Ma Racer,
Give me a bit more info:
-elevation
-brand of fuel being used
-clutch shoe/spring
-high/low bite track
ect.



Thanks

Let's see here:
Houston, elevation = from 120 to 345 ft. above sea level
Brand of fuel = Rocket Science 30% or Tornado 25%
I do typically use the Rocket Science though.
Just experimenting with the Tornado
Clutch shoe goes from Mugen grey to red to yellow
depending on traction
Normal traction at the local track is low to medium. Only
when we have a larger than club race do we see
the good stuff.
Thanks for the input!!!!

I gotta question for the RB gods.
What is the difference between the 928 and the RT?

Zenon R
 

I thought i'd post my impression of the zenon r on here. I broke it in with a new break in process posted on th rb forum. I changed the carb to one i had from a 35 plus21 i blew up and this engine is by far the fastest i've ever ran. I was running a 2018 pipe with a # 6 plug. 30% fuel with an extra .1 mm shim. I love rb engines!

problem updates
 

hi, just too share.;)

the above problem has been rectified. we put some gasket sealer between the carby neck and the crankase , and everything is just fine...idle well, no overheating and last a full day's race. thanks

hello ghettoteacher

sorry for the long delay in answering your question.

the tm928 engine has been discontinued and has been repalced by the RT.

The RT has a beefed up crankcase compared to the tm928 and has a standard plug head button supplied with the engine now.

The tm928 was and still is a great engine, but has soooooooo much power that lots of people have complained that it tears up their cars drivetrain and that the turbo plug made it sensitive to tune when it gets warm outside.

The RT has been refined to come with the standard plug button, the new L2G style head and the beefed up block. The engine is the best balance of power and reliability for the guys that want tons of power in their monster trucks.

We dont recommend the tm928 or the RT engine for buggies or truggies, its just too hard on the kits and doesnt get as good a run time compared to a C6 L2G

hope that helps

kevin @ RB USA

Jamie/Other experience RB engine owners - I'm getting an 8th buggy soon and am in debate between two RB engines and also a Novarossi. Is there is significant different between the RB S7 L2G vs the RB S5 L2s? Is it just that one is a 5 port and the other is 7 port? If so then the S7 isn't worth the extra $40 spending no? For the price of the S7 at my LHS they also have a Nova RX21 P5 and was wondering of the overall performance for the two primarily which is more consistent. Surely both are powerful, I know that.

RB Guys,

Good info on the TM928. I've got a TM728 in my Savage that may need a new p/s/r set. Was this engine discontinued as well? If so, what would you recommend in it's place to haul that heavy beast along?

How it comes, INSBOX filter do not fits on R3? Is it common thing or am i missing something?

Tried to put on standart mugen onroad foam filter without insbox and it dosnt fit as well.

Are there any special RB filters, that should be used? By EFRA rules insbox is a must, so i would like to know how to fit that thing on.

We still have parts for the 728/928. CWhit Hobbies could get for you.

WoW! INS box on .12, not normal in USA. If rules specify you must run, I would try the small INS box. You may have to research as we only make standard size.

Jamie what's up, do you stock the RB rear bearing extractor for a 21 and if so where to get it.
Thanks Randy

Ryan,
What up dude? Hope all is well.
You ready for your Regional race this weekend? I'm sure you will do well.:tire:

We have an extractor for every engine bearing size out there and also an all in one unit. Give Kevin a call, he can order it for you.

Im from europe, and bought engine here in europe. By efra, we have to use INSBOX. Does it means that R3 is designed for US market onlu and not for the europe?
Filter issue is something i wasnt ready for, when paying 400$+ for it.

Situation seems to be odd. Product itself looks a good quality, but the fact that normal standart INSBOX filter doesnt fit is something im not happy with.

As RBproducts company is located in Europe (France), no one really have noticed that its problematic to use it within EFRA rules???

jamie ygpm

use the mugen ins box it is offset

As Mike Shing said, use the mugen INS box: Part # B0010. This fits perfectly in any .12 motor and it isn't as large as the 1/8th on-road INS boxes.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...n161/b0010.jpg

Finally got the first race day behind my R3, it was so much easier to tun it compared to the engines i have had before.
Track was really tight so very low gearings have to be used. To get a decent power out of engine, i had to run it at ~110C (230F) during the qualification rounds and with the same settings, after 30min final temp was 130C (265F). In total, not more than 2 liters (1/2 gallon) of fuel have been used with this engine.
Could it really take so long to break in these engines? And can it be expected to see lower temp ranges after few more liters of fuel will go trough the engine?

