Hey grp fans im running a .28 tuned in my truggy and ive noticed now after running my truck the motor gets a large build up of oils and dirt around the glow plug ive checked the glow plug to make shure its tight and that the cooling head was all the way tight but it just seems to be leaking. It runs great holds a tune great. i almost have two gallons on it and it usually stays at 210-230 depending on the weather, any ideas?

jammin x2 crt,m2c 4 shoe clutch,odonells97t,7mm rest.2053grp pipe
i am coming in from 6:45 of running a qual ...and i consistently have 50-57cc of fuel left in a 150cc tank..this is the track i run mostly http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oJ6pMkRX3k im not much on running a motor out of gas ...but i feel like i can run 9:30-10 minutes mark

what type of plug are you running ?

O.S p6 Turbo plugs.

i have seen o.s. and odonells plugs leak around that area ...there was aproblem early on with swapping glowplugs manufacturers and plugs not sealing up in there ....it is possible it is leaking ...you should be able to see it while its running puddling up around the glow plug ....other than that not really sure other than it does get mucked up in there from time to time?

i cleaned it out and ran a couple tanks a little while ago but there was no build up of dust/oil mixed so maybe it was jsut a little loose we'll see what happens after a few more tanks i never did see it pudleign up either before when i checked it but who knows, thanks for the help.

the guy who mods my motors mark at www.powerhousercperformance.com
said he had a similar problem getting an odonells plug to seal ...he said he literaly cranked it down a little tighter and it has been working ever since ....but you prolly got it bro

ihad the same problem....my solution was to chuck the od plug in the weeds and go back to os.:nod:

Do the carb restrictors affect the low end or high end more? I have been using the 6mm and have plenty of bottom end but would welcome more top end (although it is pretty good too).

Bigger restrictors give more top. If mileage is ok you can go up to a 7 and should see some more top end.

well its offical, I cant get my tuned to run right for anything. I tried the drakes settings, didnt work very well. I just want it to idle smoothly and be reliable and not flame all the time

without seeing it, raise the idle, lean the bottom...

i have 2 of these, all of them idle at the setting adam has....

the rest should be some what close, depending on temp and alt...
ilean mine till they png, then richen it up a bit....like 1-3 hrs...

Thanks. I will give it a try. Mileage is great right now!

Thanks to all for the suggestions. My bud at my LHS is a Losi sponsered driver who has been running the GRP's sense they came out. He recommended the Dyanmite 053 or the AE pipe for it. Probably do the 053 seeing as how I have seen some durability issues with the AE pipes.

I break my engines in fairly easy and like to run no more than 2 gallons on a
set of bearings because of the fuel that I run. I love the way Nitrotane tunes and keeps my temps down but the lack of oil in it makes me keep a close eye
on my bearings. As for it taking 2 gallons to break in, that only means that as much as I get to drive it, it probably won't even be broken in by the end of summer! LOL!

As for power delivery, I LOVE the velvety smooth power of both of my BL electric vehicles so this has been the reasoning behind my want for this engine. I have yet to actually drive one but after seeing them run and seeing a local Losi driver go 12 minutes on 3/4 of a tank to only come off the track with the engine at 170 degrees, I was sold. It has simply just been a money thing up until now. ;)

Tony is it flaming when you are at idle and does it rev high and then drop down? i ask because i had the same issue after my tune went out of wack ( 2 pin holes in the carb boot) But after i fixed that i noticed my lsn needle was very rich i had to lean out the bottom and back off the idle screw to almost flush and then went back in about a turn and my lsn needle is about 1 to 1.5 mm out from flush at the 2 o clock position and she will idle all day long and no flame outs hope that helps a bit

After I thought about it I had a big duh moment. If you have a smaller restrictor it lets in less air, just like not having the throttle open all the way.:p Got me thinking, why even have the restrictors when you could just limit throttle travel?

Don't take this as gospel, but I do believe that limiting the throttle throw is NOT the same as a smaller restricter... zixxer? anyone?

Motor's load up when your not on the throttle...Unless you specifically tune it to accept the limited throttle throw you will probably stall it out trying to be smooth with it. :nod:

Guys,
I need advice: is that necessary/advisable to change also the bearing when you change a pushrod, piston and sleeve? the bearing is still smooth.

thank you

Could someone please post their needle settings and which carb restrictor they are using on their GRP .28. Mine is giving me fits and I can not get a tune to same my life.

have you checked that you do not have any air leaks and that the exahaust gaskets and fuel tube is okey ?
also you need to make sure that you r fuel tank seals and that there isnt any fine cracks i have seen them start to have trouble when you get down to a certain level and then the tune goes bad :nod:

yeah it will flame when idling, but it only revs a little when coming off full throttle

to rich on bottom ..it should rev up a little bit longer coming in off running on the track ..its just something you have to be able to hear ....

