that thread was deleted for not following the rules of the site.....

[QUOTE=Frank L;5808801]I just broke in a powerhouse modded GRP .28 I will tune and race it this weekend. I am running it in a 8T 2.0 with 15/50 gearing. I am hoping to get more top and more low than the .21. I know on the box while heat cycling it sounded a lot meaner like it has a lot more grunt. We will see on Sat.QUOTE]

grp 28's are still very smooth with good top end, from the few iv seen...

is grp still gonna make parts for the .21 tuned? I love my tuned it is out of whack on tune. I havent ran it in 3 months. I usually run a ninja jx as my main race engine but I need my grp to be reliable for a back up engine. Could some post the low and high needle settings please

Drake settings are as follows: HSN .045 inches in from flush, LSN .045 inches out from flush, Idle .030 inches in from flush. These settings are for the .21 tuned. Hope this helps.

have you tried the short manifold?

um i post all my for sale the same way, pics, a price, and a description. how is that not followin rules? so if you dont mind so i can follow the rules can you state what i did wrong or pm me what i did wrong thank you

thanks. but what does that translate into actual turns? How do I measure the needles to get them to .045?

You would use calipers on the long end the slide sticks out, turn it to .045 and stick it in the needle and check for flush. It's a pretty crappy way to tell, and the article that it's from tells you two different things if you actually read it and not just look at the descriptions on the side. Worst is the LSN is bevelled and it doesn't say from flush with the inside or the ouside of the bevel.

I think in this thread if you troll back through it some people have it in turns, something like 4.5 and 3.5 but don't qoute me!:spidey:

not on a grp. i thought about that after my reply. going from short tracks indoors in the winter to longer tracks in the summer, the short manifold might be the ticket. i know on some other 5 ports short manifolds are great. I use a dynamite 053 and have a good short manifold im not using that fits good on dynamite pipes...i might have to try that...that sounds killer...right now though im deciding whether to throw my grp in my bag for spare...not looking so good for parts anywhere at the moment?

I have run the promo kit grp pipe and it comes with a short header. This is fine in a buggy but in a heavier truggy the grp's need a long header to increase the bottom end. Ninja makes a long headed for the fls type pipes otherwise I like the Rb long and short headers to go with the dynamite 053 and 086 pipes. The grp 2053 pipe does get better mileage. I am breaking in a new grp .28 powerhouse mod today and I fear that engine will need all the help it can get in the mileage department so I am trying the stock grp 2053 and short header hopefully it will get atlease 9 min.

those are pretty much all the pipes and headers i carry xept the grp 2053. alls i gotta say is that mod grp 28 should be awsome. whenever i run around 28s i start trying to keep up with 21s lol(kind of like golf and others hitting longer than me). modded wow, that should rock, and get better fuel economy than non mod. way too much power for me...straight out of box they are smooth though...

Ok guys here's my prob I simply love how smooth the grps are, I also love the powerband. I have been running them for over a year ad have 5 of them stock tuned, modded tuned, modded nontuned, and a tuned with an onroad piston and sleeve-8 port I believe. There are a lot of locals running these motors also and everyone is having a great experience, getting 6-12 gallons on these motors and some of these guys all they do is run them, no preventive maint or anything. The prob is the conrod, after they get week on the pinch, have it repinched but the rod doesn't last which is acceptable but everyone is out of stock on the rods, and with grps future in question are there gonna be any parts in the future. My question is does anyone know of a different conrod that will work in a grp engine, or know of a place to get them. I found a place with the promo kits $280 tuned but without a second conrod they will all be pretty paperweights after 6 gallons or so. If I can find a connecting rod that would replace the one in the grp I know a lot of people that would like to purchase them. Also what is the latest on grps future-i heard something about BOSS engines but that they did not have a us dist
Thank you for your time an hope we can find a replacement
Jason

talked with mark at powerhouse last night ...he said the current r-7 nova rod works fine ...witch he also said it the same con-rod back to the p-5 ...so they will be plentiful ....also the mr ninja rod will work also .....djballen came over last night to use the grp tool ...and we kinda checked it ...so its all good in the grp hood ..pinch away ...and connect the rod with a nova or a mr ninja ....now get on amain and get it done ....and lets put the mystery to bed .....:nod::nod::nod::nod::nod:..call me today i will at the house unti 4:00 going to see star trek at 5pm

you can grab my grp. 100 w/ a 053 pipe. my piston and sleeve went early due to air leak so the conrod still has plenty of life pm me if u want it

yeah... these con rods are giving headaches too...if that novarossi rod works that'll be great news...

amain&carolina out stock...

