clock work mod JPX's which are 2-3X what the GRP is on bottom and i can keep shoes for Multiple race weekends with Multiple Hours of use each event.:nod:

it was the spring's that did in the shoes. :nod:

Also the Ultra light probably did not help either. :nod:

2 silver 2 gold springs.

Oh i know..that is a stiff combo...especially the silver's.....i used to burn down a set of Max life's in a matter of quali's before i really leaned about clutch's and how they really work as far as compounds/weight and spring stall. :nod:

I agree about the silver clutch springs. They'll burn shoes up with the quickness. I've stepped back to greens and only on high bite tracks I'll use two gold springs in truggy. But not in buggy. There is a much more life from the clutch shoes when not using the heavy springs. It's worth a try really, if only to find out for yourself.

Has there been many people breaking the piston skirts in the Tuned .21?

I'm not sure how mine broke but the only thing that could have caused it was a head on impact. I was about 1/2 speed through a chicane and a buggy from the next lane went off of the double crooked and landed exactly in front of my car. The engine stalled and my pitman fired it up, but the engine died as soon as I tapped the brakes. So I lost out on finishing the main I was in.

i run only m2c clutches ...including on my powerhouse turbo port extech .24 never had any issues ....i ran reg hard shoes and 1.0 springs ...definitely not the clutches ....:nod: and the m2c set up comes with 4 sets of springs ....when you buy the starter kit ....

I run my clockwork JPX.21 on .9's....I got MORE then enough power on bottom to push them....the .95's and 1.0 were WAY too stiff for my motor/truck set-up.....and ive recently been mixing some Med's in with my hards and im REALLY liking the performance so far.

Zixxer are you on the stock clutch or the m2c 4 shoe ?

i found the M2c 4 shoe hits too hard in buggy and without the possibility of adding some carbon shoes...its just too hard for buggy.....i really like the losi steel flywheel set-up for buggy.

So i need a little guidance my engine has about 2 gallons on it and ran awesome i swtched to an 053 pipe and it ran stellar for 2 tanks and then it went south it leans itself out will run 2 laps and i can turn the hsn 1 full turn out and it will run fine for 2 laps and the go lean. I have taken the motor apart and seald the backplate carb and pinch bolt still the same thing i have changed all the fuel line and everything i also put a different motor in and it ran fine i am at a loss any help woulb be appretiated also all the o rings look ok and there is good tension when i turn the needles

What is the right way to tune a GRP motor?

Just like a Ninja....lean bottom fat top. :nod:

This probly already has been answered but i didnt feel like goin through 90 pages, but what is a good startin point as far as needles. The weather has been around 70 degrees and medium humidity. Im runin a medium hot odonell plug, but ive got a hot, i dont know which one to run. Im only getting like 6 minutes to a tank, so any help is much appreciatted.

I thought it was the other way around?

I was just about ready to give up on my GRP. I have had it and my 8ight 2.0 for a little over a month and couldn't get it to run right. It would run good for a tank and then when I'd fill it back up it the mixture would change. Last week I had the car cleaned up and filled up the tank and started working on something so I didn't run it right away. I lifted up the front of the car and there was fuel dripping out of the holes in the bottom of the car. The tank had a hole in it where the seam is. I guess I never noticed it since I would fuel it up and run it immediately so it would get covered in dirt before I saw the problem. I put a new tank on it and got to run it today. OMG! This thing runs great now! Before I was barely able to finish a 6 min. heat on a tank. Today I was getting over 10 min. It pulls like crazy too.

Well today I broke out the GRP after the case on my Vspec cracked. I had broken in the GRP on a bench, and had it in my pit bag ready to go-pipe-clutch-already installed, ran 1 qualifier and a 20 minute main.

Running a JP3 pipe had 1/2 a talk after 5 minute quali, impressed how smooth the engine is, yes doesn't scream like the others but has power where it counts, maybe still hasn't completly broken in, but compared to my EB Mod Vspec doesn't have the same top end, nevertheless still very pleased, going to try the GRP pipe 2053, maybe I can gain a little more top speed. Temps consistent 189, nice trail of smoke, idled forever, only change I made is went to a GRP4 instead of the 6 I broke it in with......time will tell...(I got 8 gal on my VSpec).

Same thing happened to me after just a few runs. My GRP ran super lean. New tank and problem solved. Still sucks that this stuff has to happen though.

selling my grp


http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post5801297

Link didn't work. But what are you replacing it with - just curious...

GRP .21 MR Ninja Cooling head and carburetor:

http://www.tony1034.com/ts/4salenew/IMG_1047.JPG

$25 shipped USPS Priority Mail (USA).

My LHS owner said the piston/sleeve sets for the Tuned GRP might be back in stock around the 18th. Can anyone confirm this will happen. I have a two gallon Tuned .21 with a broken piston. Not sure how it happened. I had the clutch/clutch bearings fail on me at my last race and upon removing the engine I checked the piston through the exhaust port and noticed the piston had a chunk missing. So I removed the backplate and there were two pieces of the piston stuck to the inside of the engine case. Just two pieces. No grinding, or contact marks, or nicks on any other internals of the engine. Weird.

video of a GRP NINJA .28 in a revo...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBqfhWX9hXU

for some reason my thread got deleted. im going with the nova +4....

the grp is a good engine i just want something new. ill post about it here


I have a .21 tuned grp. it has about 4.5 gallons thru it. it has a brand new ceramic tko front bearing. The old one leaked and caused an air leak. because of this it needs a new piston and sleeve. but the cond. it in now it will run it just load up with fuel at idle.

im including a dynamite 053 pipe. it has burnt on shoe goo from my body, i havent tried cleanin it. im askin 100 shipped for both the pipe and engine. since puttin the front bearing in the engine hasnt been started

in most cases i will get this shipped out next day after payment is recieved. or if i still have time i will do it same day

pm me for more details

flywheel and air filter not included
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...0511092341.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...1205082213.jpg

my grp has excellent low&mid with little top end missing with 053. has been at 190degrees since the 1st start during breakin. with just under a gallon i dont think the top end will open up more for me but im still happy with it. vspecs seem to get better top end than other 5ports iv ran, at least from my experience.

I just broke in a powerhouse modded GRP .28 I will tune and race it this weekend. I am running it in a 8T 2.0 with 15/50 gearing. I am hoping to get more top and more low than the .21. I know on the box while heat cycling it sounded a lot meaner like it has a lot more grunt. We will see on Sat.

Amain has them in stock check it our CLICK HERE and here are some on ebay CLICK HERE