run 6-8 laps get good and warmed up ...bring it in pull the body ...rev it up a couple of times to clear it out ...pinch the fuel line going to the hsn really hard cut all the fuel off .....it will do one of three things probably ...instantly stall without reving up = to lean on lsn
rev way up before it dies = to rich on bottom
rev just slightly up before it dies = just about right and in the ball park
once you do it a few times you can get the feel for it without killing the motor ...then adjust re-rev and try again

for the idle question ...you should not have to play much with your idle setting using a different restrictor ...as stated above ...but you will have to re-tune your motor ...i wouldnt suggest limiting the throttle to compinsate for some thing ....i limit my throttle on all engines to about 1 mm before it clears the carb ....that way im not pulling farther than i need to ...hope that made sense ...alan burton had told me that drake will run his throttle to about 1 mm past full open when running a restrictor ...he could tell me why ...only that he does it so alan does it ......anybody see the benifit in that :weird::deathstar

i need this too. does anyone have the stock settings for the 28 in turns? (not the .xxx inches from flush stuff if you can)

Well, I have 7 tanks on my tuned 21 now. I did 4 idling 1 at 160, 1 at 170, 1 at 180 and 1 at 190. Pre-heated to 150 before I fired it up for the next tank and the first two that I ran tonight also. I let it cool down to 100 between tanks. Tonight I threw it down and started driving it. I would do a 2 second count to 1/3rd throttle for the first tank, 2 second count to 2/3 throttle on the second tank and a 2 second count to near full throttle on the third tank. I am currently out 2 hours from factory settings on the lsn and it seems to run just fine. Never saw over 205 while I was running it and it is still very tight so I figure the temps will fall down more once it fully breaks in. For now, I am just keeping it smoking good and to hell with the temps. Even with the carb this fat it still has plenty of power so we'll see how it runs this coming weekend at its first race. :D

my grp .21 pro came alive after 4 lt had gone through it ... it was a completly different engine after that :nod: much happier with it

thanks to everyone for all their info on this thread. i got my tuned running like a rolex... still needs about 10 deg cooler i think, but i went 10minutes last night in the main with a little left over... smooth power, no lean bog, no rich low-end (got rid of that surge when i let off at the end of the straight) and it idles on the box long enough to smoke half a cigarette without loading up at all.

:nod:

The temps defiantly drop 15-20 degrees after they are fully broken in that seems to be around a gallon. Every GRP I have run did the same thing and then shortly after they are broken in the front bearing starts leaking and you have to drop in another, But after that I have seen them go well into the 9-11 gal mark before the top end seems to suffer. Too bad they are done. GRP made a great little engine. I see A-main pulled them from their website, not even listed anymore. Time for a change.

frank have you had any trouble with the rear bearing at all on the grp i have on mine i replaced the bearings at the 3 gallon mark

I have heard nothing but good things about these engines too. I remember reading, or being told, that GRP was going to sell the engines direct to the customer to cut out the middle man so that they could make some more money per unit, in attempt to keep afloat. I guess that isn't gonna happen now. Boy did I ever pick the perfect time to buy one, eh? :p

My LHS has a promo kit still in stock that he wanted to sell me BAD before
I bought this one. His best deal was still twice what I paid for just the engine. I had to buy a pipe, yes, but I just put the 053 Dynamite on it for now. Should be fine.

i think you will find that the dyn 053 pipe will deliver better power than the grp pipe 2053 which is a nice pipe but i didnt like the way the engine performed with this pipe

What makes the dynamite pipe so different from the grp/mugen pipe different??? Aren't they both 2053 ??

My LHS was able to order a new piston/sleeve for my Tuned .21, he said they came off back order on monday/tuesday. Wahoo!!

they never set up the online shop, and the web site says nothing.......

i am not sure about the pipes i just know from experiance frome moving away from the grp pipe ... just because an engine comes with this pipe doesnt all ways mean that it is the best match not to say the grp pipe isnt any good it might be a good pipe on another engine

mine is in....

piston, sleave and rod....

i am going to send my motor to burton for pinching though before i use the new parts...

pinch a New P+S ?

Ok i have a question..does anyone know where to find or know the answer tot he question of what size set screw come on the GRP pipe that comes on the promo kit?? Also i know people say you get better performance with the dyn. pipe but does the run time stay close?? thanks!!

i run a different pipe and a 7 mm carb restrictor and im getting around 9-10 minuts still thats with the losi re10 pipe

Well, it went to its first race yesterday and I don't know if something if messed up or if this engine is supposed to run this crappy until it is fully
broken in but it wouldn't get out of the hole to save its life yesterday.
I am one TURN out from factory on the low side, and still at the factory settings on the high side and it still will NOT smoke down low. Temps in the
190's, NO bottom end. Tried leaning it from factory, no change. Seemed to get better with more fuel but I went for the smoke just to keep it alive for now. Gotta get it to my LHS/GRP guy for proper tune.

P.S. It has one gallon of fuel on it now.

my grp came alive after 2.5- 3 gallons had gone through it....
these motors like to run lean top end and fat on the bottom end ...
i had to play around with clutch set up and pipe befor i was completley happy with the motor but once its run in and its a different beast all together:nod: