!!!!!:weird::weird::weird:

I was wondering if/what Novarossi rod was interchangable with the RB T10 RC?

Thanks in advance

Nitro percent
 

Hi all,

I just bought a RB R3 engine. It says in the manual that for every 5% of nitro in the fuel above 16%, you have to shim the head 0.1 mm.

If I have a 18% nitro fuel, do I still have to shim the engine?

I think you will be fine with the stock shimming.

Are you sure about that? I am not sure how to read that statement in the manual;

-Do you have to shim when you're 5% over 16%, meaning you don't have to shim if you're using less than 21%?
-Or do you have to shim once the nitro exceeds 16%?

Well I am going off of experience. Last year I ran 18% at a few races and never added any shims and the motor ran fine. This year I added .2 shims to the same motor and ran 25%. Again the motor ran fine.

For 20% I would add a .1 shim.

If you want that added safety then add the .1 shim and see how it runs for you.

Ok, thanks man, I think I'll use one .1mm shim.

This might sound a stupid question, but just to make sure:

I am supposed to place the shims between the cooling head and the glow plug, right?

No they sit between the head button and the liner

Where is that exactly on the 733? Somewhere in the clutch assembly?

You have to take the cooling head off of the engine, then pop off the button that the glow plug screws in to. There should be already a silver shim in there so add the new shim to that.

Ok, thanks alot for your help:D Now I'm ready to take on the track!

How is the power on the rb classico 10 .21? Will it do the job? :blush:

I realize this is not the "4 sale" thread but I have a rare RB Rody V15 #059 of 300 ever made for sale.

It is New in box and these are considered 1 of the badest small blocks ever made. It's on Ebay and the 4sale thread on rctech.:)

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...w/IMG_0102.jpg

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...w/IMG_0117.jpg

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...w/IMG_0112.jpg

Anyone drive the rb .21 classico 10 yet?

me:)..i love it:nod:
easiest engine i have ever had to break-in,runs fasst and strong.
i highly recommend this engine.

Can someone tell me what the difference is between the Junior 9 and the Junior 10 is? Thanks

Keith

Hey guys i have a speedline matrix rw,in need of a rear bearing,any one kno the dimensions,thanks in advance.:cry:

The cooling head design is different, the engine internals are the same. ;)

12mm x 21mm x 5mm

how good does the junior .12 onroad motor run? does it get good run time?

hey guys just need some help choosing an rb motor for my inferno gt on-rd
this will be my 1st rb motor and will use for club racing

i had my eye on K10. anyone recommend it or have something else recommend.

thanks

thanks:nod:

I bought one of each, disasembled them and measured them already.... they are the same....cooling heads looked the same other than the stamp on top from what I could tell unless you found something else? Only actual difference I found was the engine case is powdercoated (obviously) and the backplate looks like a different casting/machine work. They are good little engines though....excellent quality for the price. ;)

Which pipe are you guys using the for the T10RC? I'm thinking of picking one up for the GLC this year.

in what temp range do you run RB T10RC engine?
iam now running about 110 degrees celcius. and make about
5:30 min runtime, medium size track.

happy for all info that i can get.

230 to 260 F

Killer 9
 

I need some help. I have a Killer 9 with about 1.5 gallons through it and I can not get this thing tuned. Constantly sounds like it is too rich on the bottem (high idle that drops) then it seems to keep flooding out. I have to pinch the fuel line to get it started again.

I have tried to lean on the bottom then it will get to the point where the idle sounds ok but then it starts on bog on accelleration (sounds like a lean bog) at this point the needle is only about 1 turn out. I tried going back to the original setting twice and it won't even start because it is so rich on the bottom.

I have gone to a hotter plug and I am running byron's 25. I am totally lost at this point, looking at changing the carb but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas.

if it cuts out on acceleration it is your HSN, not the LSN thats too lean.... these engines like a small idle gap, a lean LSN and a richer HSN

hows everyone breaking in there new mills these days?

hows the stock 2604 pipe with the rb tj10?

any other good pipe you guys recommend?

heard the novarossi 2630 is pretty good.

The 2604 or the Capricorn 2662 work best.
I like the 2604 the best, the 2662 gives it a higher top speed but less bottom/mid power.

The 2630 is a useless pipe if you ask me, uses a lot of fuel and creates a lot of heat with less power as most other pipes.
If you want a nova pipe get the 2660 instead.

ill stick with the stock 2604 pipe then.

Can anyone tell me if the piston & sleeve, rod for a T9/10 will work in a R3?

for 25% nitro on a RB TJ10, you guys recommend adding a .1 or .2 shim?

i need to buy some shims - will these fit http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n/RB-Head-Shim

Add .2 to run 25% also if I am not mistaken those silver shims are .3. FYI picco shims will work also.

looking at the packet of the picture, it says they are 0.3 thanks for that.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-020mm-0008-28

this one? :S

or this - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_.../RB-Head-Shims

it says for .21 but also fits junior 9 etc

They made a junior 9 .21 buggy engine also so those won't work.

These are what you want:
http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...6&cat=9&page=1

only problem is.. postage is $93.. lol

but found them elsewhere

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...10jfpk428o2625

or should i get the .15

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...ducts_id=14708

Well you need a total of .5 shims so what ever way you can come up with that number is not important. I always use 2-.1 shims and the stock shim when running 25% and the motors seem to like that.

2x 0.1 shim will be good

:D ordered.

On the RB K9/K10 run a total of 3 x 0.22 mm shims for 30%....They are the included shims with the engine...some of these engines came with 4 shims, some came with 3 shims.....however for 30% fuel 3 shims is about right, 4 shims is too many and lowers the compression too much IMO ..