Regarding my GRP MR Ninja B01A:
It seems to lean out quite early, doesent settle on low idle, it revs up. However the temp is low, and its screaming nicely at top end.
After a while and with full tank it settles on nice idle after a while.

Is the sollution to lean the LSN further, and adjust the idle screw, or do you have any other ideas?

In my GRP Tuned .21 the piston skirt broke right around the 2 gallon mark. So I put a new piston and sleeve in and I'm currently breaking it in. It's running like a dream. Pre-heat to 200 deg. F and then starts easy. The temps settle to 180F and stays within 10 degrees of that. It's just awesome. The idle is perfect and I couldn't ask for an easier break-in period.

The very first time I tried getting this engine going was a big pain in the rear. But since the rest of the engine has about two gallons and only the P/S are new I assume it's just that much easier to break in.

I used some DOW Molycote O-ring grease on on the needle o-rings and they don't seem to move one bit. The tune is staying very consistent and each change of the needles does exactly what I want.

I also had suspected a front bearing leak because of all that I had read on this thread. But I tried the Brakecleen sprayed near the front bearing and the idle didn't change one bit. Nice. So since this is all going so well I can only assume something catastrophic down the road soon. LOL. But I hope not.

I HATE FLAMMIN OUT AND DNF'S
 

HSN, 4, 3&3/4, 3&1/2, LSN 6, 5&1/2. ???????? Whatever. I'm not doubting any bodies ability to tune an engine here except for myself. Those brushless motors are looking good right now. Bloody NITRO love and hate it.:flaming:
I am missing something here, i've lost my tune and my marbles. I gotta race tommorrow and I really hope it is my usless tuning and not an underlying prob. Hopefully our club guru can get me goin good. My motor was going great guns, don't know where the needles were but it was better than where I can get it now. I had a serious lean bog and no bottom end but at least it idled forever.:cry:
It's goin like a shower a shit, pleanty of bottom end now, just don't crash cause she's gonna flame out waitin to be marshelled.
Now before anyone starts givin me needle settings you must know I'm on East coast of Australia in sunny Queensland, just switched from 20% to 25% and using O'Donnell 97T plugs.
I HATE FLAMMIN OUT AND DNF'S

noone should be giving you needle positions. if they do they dont know what they are talkin about unless they are for stock settings.ALL engines will be different on tune even if they are right next to each other

Tuning thought processes
 

Yeah this episode has brought me back to basics. after too much reading and not enough doing. I think i've been too concerned with the LSN and I have been taking the HSN for granted. Been told it does not affect the Idle tune but i'm not convinced. I've just been leaving the HSN set at around 4 or bit less but not actually tuning the top end properly and doing the WOT runs and leaning the HSN to optimal. It's still producing top end power but probably not it's optimal. Hard to tell still goes pretty hard. I think I'll be resorting to basics first thing at the track tomorrow and lean that HSN needle out to optimal first and then finesse the LSN. The club guru has said he will have a look at it for me but that does not improve my tuning ability. I do beleive the HSN set to rich has to have a direct affect to the LSN and idle. It moderates the amount of fuel on hand for the LSN to govern.:weird:

i agree you should just do and learn ....i hate to give my needle settings because the will deinitely not work for some people ....if you tune your motor based on common sense and facts ...the motor will tell you what it wants ......its hard to try and not help someone with there motor .....i want eveyones grp to run as good as mine has for many gallons ....unfortunately they wont because all peoples conditions are different ....i believe if all else fails go back to stock settings ....and tune from there ...if that fails and the motor doesnt hold a tune ..then you have a problem elsewhere ...and well you know how it ends up from there :nod::eek:

:nod: +1 fuel will make a big differance to a tune to

Sorry if I appear stupid but what do you mean +1. I agree fuel will make a big difference. The fuel I just switched to is sold and used widely at our club, AT Racing 10% Syn 5% Castor. I have just increased from 20% to 25% mitro since learning that the GRP 21 Tuned is shimmed for 30%,looking to get more bottom end. I also uped my clutch springs to 1.1mm. Yet to see if the wheelspin can be limited enough at this setting to improve lap times. If I can get it to bloody idle for more than 10 secs.

means i agree about the tuning the motors tips are helpful but learning is the key and once you have it its all good :nod: i just mentioned about the fuel as i wouldnt really run anything less than 25% nitro and that the brand makes a differance aswell.....
my grp idles for ages when its all warmed up but my mates grp doesnt idle very well at all it had a air leak the o_ring on the HSP needle was not sealing.

mate try a differant brand of fuel :nod: personly i have had bad experiance with AT but i am certainly not bragging any brand at all

Cheers for the comments, See how I go tomorrow. A more experianced hand might make the world of difference and be able to see straight away if is my tune or a prob.