I know this thread is primarily about onroad RBs, but I broke in my RB S7 for my 8th buggy today and I feel so happy to have purchased this engine. RB has always been great in quality, performance, and tuning. Despite the slightly higher price for parts you get what you pay for. I payed for quality and have no regrets. :smile::nod:

Thanks Jamie for all the support this past weekend at the 2008 Capital Classic!!!

Once I fixed the problem I created on the R3 (stripped head button), the motor worked flawlessly. Several of the top drivers from the different manufacturers commented very favorably on the power that my car had. :nod:

To top it off, the motor didn't run higher than 270F on Saturday and Sunday where the air temps were around 95F and most motors were operating at 300F+. It made at least 5:10 runtime all weekend with 25% nitro content Maxy's Fuel and 0.5mm head shimming, including the fourth qualifier where I ran 55mm/57mm tires. The new head button had a nice brown burn color to it at the end of Sunday with absolutely no pitting. ;)

For those that don't know about the R3, I have to quote the Washington Post...

If you don't get, you don't get it. :tire:

all i got to say is thanks J for the hook up....

hey i have a question for you guys. which motor would be the best for my tmaxx 1.5

empir3,
I would suggest our TM523 combo package. It is a direct drop in and also includes the manifold, pipe and engine mount.
Part # E01901_523000_T

Listen to Jamie. That TM523 is one of the best deals in RC. Not only do you get a bad ass Nova based motor but you get the exhaust and engine mounts with it. You can't beat it. A buddy of mine has one in his T-Maxx and it hauls, it's reliable and easy to tune.

Ahum, it is Sirio based......

ok ill look into it. my local hobby guy suggest the traxxas 3.3 to replace the 1.5 but im not to sure i want to go back to another stock engine. i kinda wanted something aftermarket.


thanks for the help.

-erik

Hey i have but one more question. When im going to be needing a new motor i will be in Kodiak, Alaska. I think it would be a bit more spendy to go through the hobby shop there. What online sight would you prefer most if you wanted that rb concept tm523 to buy? or basically what online store do you like the best.

Are you sure? I know the TM323 was Nova.

You are right Roleof, both are Sirio based. Still killer motors. Now I am confused though since the one in my buddies truck is Nova based and it is a TM something 23.

The TM728 and TM928 are nova based.

so can anyone answer my last question i had about 3 or 4 posts ago?

thanks

rb 3 port crankshaft?
 

i'm looking for a crankshaft for my rb 3 port(econo 01003-e) i dont think they make this motor anymore but instead they came out with a newer version the s3. does anyone know if the crankshafts are compatible/interchangable?

RB CJ004 onroad
 

hi there
i have seen on a japanese website the limited release of a RB 21 onroad engine called the CJ004
can anyone shed any light on this subject.

i have seen no news on the official RB website

many thanks

Hello all:
These new engines are based of older models and are aimed at economy.
Good engine for a decent price.

RB Products USA

Jamie, you have a PM.

Need some understanding...
 

I've read the post here and noticed some of you guys mention running temps of 270+ degrees :flaming:

On the R&B products forum the guys there suggested not letting it run over 250.

So my question is what is the running temp range that is good for the motor? I can't seem to get an answer for this question no matter where I ask it. All are different. I wish it was right in the manual that came with my Matrix RW...Recommended running temp..blah-blah...give me something please.

You can't get an exact answer because there is no exact answer. Tune by sight and sound, not temp. I've had motors run perfectly at 195 all day long. The next day the same motor, same track, same performance, etc. ran 270.

To me, as long as it's running right and doesn't go over 290, I'm happy. I am NOT saying 290 is the right temp. It may run best at 220. It all depends on the day, the motor, the pipe, the fuel, the track and every other variable you can think of.

Well, you can't just have a one formula fits all RB motors. It really depends on the engine model, piston/sleeve condition, ceramic bearings or no, climactic conditions, etc.

The main thing I've learned from the best tuners is to get the right amount of smoke coming from the exhaust and to check the head button after each run. The optimum engine temp really can vary too much to set a *target* temp on the gun. ;)

Keep checking your pipe seals as well to make sure there are no leaks, as this can often get you chasing a tune. :nod: