![]() |
Originally Posted by teamgp
(Post 4298973)
Just got home from the track after breaking in my first RB R3 (stock out the box). Half a gallon later, still running a little rich and WOW... :eek: :nod:
Definitely the fastest all around motor I've ever run. Low end like a picco and still pulling effortlessly at the end of a 240' straight. :D |
Originally Posted by RCRjuanabbe
(Post 4299001)
where do guys get your RB products?
Originally Posted by CIMRI
(Post 4299779)
which pipe combo do you use with R3. normally the break-in time is long for the NR base engine... have such a problem
|
A good source for RB engines online is Winners Circle http://www.gasrccar.com
The online shop owner is Lee Muse and he also runs RB in his 1/8th on-road car. He is very helpful on the phone or by email and ships very promptly. Take a look, I know you will be pleased. Roger |
Originally Posted by CIMRI
(Post 4299779)
which pipe combo do you use with R3. normally the break-in time is long for the NR base engine... have such a problem
|
R3 temperature Range
Just broke in my RB R3 yesterday, motor was 2.75 turns in LSN, 5.5 turns in HSN, RB 6 Plug, 40mm shims in head, 40% nitro fuel, Doing lots of smoke coming out of the turns, but running really hot 148 C (298 F) and running rich, still needed to close HSN, to perform
This is my first RB My Question is, Do these engines Run Hotter than 300F? like Nova P12, any Needle setting you may recommend? Tanks |
Originally Posted by djgoku
(Post 4311279)
Just broke in my RB R3 yesterday, motor was 2.75 turns in LSN, 5.5 turns in HSN, RB 6 Plug, 40mm shims in head, 40% nitro fuel, Doing lots of smoke coming out of the turns, but running really hot 148 C (298 F) and running rich, still needed to close HSN, to perform
This is my first RB My Question is, Do these engines Run Hotter than 300F? like Nova P12, any Needle setting you may recommend? Tanks 16% = stock (.3mm; one silver shim) 20% = .4mm 25% = .5mm 40% nitro is WAY too much content. :eek: Your motor was probably detonating with that high of content and so low of shimming. If so, the head button should be ashen looking and pitted. How many tanks did you run it like this? During my own motors *rich* break-in, the temp was around 200F while it four-stroked around the track. I had the following settings at that time (10 tanks): HSN: 5.5 turns out LSN: 2.5 turns out These motors don't run that hot at all. After leaning it out for another 10 tanks, the temp was around 260F-265F. It just finally broke in yesterday, after a little more than a full gallon of fuel, and the temp went down to 220F, still slightly rich, but running pretty strong. :nod: |
Originally Posted by teamgp
(Post 4311548)
The nitro % and head shimming are not good at all. I would recommend using 16%, 20%, or at most 25%. The head shimming should be:
16% = stock (.3mm; one silver shim) 20% = .4mm 25% = .5mm 40% nitro is WAY too much content. :eek: Your motor was probably detonating with that high of content and so low of shimming. If so, the head button should be ashen looking and pitted. How many tanks did you run it like this? During my own motors *rich* break-in, the temp was around 200F while it four-stroked around the track. I had the following settings at that time (10 tanks): HSN: 5.5 turns out LSN: 2.5 turns out These motors don't run that hot at all. After leaning it out for another 10 tanks, the temp was around 260F-265F. It just finally broke in yesterday, after a little more than a full gallon of fuel, and the temp went down to 220F, still slightly rich, but running pretty strong. :nod: I´m running 40mm with 40% nitro because I live in Mexico City, 2250m or 7400 feet above sea level, so have to compensate lack of Oxygen. Most of the guys I run with have 30mm head with 40% Nitro Plug 7 Mi first Break in was heat gun and start for 125 ml rich idle 6 turns HSN left cool down and re heat with gun and another 125ml 5.5 turns HSN and let cool down checked head and very light amber color again heated with gun and ran on track for 450ml lots of smoke never let car shift to 2nd gear, then let cool After that started with 2.5 HSN and 6 HSN and leaned 1/8 to test performance on track till 5.5 HSN, lots of smoke and very high temp we tested for 125 ml, After seen In your method 4000ml 1 gallon my guess is I need more break in time . |
My R3 is a Murnan Modified version. Uriah himself told me that he was also running this motor at the time & 310 to 320 deg was normal & that I should just keep checking the plug & not worry about the temp. My last race it was running around 290 & was just beastly.
|
Originally Posted by GBagRacing
(Post 4313157)
My R3 is a Murnan Modified version. Uriah himself told me that he was also running this motor at the time & 310 to 320 deg was normal & that I should just keep checking the plug & not worry about the temp. My last race it was running around 290 & was just beastly.
|
Jamie thanx for your help with the engines I needed last month. Antonino was easy to work with. It's sad to hear about the dicontinued units. Thanx Again Fab in CT:tire:
|
Originally Posted by CIMRI
(Post 4314496)
Acctually it is to hot. If you run long finals in this deg. You will loose after 15 min. your power! I had the same problems with my mm 353. I have to run the engine about 270 F. But after 15 min the engine loose power and I have to richen the engine. but under 270F is the engine not fast enough. The most importend is, How long did you drove the engine 310-320F ?
|
Hey dremmelboy,
I've noticed that the Circut C-6 is no longer listed as an option on the RB web site. Only two off-road motors and the Rody C-6. Has the standard C-6 been discontinued? If so what new option is RB offering that is not a tune motor for the .21 on-road car? Thanks in advance for your response, Roger |
anyone got the stock settings for HSN and LSN of a RB V12 5P? :blush:
|
HSN 3.5 LSN 5 for the 01700-000510.
|
Hey guys.
I have an older RB X12 engine that I'm pretty sure needs a new p/s/r set. I'm pretty sure I read the same set from the V12 will fit, but I wasn't sure. Also, what would be the comparable novarossi set for that block? I haven't had much luck finding the RB set so far. |
Originally Posted by spenzalii
(Post 4333108)
Hey guys.
I have an older RB X12 engine that I'm pretty sure needs a new p/s/r set. I'm pretty sure I read the same set from the V12 will fit, but I wasn't sure. Also, what would be the comparable novarossi set for that block? I haven't had much luck finding the RB set so far. We have both the Rody version and stock version in stock. Have CWhit or your local dealer call us. |
Jamie,
I was JUST checking Chris' message on this. Since it's for my brother (and he's not paying anything) I'm leaning toward the stock set. Then again, the price of either will decide what I'll get and do with the motor in the end. |
Originally Posted by GBagRacing
(Post 4332872)
HSN 3.5 LSN 5 for the 01700-000510.
the engine will simply stall/die upon the slightest impact. tried increasing the idle screw but still same... can low/no compression cause this? :weird: thanks... :p |
All right well I have been searching for a bit now for more power and have cycled thru many companys engines. RB comes highly recommended so I have picked up a R3 .12 for my NT1. Now I live in Denver, Co. so the air is pretty thin up here. My question is what pipe/manifold combo is best? I heard the 2604 works very well. Also I run 30% Werks fuel what shimming should I be at for altitude and optimal preformance and power. Lastly in what temp range to these engines run in? I want to make sure I get the most out of my engine since the competition is pretty fierce up here. Thanks in advance and look forward to finally fullfilling my need for power.
|
Thanks Jamie for all the tips, help and support at the 2008 US Open Sedan Champs! Power was never a problem with the R3. :nod:
Still feeling bad for u know what though. :( |
Originally Posted by NitroWD
(Post 4334544)
ok thanks... now i'm having issues of the engine not able to hold idle... :cry:
the engine will simply stall/die upon the slightest impact. tried increasing the idle screw but still same... can low/no compression cause this? :weird: thanks... :p try look at your throttle link. Brake for 2 sec to see if the engine will stall. |
Originally Posted by teamgp
(Post 4355452)
Thanks Jamie for all the tips, help and support at the 2008 US Open Sedan Champs! Power was never a problem with the R3. :nod:
Still feeling bad for u know what though. :( This is what I am here for, support! I am an open book, and whatever knowledge I have I am more than glad to pass off. It was fun pitting with you and Vincent and the rest of the 301 boys. See you guys this weekend. Don't sweat the other thing, even though I am :cry: inside. LOL Just kidding racing is racing and occasionally things like that happen. We both handled it in style. After all you are my Teammate and I was glad to see you advance regardless of the circumstances. |
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
(Post 4360397)
Guy,
This is what I am here for, support! I am an open book, and whatever knowledge I have I am more than glad to pass off. It was fun pitting with you and Vincent and the rest of the 301 boys. See you guys this weekend. Don't sweat the other thing, even though I am :cry: inside. LOL Just kidding racing is racing and occasionally things like that happen. We both handled it in style. After all you are my Teammate and I was glad to see you advance regardless of the circumstances. |
Originally Posted by teamgp
(Post 4360486)
Now its time to git-r-done at 301!!! :D
|
Originally Posted by THeGame
(Post 4360498)
Guy did you show Jamie some guylove ? Are you ready for this weekend ? :sneaky:
|
Originally Posted by teamgp
(Post 4360707)
Ready freddy... :nod:
|
This is my Xenon R in a NTC3 car and I must say that the engine is top notch and VERY fast. No wonder I can't get a race at out local hangouts;).