I HATE FLAME OUTS AND DNF'S;)

is there any where to get the tcs sleeve for the carb or do you just have to buy a whole new carb? i pulled my carb out during routine maintnence and the sleeve was stuck inside the case and came off the carb ( i think i may have had the pinch bolt cranked down too tight) ANY thoughts Thanks

Leaky front bearing may be affecting idle
 

Got up this mornin and pulled motor back off buggy and performed air leak test. couldn't sleep:eek:. found no leak around needles but removed, inspected and greased o'rings anyway just to be sure. Did find that front bearing was passing air but sort of expected that after reading this thread. We'll see today if it's enough to muckup idle. Note I run the motor yesty arve and did not oil motor when finished so there would be very little residual oil in there to take up any seal in the bearing. Did you buy your TKO's from the US. How much of a pain was that and how long did they take

Does anyone know where u can get ceramics for the GRP 21 tuned in Australia.:tire:

Finally got mine figured out. The Dynamite 053 pipe was chocking it. Hung a
GRP pipe on it, DIALED. Everybody told me the 053 would work so maybe there
is something wrong with mine but as much as I hate tuning, I'll just trade it back in to the hobby shop and get the GRP tuned pipe for it and be done with
it. :nod:

Front Bearing shot. Piston and sleeve not much better.
 

Ok, to anyone that is interested and has read my last couple of inexperianced tuning efforts.

Got to track this mornin and club guru concluded after trying his hand at tuning that the front bearing was no good. We changed it out and it was better but not perfect. The pinch is lacking and the right tune was hard to find.

I can only suspect it was the way I run it in. I used the heat cycle meathod (5x3min at 180F using a hair dryer each time to pre heat block ) But I had probs with firing it up a couple of times with glow plug issues and motor probably done a few too many revs on the bump box not firing. When I removed the plug at this stage the fuel had aluminium dust in it. I was suspect at the time as to how much damage I was doing on the bump box not firing. I followed this with the usual rich tanks at low revs on the ground for two tanks, then bit faster for two tanks and so on until it started to loosen up. But I did these tanks for around the 3 to 4 mins as well.

In saying this I think the evidence is obvious. To start that prewarmed but cold motor so many times with the glow plug issues I had caused the most damage early on. All too rushed....................

I'll be budgeting in a new piston and sleeve and rod. I'll be running it in with 4 full tanks on the bench 2 slighlty leaner than the first. Then takin my time on the ground and usin about 2 litres at low revs then medium revs.

I have also been advised to add a shim from new and lower the compression to suit Australian conditions. And I reakon I might use my used rod to run in the new piston and sleeve and then change to the new rod. I just hope the run in doesn't stuff the new ceremic front bearing.

Leasons hard learnt.

In saying that

i order my bearings direct from tko they take around 7 days to get here ....
i love the tko bearings i have them all through my cars aswell :) they are cheap i thought not nearly expansive as i first thought

I had the opposite experience. The dyn 053 with a long header gave the GRP a lot more power and made it more responsive. The GRP 2053 pipe seemed choked down and less responsive, and I even added the mugen FLS long header to give the bottom end a little more punch. (the long header worked BTW)

I have GRP .28 that for the life of me I can't get the bottom to tune.

I think it is the front bearing is the problem. It leaks when you do the blow test between the inner race and the crank.

I read they all leak with the blow test, but I never experinced it with my other motors just the GRP .28's one GRP Tuned and 1 Ninja .28 grp.

I was told by a modder that he thinks the cranks are just a fuzz small??? Anyone else have this experience?

PS I just put in a new bearing and it still leaks...Have not fired it up yet though..Kind of ticked about it at the moment...

