Originally Posted by Speedy Gun (Post 7727466)

Can anyone tell me if the piston & sleeve, rod for a T9/10 will work in a R3?

Originally Posted by DS Motorsport (Post 7731848)

Yes, they are a direct fit.
The crankcase hasn't changed.
Only big change has been the T10RC crankshaft which is now balanced.

Originally Posted by musti72 (Post 7736004)

So Novarossi Plus 12-3SCT Piston sleeve fits on a R3? And where can I find a T9/10 piston sleeve set online? I will need a new P/S for my R3...

Originally Posted by musti72 (Post 7736004)

So Novarossi Plus 12-3SCT Piston sleeve fits on a R3? And where can I find a T9/10 piston sleeve set online? I will need a new P/S for my R3...

Originally Posted by Grinder (Post 7739781)

Yes. The +12-3sct piston/sleeve/rod are a direct fit for the rbr3, rbm3, t10, t10rc. ;)

Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid (Post 7680512)

Which pipe are you guys using the for the T10RC? I'm thinking of picking one up for the GLC this year.

Originally Posted by Mr.Tachyons (Post 7787149)

Hi
Can I us a Novarossi 7601 conrod in a RB T9rc.

Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid (Post 7787168)

no one has an answer?

Originally Posted by DS Motorsport (Post 7787349)

Yes, no problem.
For bearings I would advice you to stick with the RB ones, RB uses 9 balls for the rear bearing and they are far better as the 11 ball version which nova makes.



Basically the Rb 2604 '2009', Nova 2660 or the 2662 from Capricorn.

The 2604 I would describe as an allround pipe, it gives a good amount of mid end power and makes for a nice linear engine. Also easy to tune and easy on the fuel milage.
The 2660 gives the engine more top end power, and uses a bit more fuel.
The 2662 gives the engine heaps of mid and top end power but uses quite a lot of fuel and made it a bit harder to tune, but the most overall power.

Originally Posted by etgdpu (Post 7789079)

what about the RB 2659, which is the recommended one from RB?

Originally Posted by YBSLOW (Post 7933672)

Good power, tuff on miledge.

Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid (Post 7933762)

I've had a different experience. Good power like you said but also getting great mileage.

Originally Posted by YBSLOW (Post 7933925)

interesting?

I got about 30 seconds less than I did with the 2604?

Originally Posted by BigC2007 (Post 7935021)

I know this may be a long shot, but anyone have or know where I can get a piston/sleeve and con rod for the Rody C5 On-Road ?

Originally Posted by YBSLOW (Post 7935087)

Originally Posted by BigC2007 (Post 7939476)

Thanks Bro, but that was the first place I went too. :(

Originally Posted by YBSLOW (Post 7943467)

Probably not listed on the website anymore? Not sure, but I bet if you call them they might be able to order one for you or may even have one in stock. I know they have a lot of inventory.

Maybe Ashford? They use to carry alot of RB stuff.

Originally Posted by BigC2007 (Post 7943554)

I will make that call, I know I can still find a Con Rod but even if I could just find a piston will be great, I never pinched a sleeve before so do you know if these would be a good thing to try on a motor with 3 gals gone threw it ?

Originally Posted by YBSLOW (Post 7943957)

If you only have three gallons thru it, I would just change the rod and I bet it would be good for another couple of gallons if not more.

The C10's I am running now I break in for 2 gallons , then change the rod and race them for three gallons before they need a P/S.

Originally Posted by DS Motorsport (Post 7787349)

Yes, no problem.
For bearings I would advice you to stick with the RB ones, RB uses 9 balls for the rear bearing and they are far better as the 11 ball version which nova makes.



Basically the Rb 2604 '2009', Nova 2660 or the 2662 from Capricorn.

The 2604 I would describe as an allround pipe, it gives a good amount of mid end power and makes for a nice linear engine. Also easy to tune and easy on the fuel milage.
The 2660 gives the engine more top end power, and uses a bit more fuel.
The 2662 gives the engine heaps of mid and top end power but uses quite a lot of fuel and made it a bit harder to tune, but the most overall power.

Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN (Post 7946015)

so the nova 7601 fits the RB engines?

can i use nova crankshaft in mine? lol.

Originally Posted by BigC2007 (Post 7935021)

I know this may be a long shot, but anyone have or know where I can get a piston/sleeve and con rod for the Rody C5 On-Road ?

Originally Posted by lil-bump (Post 7947624)

Also look for the C6 P/S set. I had a RB c5 case But used the RB C6 P/S set.
You might have better luck finding the C6 set. I got mine from Ashford hobbies.

Originally Posted by BigC2007 (Post 7958834)

Hey Bro's
I just got my hands on a used Rody C5 .21 On-Road, it has about 21/2 gals gone threw it. I have place it in my MRX4-R and ran it till it reached 195 degrees but it seems like it dont want to hold at idle or seems the high rev are cutting out. Do anyone knows where or what should the Carb/Needle settings should be at ?

Thanks

p.s this is my first time every running a RB motor.

Originally Posted by YBSLOW (Post 7968022)

If it is way out of tune restart with top and bottom needles set flush and set the idle then when it sounds good and go from there. I will be at Greater L.A. this weekend and would be more than happy to help you tune it.

Originally Posted by BigC2007 (Post 7968077)

Thanks Bro, I will be there Saturday morning helping set up. ( around 8am)

Clinton

Originally Posted by YBSLOW (Post 7968335)

I will be there Friday afternoon, driving out from Poenix. Just look for a white Escallade with AZ plates that say YBSLOW.

Brad

Originally Posted by rcabj (Post 8031154)

guys..after a full day race, i disassemble my engine. everything looks fine except the top surface of piston head which had quite a few small spots ( feels sandy ). it also appears on the bottom part of turbo button ( the area around the glow plug.) , has anyone experience this too? so what could be the cause of these and what should i do to prevent this from happening again.

and how do i remove this sandy spots stains, ? thanks

Originally Posted by BigC2007 (Post 8031757)

Bro I believe your motor is starting to Detonation happens when your mixture is too lean, This is when the air and fuel mixture ignites prematurely. It happens in different places in the chamber all at once, you can normally hear it when it happens and your can will loose some power, but it’s not a major problem unless you don’t pit. If you continue to drive you will damage your engine.
This causes pitting on the piston, head and glow plug. If you see pitting it means you are running too lean, you need to richen the mixture slightly.

Also Bro I would to be in the PI's !! some beautiful woman out there.

Originally Posted by rcabj (Post 8031154)

guys..after a full day race, i disassemble my engine. everything looks fine except the top surface of piston head which had quite a few small spots ( feels sandy ). it also appears on the bottom part of turbo button ( the area around the glow plug.) , has anyone experience this too? so what could be the cause of these and what should i do to prevent this from happening again.

and how do i remove this sandy spots stains, ? thanks