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=arpSXX0dWqc http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=FW03UZ41GtU A question for RB techs though. I have a friend that has a Xenon R and his conrod broke because the rear bearing let go. Fortunately it was only at idle when it stopped running. We took it apart and the block is fine as well as the sleeve, piston and crankshaft. It just needs a rear bearing and a conrod. I think that a ceramic bearing is the absolute way to go as with his motor going out like that has made me pull mine out and send it to Rick Brake of RBmods.net to port it more and install ceramic bearings. I also plan to purchase a new Alpha Xenon to compare it to my Kangaroo .21 as well. Thanks for a great engine. |
hi guys, my fren just got an RB V12 3 port paired with the RB 2611 pipe. during break in ( followed the manual) all went well. after the 9 tank we started to lean it to get it to race tune. but there seems to be something wrong. the idle is not stable and the engine will over heat. after richin it back it will bogg. when leaning it back (in 1/8 turn the main needle) it still act the same. we r totally out of ideas. we try to look for leakage but there were none except some fuel near the carb.but we think that should be normal:rolleyes::rolleyes:
|
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
(Post 4360397)
Guy,
This is what I am here for, support! I am an open book, and whatever knowledge I have I am more than glad to pass off. It was fun pitting with you and Vincent and the rest of the 301 boys. See you guys this weekend. Don't sweat the other thing, even though I am :cry: inside. LOL Just kidding racing is racing and occasionally things like that happen. We both handled it in style. After all you are my Teammate and I was glad to see you advance regardless of the circumstances. |
Originally Posted by Brent Davis
(Post 4361836)
This is my Xenon R in a NTC3 car and I must say that the engine is top notch and VERY fast. No wonder I can't get a race at out local hangouts;).
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=arpSXX0dWqc http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=FW03UZ41GtU A question for RB techs though. I have a friend that has a Xenon R and his conrod broke because the rear bearing let go. Fortunately it was only at idle when it stopped running. We took it apart and the block is fine as well as the sleeve, piston and crankshaft. It just needs a rear bearing and a conrod. I think that a ceramic bearing is the absolute way to go as with his motor going out like that has made me pull mine out and send it to Rick Brake of RBmods.net to port it more and install ceramic bearings. I also plan to purchase a new Alpha Xenon to compare it to my Kangaroo .21 as well. Thanks for a great engine. |
RB engines powered the top two drivers at the first race of our season at 301 Raceway!!!
Congrats to Jamie Corrado on his TQ and thanks for all the track-side support. The word is getting out on these powerplants. :nod: |
Originally Posted by teamgp
(Post 4395639)
RB engines powered the top two drivers at the first race of our season at 301 Raceway!!!
Congrats to Jamie Corrado on his TQ and thanks for all the track-side support. The word is getting out on these powerplants. :nod: |
R3
Those R3's are insane!! 64MPH is insane!! 301 raceway is insane!!:lol::lol::lol::lol:
|
Originally Posted by Racer Z
(Post 4396051)
Those R3's are insane!! 64MPH is insane!! 301 raceway is insane!!:lol::lol::lol::lol:
|
Hey J , can I have 1 of what ever you guys are running?:sneaky:
|
Has anyone raced the new Alpha yet??
|
Originally Posted by Dreddlox
(Post 4396276)
Hey J , can I have 1 of what ever you guys are running?:sneaky:
We can get you some heat. LMK, when you are ready.:cool:
Originally Posted by ma racer
(Post 4398581)
Has anyone raced the new Alpha yet??
We have been running the Alphas for a few weeks now. It has been a bit of a learning curve with the new carb. but things have been going very well. The engines are super fast and run-time hasn't been a problem. We haven't had any issues. We have tested pipes, shims, ect. and thumbs up!:tire: |
Thanks Jamie,
I'm going to pick one up for my local scene and then another for the GLC. Any suggestions for the engine? pipes, plugs, headers etc. Here in Houston we race on a relatively short track with mucho 180 degree turns, but as I begin to travel ie-GLC etc. the motor will want to stretch it's legs a bit more. Again, thanks Jamie |
Originally Posted by ma racer
(Post 4399649)
Thanks Jamie,
I'm going to pick one up for my local scene and then another for the GLC. Any suggestions for the engine? pipes, plugs, headers etc. Here in Houston we race on a relatively short track with mucho 180 degree turns, but as I begin to travel ie-GLC etc. the motor will want to stretch it's legs a bit more. Again, thanks Jamie I know that I am not Jaime, but try to gear around 7.5 on 1st gear and 5.1 on 2nd gear. That is if you have good traction. If not good traction go to around 7.0 to 7.2 on first. DJ Apolaro |
Originally Posted by dj apolaro
(Post 4399815)
I know that I am not Jaime, but try to gear around 7.5 on 1st gear and 5.1 on 2nd gear. That is if you have good traction. If not good traction go to around 7.0 to 7.2 on first.
DJ Apolaro |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:24 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.