I'm having my Ninja scream with the grp-053, haven't found any good reason to change in to a different 053 model, or a 086 for thats sake.

- I truely believe many people are fooled by louder is faster.

Would you explain the blow test a bit more. Not sure I've heard of this.

With fuel tubing on the carb and motor out with pipe and air filter off, block both and blow on the fuel tube.. best way I know of to check for leaks anywhere on motor / carb.

What plug you guys running..the GRP #5 was a lil steep so i've been just running p3's i had left over from my vpec. Will the motor run coooler if i run a cooler plug??

Like I said, it may be something just wrong with THAT pipe, not sure. I
will stick with the GRP matching pipe for now though. I hate spending
all race day messing with engine tune stuff. Would rather work on the
car setup and my driving skill. Lord knows I need it. :nod:

:lol:

i have had one pipe which never worked never idled and never supplies pressure to the tank i sent it back and they gave me a new one saying the something was wrong inside the pipe baffles ect once the new pipe was on no worries at all i had this problem about 3 months ago

your rite gms racing i have the 5 pack of grp plugs and i thought i was buying a block of gold :lol: but till this day i have not used one plug yet thay are good plugs :nod:

OD 97T got a bunch from amain for $4.99 ea, finally removed the break-in plug-only got 3 gallons out of it. Plug was still good just thought before my first rc pro main-what the hell put in a new plug, its got 2+ gallons on it
Not sure if it will run cooler, but I'm sure you will get better mileage from a cooler plug-might need to be a little more precise on the tune
Ran a grp with 9+ gallons this weekend-had I pinched at THE SPEED SHOP (see rc tech thread) and did great-gonna use it as a friday practice motor

the plugs are pricey but i think they are very reliable , i still havent changed the plug and i have now put 4 gallons threw it :)

ok guys way to much to read through. I just picked up a GRP .21 tuned and will be installing it in a Losi 8ight buggy. I was wndering what plug to use, I can get o/s o/d or dynamite turbo plugs locally. Also i have a jp3 or jp1 i can install.

So what do you think woud be the best setup?

Thanks for the help!

I would say an OS plug because of the taper it fits the GRP head button better either med or I like the super hot P3 plug, I have also run the P4 in a GRP. My experience is that the OD plugs do not work as well in the GRP. For the pipe I would use the JP3 but thats my opinion.

im replacing my bearings in my grp this weekend what method do you guys use bake in oven at 350 degrees for 15 mins drop the old out and then put the new in ?

GRP engine tool kit. Makes chqning the bearings very easy. With the tool of takes maybe 5 mins 10 if you really take your time. Oven works too it's just like a hot potato when it comes out.

thanks for the info frank!

:lol: very true frank but finging the engine bearing puller kits here is hard work and every time i do an order thay are out ..... i assume they are quiet a popular and handy tool to have :nod:

throwing hot potatos can be fun :lol:

It is barely touching it and doesn't even push the boot in any

Tuned .21 spare parts
 

Suggestions on places with cheap spare parts?? Esp. o-rings and bearings.

get your bearings direct from TKO ceramic well worth it :) i had the in my grp today

Boy, is this bad boy really starting to come to life now. Wow......Lack of bottom end, they say?? No way. Not in a buggy. Straightaway?? Will it
ever stop pulling?? My GAWD!! Temps in the 180's and smoking good.
Still a bit fat on the bottom so I haven't cracked the 10 min. a tank mark
and that was driving like grandma yesterday but it'll get there. Actually, I
ran a 10 minute C main yesterday and ran out 3' from the loop on the last
lap. Bud of mine was marshalling right there so he gave 'er the boot to get
'er across. :lol: All and all, really happy with my tuned .21 so far. Just bought
another for back up too. :)

my grp engine took about 2.5 gallons to come to life and after that it was a weapon :nod: i now have it in my truggy

I'll get to run mine again this coming weekend at a big race. I'm so excited. Had to put a new piston and sleeve in cause of a broken piston skirt. It's all ready to go and making power and running more consistently after replacing the P/S. Weird but it's good for now.

how much fuel went through befor you piston broke ?
i have just put cermamics in my grp checked the piston was all good