so much good info here and all my questions are answered... i'm really close on my tune, and i should have it figured out for my next race:nod:

anyone using byrons gen 2 with their tuned? Im stuggling with the tune on mine and wanting some needle settings

mine is fully broke in and running strong after 5 gallons

HSN- .5MM IN FROM FLUSH
LSN- 1MM OUT FROM FLUSH
IDLE GAP- 1.2MM

running byrons gen2 race 3000
odonells 97t plug
grp 2053 pipe
m2c 4 shoe clucth ...regular hard shoes...1.0 springs

i am running in 75-85 degree weather at about 80% humididty
with the motor having 5 gallns on it ...the temps are creeping up to the 205 range ....after 6 minutes qual . i have a good 57cc's of gas left in the tank...easily getting 11 minutes of run time if i push it ....hope that helps out ...

heres that attachment in pdf ...should be easier to read and get to work ....just thought i would post it up as it holds true no matter who or where or what you are ....

many thanks, will try that out. One question, the 1mm idle gap, is that is with the resrictor in or out

easier with it out

with earlier talks about pipes and headers yesterday i ran the losi re 10 pipe with the grp and dam it was a completly different engine had bucket loads of bottem end to the point it had no problems pulling wheelies coming onto the straight dam i was shocked :):) these losi pipes re 10 re 11 are good and good price to if you wondering what pipe to try give the re 10 a shot you wiont be disapointed :nod:

wonder why the drake didnt get this word around. i got an re11, ran it with everything xept grp...how were run times...that can be the deciding factor.

LOSR2044 vs. LOSR2066

These two numbers are for the piston/sleeve sets for the GRP engines but which one is the Tuned and which is the Non-Tuned? I can't tell the difference except for the $8 difference in price. So I assume the more expensive one is the tuned version. Anyone care to comment?

44 is tuned 66 is non tuned

i get aornd 9 min run time but i used the 7 mm carb insert so not alot differanve in run time

I have been wanting a tuned GRP .21 for my RC8 for a year or so now and I finally bit the bullet yesterday. Can't wait to get it mounted in the car and
start breaking it in. My question is this, I have a hard time biting off $140
for the GRP tuned pipe and was told the 053 Ofna/Dynamite pipe will work.
Any truth to this? I'll be running this engine on Nitrotane and would like to
get the rest of the summer out of it, at least, so hopefully it is good for 2-3
gallons or so. :p

mate as far as i am concerened i have the grp pipe and i think its ordanary not alot of bottom end people are using the dyn 53 pipe with good results also i have seen people with the associated tune pipe good to but these motors seem to lack bottom end power and getting a pipe with explosive bottom end is the key and clutch set up :):)

if you havent run it in yet it will be a slow process be patiant :) my motor came alive after 2+ gallons had gone through it .... pulling wheelies coming onto the straight bloody awsome this weekend just gone :nod:

after your 2/3 gallons replace your crank bearing i dont think they are very good quality i have seen a few rear bearing let go :nod:

+1 I waited till I had about 1.5 gallons and ended up changing bearings at the track during saturday morning practice, got 2 tko ceramics and its all good now! Take it easy on break-in these motors take a little time to brea-in, but it will be worth it when its ready its ready to rn with anything also don't make any major adjustments to the hsn use mainly the lsn. I got 4 tuned grps and love all of themn they are not explosive just smooth usable power
Hope this helps
Jason

the grp pipe will produce the most run time period ..if your not worried about run time use the 053 it is the exact same shape and make up baring r&d on the inside and its also a 2 chamber pipe so you will get more power ...i have a nontuned that i am breaking in this week and i have the 053 straped to it

+1 replace the bearings at the 1 gallon mark you will not be dissapointed if you dont your bearings will develop a scrtching sound that will get worse until they let go then you are out a motor ...get tko's and let it rip

so yesterday I decided to check my needle settings (just curious) HSN .035 IDLE .025 and here is what has me scratching my head LSN .035 but it's not in, it's out, if it makes sense, could that be right? Well the engine is running perfect consistent temp, no flameouts, smooth power, so I'm just curious cause I remember reading something about the settings by Drake.......

the settings by drake on that link were right up until the lsn settings were stated ...it was a mis print .....i posted a page back ny needle settings ...you are about where i am at 5 gallons ...so yes you are ok on the lsn settings ...i mean the motor comes 6.5 turns out from bottom on the lsn ...i thought the needle was gonna fall out ....but thats the way these motors work :nod:

sorry being a little bit lazy and didnt check.... it has a little less than a gallon, the only thing that I'm missing is more top end, maybe it's just cause it doesn't "scream" like my Vspec, so it makes me feel missing the top end, should I lean the top a little more??

no

not unless you really feel you need it ...you are right on point it wont tune sound or looko like a v-spec .it should come out of a corner and have a slight hesitation mid to top and then should spool up smoothly without sounding like its winding out and they dont scream noise wise on the top .that is why people smoked these engines early on because they thought everything should run and sound like a v-spec ...not saying you will never tune the hsn ...but not anywhere near what you would think ....in 5 gallons excluding break in ...i have tuned the hsn 4 times

also what carb restrictor do you guys recomend for a truggy w/21 grp tuned/2053 pipe/2 composite green springs & 2 aluminum black springs.......

i run the 7

what run times are you getting?? is it a truggy?